Phaeton :: 2004 - Got Message Coolant Overheating?
Mar 3, 2010
Today I received a message on the MFI telling me that the coolant was overheating. My better judgement told me to immediately pull over at the next available spot to turn off the car since the coolant temp gauge was almost at 280. This is well over the 200 where it usually resides. However, the oil temp gauge was right at 200 which is normal.
Perplexed, I called my dealer. The Phaeton Tech was gone for the day so they suggested that I have the car towed in for inspection. Knowing the temperament of the Phaeton (2004 V8), I chose to restart after about 5 minutes. At that point, everything was reading fine & I drove home (about 20 minutes). I ran a VAG-COM scan to see if anything would come up, but nothing did.
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On a few occasion, usually during cool weather, the engine temperature rises up to 130 C, the coolant overheating warning comes on for a few about a minute or two and then the temperature goes back to normal (90 C.)
The car has 106,000 km. I purchased it last summer from an independent use car dealer. I inquired about the car calling the previous owner. He did mentioned that the only problem he ever experience was that the car overheated on a few occasion during the winter months (cooler weather).
Could it be that the thermostat needs to be replaced?
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I have a V8 engine, and I have been getting the coolant overheating warning come on once in a while.
The engine fans go crazy, and the temperature needle on the small round gauge climbs all the way to red then the coolant overheating warning comes on in dash screen.
This can happen right after I turn the car on, or on occasion, it can happen as I am driving around the city.
I stop, switch the car off, and I turn it back on after a minute, and the car is just fine. So, basically, it doesn't seem like the engine coolant is actually overheating, but the fans and warning systems seem to think that they are. The fans are pretty loud, and its noticeable when they go on, and when this happens, I know that the needle will go all the way up and the warning will go off. I also know that if I turn the car off for a minute, and it will be just fine.
The conditions are random for when this happens. So its not when its particularly hot or cold or anything predictable. Could this just be a sticky thermostat? Is it a bad water pump? Bad battery?
The trouble is that now I am afraid I cant take a real drive. Around the city I can just pull over, but I am afraid to take the car two hours out or something.
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This morning when I went to start my car i got a Service Now message. Once the car was started it went off and didn't come back on. I have no warning lights present on the dash what so ever. I've never seen this before.
What does it mean? I have an 04 W12 with 60,120 miles. BTW I've had all service work done for the 60,000 service. Car is beyond up to date with it's service.
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Coolant level message on my 2004 Ion won't go away. I have pulled the overflow tank and cleaned and flushed it. Checked the sensor with my multimeter for continuity, checked fine. Checked and remade wiring connections to the sensor. I thought maybe the float material was the same as would be in an hydrometer so it would only float in the correct mixture/protection level of coolant. Flushed and filled the system with 50/50 mixture of Dexcool. That theory was incorrect. The only thing I've seen so far that makes sense is a "software issue" that was mentioned in another discussion I read.
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I posted last week that I was getting an intermittent "Steering Failure - Workshop" message on my '04 V-8 Phaeton. I asked forum members if I was alone and no one responded to the post. Last week I made an appointment with my VW dealer to get the car's steering fault looked at but I wasn't fast enough. The other day the car would not let me start it. The 'steering failure workshop' problem doesn't seem to be a mechanical issue. There are two other '04 Phaeton's at my dealer right now with the same problem. It looks like my car will join the party awaiting new steering control modules. The back-order on the modules appears to be at least another three weeks. Funny, you can get an entire Phaeton steering column in two days. If and when this steering module goes south all kinds of fun interior electrical glitches jump on board. No one ever said owning a Phaeton wouldn't be interesting and yes I still plan on keeping it for a very long time.
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Second time that my 2004 Phaeton has experienced an ignition lock up. 1st time while driving the ignition shut off and everything stopped. I was getting the car towed and upon recheck all was well. Now, while driving, the panel flashed "Stop, Ignition Lock".
