Phaeton :: Clunking Sound That Occurs At Low Speed When Braking
Dec 16, 2014
My Phaeton has recently developed a single clunking sound that occurs at low speed, either when braking, or when turning the steering wheel towards the right about 90. The clunk can be felt at the drivers footwell area too.
All four upper control arm bushings were replaced a few months ago and the antiroll bar links are pretty new too.
I have not identified exactly where the noise is coming from, but by placing my hand on all suspension components it seems that the clunk is most felt at the front left rear lower arm. Hence I am wondering if the bushing or the whole arm may need replacement.
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A clunk sound coming from the front end. Drivers side and Passenger side. Not really a metal on metal sound. The problem started after coilover install. The sound occurs while braking and accelerating over bumps. So what I've replaced:
-Strut Mounts and Bearings
-Lower control arm bushings (R32 bushings)
-Drivers Side CV axle
What I've checked:
-Tie rod ends have no play
-Ball joints have no play.
-I have no sway bar, so not the sway bar bushings.
-Its not the axle hitting the frame.
Could possibly be the dog bone mount but when I installed the 1' motor mounts I saw no issue but could possibly be the bushing. feel the clunk in my foot as well.
MK4 2000 Jetta 2.0 5speed With Raceland Ultimo Coilovers (Junk)
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I am noticing a sort of clunk or knocking noise from under the hood when I hit the brakes. I thought it might be the pads, but it comes from under the hood .It only makes the sound on the first touch of the brake, once you have your foot on the pedal it stops the noise. It does this every time on the first application of the pedal. Is this sound normal? I don't recall hearing it when I test drove the car, maybe it's been there all along and I am just now making note of it.
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I have been getting a clunking sound coming from the rear of the car while braking. it was louder and more frequent before a few things were done by the dealership in an attempt to fix it, however i still have the noise fairly often during normal driving. This is three months into the issue and i still don't have a solution from the dealer or VW. Things that have been done so far by dealership:
1. replaced left and right side rear caliper brackets
2. replaced rear brake pads
3. surfaced rear rotors
All of the above were recommended by vw, according to the dealership. there are notes on the last invoice that the noise was described as "pad slap." everyone involved is acting as if this is a great unsolvable mystery, which seems ridiculous on a new car. i first came to the dealer with the problem with 512 miles on the car.
Just got the car back this past thursday from the dealearship, 2 and 3 from the list above were completed, and they were "unable to replicate noise" during a test drive. after driving around over the weekend i've confirmed that the noise is still present (though less loud and less frequent), and was able to capture it on video--after the turn signal turns off: [URL] ....
i'm not the most knowledgable or mechanically inclined when it comes to cars, so i don't really know what to think of this. google searches turn up that many people have issues with clunking sounds from floating calipers, some say that it's normal, other that it's not. this is my first new car, first car with floating calipers, first VW, so i feel i'm coming at this pretty blind.
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I had to raise the car a bit to clear the apr turbo outlet pipe. Raised a little too much and was hearing a clunking sound pulling into my driveway or speedbumps, etc. Contacted HR and they said the coilovers have an operating range and to lower them a bit. So.. i have about 3/8" of thread left on both fronts and my (not so scientific measuring method) fender/ground is 24" vs 26.25 stock as measured on a stock gti on my dealer lot. I still have a ton of thread to drop the car (about 1.5") as seen in the picture below. The issue i have is what the spring looks like. It rides fine in my day to day commute so its not noticeable but looking at it, it looks collapsed??
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I've noticed for quite a while there's a slight clunking sound coming from the front chassis. It's more noticeable when the car's moving slowly, and when the car's driving faster the clunking sound becomes a vibration. I think it clunk maybe once when the wheel is turning a full circle. Does this indicates a CV joint problem? Both sides of of the front wheels have ruptured CV boots(for a long time). I'm just too lazy to get it replaced. Is it easy to replace the boots and ball bearings inside it, or just to replace the whole axle? The axles are not very expensive any way. Is it possible to find out which side need to be replaced immediately?
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2011 infiniti. new rear rotors/pads 6k miles ago. now there is a rhythmic sound with very slow speed braking. like a bad spot on 1 rotor. you hear a grind, stop, grind, stop. its not a constant grind sound. i looked at both rear rotors thru rim slots. rotors look perfect. very smooth. i have not pulled wheels to check. i am thinking rotors making sound vs pads making sound. but why would a rotor have an odd spot or rough patch? there is no ridge at all on rotors. cant see the pads rubbing on some rust ridge? there is none....
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I have determined that I most likely have a bad CV joint - a faint clicking sound while braking that varies with speed that happens with the car in drive, but not in neutral.
