I recently replaced the center console due it being damaged whilst replacing tape player, while reinstalling the circuit boards I damaged the ribbon cable between the two circuit boards and the heater and ac do not work. How or what I can do to repair or get a replacement part.
View 8 RepliesWe have a 2009 BMW X5 with an AGM battery that leaked and damaged the negative cable. We don't know what caused this, and we're concerned it might be due to a problem with the battery sensor, voltage regulator, alternator, or electronic system/software. The dealer says there's no way to tell, and that "batteries just leak." However, we pointed out that BMW's online marketing info states that "The acid cannot leak and damage the battery housing." Based on this express warranty, the BMW dealer refunded us the cost of the new battery, cable, and labor. However, since we've read that battery failure is rarely due to the battery itself, but rather a symptom of some other problem, we're concerned.
View 2 RepliesI have an emissions test coming up. I have 3 P codes that I'd like to eliminate before then. I don't want to "fix" the issues they are telling me about. Just make the codes go away. I know why they're there I just need to get rid of them.
What I have coming up is:
P0475 Exhaust Pressure Circuit Valve (result of EBPV delete)
P0541 Intake air heater A circuit low (result of aih delete)
P0640 Intake air heater control circuit (also result of aih delete)
What resistors I'll need and where to put them in?
Started this winter as a misfire on random cylinders. I replaced all apart plugs and verified the gap. Replaced all the coils. Still occurred during the cold months. Once it warmed up it went away for a short while. The only codes present at the time were random misfire codes. Took it to a shop and they told me the injector was bad on cyl 1. Today I replaced the injectors with a matched set of 4 matched flow Denzo remand. Ran it on the TIS tech tool and was given a barrage of codes. I can unplug #1 coil and it will smooth out and stall within 90 seconds. Engine runs rough. Intake was just done as well. From Toyota TIS
P3191 – engine didnt start
P3000 - Battery Control System
P3101 – engine system malfunction
P3190 – poor engine power
P1300 - ignition circuit malfunction #1
P0303
P0302
P0301
P0300
c1259 - ABS error code meaning problem with regenerative braking. Probably caused by me forcing the car to recharge the HV while misfiring. HV battery was getting dangerously low from sitting for the last 6 months.
b0116 – LH airbag circut
SC430 came up with the check engine light, showing a "Oxygen Heater Circuit Malfunction", code P0155 (bank 2, sensor 1). Searching, I found out this is the oxygen sensor in the passenger side exhaust manifold.
My car is high mileage (over 130K), it's hard to justify purchasing a $230 sensor and paying for installation. My only goal is to keep the check engine light from turning on and passing state inspection/emission (the check engine light will prevent passing inspection/emission in my state).
Got the CEL Bank 1 Sensor 2 heater circuit fault. Is that the rear right post-cat oxygen sensor? What is correct part number or possibly a link? 2002 2.8l Passat V6...
View 3 Replies1997 2wd, 4.0 - As you can guess it runs pretty bad at idle. It has O2 heater circuit codes for all 3 sensors. I'm leaning towards the ECM because the 2 heater wires are both hot with the key on. I unplugged the computer and turned the key on and just one wire is hot. Looks like the ecm is supposed to ground the wire to turn the heater on, but it's going hot instead?
View 14 RepliesCEL/OBDII code P0141 - O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction
So I just bought this car 64k well maintained but cant get rid of the check engine light. Replaced downstream O2 sensor with no luck. As soon as I get home I'll check voltage @ connector. Lets test the O2 sensor connection and test the pins to make sure there is no break in the wires.
My 2006 F-250 SD with 6.0 diesel has some sort of cut-out for the heater circuit, and possibly for the A/C as well. This truck was probably a fleet vehicle for the Houston Port Authority. Didn't really notice this peculiarity until it got really cold outside. If I start the truck up and let it idle for 10-15 minutes the water and transmission temperature get up to the normal operating ranges but the heater/defrost circuit does not heat up. Cannot defrost the windshield.
If I drive to the end of my driveway, about 600 feet, the heater/defroster starts putting out good heat. When driving, if I have to stop at a stoplight, or any other pause, with the truck still in gear, the heater output starts to cool down. I suspect that this feature was incorporated in the circuitry at the factory to prevent the driver from sitting still to keep warm. The truck MUST BE MOVING to allow heat or defrost to operate. The blower motor operates and it doesn't matter if the truck is in gear or not.
Just got a P1135 Code on the 1MZ-FE 2002 Camry.
My code reader pulls it up as (no typo below) : AirCFuel Sensor Heater Circuit Response Malfunction.
So I know it's a bad Air/Fuel sensor. Which one though? I replaced the rear sensor by the firewall about 6 months ago which fixed the check engine code (I don't remember the code). Would it make sense that the front one failed now or the back one failed again? Most of my research points me to a bad rear sensor however a lot of people also report that a code reader would report the sensor as "Bank 1 Sensor 1".
The rear sensor was replaced with a Denso 234-9042 Sensor.
I would play the replace and test game... however inspection is due within the month and after resetting the code, it usually takes about 50 miles to return. Being in college, 50 miles takes about 2 weeks.
