Phaeton :: Coolant Overheating Warning Comes On For About A Minute Or Two
Nov 25, 2009
On a few occasion, usually during cool weather, the engine temperature rises up to 130 C, the coolant overheating warning comes on for a few about a minute or two and then the temperature goes back to normal (90 C.)
The car has 106,000 km. I purchased it last summer from an independent use car dealer. I inquired about the car calling the previous owner. He did mentioned that the only problem he ever experience was that the car overheated on a few occasion during the winter months (cooler weather).
Could it be that the thermostat needs to be replaced?
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I have a V8 engine, and I have been getting the coolant overheating warning come on once in a while.
The engine fans go crazy, and the temperature needle on the small round gauge climbs all the way to red then the coolant overheating warning comes on in dash screen.
This can happen right after I turn the car on, or on occasion, it can happen as I am driving around the city.
I stop, switch the car off, and I turn it back on after a minute, and the car is just fine. So, basically, it doesn't seem like the engine coolant is actually overheating, but the fans and warning systems seem to think that they are. The fans are pretty loud, and its noticeable when they go on, and when this happens, I know that the needle will go all the way up and the warning will go off. I also know that if I turn the car off for a minute, and it will be just fine.
The conditions are random for when this happens. So its not when its particularly hot or cold or anything predictable. Could this just be a sticky thermostat? Is it a bad water pump? Bad battery?
The trouble is that now I am afraid I cant take a real drive. Around the city I can just pull over, but I am afraid to take the car two hours out or something.
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Today I received a message on the MFI telling me that the coolant was overheating. My better judgement told me to immediately pull over at the next available spot to turn off the car since the coolant temp gauge was almost at 280. This is well over the 200 where it usually resides. However, the oil temp gauge was right at 200 which is normal.
Perplexed, I called my dealer. The Phaeton Tech was gone for the day so they suggested that I have the car towed in for inspection. Knowing the temperament of the Phaeton (2004 V8), I chose to restart after about 5 minutes. At that point, everything was reading fine & I drove home (about 20 minutes). I ran a VAG-COM scan to see if anything would come up, but nothing did.
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My Phaeton (V8) is overheating when the outside temperature is around 0 C (+/-10 C).
It rises all the way to 130 C, the warning signs comes up, it stays there for about a minute and than the fans kick on and the T goes back to normal.
It has been doing that for the last three years intermittently in the spring and fall.
This season it is getting more persistent and it is occurring pretty much every time I use the car (usually not more that once per cycle, a cycle being from the time the engine is started to shut down).
The dealership can't seem to find the problem. The thermostat was replaced at the same time that the water pump and timing belt were replaced and it did not solved the problem.
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I was cleaning my passat the other day and I took my air filter out, however I didn't disconnect the wires and hoses on top of the box, I just raised the top cover up and pulled the filter out and cleaned it and checked it and put it back in, I also took out the cabin filter out and cleaned it and put it back in too, then I started the car and took it for a ride and the car started over heating, it keeps giving me STOP CHECK COOLANT warning and the temperature rises all the way to max RED.
I check the coolant level is at level and the radiator fans are spinning, however I noticed the lower hose that goes from reservoir to the radiator is cooler than the other hoses, what could be the problem? The water in the reservoir is hot too, could this be from a faulty thermostat? a sensor? or somewhere I read there is a fuse somewhere in the engine bay? I'm not too familiar with these 1.8t engines, the temp sensor was acting funny before too like sometimes it would go all the way to zero and stay there and go up and go down to zero and then raise, which I think there might be a bad connection or bad sensor.
I forgot to add the car is a 2003 1.8T.
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Before I go buy a Bentley manual to dig around, when should my radiator fans kick on. I had the car idling for 10 minutes, no ac or heat on, and my coolant warning light came on, it overheated. It already has a new fan switch in the radiator, and the fuses are good.
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Coolant overheat warning. Luckily, was moments from home so pulled in and stopped for about 6 hours. Checked coolant on level surface...looks ok. Started it up and drove around neighborhood. Car steadily climbs to 200 degrees F and then will sit there for around 5 minutes. As oil temperature breaks the halfway point, the coolant temp begins to steadily rise again until it hits just below to overheat mark for a couple minutes, then finally pushes through into the red.
