Phaeton :: 2004 - While Taking Ignition Key Car Dies?
Jan 16, 2016
I own a Vw Phaeton 3.0 TDI 2004. A few days ago , everytime i take the ignition key of the car , the car 'dies' ( headlights , radio , doors , alarm... ) and it stops working for a couple of minutes. When i put the key again , the car starts working and everything works 100% but if i remove the key again , the car dies again. The car runs fine if i ride it a whole day , no problems at all. The following day , the car dies again. What's wrong with it?
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I have a dead car. My phaeton has been playing up as when you turn the key it did not always turnover its now been stood for a while and now the ignition won't come on when the key is turned. both the batteries are full and the key are recognized the only thing to come on is the info display center above the gear lever i have tried a new ignition switch and still nothing, any clues my car is 2004 v10 auto one last thing is there a way to unlock the gear lever as this not working as well...
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Second time that my 2004 Phaeton has experienced an ignition lock up. 1st time while driving the ignition shut off and everything stopped. I was getting the car towed and upon recheck all was well. Now, while driving, the panel flashed "Stop, Ignition Lock".
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We have a 93 Grand marquis. For a while now sometimes when you take the key out of the ignition the alarm still goes off as if the key was still in it, but it's not. A couple of days ago that happened so I jiggled the ignition to get it to turn off the alarm. When we got back in the car I couldn't get the key all the way in the ignition, I had to keep moving the switch back and forth,finally I got it lined up and could start the car. We took it to the mechanic and he said it needs a cylinder and key. I asked if we could still use our key he said no but maybe. I said ok, can you get us a new key if we need it? He said no. I don't really need any of this nonsense so I was wondering, the ignition switch is working ok now, it just needs to be lined up at a certain spot to get the key out. I really can't afford the 200 dollars right now to fix it.
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just wondering what are the problems typically associated with a long start up. it took about 8-10 seconds from the time i put in the key fob to ignition. it was especially cold and windy today, so i know the cold had something to do with it.
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Background: 2004 Phaeton, 38k miles, no major/minor mechanical issues -- until now. Issue is this. The drain lines in the trunk area of the car became clogged one dark and dreary night. Water overflowed -- somehow -- onto the starter circuits.
Whilst driving to the office the "IGNITION LOCK WARNING" indicator came on. When I arrived at the office and shut off the engine, the car became completely immobilized (imagine several hisses and four distinct thunks) and the key became stuck in the ignition.
The ignition circuit was replaced and drains cleaned out with 'nipples' removed to ensure no more blockages. HOWEVER, I have now been told the starter is bad.
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I'm Using Maruti Suzuki Swift Dzire. Till last month my car used to unlock doors automatically while taking the key out. Now the problem is :After turning off the ignition & taking the key off Car doors are not unlocking automatically. If doors are unlocked manually from inside by pressing unlock button situated in the car, doors are unlocking. If I unlock the doors manually and open the doors, I'm unable to lock the car with the remote key after closing the doors.
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I have honda civic 2005 Lx with 170,000 miles. I noticed increased RPM about 1.5 with cold start but no missfire. I attempted to take out ignition coils to see if genuine ones solve the issue. It is very little rainy today with high humidity. After I put new ignition coils, I noticed increased shaking with misfire. I have not touched anything except for putting in/out coils. I ensured the position and connection of the coils. Is this anything with humidity? I did it really quick without much exposure to the rain. How to resolve this issue? at least return to previous condition?
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2006 Avalon cranks, turns over briefly, ignition catches for a second then dies out....
CEL is on and shows the following:
PO102 - mass air flow circuit
PO351 - Ignition coil A
PO352 - Ignition coil b
PO353 - Ignition coil c
PO354 - Ignition coil d
PO355 - Ignition coil e
PO356 - Ignition coil f
I checked the front three coil packs, seem to check out, the back three are a BEAR! don't want to rip into those. I know if one or two were bad, I would get a bad idle....
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I have a 1961 International Scout 80. I picked it up about a month ago and have been working on it ever since. It has been running a little rough but ok. Carb definitely could use at least a cleaning. Recent history is as follows...Brought home a month ago. replaced clutch hydraulics and rebuilt rear brakes 3 weeks ago. Began rewiring 2 weeks ago including removing dash, choke and throttle cables.
Completed rewiring of engine and lights and most of dash. Some wires are still left open. Since replacing the clutch hydraulics I have been starting it up every few days to drive from a parking space, about 100 ft, to the garage. 2 days ago after finishing working for the night I drove and parked it. The next morning it will not run. It starts and then immediately dies. I know there is a number of things it could be I just don't know the best way to go about diagnosing the issue.
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97 Toyota Camry 2.2l motor.
Sometimes, when I turn the ignition on I don't hear a sound and all the power dies in the car (the radio ejects the CD and all the presets are erased when I turn it out of start). This can happen once or twice in a row then generally the car starts up normally.
The battery is brand new (1 month) and is fully charged. My hope is that it's the starter drawing too much power when it tries to start? It's entirely possible it has the factory starter still on the car.
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My Wife has been driving my Phaeton once a week to keep everything working normally. She hand washed the car and somehow during the washing evolution she set the alarm off. Now she's telling me the car will start but then it shuts down and also she can't get the key out of the ignition.
I had the car setup for a tow to the VW dealer so they could figure things out but the tow truck driver couldn't get it started or get the key out either so they couldn't tow it and from what my wife told me, they bought the wrong type of tow truck.
I don't know if this is a battery issue or what because the wife stated she hasn't had any problems cranking the car previously and battery has always shown the proper voltage and was checked by the VW dealership a few months ago and got a good bill of health.
