Prius (2004-09) :: 2006 Shuddering / Stuttering On Idle When Accelerate Onto Highway
Dec 20, 2010
I just purchased a used 2006 package 3 with 66500 miles on it. Drove it to work today and the car started sputtering/shuddering when i was accelerating onto the highway. The check engine line came on so I took it to the dealership. Turns out it was a bad sensor.
When they fixed the bad sensor, the mechanic told me that its normal to feel a slight stuttering when the gas engine kicks in or off which seems to be confirmed by other members here.
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I have a 95 Buick Regal, V6 3.8 Liter. The symptoms are the following: stuttering idle. And lack of response at times when I try to accelerate. Like sometimes I'll be driving on the highway, and having no problems. Then I'll be going up a hill at around 55 mph, and then the car will shudder as I try to maintain a speed of 55 mph. So I have to ease off the accelerator and slow down. At first I thought this was a transmission problem, but I am guessing it's the same problem that causes my choppy idle.
So I had this acceleration problem on the highway when I was going up a hill. And a weak idle. These problems have been going on for several months now. They were annoying, but didn't seem that serious. Then all of a sudden, on a rainy day, the car was really responding poorly to acceleration at all speeds. I was able to drive around, but I couldn't count on the car responding right away when I hit the gas pedal. And the car would shudder at times. Then, I didn't drive the car for a few days, and then it was dry, no rain, and the car ran better. So I am thinking humidity makes the problem worse.
I have also noticed over the past few months, that the car runs best when I start it up after a few days of not running it. Then if I drive the car a few miles and let it sit for about 2 hours or so, it would idle weakly when I would start it up again. The car's been doing that for several months now, but it wasn't really affecting the drivability or the response of the car when I hit the gas pedal.
Now it's gotten much worse. So, I've already replaced the following items myself to no avail: mass air flow sensor, oxygen sensor, and egr valve. I am guessing the next thing to fix is the pcv valve. But I also think it might be the fuel pump. My first guess though is the pcv valve. What else could it be? And is there any easy way to test to see if the fuel pump is going bad? Or should I just take out the pcv valve and see if it looks bad?
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Question regarding the car failing to accelerate properly that only happens just when I start driving it.
Turn on the car and go, it accelerates fine in first gear. When I switch to second gear it starts shuddering at 20mph and won't go any faster no matter how hard I push the pedal. I switchh to 3rd and its fine until I get to 30mph and then the same thing. I pull over, turn off the car, restart and it's all fine.
I drive a 2004 volkswagen polo 1.2L engine with 100,000 miles or 160k kilometres.
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I have a 2005 f150 4x4 with a 5.4 it was studdering on the highway under light load, i changed the plugs and coils it worked great for a day now working worse and giving a misfire #7, so i swapped the injectors around still misfire #7.
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I have a 2008 Accent. Yesterday the check engine light started to blink and the car started stuttering and the idle was rough. I've changed the air filter, which worked. But, it was recommended that I change the fuel filter. But, when I went to the parts store, they say that this model has a fuel strainer instead. What is that and where is it on my car? Is it easy to replace?
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I have a new to me 2005 F150 SuperCab Lariat 4x4 with 155,000 miles on it. About a week ago I replaced the from passenger hub assembly and half shaft (torn boot). When doing that, I noticed that the IWE actuator was not working right (would not compress evenly). When taking that off, there was a bunch of rust that came out of the vacuum line ports. It started moving freely after cleaning all of that out that I could (I will be replacing it soon). I assembled everything back together and all seemed OK mechanically.
I also scanned the truck and saw the code for a bad IWE solenoid so that is being replaced tonight. I also have not checked the drivers side yet.
So...now that I have done all of that, the truck started occasionally bucking/shuddering when I slow down from highway speed to about 30mph and lightly accelerate again. It does not do it every time though. There is no grinding/whining noises either. Could this be caused by the IWE system somehow? Maybe slowing losing vacuum and having one engage and the other disengaged?
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I have a 2006 Outback XT, which recently started shuddering (like it wants to stall) at idle... At least that's how it started. I noticed it for a few weeks but with no check-engine light, and no error codes cropping up, I kind of ignored it. It then started to stall at idle. Took it to my local guy, who checked all the simple stuff: vacuum hoses, mass air flow sensor, he even removed and cleaned up the throttle body. But the problem persists.
I guess the part that really has me puzzled is the lack of a check-engine light or an error code. With how computer-regulated cars are nowadays, I'm baffled as to how this isn't causing some alarm to go off.
