My V6 3.0 TDI 2007 car is basically just driving fine, however occasionally i did noticed (when cold) a rare hiccup in accelerator response from standstill. Today i made a scan on VCDS, and found this engine fault, what could it be? The car is officially and recently maintained by VW dealer.
View 11 RepliesThe other day I went to leave a car park and started moving but the car didn't respond to the accelerator - it was moving with no errors on the MFD but only at idle.
I'll get a VCDS scan tomorrow? Is there a known issue with the accelerator potential meter or wiring?
The throttle response from a standstill seems VERY slow. When I push down the accelerator, it seems to go down a good 3-4 inches before I meet any significant resistance, and even then, I can do a good 2 second count before the engine seems to engage. If I am stopped at a light, and I slightly blip the accelerator, then push the pedal down, it does better. But if I am stopped and floor the gas pedal, nothing happens....at ALL...for at least 2 seconds. It is slightly better when in manual, but the issue is enough for even my wife to comment that it takes off very slowly when you first give it gas.
View 14 Repliesmy 2007 3.2 s80, 75 K miles, will not respond to accelerator for the first 1-2 miles after a cold start, then runs fine, no check engine light has shown. Per shop recommendation switched to 92 octane x3tanks, then replaced fuel sensor, neither solved.
View 15 RepliesJust reporting following problem that seems to affect most VW TDI engines with DPF - I have just experienced it on my Phaeton - basically as you accelerate you get the engine fault - workshop warning with a flashing coil (glow plug heater lamp) - this is accompanied with reduced performance (no Turbo) in a protect mode, stopping and restarting the engine clears this temporarily. the MIL eventually stays on (performance unaffected until next time the dreaded engine fault appears) - It's a bit scary and if you go to the dealership, they will try to convince you that you need a new sensor and DPF and estimate a cost of 1.5k plus)
I can recommend RD garage services in Shepperton (Richard is an ex VW Phaeton and Touareg Specialist) Richard changed the sensor and performed a forced regen cleared all of the fault codes (the gearbox had even gone into a performance limiting mode due to the faulty exist pressure sensor). All is now well car back to pulling like a train and back to mid 40's mpg on a run.
My check engine light came on over the weekend. It was not blinking so I am hoping for just a sensor fault or some other inexpensive issue. I am trying to remain hopeful but after having to replace 2 coils and both catalytic converters about 40K miles ago I am really nervous...
I took the car to the shop this morning for diags but what might be causing the problem? It is a 2004 V8 with about 142K miles.
I was queuing for the Dartford Bridge yesterday, and had been about 20 minutes in crawling traffic, when for the first time ever the DPF indicator came up on the dashboard with a message to check the manual. Then moments later I got the engine fault, workshop alarm which was quite insistent. Reaching the tolls I pulled away and then 'booted' it for a while in sport mode and both indicators disappeared...so I thought I had cleared the problem.
I reached work without incident, but then when I came to restart the car later in the morning, I had the engine fault come up again with a very insistent chime. I phoned my dealer and took it in...the DPF indicator coming up again while in traffic on the way there. The fault has been diagnosed as a faulty diesel particulate sensor, which is now being changed on Monday when the part arrives.
Just got into my 2006 Sonata V6 this morning. 120,000 miles. Drove last night, no problems. Started her up now this morning, noted check engine light and ESC lights on.
Pushed accelator pedal, no increase in RPMS at all. Put the car in gear (auto), car moves forward and backward, but pressing the pedal doesn't increase the rpms at all, so right now its not driveable. Luckily, its in the driveway so I know it could be worse. Took floor mat out, no interference issue there.
I changed the starter solenoid and that was over 45,000 miles ago. Never had that problem.
New 2015 Escape. Since I got this car in January I have had this problem where occasionally pressing on the accelerator does nothing for a few seconds and then accelerates like popping the clutch in a stick shift. i.e., I was stopped at a redlight with traffic in front of me. The light went green and the traffic was moving very slow. I depressed the accelerator to match the slow speeds. Traffic began to pick up speed and depressing my accelerator more was doing nothing. I gave it slightly more accelerator and nothing. Then my car jerks forward like I popped the clutch, (my car is auto).
The traffic in from of me then stopped and I had to slam on the brakes to avoid rear-ending the car in front of me. This occurs often but I cannot repeat the event. It happens occasionally and without warning. No faults showing.
I had it back to the dealer right after I bought it. I was told to allow time for the adaptive system to break in. At 2k miles I had it back in and was told, no faults, driving it showed nothing, it must be me. Now at 3500 miles, called Ford and was told to take it back to dealer. I have an appointment next week. This is more than a nuisance as I am very concerned pulling into a parking lot or in the example I wrote about could easily end in an accident with another vehicle or pedestrian, especially children.