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I recently got a coolant flush done at the local vw dealer. The engine now runs hot at 200 degrees whereas it was just 160 degrees before. Is this normal for hot weather. Not sure if this is a mistake on the part of the dealer or something conked out opportunistically. A vag com scan shows everything normal. The car has 75 k miles and no other major issues.
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I just had the timing belt (water pump and thermostat) replaced in my 2004 V8. I drove it home from the dealer (75 miles or so) without incident. Drove it to and from work (4 miles) without incident for a few days.
Last night I drove ~5 miles, idled in a parking lot for ~10 min and then drove another 5 miles and it overheated. Once I shut off the car it would not come back on. I waited for it to drop below 200C and it still didn't start. Electric consumers would come on all was well....but no start.
Car was towed to the local VW dealer who do not have a phaeton tech. After the hour and half it took for the tow truck to arrive and half an hour to tow it....it started up.
I am now thinking about my next move. As I read through everyone's overheating experiences they are mostly
1. Failed thermostat (which one? does the bottom thermostat control water pump operation?)
2. Fan issues
3. Air in the coolant line following a flush (could be, but I drove it home in the cold on the first day with the heater on)
4. False readings due to a bum (upper?) thermostat.
I have a VCDS but have not been able to get out to the car to give it a shot.
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Pulling out of the driveway my 2004 Passat's computer told me there's an issue with the coolant and that I should STOP, so I pulled back in. My VW dealer has this coolant in stock (G12, red) but considering it is 7 degrees outside (or minus 14 C) I wonder whether I can't ignore the warning and drive the 2 miles rather than get on my bicycle.
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I have a 2004 Honda Civic ex coupe. I have changed the thermostat (twice), fan sensor, temp. sensor. The fan works and when doing an oil change the oil looks normal. No white smoke coming out of my exhaust and I got two radiator flushes, no dirty coolant, and I have replaced the cabin filter. The car doesn't overheat as long as I keep my temperature on hot. If I were to change the temp. to cold it seems like the coolant goes into the reservoir, but it seems like it doesn't go back into the engine. The mechanic that did the flush said that the hoses doesn't to be clogged because the coolant that was removed was green. They stuck an air blower in the heater core hoses and to show that was not clogged as well. The AC worked, I haven't checked in about couple of months. Also when the car overheats there is no smoke coming from the engine. radiator has been burped as well.
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My 04' GTI, 24v VR6, all stock, @ 107,000. I had a coolant leak from the t-stat housing. I installed all new housing, seals, and C-Pipe from GruvenParts. Already had a green CT sensor installed and the kit I got didn't come with one, so I didn't change it. Found out the leak was from the t-stat housing o-ring didn't fit the old housing. The new one fits perfect. I put coolant on the seals and burped it. Doesn't leak a drop. But still overheating, all the hoses have pressure and are hot, so no blockage....I noticed the fans were not coming on at all. The fans used to engage every other minute and run for 15 secs on high ONLY. Longer times, if not constantly w/ A/C on. I was wondering how to test the fans, sender, and/or fan control module to see which one of them isn't working. And which pinouts are what?
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I am getting a P1150 code on a 06 Prius (240k). Red Triangle and temp light come on after about 15min of driving (no heat). I have taken it to the dealer. They said the Coolant control valve (stuck) and waterpump (leaking) needed replacing. I replaced both of these myself along with the temp sensor and radiator cap, but the problem persisted.
Coolant is also shooting out of the overflow hose in the reservoir tank when car warms up. I just took it to a different shop yesterday because I was assuming I could not get all of the air bled out of my system. They charged me $200 and said there was quite a bit of air in the system. The first thing I did when starting my Prius was to check the heat, no heat. I drove it home and immediately noticed there was yet again coolant spitting out of the overflow tube. I didn't want to believe this was happening again. I drove it to work this morning (15min drive) and the red triangle and temp light came back on.
I now have been driving it with the radiator cap loose so the pressure does not build up and spit the coolant out. This works for short drives, but I've noticed my coolant is disappearing quickly. No visible coolant on the ground or anywhere in the engine bay.
