Prius (2001-03) :: When AC Turned On Light Begin Flashing Immediately - No Code
Jul 24, 2014
It's getting hot, and the A/C in our 2002 is completely nonfunctional (and has been since we bought it a year ago). Unfortunately it also doesn't provide a diagnostic code.
When the A/C is turned on, the light begins flashing immediately, and the air is not cold. I've tried it while the engine is at high RPMs, and idling in the driveway with no change in results. When I put it in diagnostic mode there still aren't any codes (except the solar sensor if it is dark). If the ICE is off when I turn on the A/C, the ICE fires up briefly then shuts down.
The mechanic we bought it from suspected the compressor. I hoped it was really the clutch (seems common), and that I could just put in shims to adjust the spacing. The only code I have gotten from it was for the cabin air intake servo motor shortly after we bought it. I found a mouse nest in the cabin air filter, which I figured was causing the problem. After replacing the filter the code went away but the A/C still wouldn't work.
I'm wondering.. Is there anything else I can do to trigger a DTC? Are there any specific problems that wouldn't have a DTC? Would a compressor/clutch problem certainly trigger a DTC? Can I test it when there is no functionality? (It seems more common to have intermittent trouble with that). If some of the mouse nest was sucked into the A/C system, could it cause this?
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I'm not so sure what is the problem because when the ac light flashing and I'm closing the ac switch and turn it back on the ac start to cool again but start flashing after few min.
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I have a 2006 prius with about 75k miles on it. It was sitting for a few months (due to loss of job exp tags no insurance) finally got financial issues squared away and when I was ready to use my prius it would not start.
Jump start got it going and it drove great. Occasionally after having the car parked it would give me problems starting. sometimes screen would read "There is a problem with the transmission "p" lock mechanism. Park your car on a flat surface, and fully parking brake" after following steps and turning car on and off a few times it would allow me to drive.
Last night I got home and parked my car, turned it off and immediately noticed that as soon as I powered off the car i lost all power. I tried starting car right away and no power at all. door locks, all lights, brake lights, everything off. this morning i tried jump starting car and nothing so I went to toyota and had the 12v battery replaced.
Unfortunately still no power however power button illuminated green when pushed but nothing else, still no power nothing but the green light. I pushed the power button once more and light illuminated orange and when i applied the break i could hear clicking noises under the hood but still no power at all... nothing. I checked all fuses and everything checked out ok. I also checked the 120amp fuse and it seems to be just fine as well.
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I have a persistent issue with the OD off light flashing on my 2001 7.3L auto 4x4. Scanning it with AE I get the P1832 code. The truck runs and drives just fine. It shifts nice, goes into overdrive, locks up, etc. If it weren't for that blinking light I'd think it was all perfect. I've checked all the connections, replaced the range switch / neutral safety switch, replaced the VSS on the rear axle, checked all light bulbs and fuses. I've checked MOST of the relays in the truck.
I pulled the tranny drain plug and poured out a bit of fluid into a clean pan, it looks and smells good. AE also tells me that it's not communicating with the ABS system (although there's no persistent ABS warning light on the dash), the Airbag, the Overhead Trip Computer, the Parking Aid (which I don't have...), or the Enhanced Powertrain. The temperature on my overhead display is reading -40F which is clearly wrong.
I've looked for a comprehensive wiring diagram for the truck, but can't find one. I'm trying to figure out if there's a connector or module that these various functions go thru that might be the problem. Am I missing a ground somewhere? The frame was just powdercoated......am I not getting a good ground connection? In complete disclosure, I have torn this truck apart and re-assembled it out of several different trucks as outlined in this thread.
[URL]....
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I have a 2001 F250 Super Duty with a 5.4L engine, regular cab. The truck has 149000 miles on it. I bought it about a month ago and had the transmission rebuilt, the spark plugs and coils replaced. Apparently the shady dealer I bought the truck from had power washed the engine and there was water in 3 of the spark plug wells on the drivers side. When I got the truck back from the transmission shop and backed it out of the parking lot, the OD off light started flashing and the SEL light came on. The code showed to be a P0720 to which the mechanic at the transmission shop replaced the speed sensor on the top of the tranny.
He said if it comes on again then the speed sensor on the rear differential could be the problem and that he would have to charge me to replace that sensor since it isn't covered under the warranty for the transmission.. I replaced the sensor myself on the rear differential yesterday and thought the problem was fixed. I drove the truck around for 30 minutes with no problems, until I put the truck in reverse, then the OD off light started flashing and the SEL light comes on giving the same P0720 code.
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I bought a used Toyota Prius last winter and when the weather became hot I tried to use my AC and it worked well for a while before the Ac light FLASHING and then the AC doesn't work but the fan still working and the air became hot more than the outside temperature !! And that only happen when the weather temperature is 30c or over !! So I took it an AC tech and he told me he couldn't do anything to it because it's a hybrid car and it uses 600W Ac, so I took it to the Toyota dealer and they looked at it and they didn't know what is the exact problem so they told me I need to change the clutch relay and if it didn't work then I need to change the Magnetic Clutch.
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My A/C light starts flashing after about 30 minutes of use. The A/C is still cold while it's running, but it warms up when the light starts blinking.
At this point I'm planning on replacing the clutch assembly. How far apart do I need to take the car so I can reach the clutch? Is there something else I can test to see if the compressor is on its last legs, before I put money into the clutch?
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I have had a 2002 Prius since December of 2012, and it has been running fine since I got it; while it was in a wreck in May 2013 that has rendered both passenger-side doors and windows unusable, I have not seen that incident cause any other problems, and the car still runs perfectly fine. I am supposed to be driving from my current home state for a job soon, but about a week ago while I was driving on the interstate, the check engine light started flashing.