My wife was driving our 2 young kids on the highway and the accelerator was making a loud clacking noise and then there was no response when pressing the accelerator. She managed to get to the shoulder. Mechanic says the engine is totally cooked (long block replacement). Only 32K miles and all scheduled maintenance done.
View 7 Replies2002 Ford F350 Powerstroke, 7.3L, Automatic, 4 wheel drive .... AFE Stage II Intake, 5" full exhaust, TS 6-position tuner chip, Swamps 140lb injectors
Intermittent accelerator problem: no response, just goes to idle. Runs perfectly with no other issues but zero response when the accelerator it pressed. There seems to be no pattern to the problem as this happens at any speed/position on the pedal. When the accelerator goes out the check engine light in the lower left corner comes on. All fuses are good.
Symptoms began a month or so ago feeling like an occasional 'hiccup' or hesitation. Symptoms occurred a few more times until a couple of weeks ago (Friday, 2/20/15) when it left my son stranded a few miles from home. He was able to limp it to a parking lot and we left it over night and went and towed it back to the house the next morning. The truck started and ran fine just no accelerator so we towed it idling so we would have power steering/brakes, etc. As we neared the house the engine light went out and the accelerator began working and he was able to drive the truck the remaining 1/2 mile home.
Most all of the research I did came back with the Throttle Position Sensor as the culprit. I was able to order one (the complete accelerator pedal assembly that is*) at a Napa store in a nearby town and picked it up on Tuesday (2/24). As soon as I installed it everything worked fine.
As an aside, I have read a lot about the mid-2001 switch from the units with the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) and IVS (Idle Validation Switch) as separately connected units to the 'new' style where these parts are combined into one and there is a single 5-wire connector. Being a 2002 there was no question as to which one I had. Just be aware of the difference. Also, this part is simple to change. The connector has a clip that you pinch down on with your thumb and then pull off. I use my little electric impact with 1/4" extension and a 10mm socket. Zip, zip, zip an you're done. It takes me longer to get my tools out.
A few days later on Friday (2/27) it presented the sporadic accelerator symptom a couple of times again but was able to get the truck home. The next morning I unplugged, cleaned (CRC Contact Cleaner), and dabbed into the connector a small amount of dielectric grease to insure good connection. (I had read that in my research as well). That seemed to work beautifully and he said it ran fine all day and until the next afternoon (Sunday, 3/1) when it began acting up yet again.
I continued to research and could find nothing that would suggest anything other than the Throttle Position Sensor. I read that some other folks had gone through a few of the Napa/aftermarket units though so I began thinking that maybe I had just gotten a bad unit.
I have a 2005 F250 5.4L 2wd. Parked the vehicle in my driveway and the next morning there was no response from the accelerator and the CEL light and the wrench light on. I pulled the codes and came up with codes P2104, P2107 and P2110. The KOEO code was P2122. I checked the wiring and connectors and all appear to be fine I replaced the throttle body and no change. I removed the accelerator pedal and tried it on another vehicle and it worked fine. I have power to pin 16 on the diagnostic port. After clearing the codes and rescanning the same codes come up immediately.
View 14 RepliesWhat the fault codes below could be indicating. Let me quickly bring you up to speed. I was experiencing and issue with my car running rough (engine miss/hesitation) between 1200 and 2800 rpm. My ESP and CEL lights both came on. Eventually, my car stalled on me while driving. After attempting to restart the car a few times, the engine finally started. I took the car to two dealerships and was told the Mass Air Flow sensors and Intake Manifold Runner were faulty and needed replacing. After reading some of the post on the forum, I deduced the intake manifold runner would not cause the car to stall. That said, I purchased two new MAF sensors and replaced them myself to no avail. I still had the problem. I took the car to an independent mechanic (who has experience with phaetons). He hasn't been able to identify the issue. He provided me with the fault codes below:
Address 01: Engine Labels: 4D0-907-560-BGH.lbl
Part No SW: 4DO 907 560 CS HW:
Component: 4.2L V8/5VG 0030
Coding: 0007873
Shop # WSC 01065 000 00000
VCID: 79F21F7E33C272C
6 Faults Found:
[Code] ....
What I should do next. My car starts fine and idles smoothly. After driving the car for a few minutes, the engine miss/hesitation shows up.
