Prius (Gen 2) :: 2005 Won't Start After Replacing Bad Cell In Main Battery Pack
Oct 30, 2011
I have two Prius's, a 2008 and a 2005. My 2005 with 129k miles on it is the one in question. Recently I got a check engine light with the code P0A80 and P3016. I purchased a pair of tested to be good cells from Ebay which finally arrived in the mail yesterday. Today I finally got around to installing it and everything was pretty self explanatory... One of 28 cells tested to have 6.24v in block six and all the others had between 7.98-8.00v all around. I went ahead and replaced the bad cell with the new one and put everything back together and now the car will not start.
Cliff notes: Replaced bad cell in main battery back due to CEL P0A80 and P3016.
Car will not start, only turns on...
Getting error message on the radio screen about the Park position is not correct and to park the car on a flat level ground with parking brakes and try again.
Have charged the 12v battery to make sure it has enough juice in it.
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My Gen1 battery is giving up after 157,000 miles and I had a tech pull the engine codes which were 3006 and 3014 indicating SOC voltage even and cell #3014 going bad apparently. I started looking for a new battery and browsing these forums but started wondering if I could just replace 1 cell instead of having to buy a new or rebuild the whole pack. I'm sure it would be best to replace the whole pack with a Gen2 rebuild but money is an object so if I could get by with just a cell or 2 that might be a better route for me.
I didn't find an exact answer to this in the forums:
Does it make sense to replace just 1 cell? Might I get another 50,000 miles on it?
The car is driving but stops every 5 miles or so where I have to turn it off and back on again to get it to drive again. I'm sure it's not good to drive in this state but should I cease driving it immediately or risk damaging something else? I've been driving short trips for a day or two...
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My car started giving me trouble I ran the scan tool and it told me that cell 6 was bad on my battery. I replaced the cell and put the battery back in now the check engine light is on and the problem triangle is on and the car wont start and only shifts into neutral but when I check for codes i get nothing .
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I have a 05 Avalon keyless ignition that I have recently replaced the battery because the car wouldn't start not even with a jump. With new battery everything comes on in the dash as normal, but the car won't start. Could it be the starter is gone bad or could it be a fuse?
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My Ion won't start under -15 degrees C but when things warm up turn the key and it roars, dealer says when it won't go call us. What to do? Battery cell freezing or something else I should know about?
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My Prius has 150k miles on it. We didn't drive it for a few days and when we went to turn it on,it wouldn't work. We were able to jump start it a couple of times, however after that we ended up having to replace the battery. We purchased it brand new from toyota. Then, the car wouldn't do a thing (No sounds, no lights, other than the red amber power button and the flashing check engine light, which was not on before.) We ended up having two blown fuses and we replaced them today, one was for the battery.Now the lights are on, but the car still won't start. It will cost over $200 to have the car towed and I am really trying to avoid that right now. I don't know much at ALL about cars. but I'm trying.
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I replaced the hybrid battery in my 2005 Prius today & when I disconnected the 12v battery the wrench arced & I assume that I blew a fuse. I have looked, but have not found anything. I hope I am missing something obvious.
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The guy that I use to rebuild my batteries has recently commented that most of the bad cells he has replaced have been on the driver's side of the battery farther away from the cooling fan. He has since started rotating the cells as preventive maintenance as part of the rebuilding process.
I am interested in other peoples experience regarding where they are finding the defective cell/cells.
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last week I got a whole array of warning lights, including the triangle of death. Took it in to my local mechanic who diagnosed it and told me it was the HV Battery. So, as a temporary fix, we did some DIY and just replaced the bad cell. Everything went well, just some minor troubles toward the end with the engine not turning on, which we fixed by switching the orange switch on the battery and disconnecting and then reconnecting the 12V battery. It was driving great, until u got to work this morning and all the lights came on again. What am I missing?
