Phaeton :: 2008 Dead - Faint Clunk From The Rear Of Car
Nov 11, 2012
I went out to my 08 3.0 TDI Phaeton this morning, pressed the key fob ...nothing..opened the drivers door put the key in the ignition.... nothing, except for a faint clunk from the rear of the car. Called the RAC, luckily got a good tech. His diagnosis:
4v on the big battery on the left of the car
11.4 on the right battery
He jumped started the car (followed the correct procedure)
Car started no issues.
Car had not been used for 1 day drove perfectly well beforehand.
Also he noticed quite a lot of water in the right hand battery area ( I noticed a musty smell when opening the boot) . I'm now worried about which battery is faulty. RAC man said the smaller battery on the right seemed not to be accepting charge.. The cars electrical system is massively complex and electrics and water do not mix...
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As I said when I take off from a dead stop I can feel a clunk or a bump that feels like it is coming from the rear wheels. I can feel it more than I can hear it, although I can hear it a little. It is difficult to describe this. It is only for a second and kinda feels like the rear wheels have no traction then it bumps and takes off. If I ease into the accelerator I can avoid it, but I don't have to hit it real hard at all to get it to do it. I am sure it is not u-joints as I put a brand new drive shaft from driveshaft specialist on in the spring.
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I have some FAINT clicking noise at the rear of the 08 LS460 and I'm thinking it's rear bearing going out..but not sure...what exactly does bearing failure sounds like? I hear this SOFT clicking noise from (more likely) the right rear. The noise is very faint and I have to roll down the window to actually hear it.
If I move through the neighborhood at about 15-20 mph, I hear this clicking faint clicking sounds..and if I speed up a little, the clicking noise increases (in frequency, not loudness). When I go faster like on freeway or normal road, I can't hear it anymore. Probably clicking too fast or not as loud at that speed. With windows up, I can't hear it at all.
Is this has to do with rear bearing going out on me or possibly something else? Any recommendation where I can start looking at? Is it brake pads? The car is 35K miles but since it's 08, unfortunately it's out of basic warranty (time). Is this covered under powertrain?
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I've noticed lately that I have a slight clunk that I can feel through the steering wheel, normally at very low speeds as when first moving. I can sometimes feel it at higher speeds but it tends to fade into the road noise and vibration. Acts as if it is not brakes but either a u-joint in the steering column itself or ball joint or tie rod end. Car is an 07 V6 with roughly 43k miles...
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I've been hearing a slight clunk when accelerating from a stop, a very faint split second clunk between in 1st year.
Last week, I pointed the noise to a technician at my dealer and he diagnosed it as the cam adjuster lurching backward as the car moves forward.
He replaced the cam adjuster and the gasket set (058-109-088-E, 058-198-217, and 058-198-025-A). When I got the car back, it seemed like he had fixed the problem. However a week later, the noise is back.
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The car is a 2004 Suzuki Aerio with 68k miles on it. I've owned the car since 25k miles, and performed all maintenance on time. The car was also maintained well before we owned it (receipts). I've taken it to our garage 5 times now, for the same noise. Here is the timeline of events:
1) Two months ago started making two noises (rattle over bumps and a faint clunk on driver's side when turning). Garage replaced control arm assembly on both sides.
2) Took it back a week later because it was still making clunk (It got worse over this week, and then stayed at this level. I can feel it under the driver's side floor board. Sounds like a clunk/cracking noise) and was making a new rattle. Garage said their air wrench was messing up the first day and a heat shield came loose.
3) Another week later, still making clunk and making yet another weird rattle/grinding noise over bumps. Garage said this time that it's another loose bolt on the control arm assembly. Tightened and double checked everything. They seemed apologetic and embarrassed about the loose bolts.
4) Another two weeks later, still making the clunking noise. I take it back and take our mechanic for a ride. He hears it. I call back later that day and they say they can't find anything wrong with it (checked struts, front suspension, and cv joint). I speak with a different mechanic and he tells me "we don't do any fancy hard turning when we take the cars for test drives. We drive them like most people with old cars drive them." This seems to infer, to me, that it's only making this noise because I drive my car hard. Fyi, I drive reasonably. They say they had my mechanic, the other mechanic, the shop owner (who was on vacation that week), and ANOTHER mechanic from a different garage looking at it, and they can't find what's wrong. Bring it back next week.