My V8 is "sputtering" between 1000 - 2000 RPMs. Not only can you feel it, but you can see the tachometer bounce up and down as well. No problems accelerating or putting the engine under load - it's only between that RPM range where there seems to be hesitation. The car is not giving any fault codes, and I just recently had all plugs and coils changed. (The car ran great for 2000 miles following the plug and coil change.) It started on a road trip, and I took it to the local dealer. They thought it was bad gas. (I've since run several tank fulls through it...)
My suspicion is a mass air flow meter beginning to go, but until it triggers a fault, I can't say for sure. The dealer wants to check the MAFs values and to do a fuel tank pressure test to see if it's the fuel pump. I do have the Real Driver warranty, but they will not cover investigative costs. I'm not too excited about throwing money to test a bunch of different things.
i have a 04 ford excursion 6.0 with the egr delete, was stopped at a light to make a left turn, when i stepped on the accelerator pedal nothing happened as the engine was just idling. i pumped the pedal around 10 times and finally got the engine to rev up. i just got this excursion and don't know to much about the maintenance on it. i am going to drain the water and change the two fuel filters. my neighbor is familiar with diesel engines and he said to look at the throttle sensor. i have run this engine up to 900 miles and it has started and run perfectly. i believe the usual maintenance like oil changes etc were done on it. would any error codes show up even though no warning lights on the dash.
View 8 RepliesI own a 2000 F250 7.3 Powerstroke 4x4. The only aftermarket engine modification I have is a Tymar intake. The problem I'm having started about 6 months ago in a very erratic fashion. I would pull up to a traffic signal and as the light changed to green, without warning the truck would have no throttle response. The engine was running fine; there was just no response as I stepped on the accelerator pedal. Usually when I put the transmission in neutral, revved the engine a few times, the throttle would come back on line. This happened 4 or 5 times over the summer and then went away completely until today. Today it came back with a vengeance. At one point I had to shut the engine down completely to restore throttle response. It's a bit unnerving when it happens in the middle of a busy intersection. I was told that it may be the throttle position sensor. Does this sound correct and does it need to be replaced?
View 14 RepliesMy car is suffering after being stood out in heavy rain - which there's been a lot of recently. When I go to unlock it there is no response and starting requires using the key to be turned left first. Keyless entry doesn't work. All electrics are dead until the car starts. When it's not raining everything's OK again.
View 2 RepliesI have passat 2007 2.0T , about 98000km. A few months ago, my vehicle randomly has hiccup with EPC light when I put on the pedal. Each times i put on the pedal my vehicle hiccups and EPC light on and all goes away when i put off my foot from the pedal. It happened randomly, so i went to vw dealership twice. They keep saying they could not find any problem. Coz as i said it happens randomly. I paid diagnostic fee but still the problem remains.
Unfortunately today i had the same issue hiccup like crazy with epc and engine lights. Also on the highway my baby 2 years old was with me when i drove, my vehicle lost power all the sudden, all most i involved an accident with following vehicle. I started the engine, vehicle moves but with the problem. I feel wheels do not spin properly or transmission randomly. What the problem is?
I purchased my first Ford back in 2006 it was a 1999 Explorer Sport. Gave me a long line of problems from suspension to head gasket repair to rear main seal repair to ANOTHER head gasket repair. But sure enough, like I'm sure many of you have, I fell in love with her. She could do no wrong. Even now that I got her off the road she is still my baby. Now my recently purchased 2000 Explorer XLS which I've only had for about 5 months just yesterday started doing a strange hesitation. Perhaps a misfire. My initial instinct was dirty fuel injectors that hopefully if I'm lucky will be the easiest fix in Ford history. Another hypothesis is a bad plug. Either way, in my mind, that's best case scenario. I have yet to take it in and plan on buying some injector cleaner later on today. When I'm idling there's no problem. It's as soon I step on the gas that I feel the hesitation. Almost like a constant hiccup.
View 6 RepliesGot a bit of an issue with the cabin lights in the rear. I am able to manually turn on the lights by pushing the individual light buttons, however if I push either the 'door open' or 'rear light' buttons there is no response.
View 3 RepliesShe is really running rough. Vcds engine scan shows no value on bank2 of the O2 sensor or lambda once I drill down into things. I haven't been able to figure out much else. Also I was getting a fault for a misfire cylinder 3 so I replaced all the coils on that side of the engine and put in a new set of spark plugs all around which did improve things but the car is gutless from idle to around 2000 rpm then it starts to pull. The check engine light blinks for about 30 seconds and then comes on steady. I used a propane tank to try and find any vacuum leaks but everything looks good so far. I guess I will take it to my independent shop hoping his scan can shed some more info on the O2 sensor readings.
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