I was changing lanes and putting a good bit of pressure on the gas in order to pass someone that was going below the speed limit, putting my speed at around 80 mph when the check engine light started flashing. I started getting off of the interstate to find a place to stop and inspect things, but the light stopped flashing when I got down to around 45 mph on the exit ramp, and I was able to drive the rest of the way on the interstate without any trouble, even when I got in the 75 mph range again. The span of time between the light starting to flash and turning off again was probably about a minute or so.
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My new to me 2001 Prius has a slowly flashing Airbag light. Reading this handy forum I found that by jumping two pins on the OBD port I could read the codes generated by the flashing lights. I did that, and have a 3233 and 4448. The car runs and drives fine, fluids are all good etc. Can the codes be cleared and see if they return?
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The green A/C light on my 2002 Camry (4 cyl) will start to flash after the the A/C is turned on. After reading about the relay fix I tried swapping relays and had the same symptoms. The compressor will engage and for the few seconds that its engaged it will just barely start to blow cooler air until it starts to flash. I then noticed that with the relay completely removed I would also get the flashing light after a few seconds when the A/C was turned on but the air would not start to turn cold.
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I was driving around and I got a low oil light flashing and it turned off straight away.
So I checked my oil. When I first removed the dipstick it shows full, wiped it clean and put it back and it showed empty.
I put have a bottle (small one can't remember size) of oil in. I drove around parked waited a bit, and it does this same thing.
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I have a 2010 Prius IV. Yesterday, a new indicator started to flash after I turn off my car. It is an image of a car and lock. I checked in my manual and it appears to be related to immobilizer system. I have the smart key and it is flashing this indicator and beeping with both smart keys. I called a Toyota dealer and it sounds like it is just my security system activating after I turn off my car. The man said it was normal and it should have been doing this long-term. My car has never beeped and flashed this indicator until yesterday. Is it something I should be worried about? Does this mean my security system has never been activated until yesterday???
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My gen I Prius started having issues. Every time I drive about 30 miles the triangle and check engine light come on with a ding and also my dash lights immediately dim. I just replaced the 12 v battery. Still no fix.
I also switched the fuel pump relay with the horn relay which seemed to work the dash light dimming problem (oddly enough). So I'm not sure what it could be.
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I have an '01 Prius, 185,000 miles. A few years ago, it developed an engine (?) knock immediately after starting; disappears after 30 sec. It has gotten progressively louder and now runs very rough during those 30 sec. After that, just hums along.
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I always take care of my car oil changes on time. And in the last week my check engine light turned on for a few hours then turned off. And today it turned on again. I kinda regret getting rid of my scan gauge now.
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I purchased my 2001 Nissan Sentra about 4 weeks ago and the check engine light came on about a week into owning it. I scheduled an appointment to get it checked, but continued to drive it without issue until one day I started it and as soon as I began driving it lost power. The more gas I gave it, the worse it got. It just wouldn't let me go anywhere. So I parked the car and let it sit for about an hour. Then when I went back to show someone else the problem, the car started and drove again like nothing was wrong. Since then, this has been happening frequently. I will start the car, it will spit and sputter and lose power, I will turn the car off and wait a while, it will start up again no problem.
My local mechanic told me the computer was throwing a bunch of different codes, including the one for the catalytic converters. They also told me that since the problem seems electrical (the car seems to reset itself when I turn it off) it could be that the computer is going and that’s what needs to be replaced. I've taken the car back to the dealership where I bought it, they replaced the oxygen sensors, thinking that would fix the problem. I just got the car back yesterday and drove it for about 60 miles without any problems, then that check engine light came back on and the same old problem is back. My question is, how do I know if the problem is mechanical or electrical? What if I replace the catalytic converters when it’s actually the computer that was the problem all along or vice versa?
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I have a 2000 VW passat, and yesterday when I tried to parking, the alarm turned on immediately after I switched off the car and the warning lights of EPC, generator and Malfunction all turned on. So I sat inside the car and read the manual book but found nothing I want. The alarm persisted for several minutes. And when I got out of the car, the alarm turned on again.
The worse is when I tried to bring a friend to take a look, this situation would not reappear, so it seemed like that it will just turn on and turn off randomly.
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2001 Honda Accord EX 2.3L 4cyl. check engine light is flashing off and on with a PO1399 code
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I have a 1998 expedition 4.6 4x4 check engine light on od light flashing sometimes checked it and got p1747 code i was told epc solenoid or short on trans wiring. I already dropped the trans pan, looking for a step by step easy way to diagnose and find the short or if i need to replace any of the solenoids. I have voltmeter and taste light....
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The problem I'm having is with a 1994 mercury sable 3.8Let me start off with the things I've fixed, water pump, thermostat, radiator, complete head job done profesionally, and fan is straight wired to run on high all the time.
Now the interesting part. The car immediately overheard when the AC is turned on and only when it's on. It only overheats when your moving, not when your in park or in stopped traffic. What the heck is going on with it? All fluids are changed regularly and full. i unplugged the temp gauge sensor when running and it did not drop the needle does this mean it's bad?
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This morning as soon as I started the car, the speedometer dash turned completely scrambled and the rest of the lights keep blinking/flashing. The car does turn on and drive. Upon drive the Maint Reqd and Low temp icons keep flashing. I think I smell something burning as well but I not sure.
In the video below you can see the scrambling. Occasionally it will just turn off. I tried the battery disconnect but did not work. I definitely think something is burning around dash but cannot be sure.
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