5) Yesterday, they say they looked everything over and couldn't find anything wrong. Said they would have to diagnose it by feel. I have to work, but my husband picks it up and says they said it's play in the drive shaft causing this noise, and that they didn't seem worried about it. I only paid for the first visit.
Does this sound reasonable? Should I take it somewhere else for a second opinion? It does it on turns weather I'm on the gas or not. I like this car and I'm hoping to keep it for at least a few more years.
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I drive a 2006 F-150. I'm new to the forum and already found some good info on the annoying tick coming from my 5.4.
I have recently purchased a ski boat and lately when towing my boat and coming to a stop I feel as light movement coming from the rear of the truck that feels like something slides forward slightly. When I accelerate "it" slides back and if I accelerate quickly, "it" makes a loud clank noise.
I have ruled out hitch, receiver, ball, anything from the boat/trailer etc... It is coming from the transfer case/ spare tire area under the truck and it only appears to do it (or to where it is noticeable) while towing the boat.
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So now, what I'm noticing is a bit of a clunk in the steering. It's minor, very minor... but like any problem they usually start that way. The sound is very faint, you can't hear it under the truck, only slightly in the cab but you can feel it in the steering wheel, not so much when driving but when sitting still in a parking spot it's pretty obvious if you rotate the wheel back and forth. You can also feel it in the floor. Sometimes I'll notice this if I hit a bump while I'm driving.
Here's what I know, if you grab the tie rod, either end, you get a slight bit of rotation. Not just one end moving, but the whole thing has a small amount of forward back rotation (I'm not sure if this is normal) I had my girlfriend turn the steering wheel while I checked different components and there didn't seem to be any left right play on the tie rods. The boots look good on the tie rods ends, pic included, looks of similar quality of drivers side.
Then the kicker, here's where I noticed the gobs of grease on the top end drag link, pic also included. This was the last link I looked at, and I guess least expected.
So I guess I'm thinking this drag link is bad, but this is my first stop on the advice train. I wiped off the boot that was covered in grease on the drag link and it looked like its in fine enough condition but I also seriously doubt the shop that added the leveling kit just decided to slob grease all over the outside of this drag link boot. I have my truck oil undercoated before every winter but, that was some bit ago, and this looked more like grease to me.
Truck background: 2012 F250 6.7, I'm at 42,000 miles, 34in tires for most of that, and more recently added a 2 inch leveling kit (40,000 miles) and replaced the suspension all around and added a dual stabilizer. I had some noise coming from the drivers side wheel-well a while back and found that one of the end links on the sway bars was simply loose. Tightened up and all good to go. At 30,000 I got some death wobble. Replaced tires, the stock stabilizer had also gone bad, and had an alignment. Everything good since, but I'm thinking some of these problems now might be remnant of the bad tires.
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This is my first dual-bat vehicle. 2011 F250 with ~60K. Dual alternators. Bought in August of 2010. One battery(passenger side) was leaking pretty badly in ~2012 and was replaced under warranty along with the harness as it was corroded.
Yesterday, I drove the truck quite a bit on ~20-25 mile trips and left idling during a couple of them while inside Home Depot. No indication of any trouble.
Today, would not remote start, and when I put the key in and turned it to the on position, the dash lit up for about 3 seconds but once it started waking everything up, it all went dead. Start results in a faint click. I got 11.2V from a trusted meter. I've got my 20A charger hooked to one side right now.
Is there any special trick or attachment procedure to charge a dual battery setup? What about jumping off? Does one bad battery cause both to "act" bad? If I can determine which battery is causing the issue, am I safe to replace just that one, or should I get two new batteries?
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The car is manual, 95.000 KM. The problem is everytime i put the car in gear and start rolling, I hear a loud thump/clunk coming from the underside of the engine.
The only mods on the car are intake, a tune and a dog bone insert. The clanking is way more apparent when i'm in reverse. Whether i'm backing out of my uphill driveway or on a flat surface, EVERYTIME the car is at a dead stop and I give it throttle, something clanks...
My mechanic had lifted the car. He thought it might have been suspension, but he ruled that out. He believes that it is in fact the dog bone insert that is faulty. Upon further inspection, the red insert (from USP I believe) had cracked. although the insert was visibly broken (I've had it for barely 5000 km's, WTF) I'm not entirely sure that that is what's making the clunking sound because that sound was there from before I had put the dog bone insert in place.