I've also found instructions here on how to remove/replace the axle, but I'm wondering if it can be done without separating the tie rod end and removing the ball joint. On other cars I've managed to do this by unbolting the strut, which allowed the hub assembly to flop out enough to be able to slide the axle out of it. Is this possible on the Prius? I have to replace my struts anyway so I was hoping to do it all at once and avoid dealing with potentially frozen suspension components.
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I went to check out a '03 7.3 SD the other day. It didn't seem to have a lot of surge when I accelerated to freeway speeds. Kind of lazy feeling. Didn't smoke out the back though. It did have a front end clunking sound going over the parking lot speed bumps. I opened the oil fill cap while it was idling and it blew a plume of vapor/oil about 9' high like a steam engine puffing. Held my hand over it and got a oil wet palm after just a few seconds. I'm hesitant to drop any $$ on it.
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A couple of weeks ago I came home from work to find my front passenger side wheel completely deflated. I didn't think much of it at the time and thought someone must have let it down. However, ever since then I have had a very low pitched intermittent 'whomp' sound coming from it, when braking at a low speed. When the car comes to a stop, so does the noise.
I'm beginning to suspect that the tyre being deflated was due to it not being properly sealed to the wheel. I'd parked half on/half off the pavement outside my house with the passenger side on the road. I assumed the tyre deflated because it couldn't handle the weight of the car on the tyre. I've inspected the tyre and there are no obvious punctures and the wheel has remained inflated ever since and I've now agreed with my housemate that I can use the drive to park it on for the time being to stop it happening again.
However, before the deflation everything was fine with the car and there was definitely no 'whomp'. What it may be/ways to check what it is myself and/or potential costings of taking it to a mechanic?
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I have a 2015 GS350 F Sport (RWD). A clicking noise occurs during braking and acceleration, but only sporadically. It seems to occur more often during heavy breaking and/or acceleration. The sound seems to be coming from the driver's side A-pillar or the driver's side dash at any rate. Sometimes the sound is a single click and sometimes it clicks up to 3 times.
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Here's the short of it. 3rd time in a year the brakes on my 2005 SF (177K miles, 2.7L) have gone out.
The brake pedal is very soft and goes to the floor before braking occurs. Typical signs of a bad master cylinder.
The first time was a year ago. I bought a re-manufactured master cylinder, change it and bled the brakes. Worked like a champ and lasted 10 months.
To months ago same exact symptoms. I assume it was a bad re-man part. It's under warranty, not big deal. I do warranty exchange, bleed system, brakes return. All is good.
Less then 3 weeks later, brakes gone, same symptoms! This time I spend the difference and get a brand new OEM cylinder with reservoir. Replace, bleed, problem fixed. Brakes go out in less than a week.
I'm not leaking anywhere. Reservoir is to corect level. ABS light is NOT on. No chattering in brakes. Braking is smooth both when power brakes work and when not. No visible damage to calipers. I'm 99% sure there is no air in the system, but I'm going to try bleeding again. I have not put it up on a lift to yet to check all the lines.
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The truck is a new to me 99 f250 7.3. The problem occurred before doing the brakes, and after. The front brakes had new pads and calipers(rotors appeared to be in good condition) while the rears got New rotors, calipers, pads. The persisting problem is a really bad brake shudder that seems to be getting worse. It only occurs below about 5-10mph when braking. on this trip back to school there is a hill with a stop sign at the bottom where i should have rolled forward when i let my foot off the brake. This didn't happen.
It almost seemed as if the tires(meaty 35in dick cepek crushers) where rubbing and catching on something. but we checked and it didn't seems as if they were, though they do come somewhat close to the bumper. Im not even sure if its brakes or what it is, a friend of mine said possibly the hubs, but what can i do to pinpoint it? I wanna try loading down the front with something to simulate the drop when braking and see if the tires do indeed hit as when going to a rolling stop with only a little braking it doesn't do it. Any other things to check?
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Driving back from Florida yesterday i noticed a slight grating sound when turning right at highway speeds ( 75 -85 mph). I noticed it particularly when driving through the mountains in West Virginia .
What it might be ? The car is very quiet (no radio on) and I am sensitive to road noises etc.
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I have a 2008 Subaru Legacy Spec B. It is a great car, and I am very happy with it. However, it is making this noise and no one can figure out what it is. I have taken it to the dealership three times and the never hear the noise, and they can't find anything wrong.
The noise occurs mostly in parking lots at parking lot speeds. When I got over rough pavement or speed bumps, I get a clunking noise in the front drivers side wheel well. It sounds as if something is broken or loose at the top of the strut, right at the top of the strut tower. I do not hear the noise on smooth roads or at highway speeds. I can get it to happen in certain parking lots, but the dealer would not go to those places.