Parked car overnight.
Drove to VW repair shop. Exact same results driving there. Temp increases from ignition to 200 degrees over a couple minutes then stops for 5+ minutes. Oil gets hot, coolant gets hot, I get very hot.Only 10 Months ago, I replaced the timing belt, water pump, and thermostat with genuine parts. I know what a pain in the arse it is to change these items so I did them all at once. I am sick thinking about having to do it yet again with these apes poking around my car.
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Experiencing cooling problems with a truck this new? My 2 month old supercrew 5.0 began over heating on a road trip last week. After about 400 miles of driving I see coolant temp start climbing until the overheating warning popped up. Pulled over, turned engine off, popped the hood and did not notice any obvious signs of overheating. Ended up waiting about 15 minutes, started truck up again, temp gauge reading 1/2.
Get back on the road, within 5 min temp starts climbing again, reaches ~ 3/4 then all of a sudden returns to 1/2. Continue on 10 min later temp gauge climbs from 1/2 to overheating quickly. I pulled over again same situation no obvious signs of overheating, but allow sometime to cool off. Started truck again temp gauge reads 1/2. Continue driving and temp gauge seems possessed, going from 1/2 to 3/4 back to 1/2 to almost overheating as I nursed it to the next dealer that I could find.
Dealer tech was able to mimic the problem and believes that coolant is not flowing properly. Thermostat replaced, water pump pulled and inspected, air bleed out of the system, all with no improvement. Now heads are being pulled/replaced to see if this solves the problem. Its depressing to have my new truck with 2,382 miles sitting under the knife at the dealer.
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On starting today I had an alarm to check coolant. Never had this before - and the expansion tank was dry. No visible signs of loss - Oil seems fine and free from contaminant.. so I guess not the head gasket!
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While driving my 04 w12 a few months ago i noticed a "stutter" or brief jerk while driving. the next morning i had a "coolant level" warning. i took the car to a mechanic i use who diagnosed the problem as a broken coolant line involving the transmission cooler, with the result that coolant migrated to the atf. indication was that the tranny was toast, along with the atf cooler. I authorized a repair (not inexpensive), keeping costs down by installing a used tranny. since the car was "fixed" i still got a "jerk" usually in fourth gear, sometimes in third. i took the car back and was told that the tranny was flushed numerous times and the transmission was reflashed. i picked the car up yesterday, but i still get the "jerks", now usually in third gear.
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My 2005 Impala is overheating , sometimes, and only for a minute. (When it goes into the red, I pull over and turn car off for a few minutes.) The needle fluctuates, though. I read old posts, but my mechanic tried them. Here's what's gone on so far:
Replaced thermostat, flushed / refilled antifreeze , car worked fine for a day, then it started again.
He then took an air pocket out. He took it for a drive, it was fine. I drove it for a day, it was fine. The next day it started up again (needle quickly fluctuating, sometimes needle slowly fluctuating).
He replaced the upper radiator hose. He then drove the car (local and on highway) for 2 1/2 hours, it was fine. I picked it up and it was perfect for the rest of the day/evening. This morning, after driving about 8 miles, it started again. I'm dropping it off tonight. He said it is hard to know exactly what it is without trying things. He said next he would try water pump or radiator.
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This must be the week for Phaeton issues.
This evening as I was leaving from work, I started the car up and within a minute it died. I thought it must just be the cold, so I started it up again, and again it died. I had driven the car to work this morning, then taken it out at lunch time to run an errand, and everything was fine. I decided to drive the car to see if it just needs a charge, but again, as I was pulling out into the street the car died again. And again across the street in a big parking lot. Eventually I just pulled back into work, called the wife to pick me up and to bring along the vag-com cable and her laptop.
While waiting, I decided to start the car again, and again it died. So I wait, and once my ride arrived, I plugged the vag-com in and did a read. I got some initial intermittent faults, so I cleared them, started the car, waited for it to die, then did another scan to see what happened. Couple of things came up: Intervention load management kicked in (00907) and Supply Voltage Terminal 30 - Lower Limit Exceeded (00668 - 002).
I read another post where apparently it was the fuel filter that needed to be replaced. I did check the measuring blocks on Control 07, and it did say that Terminal 30 was at 0 amps, while Terminal 15 fluctuated but never went higher than 10 amps.
