Prius (2001-03) :: 2002 Won't Start After Replacing Aux Battery
Feb 23, 2016
I pulled the traction battery...remanned it with great success computer very happy with results... drove it for a week. Took it to Walmart to have oil changed... Got in car , started fine...new oil made motor even smoother....then in 200 yards at traffic light , motor died with unusual sound... pulled over and restarted...but would die. Lights all over dash on.
made it back to oil bay...engine would not restart.
pushed inside and would start and then die... then was rattling when dying
checked aux battery with testers , both indicated dead cell 10.25 volts
tried to substitute a new battery via heavy jumpers... got it to start then die..,..then no try at all
I have read forums ,,,that indicate after 3 tries on a dead aux battery , computer will immobilize it
Have tried replacing with a new lawn tractor battery .but seems the car is immobized . Read codes with Mini VCI, and was able to clear all codes but the immobilizer code.
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I wanna know if I can take a regular car battery 500-600 cca to replace the old aux battery.
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I have two Prius's, a 2008 and a 2005. My 2005 with 129k miles on it is the one in question. Recently I got a check engine light with the code P0A80 and P3016. I purchased a pair of tested to be good cells from Ebay which finally arrived in the mail yesterday. Today I finally got around to installing it and everything was pretty self explanatory... One of 28 cells tested to have 6.24v in block six and all the others had between 7.98-8.00v all around. I went ahead and replaced the bad cell with the new one and put everything back together and now the car will not start.
Cliff notes: Replaced bad cell in main battery back due to CEL P0A80 and P3016.
Car will not start, only turns on...
Getting error message on the radio screen about the Park position is not correct and to park the car on a flat level ground with parking brakes and try again.
Have charged the 12v battery to make sure it has enough juice in it.
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I read in the owners manual that the engine antifreeze should be an ethylene glycol type. I believe that Prestone makes this type of coolant in a 50/50 mix. Is that correct? Also, what type of coolant does the inverter use? I want to try and stay away from buying it at a dealer. Also, my gen 1 has 117,000 miles and I must admit that I have been slacking with the maintenance. My gas mileage is down to 40/mpg compared to 48-49mpg when I got the car two years back with 40k. I am pretty sure the original auxillary batter is still in it, so I order a new one today. I also plan an changing the transaxle fluid, PCV valve, air filter, and cabin filter. The plugs where changed at 80,000 miles. Where can I order a gasket for the transaxle pan? I intend on dropping it and cleaning it out. Do you think this will get the gas milage back up?
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I have a used 2002 hyundai Elantra gt that I've owned since the 4th. I bought this car and everything was fine but I had to put a new battery in it because the previous owner was taking hers. A week after replacing the battery the car died, I thought maybe it was a bad battery so I replaced that one also and the car ran for about 2 days and then died again. I replaced the alternator last Monday and again the car ran until this past Thursday. I took the alternator back and had it tested and it failed. So I went to a different shop and had an alternator tested before purchasing it and it passed. Put the alternator in but the car won't stay on longer than 30 min.
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Got a recall letter last January from Toyota concerning a false warning light on my model. Letter mentioned that moisture in the cables was triggering a false warning message about the main battery. My 2002 was having this problem. The dealer refused to do the work. Told me they did that recall work in 2006 but I did not have the problem back then and Servco Hawaii told me that Toyota had not put that out as a recall back then. The light has gone off and on now for a year. Car drives perfect otherwise and only have 60,000 miles on it. What do I do?
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I bought a new battery for my passat 2001 1.8t, installed it last night car turned on fine. Today turned on fine again I took a ride to the store when I came back the car did not turn on. I go a jump nothing, but the battery had plenty of juice. Lights, radio everything turns on. When I turn the key it doesn't crank at all, and all the dash lights come on. I noticed the alarm does not sound when I manually lock the door. I bought a battery for my keyless remote and noticed the alarm doesn't turn on that way either, nor do the locks function with the remote. Could it possibly have to do with the alarm being deactivated?
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Having problems setting driver comfort controls after replacing the battery. Does the car have to go thru a relearn process before all will come back to normal?
Used to be able to keep A/C set on auto. Now the A/C and fan motor won't come on unless you turn A/C to Off and then hit the AUTO button.
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I have replaced the battery, the alternator is good. I turn the key ignition on and NOTHING. All lights turn on and go off after a few seconds. No clicking noise. It turns om quickly when it is jumped.
I can re enter car a few times, but after a day or so the same problem. What can I check to solve this problem.
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I bought my 2002 prius with 120000 miles. Last night it died with the main battery light and triangle of death on. I haven't taken it to a dealer to have the codes checked out you, but will do it soon. My daughter was driving it when it happened and said the car started shuttering and died. She was able to drive it a few feet at a time before it would die again. Does this sound like a HV battery problem? I will be digging into it tonight.
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I have a 2002 prius with 143,000 miles. On Friday, I went to start my car and put it in gear and the check engine light came on and the "triangle of death" lit up and car died. I turned it off and waited about 30 seconds and tried starting it again. It started and I drove 1/2mile home. Went into the garage and got the Actron/OBDII code reader. Pulled the code P3125 which when I googled it, it was referring to the inverter. I cleared the code and all was well.
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I have a 05 Avalon keyless ignition that I have recently replaced the battery because the car wouldn't start not even with a jump. With new battery everything comes on in the dash as normal, but the car won't start. Could it be the starter is gone bad or could it be a fuse?