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I have experienced an odd behavior once today & once yesterday, while driving my 2007 BMW X3 3.0. Each time, I was RAPIDLY pulling onto a busy street, from a side street...I accelerated fairly aggressively from the intersection, moving across lanes of oncoming traffic and into the main traffic lanes on the far side. My SUV was driving without any issues up until that point. As i accelerated, the car began to stutter (shudder?), and the 'Service Engine Soon" light came on instantly. The car continued to drive, but struggled to maintain speed/acceleration. I pulled over to a full stop as soon as I could, and turned the engine off. After a couple of minutes, I turned the car back on, and the diagnostic light was no longer on, and the car resumed driving normally as before. Why this sudden acceleration is causing the Service Engine light to come on, and this odd driving behavior?
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2004 Trailblazer 6cy. 2WD - has been experiencing a very rough idle, engine shudders - no matter how long it's been warmed up. Wants to stall off red lights and at very low speeds. Not throwing any lights yet - but the speedo is out ( a cam shift typical problem for this car) so I don't trust the console for lights. Worse when the heat or air is on. Rides fine with more gas/higher speeds. Definitely worse in colder temps but continues even after 40-50 mins of driving. I've heard a number of things, but can't afford to fix them all. I've heard plugs, dirty throttle camshaft, sensors, cam actuator solenoid, etc. All seem to have people who said it fixed and didn't fix the issue. Worried I'm going to stall pulling off a stop and rear end someone any day now. Where do I start!?
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My '03 Grand Marquis "shudders" when I accelerate, especially up hills. It feels like it cuts in and out momentarily, shaking backward and forward. Here is what I have had done, based on mechanics' advice: replace spark plugs, replace fuel filter, clean throttle body, clean mass airflow sensor. It still does it after all this and I am stumped.
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I recently had the following work done or replaced on my 2005 Saab 9-2 X -
Timing belt kit and water pump replacedA/C BeltALT/P/S BeltFront Camshaft seal KitFront Camshaft seal
Everything was fine for a couple of weeks. A few days ago my car started shuddering on the highway and the check engine light came on. I was out of town at the time and took my car to a different service garage. They found that "Cylinder #3 was miss firing and had very low compression, only 20 psi" They suggested I may need to find a used motor to have installed...
I arranged to have the car transported home and dropped of at the shop that performed the original work.
Is it possible that the current problem could have been caused by the previous work being done incorrectly?Or should this possibility of this problem been noticed when the previous work had been done?
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04 with 200k miles, car started stuttering like out of gas, when stopped there was a grinding noise from engine. Took to dealer on trailer, when it was taken to the mechanic all problems went away. Changed oil looking for metal chips, none. Did computer upgrade which was the only code on the check engine light.
Drove car for two days on short trips, four or five times 20 to 30 miles. Ran great. At around 40 miles on next day same problem. No lights or codes of any type. Carried to dealer again, they said they were not sure if it is the engine, transmission, or something in between. I was told they would have to take it apart to find out and the least amount it would cost is $5,000.
The grinding occurs when the engine is running only. when revved up it is louder, at idle the noise changes while sitting in park, louder quieter etc. when driving on electric, sounds perfect. (no sound at all)
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Over the last several months, the frequency with which my 2007 Subaru Outback is "shuddering" when I accelerate from a stop has been increasing. It feels like driving over a cattle grate -- a vibration that lasts for just a few seconds, and occurs in the 35-45 mph range. Now is happening on a daily basis, a couple of times per day. Based on some internet searchers, I concluded this might be a torque converter problem. Took it to the mechanic today and, of course, couldn't reproduce the problem with them present. They replaced the transmission fluid with a synthetic fluid and replaced the transmission filter.
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2006 F150, 4.6 V8 ... My truck was running fine until one morning I was sitting in the truck giving it my customary 30 second morning warm-up and it starting running very rough and quickly threw Check Engine LED.
I hooked up my laptop and got the following error codes: (To assist with future searches, the error codes are P0302, P0303, and P0353)
It seemed to drive fairly well, but low RPM torque causes major shuddering, so I try to keep the revs up to avoid damaging other components. The first step was to replace the spark plugs. They looked to be original and I'm at 140K on the truck, so it's probably time.
I went with Bosch Platinum as the factory plugs were platinum. When replacing the plugs, I moved the coil pack from cylinder 2 to cylinder 3 to determine if the problem would move. After the plug swap, the engine did run noticeably smoother (so the plugs worked overall), but still had the low rpm shudders and the same error codes (after clearing them).
Unfortunately, the error codes still indicate cylinder 2. I guess a misfire could be related to the fuel injector as well, not firing at the right time or not a complete spray, but what else could cause this?