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I pulled the traction battery...remanned it with great success computer very happy with results... drove it for a week. Took it to Walmart to have oil changed... Got in car , started fine...new oil made motor even smoother....then in 200 yards at traffic light , motor died with unusual sound... pulled over and restarted...but would die. Lights all over dash on.
made it back to oil bay...engine would not restart.
pushed inside and would start and then die... then was rattling when dying
checked aux battery with testers , both indicated dead cell 10.25 volts
tried to substitute a new battery via heavy jumpers... got it to start then die..,..then no try at all
I have read forums ,,,that indicate after 3 tries on a dead aux battery , computer will immobilize it
Have tried replacing with a new lawn tractor battery .but seems the car is immobized . Read codes with Mini VCI, and was able to clear all codes but the immobilizer code.
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I posted earlier getting failure codes that might indicate something wrong with the battery pack. The codes were P3000, subcode 123, v0100 subcode 211/330. My independent mechanic said that I needed both the battery pack and the battery ECU replaced, based on these codes and the fact that they tested the hybrid pack under load.
At the same time, my auxiliary battery was low. You folks suggested replacing that first.
So I did. I have so far driven over 140 miles without the engine check light and triangle of death coming on again. But I do notice that the SOC screen shows my battery going into the green far more often and far more readily than I remember it doing so in the past. All it takes is a little downhill (say quarter to half a mile) and it will go into green--sometimes 100%.
I'm guess what I'm looking for is some sort of objective data that says my mechanics are right and not shining me on.
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I am a new Prius 2010 owner - One question - I read in the manual you should not carry your remote control near your cell phone since it could cause decrease battery life. Does it matter if cell phone is off? I always carried by Camry remote control in my purse with my off cell phone. Camry is 7 years old and battery still works.
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Back in November/December I discharge/charge-cycled each module in my battery pack 3+ times after replacing 3 bad modules. I didn't get to reassemble everything and drive the car until the holidays. On short trips around town, everything seemed okay, but on longer trips (limited data here, but say 40-45 miles) I got the red triangle and some other lights (see photo). I read the code as P3024 which from what I find means Battery Block 14 Becomes Weak. I can clear the code and the car is happy until the next trip...
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Does PIP have two different batteries for each mode (EV and Hybrid) or is it the same battery?
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About 1500 miles ago, I replaced a cell in the battery pack. Now the triangle of dead is back and the code is "replace battery pack" again.
I tested all the cells and here are the results.
(the previous one I replaced was 4.5 volts, very low and easy to find)
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On more than one occasion, when I have gone in my garage at around 5 a.m., I hear a hum/buzz coming from the back end of my Prius. It has to come from the battery pack because the sound seems to come from under the back end of the car and is not as audible when I open the hatch.
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I have a 2007 toyota prius. The car drives, but pulsates. The Check engine light and triangle of death are on. Diagnostic test says "replace hybrid battery pack", but wouldn't the car not even start if the bat pack were dead? What it could be? perhaps a bad cell or two? a bad ecu?
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Just returned from a mechanic who tested my 2004 Prius with 134,000. It indicated there is a problem with the main battery. I was trying to avoid the dealer but it looks like it is a must. He suggested I ask the dealer to remove the battery and bring it to a place in Clearwater Florida to have them refurbish it. If I try to trade in this car I won't get anything for it with the engine light on, right? What should I do? I replaced the 12V two months ago.
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I need to replace the main battery on my 2003 prius - whether or not they've replaced the battery, and what the end result was afterwards - did the car continue to last? Is this just a "regular maintenance' thing and all else will work swell, or is the beginning of the end?
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My main battery is dieing will my prius run on just gas until I can get it fixed? It is a 2001 hybrid. I need to get to work for the weekend.
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Ok just bought this 2001 Prius One Owner new car trade in it sat for a month without moving It needed a boost to start it then the three lights on the display lighted up PS+Main Batt + a pic of the car with a ! in it ! is it just from sitting so long and the Battery is low ? If I use an OBD and reset it will this and a charge take care of the problem ??
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