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Ok so I have an 04 Jetta 2.0 and lately it's been overheating on me. The first time it started overheating was because my radiator was cracked and leaked out all my coolant, I swapped the radiator everything was fine for a while. The second time I started overheating, I saw my primary fan was bad it wasn't spinning at all, I swapped it everything was fine for another while. I also changed the coolant temp sensor, it wasn't bad it's just because the coolant flange was leaking coolant, so I changed it a long with the O-Rings and sensor. I also changed the thermostat just incase that was the problem but it wasn't.
I don't think the fans are turning on by them selves when they have too, but either way the car still overheats when I turn on the fans manually with the A/C. I'm not sure if the coolant is circulating, as the car only begins to overheat when I come to a stop and it idles. I have a feeling it's the water pump but I wanna be sure it is before I change it. What it could be? Things that I should check for that usually go out?
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I have an 04 gti 1.8t and last night it started over heating. I pulled over and checked the coolant and the oil but everything looked good. I let it cool down and drove it home. When I popped the hood there was a little steam coming from the coolant overflow tank but I saw no leaking. I decided to vent the pressure off the system and then I got a little drip on the passenger side close to where the inter cooler is. I can't pinpoint the leak though.
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I have a 2004 VW Phaeton.
Today, the sound system failed, then shortly after, the navigation system failed.
On the console, if I press any map/navigation buttons, the error message "Navigation System Unavailable" is displayed.
If I press an audio related button, the error message "DSP system is unavailable". I took it to a private vw repair shop and a vw dealer. What was causing the issue.
I am now headed to a vw dealer with certified phaeton tech. I looked towards fuse issue, but they appear to be ok..
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I have since purchase of the car for 9 months ago enjoyed the use of the rsap functionality with my S6 connected over the Bluetooth.
Now without any knowable change of settings or update or hardware I got a no network message after connecting to the car.
The phone and the car are still connecting over BT and the phonebook is transferred and all the adjustments within DIS are working as before, I can even make a call but without connection to a network it won't work.
I know GP2s rsap is restricted to 2G networks and if I search networks manually with DIS , the car finds 2 of them, but can not connect none of them.
My service provider Comviq is telling me that there has not been any changes on the SIM card accessibility or newly implemented improvements or updates to Android.
They could anyhow confirm the 2G net being rather weak in the area and this could be the possible reason.
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Today after leaving office I switched on the ignition and for the first time I see this massage "Immobilizer activated". I went out to look at the car and found some finger prints on the driver side window.
Is the car so sensitive to touch? Or the alarm was activated for some reason and some one tried to look inside the car?
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Lately I've been getting the Stop! Car too low! message when I start the car if it has been sitting more than 6 hours or so. the front appears to be too low. After 20-30 seconds, the front end raises up high enough and the message goes away. It didn't do this when I first got the car. I'm going in for my 80,000 mile service soon.
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After 3 trouble free years my car had a different TPMS problem, with TPMS FAULT message popping up. The dealer initially changed one or two sensors and then the most updated module. For 1 day there were no problems and while driving on the highway the malfunction warning came up again. Now they are suggesting it could be related to the tires that are not the original ones, but same size and specs and I have been driving on them for a year without any problems.
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Today I had been driving about ten minutes when I got a "Check Gas Cap" warning, inclusive of beep and appropriate icon. Pulled over, switched off but left key in (this is equivalent to a warm boot in my experience), opened gas cap and closed again (it was fine). Turned engine on, got same message, remained on until destination (approximately 20 minute drive). Parked and locked car for approximately 2 hours (equivalent to a cold boot). When I turned on the engine again, the message was gone, and remained off for the rest of the day.
The car had been sitting unused in a heated garage for a little over two weeks, and the weather today was nice, sunny, a few degrees above freezing.
In my view, it clearly was not related to the classic "fuel cap not tight enough" problem of modern cars: for one, I had not just refueled (in fact, I have a little over half a tank). Also, I always tighten the cap until I hear at least a few clicks. SO I wonder if it might be an early warning that my maintenance battery is getting weak, i.e. spurious error message triggered by low voltage?
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