I have a 2002 Jetta 1.8t. My check engine light came on and it gave me the code P0135 sensor heater circuit. Bank 1 Sensor 1. We bought a new 02 sensor and replaced it. We definitely bought the right one too. Cleared the codes. After a little driving the CEL came back on with the same code P0135. What is wrong and how I can fix this?
View 6 RepliesJust started the truck after not running for a few weeks and drove around fine. Looked down and suddenly a CEL was indicated. Checked it with my Edge Evolution diagnostic mode and Code P0161 came up 2nd bank downstream heater circuit fault. I've also have an exhaust leak in the right passenger side exhaust manifold for about the last year. I've been waiting to install my newer 03' used engine when time and funds permit.
View 3 RepliesWhat can be done regarding these faults? P0037 and P0057
Description:
Oxygen Sensor Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1, Sensor 2)
Oxygen Sensor Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 2, Sensor 2)
The catalytic converters have been removed but the fault was present before that anyway. All I want is the VSC function to work again and the lights to go off. I have heard you can put dummy sensors in.
Okay, so I have a 14' 6.7L, about 18,438 miles on it and the check engine light came on when I was at the gas station ready to leave, and so I took a field trip to auto zone and they scanned the CEL and it came back as P20BA - Reductant Heater 'A' Control Circuit Performance and they said I need to change out the pump assembly so I took it to the dealership and they cleared the code which worked for awhile, about 4 months ago the light came back on and I'm wonder if I should get the pump/heater changed out or get it deleted? The warranty is going to end in august this year..... It's been fine no issues with the truck, even tho I drive with the CEL on and just wondering what I should do? The CEL has been on for almost 5 months.
View 4 RepliesI have a 1996 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer Edition 5.0, the check engine light is on and my code reader gives P0161 and P0155 both stating that the O2 heater circuit sensor is bad. I replaced all 4 of the O2 sensors in the truck, cleared the codes but they still keep coming back. I have tried for a few days now to find something online similar to this but have had no luck. I am not sure what else to do.
View 1 RepliesP0032 Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1, Sensor 1)
I have read that in 2005 chrysler changed the ohms levels for the oxygen sensors and may need to have bcm reflashed to get a new oxygen sensor to work wheither its dealer item or not, is this true if i were to buy a mopar oxygen sensor? aftermarket is out of the question being the ohm readings would require me to spend some time at the dealer. is this code a defective sensor? or could it be related to the thermostat being faulty? am not low on antifreeze and temp gauge reads normal.
I have a 2001 Nissan frontier SE the 6cylinder, no turbo, automatic transmission. My wife was not paying attention and thought the truck was running and so she put it in reverse and then realized that the truck as not running so she tried to start it while in reverse, when that didnt work she put it back into park and when she tried to start it, the cd player restarted and the wipers started and the guages peaked and whe truck made a fast ticking sound. i thought that it may have some how killed the battery but it does the same thing with the new battery in.
View 3 RepliesIt's a 95 honda civic with about 140,000 miles on it aka a really old box of metal.
I was driving up to see my friend in ojai when I noticed a random ribbon of smoke (as if someone had left a cigarette burning for a second) wafting in the car. I freaked out, called my boyfriend, and he told me he didn't know anything about cars and to call my dad. I was only 6 miles away from my destination and I didn't see any more smoke and so I kept driving.
I should have called my dad or just stopped driving in retrospect, but the point is that when i got to my destination I noticed that the car was overheating and that there was smoke coming out of the front of the car.
I popped the hood to let the heat escape and got towed home shortly after. Today my dad is telling me that the engine is fried and the car is no longer drivable.
So my question is - how much of this is my fault//would this have happened to this old car anyway? I ask because I never drive, live in NYC, and didn't really notice any real sign of smoke but also because I want to know if i should pay whatever kelly blue book thinks that piece of junk is worth to replace or just chalk it up as a loss since it was such an old car anyway and was bound to die at some point. I also ask because I feel like i have terrible luck with cars and maybe I should never drive again...
So, I got a 01 b5 1.8 5spd given to me was broken timing belt. The car is super clean with 226k on it and had been well-taken care of..oil changes Mobil 1 and such. the owner just got his $$ worth and drove it till the belt went, slapping then towed it to my shop. It did not overheat and he was not driving it hard. Now here is my real question...apars lapping on a new belt and crossing my fingers, what testing can I do to check and see if there are any valves damaged? Can't I do a compression test w/out the valve train in time right? Also, if there does happen to be head damage. I would be in the market for an AUG head, unless it's just a valve that can be replaced....
View 6 RepliesI have some codes on my ranger 2000 here goes
P0141: o2 sensor heater circuit malfonction (bank 2 sensor 2 )
P0455: evaporative emission control system detected (large leak)
Now I will need to get that fixed cause I don't know where to look and what to look for ... For the leak I know there is a big crack on the plastic where the gas lid is could that be it ?
I keep getting this code even after fixing hoses with leaks. I am guilty of over filling my gas tank all the time can this have damaged the vapor canister on my 2001 dodge caravan....
View 7 Replies