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I have an 04 w12 with 80k miles on it. It will start fine but will not run for more than 10 seconds. As it idles down from startup it settles to about 700 RPM's where it normally does then dies. If u drive it it will start and go into gear fine as u go to pull away it loses all power and dies. I have checked the minor things i know like air filters, oil, tranny juice all appears normal. New batteries less than 3 months ago also.
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Have 2005 Phaeton with about 140,000 miles. Has run fine as long as I've had it at about 100,000. Last week it died in a parking lot after starting. It keep doing that all the way home.
Next day it started and ran a bit longer and then the serpentine belt broke. Replaced the belt and car ran fine for 10 minutes, parted it and the next day it quit after running 2 minutes.
Seems like it dies right after the computer systems cycle up.
I replaced the left side battery and keep the correct charger on it to make sure its fully charged. I start the car and it dies after a few minutes, then I notice the charger is charging the battery.
I checked the J367 battery control unit and its a D rates 2800 so should be the right one. I don't know if they can go bad. But think it could be the problem, not sure if they can be tested. Called my vw dealer and they say they need to whole vehicle.
The meter on the dash show 14 plus so I think the alternator should be fine. I did check to make sure all pulleys were turning smoothly when I changed the belt. Today I checked the Smoothing Capacitor and it tested fine.
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This must be the week for Phaeton issues.
This evening as I was leaving from work, I started the car up and within a minute it died. I thought it must just be the cold, so I started it up again, and again it died. I had driven the car to work this morning, then taken it out at lunch time to run an errand, and everything was fine. I decided to drive the car to see if it just needs a charge, but again, as I was pulling out into the street the car died again. And again across the street in a big parking lot. Eventually I just pulled back into work, called the wife to pick me up and to bring along the vag-com cable and her laptop.
While waiting, I decided to start the car again, and again it died. So I wait, and once my ride arrived, I plugged the vag-com in and did a read. I got some initial intermittent faults, so I cleared them, started the car, waited for it to die, then did another scan to see what happened. Couple of things came up: Intervention load management kicked in (00907) and Supply Voltage Terminal 30 - Lower Limit Exceeded (00668 - 002).
I read another post where apparently it was the fuel filter that needed to be replaced. I did check the measuring blocks on Control 07, and it did say that Terminal 30 was at 0 amps, while Terminal 15 fluctuated but never went higher than 10 amps.
Is it a bad battery? A loose connection on the battery? Or should I do the fuel filter? Both batteries were replaced in late 2007, so it's not that old.
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Got a late 2004 6.0 that runs excellent. When it is cold (as in not running for half a day, not ambient temp) it dies as if the ignition gets turned off. You can start it right back up no problem. It has been slowly getting worse. You maybe have to start it back up 5-10 times before you can get going in the morning. Also you can hear a random click with ignition just in on position as if there is a connection issue in the dash and cuts ign in and out that I think may be the problem.
I swapped all the relays to different spots to try them. I don't think it's wiring because it does it when cold then works when warm. Guy thinks plugging truck block heater so maybe it work better somewhat. New CMP, CKP, FICM, and it doesn't make a diff. So it's baffling to me. It's obviously electrical and works better when truck is warmed.
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I am working on my father's boss' 2004 Phaeton V8. The car usually sits on the weekends. What it is doing is, it will start and run smooth, but after 15 seconds, on the dot, it stalls and dies. It sounds like it is starving for fuel.
What I have done so far:
LH intake actuator arm found broken, replaced both with "Gruvenparts"
Checked all fuses and relays
LH fuel pump reads 14 volts until the relay kicks it off
Tested fuel pressure-good
Batteries fully charged
LH fuel pump reads 0.7 ohms w/key off
RH fuel pump reads 6.0 M-ohms when first connected and gradually climbs to 31.5 M-ohms
(I assumed this meant RH pump was bad and so I pulled it out and bench-tested. Ran perfect and tested at 0.7 ohms out of the car)
Re-assembled everything to pull the car out of the shop, and wouldn't you know it started and ran like normal.
Road-tested for 2 hours the next day without any problems.
So, I call the customer to pick it up and he says he will be there 2 days later.
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I purchased a used Phaeton, but...it has some issues that I've started to sort out beginning with reading this forum most of my waking hours the last two days.
Here are my issues:
1) Transmission - jerks quickly from 1st, barely spends a moment in 2nd, before shifting into third. Jerks hard and lunges through this process all in about 2 or 3 seconds. Smooth as silk from 3 to 6th gear.
2) No-key-in-ignition or blinker chimes (therefore don't know what else I may not be hearing).
3) No owners manual so I haven't figured out how to adjust rear view mirror or seat belt height.
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I dropped mine off this morning for service and noticed a 2005 parked exactly in the middle of the service lot blocking traffic and surrounded by a pool of oil.
Turns out it was delivered by flat bed last night. The flatbed driver was unable to start the car so he flooded the area and I assume his flatbed with oil so he could "slide" the Phaeton off his truck.
Service says they can't start the car or remove the key from the ignition, so there it sits. I told them I'd see if there was any advice here on getting that car back on the road - and outta the lot.
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I went out last night (fire training) and when I returned to my car, I unlocked it with the fob button, got in and put the key in the ignition and no click.... the key will not turn. This is the same key I drove out with. I thought if my kessey is bad, both of my keys are "locked out" My wife came out with my second key fob and the car started with no issues. My main key still won't turn in the ignition. So how do I get my car to like my main key again?
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I got a good deal on a 04 phaeton because of some electrical problems. I am starting the research to get it figured out, and there is a lot of info on the site which is great.
The problem is the key is stuck in the ignition (I got it out via the emergency release) and it can turn left and right and the car will not do anything
I put good batteries in the car since they were dead and there is no change.
My scanner (launch master) will not connect because I'm assuming I can't get the ignition key to switch into the "ON" position.
I love this car, but I don't love electrical problems!
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