Is it a bad battery? A loose connection on the battery? Or should I do the fuel filter? Both batteries were replaced in late 2007, so it's not that old.
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Last week a warning light appeared on screen. It flickered on and off for a minute, and I think it was going on more when I was cornering. Then it stayed on and has been on ever since.
I did a search and read the post about the clock spring recall. But it is not a recall in the UK. I'm in the UK where they sold this model from 2006. I guess I'm going to have to take it to the dealer and get them to read the codes.
Is there anything simple I can check myself first, like for a lose connection under the seats of anything like that?
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So naturally I thought a nail had punctured a tire leading to a slow leak. When I got home I found no nail and the tire pressure on all four tires even but down to about 36psi.
I refilled to my normal of 40/38 and reset the TPMS with the button below the steering wheel. The light stayed on for a minute or two of driving then turned off and stayed off for my commute to work.
What I think probably happened is that I reduced from 42/40 to 40/38 recently without a TPMS reset. Then this morning the temperature outside was 55F and about 65F in my garage. When I left the garage at 5:20AM the TPMS light was off. I drive about 2 mile to the gym each morning and park my C for about an hour. This morning, when I got back in the car the tires had cooled to 55F and I guess that was enough to reduce the pressure far enough to trip my warning light.
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What is the meaning of the persistent warning beeps that occur approximately every minute? The warning beeps began after the car was turned off following a 200 mile trip and are still occurring now. No warning light ever came on. How do I stop them?
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2008 Prius touring, tire pressure warning light stays on after blinking for 1 minute. This started after changing the wheels for summer (rims and tires). Tried the reset button, no change.
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I am driving down the road and the TPMS light starts to blink - and then stays on. I looked in the manual and it says that "When the light comes on after blinking for 1 minute: Malfunction in the tire pressure warning system." The resolution is to "Have the system checked by your Toyota dealer."
All my pressures, including the spare are how I have them set. I also made sure to re-set the TPMS button under the steering wheel to the new pressures and everything. I'll let you know what I find out. I'm kinda mad a sensor has failed though on a car that's less than one year old.
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Had the low tire light indicating a tire has low pressure, which I have had happen before and so inflate all tires from 38 to 40 lbs each. After a few tire rotations, lamp extinguishes. Except this time it doesn't. It blinks for a minute then lights steady.
Any way to reset it (didn't find anything in owners manual) or tell if its the sensor in a tire or the sensor element on car? Either way suppose will be a visit to Toyota repair. Oh well, first real visit for a problem in six years (other than for recalls), other than headlight replacements and oil changes.
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I was having an overheating issue. First thing to check...does it have coolant. Reservoir said yes. Changed thermostat twice. Still overheating. Changed Water Pump & Belt. Still overheating. Decided radiator must be plugged so bought system flush. Opened radiator, about a quart of coolant came out. (BTW even after draining there was coolant reading in the reservoir). Filled everything up, followed the bleeding procedure and no more overheating. I'm not sure how the coolant reservoir works on this vehicle but I don't trust the "cold full" reading anymore.
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My 2004 v8 with 100,000 miles is running hot. The fluids are all topped off. When I start it up she warms up normally in around 5-10 minutes and the water is 200 but as the oil temp comes up the water goes up as well. After 15 minutes of driving the oil is at 200-220 and the water is 230-245. the fans are coming on but so far no lights or warnings.
Is this the sign of emanate water pump failure? I think the thermostat is OK because for the first 5-10 minutes it runs normally. Putting the heater on get the temp down a little. I am thinking I should drive my truck and order the timing belt, water pump kit! Is it possible that the oil pump or system isn't functioning properly?
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I have a small car which has only done 28000 kms and I bought it brand new. I have noticed it has been using more coolant than normal and it has become quite hot at one point. My mechanic went to service it and said it appeared that water was in the engine. (contamination of oil underneath the oil cap). As it is under new car warranty I took it back to the dealership. They said it was due to leaking core plugs and have replaced them. My mechanic said if it was leaking core plugs the coolant would be leaking out onto the ground not into the engine and contaminating the oil. Dealership said this is rubbish. I am confused and don't know who to believe. How do I know if it has been fixed or not and how do I know if it isn't something worse like a cracked head gasket?
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