Recently I started to get another noise out of the same area. When I back down my driveway (slight down hill grade) and I get towards the bottom, I turn the steering wheel clockwise almost all the way so that I back to the right and can pull out to the left. When I get to the bottom at full turn, I hear a loud clunk and I can feel the car shift around a bit. I can repeat this over and over by pulling back in and then backing out again. It only does it when I back up to the right, not to the left. Today, It did it again but I was on a flat surface, which I had not noticed before. I backed to the right, turned the wheels fully to the right, and it clunks. It also clunked two more times when I shifted into first and started to pull forward out of the turn, almost like it was hanging up on something.
The dealer looked at the car three times. The last time they replaced the stabilizer bar links and bushings, but it made no difference. They say everything is tight and looks normal with no leaks. I am thinking it is either a front axle or front strut that is bad, but they can't confirm. The struts are really expensive on this car, so I don't want to replace them on a whim.
Important details: This is a 6 speed manual car. Turbo 2.5L boxer 4. AWD, with 68K miles. Issue was first noticed about August 2011, seems to be getting worse recently.
What this could be. I love this car, as it is a monster in the snow, which will be flying soon, and I really don't want to be driving with something broken.
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Misfire occurs at highway speed under acceleration, the service writer stated "we have to do a coil swap" meaning they just swap them from around, and this is the SECOND time they have done this, according to them this is how VW wants them to address this, now I understand factory procedures cuz I work for a Porsche dealer, but wouldn't you think second time around you would replace those things.
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Is there a typical cause for whistling noise on Elantra ? Mine is a 2011. The whistling noise started recently, and occurs only at high speed say 80 kph and higher. It definitely sounds like wind noise, constant frequency no matter the speed. Does not sound like brake noise or belt noise, and does not change with changes in accelerator or brakes. I have taped up most gaps around the front of the car, including all around the windshield, with no impact. Note that I recently fixed a windshield wiper washer nozzle, which necessitated the removal of the plastic assembly that sits atop the bottom part of the windshield. The re-installation went well and everything seems well seated down (I had to replace 4 plastic rivets).
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I own a 06 sonata with 95000 miles. Recently I've been having issues with my transmission. It occurs only at slow speed when i travel in first gear. What happens is when the car is moving, it feels like it shifts into neutral but indicator still shows D in the cluster. I press the accelerator nothing happens it just revs,no increase in speed whatsoever.
So that rules out slipping issues. Now i narrowed the problem down a little more whenever the problem crops up i shift the gear lever into sports mode, i feel a jerk and car shifts into first gear and it moves. If i dont shift into sports mode it catches gear in about 7 seconds.No fault codes.
And if i rev it high transmission goes into limp mode and stays in 3rd gear till i restart the car.Then i get P0731 incorrect first ratio.Changed ATF 7000 miles ago. Could it be a faulty range sensor?
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I have a 2007 XLE-V6, bought new 10/2006, 39,500mi., and recently I had the issue of the bursting oil line that others have been having. Prior to that happening, I have been hearing a noise from the engine since the beginning of December. The noise is a ticking sound/knocking sound that occurs as I accelerate in 1,2, and 3rd gear on cold starts. This noise persists up until the time the engine reaches its ideal operating temperature, and then it just goes away.
The engine "expert" at my local dealership drove in it with me, and it only happens when the vehicle is in drive, not when idling or in reverse, so it has to be in the drivetrain somewhere. He said it shouldn't be a problem, since it does go away, but it's infuriating to hear it every morning and afternoon when I start my car.
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I'm hearing a disconcerting sound coming from my car as of late. It's a rattling sound, almost as if someone were shaking a can of spray paint at the same frequency as the engine. It doesn't strike me as being a heat shield, it's a heavier rattling, not really a buzz.
The sound usually occurs when I am above 2000 RPM, however, it does not match an RPM range or the car's speed—it seems more closely associated with the position of the gas pedal—about halfway to 3/4. It does not make the sound unless the car is in gear and moving.
On cold starts, the engine fires and runs, but then takes up to 30-40 seconds to really get going at a normal RPM. Efforts to coax it with the gas pedal are delayed by a second or two before they kick in...
The car is a 2001 model, and has 44,000 miles.
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I did F&R brakes (Adam's rotors and hawk & akebono ceramic pads) on my B6 4mo about a month ago. Ever since changing the brakes, there is a clunking noise, when going over bumps, coming from the right side, possible right front. The sound consistently goes away when I press on the brakes. It's a metal on metal clunk that you can feel and hear. Not terribly loud, but pretty annoying. What could be the cause?
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