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I have a 2001 Echo sedan that was given to me. It has sat unused for several months. The radio and Acc lights worked, but the car wouldn't start and the battery would drain very quickly when not in use. It sat for a few more weeks, and then I replaced the battery, now the radio will not turn on at all (everything else is fine).
I checked all the fuses, and they are good (though, not the ones on the radio itself). I will be replacing this with an aftermarket stereo anyway, I just want to make sure it is the radio that's the problem, and not something else in the car. From reading, it seems that it could be an anti-theft function, for which a code would need to be entered to unlock the stereo, but nothing is displayed on the screen at all when the car is on, not "SAFE" nor "SEC". There may be a certain button combo I need to hold in order to bring up the code prompt, but what those are, and the ones I have tried haven't worked. The radio is just an AM/FM Model #: A51408 (image attached).
So do you think I only need the code, something else might be wrong, or the radio just coincidentally died? No mention of a code is made in the manual.
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My 2002 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.7L V6 AWD failed to start a week ago. After towing to my neighborhood repair shop, it was diagnosed as a faulty ECM based on code P560 (System Voltage Problem). They replaced the ECM (along with relay) with a used one with the exact same part#. After that, the car was started and run OK but Check Engine Light stays on all the time. The codes displayed are:
P1529 TCU MIL Request Signal
P0501 VSS Range Performance
I was told that this is caused by the fact that each ECM is VIN/PIN locked. The replacing ECM was used in another car before and was locked with a different VIN thus cannot communicate with some components of the current car.
My questions are:
Can this used ECM be unlocked and relocked with a new VIN/PIN? If so, does it require the previous VIN/PIN to unlock? Most likely the previous VIN/PIN is no longer available.
Does this service require the presence of the car or can it be done with the ECM alone? Do keys need to be re-registered? The car starts fine currently.
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2011 Toyota Prius Two, not II,smart key device (FOB) is not funational (can not open doors, etc) after replacing battery, and now how to fix, re-sync, etc?
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Codes indicate bad battery block 10. One of the cells in block 10 had lower voltage than any other cell in the battery. Ordered new cell and replaced it. The 12V battery was never disconnected, but the battery ECU was disconnected to allow it to be moved out of the way for bolt access.
After reassembling the battery with the replaced cell, the no-load voltage of the battery is 215V. The car powers up with the alarm indicators still on (as expected) but putting the car in drive and pressing the accelerator has no effect. I double checked my connections. The HV relays are not being energized. Do the codes need to be reset before the car will move?
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My Prius has 150k miles on it. We didn't drive it for a few days and when we went to turn it on,it wouldn't work. We were able to jump start it a couple of times, however after that we ended up having to replace the battery. We purchased it brand new from toyota. Then, the car wouldn't do a thing (No sounds, no lights, other than the red amber power button and the flashing check engine light, which was not on before.) We ended up having two blown fuses and we replaced them today, one was for the battery.Now the lights are on, but the car still won't start. It will cost over $200 to have the car towed and I am really trying to avoid that right now. I don't know much at ALL about cars. but I'm trying.
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We just replaced the Traction battery in my 2004 prius. The car has 242,000 miles on it and was running fine when we pulled it in. The battery was purchased used from a 2005 prius with just over 80k on the clock. The replacement battery was removed from the wrecked prius less than a month ago.
The problem is that after installing the new traction battery, every thing looks great except the Ready light will not come on. There are no warning lights except the little red light that indicates there is no key in the car. The key will remotely lock and unlock the car so I'm sure the battery is not dead and the no-key light stays on even if I insert the key into the key slot on the dash. The shifter will only move from Park to Neutral.
What am I doing wrong? Is there some special procedure to go through to make the car recognize the key after replacing the battery?
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I was at Walmart today and FINALLY remembered to get a couple keys made for my 02 prius. I have been taking somewhat of a gamble considering I only got 1 key when I bought it.
I tried the keys in the trunk. Cha Ching! Unlocked and locked the doors. Cha Ching! Put the key in the ignition and turned it. Cha Ching! Went to start the car and Nothing!!
I could turn the car into accessory and into the run position, but it would not put the car in ready mode. At first, I thought my battery died. I took a deep breath and put the "Toyota" key in and she started right up...
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I own a used 2002 Prius and have only been driving it for about two months. In the last week it has given me some trouble on start up. I turn the key, but the engine will not start. Unlike some of the other comments I've seen here, I'm not getting any warning messages when my car won't start. I turn the key and the dash lights either come on half lit or not at all, the computer screen doesn't light at all when this happens. If I hold the key in the start position for a few (up to twenty seconds) it will eventually turn over and start, but that seems to be draining the big battery and doesn't seem like the best way to start the car. This happens about 2 out of every three times I go to start the car and it doesn't seem to matter how long I've had it parked - could be an hour or overnight. Conversely, it could be sitting for a day and a half and start without issue. All in all, there seems to be no obvious condition that would cause this, and I was curious to know what I should troubleshoot and in what order. As with many people these days, money is scarce and I don't have the money or time to keep it in the shop for a week for diagnostics, especially when it might be something I can easily fix on my own.
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I replaced the hybrid battery in my 2005 Prius today & when I disconnected the 12v battery the wrench arced & I assume that I blew a fuse. I have looked, but have not found anything. I hope I am missing something obvious.
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