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i am wondering if any other touareg v-10 owners have experienced what i call "slop in the drivetrain"?symptoms: when just crawling off from a dead stop and then letting off of the pedal i can both hear and feel a little clunk whether forward or reverse. its real subtle but its always there if you listen for it. Is this just what they call normal "slash" of the worm gears in the differentials? i would hate to find out later once warranty's gone that i should have done something about it earlier? i have 19,000 miles on it, 70%highway and 30% city driving.
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Slight clunk feeling from dead stop under more aggressive acceleration...my 14 250 AWD has done this on 3 or 4 occasions.
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2010 F150 XLT FX4 5.4L Crew Cab Medium box, nice blue truck, lacking on chrome though.
My friend has a clunk/lag on take off from a dead stop only. Drives fine down the road, but when taking off from a complete stop, you step on the gas, and nothing happens for a second, feels like it lags, then clunks, gives a jerk, and takes off.
From talking to other newer Ford owners, seems like a common problem.
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I have a 2002 F-250 7.3 Powerstroke 4x4. My truck has developed a "clunk" for lack of a better term when accelerating from a dead stop. It is not a shudder as it only happens once within a few seconds of depressing the accelerator and then goes away until the next time I stop moving.
It feels like either something in the drivetrain is not engaging right away, or something is releasing, like a stuck caliper or something. From the way it feels and what I've read so far about the TC/Trans, I'm assuming it is something worn in the drive-shaft/rear diff.
But it needs brakes badly (already have all new rotors & pads ready to install) so maybe a caliper is sticking when depressed and then popping loose under initial acceleration? I think this is unlikely but possible.
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The sun visor light on the passanger side isn't reacting anymore, when I open the mirror. First it all started that the lamp took some time before it reacted. Now it doesn't responde at all. There might be two possibilities what happend: The lamp itself broke or a wire from the sun visor to the roof has failed.How can I change the lamp by my self? Is it even possible? Are there any other reasons for it. Well, I suppose, I first need to remove the engine to get access to the lamp as it is with most of the parts in this car.
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My car is suffering after being stood out in heavy rain - which there's been a lot of recently. When I go to unlock it there is no response and starting requires using the key to be turned left first. Keyless entry doesn't work. All electrics are dead until the car starts. When it's not raining everything's OK again.
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I just got a 2008 Passat and have noticed that after I start the car, for about 10 seconds, I can very faintly smell coolant, it happens when the fan is off or on, and the temp is either on hot or cold. Its not bad, but it is there for short time.
It reminds me of how my older VW's would have a bad heater core, but even that was only noticeable if the heat was ON, this happens heat on or off. Also I see no leaks in the engine of any sort, the car only has 150 miles on it currently.
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When I turn off my 2013 3.6 I can hear a slight cooling fan noise coming from the right rear tire area. I opened the trunk to investigate where it might be coming from but it can't be heard from inside the trunk. The only place I can hear it is in the wheel well area. Any clue what this is?
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I think I'm becoming an automotive hypochondriac ever since I started owning this car...I was sitting at a light the other day and all of sudden I heard a faint sound coming from what seemed to be the passenger side rear of the car. It sounded like a ticking clock or a heart beat...it was some what faint, but still noticeable. It is intermittent though and has no particulars when it happens and seems to go away when I begin to drive off... Fuel pump? Gremlins?
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My 2004 V8 transmission was recently replaced under warranty with a VW remanufactured unit. Since then, I have two issues.
The first thing is a vibration at idle. In neutral, the vibration is present, it feels cyclical. When I move the shifter to D, I get the same vibration but it's much stronger. At this point it no longer feels as if I'm sitting in a Phaeton.
Second problem is a clunk when going from R to D. This is intermittent. Sometimes it doesn't do it at all, most of the time there's a noticeable clunk, and occasionally there's a loud clunk that you can really feel.
I took it back and they said they checked all the mounts and couldn't find a problem. Now they say they don't know what else they can do. Should I insist on further work? Do the above symptoms suggest that the transmission might suffer an early failure??
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Ever since I bought my 04 V8, the TPMS warning light has been on due to dead sensors and a disconnected controller (G model controller), and I had just learned to live with the alert and the icon on the display for the time being. Last weekend I installed a 6 button cruise control switch and recoded per Michael's instructions. The switch works fine and everything was good. After a couple of drives with the new switch I noticed that the TPMS was not giving me the usual failure message or the fault icon anymore. If I hit the Vehicle button I still get the same fault message in the J523 screen but no warning in the cluster, and no warning upon startup. Ran a VCDS scan and the errors for the TPMS module not being there are still present as they always were.
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