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I have a 2005 Toyota Corolla XRS with a manual transmission which has developed a shudder. When this shudder started, it only occurred when accelerating at highway speeds, or maintaining highway speeds. Now it happens at lower speeds if I give it gas without downshifting, but at reasonable RPM, 3000-5000. I cannot feel the shudder in the steering wheel, but the whole car shakes, and it definitely feels like it is coming from the front end. I have had the tires balanced and rotated. I also have replaced the IACV and MAF due to a CEL. These were replaced after the shudder started. For a few days after the replacement, the CEL returned, but now I am no longer getting it.
There are no visibly obvious issues with the suspension or the drive shafts or CV joints, and the motor mounts likewise look okay. I am not getting a CEL of any kind, and I replaced my plugs 6 months ago, but I pulled them anyway, and they are not fouled. I don’t think the issue is in my suspension, steering, or wheels because I cannot feel it in the steering wheel. I don’t think my half shafts are warped because the shudder happens at varying speeds, and the instant I let off of the gas, it stops. Though this doesn’t rule them out completely, there is no clicking from the CV joints. When I brake, the car slows smoothly, so the rotors are fine. I have run injector cleaner a couple of times, and octane boost once. These both seemed to solve the issue, but did not make it stop, and it has gotten worse lately. My wife did put low-octane gas in the car once, but it was weeks ago.
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I have a 2006 F150 4x4 5.4. For a long time it idled poorly and would take 2 trys to start. Today it started shuddering and the engine light came on. The engine light went off but it still runs rough and smells of gas from the exhaust. It is not very drivable and I can't afford to take it in. I have lots of mechanical experience but not with this electronic junk and need diagnosing the problem. I have a code tester and this is what it said.
P0301 Cyl 1 Miss
P0304 Cyl 4 Miss
P0300 Random Multiple Misfire Detected
P2196 O2 Sensor Signal
Biased/ Stuck Rich
Bank 1 Sensor 1
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I have a 2000 f150 5.4 liter engine. I traveled about a month ago and while on the highway it started "bouncing/shuttering" really bad. I pulled off and while still in drive but completely stopped it was still bouncing but when in park it stopped. I took in into the Ford dealership and they said that cylinder 5 was misfiring and it was losing pressure fast. Then it stopped acting up completely and they couldn't find anything wrong with it.
Well about a week ago it started bouncing again on city roads (no highway). The check engine light came on and Orielys said it was a cylinder 5 misfire. Also, under the oil cap and in the tube where you would put the oil in has a yellow thick substance on it. I know that it is water in the oil. Also, there is a black "gunk" not far from where you would put the oil in. Could these problems be connected?
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I’m facing what might be a major issue with my 2007 Prius, 80k miles, very well cared for with no major issues or accidents. The problem started a few days ago, when I drove my car for the first time in a week, so it had been sitting for awhile. This was after a month-long cold spell in which temps were often close to 0, with lots of snow, and I keep my car outside, which means many days of scraping ice and snow off the car with it running (along with the defroster and heat). I only work part-time, and the car often sits for a few days or longer at a time without being driven.
The problem is this: I was on my way to work a few miles away and was stopped at a red light, and the car all of a sudden “shuddered” rather violently, with what sounded like the engine revving up, then switching back to silent mode, then revving up again, and so on. It freaked me out, but the light turned green and the car drove normally to my destination. Then, on my way home an hour later, a bunch of warning lights showed up: master warning, VSC, check engine, brake system, as well as hybrid system light on the center screen (car with ! through it). I pulled over, turned off the car, waited a bit, turned it back on, all the same lights were on. Drove it home with no problems. Turned it on the next day, same lights.
I decided to drive the car around for a bit to try and charge up the battery, in case that was the issue after all the cold weather and sitting around not being driven regularly. After driving it around, turning it off, then turning it back on, the brake system and VSC lights disappeared, but the rest remained. I continued driving the car for another day, and it did that same strong shuddering thing with weird engine noises while at one red light, but drove normally otherwise.
I then researched a bit more and found out how to check the health of the battery myself by holding down the display button, turning lights on and off three times, etc. The three voltage readings were all within the proper range. When I turned the car back on after completing the battery check, all of the warning lights were gone. I figured the issue had been the battery after all and that driving the car around had brought it back up to normal voltage, with the battery check resetting the system. BUT today the car did the same strong shuddering with weird engine noises while stopped at a red light. I continued driving and made it home just fine, without the issue occurring again, but this is the third time it’s done this in a week, and I’m a little freaked out by it.
Two notes:
*A little over a year ago I replaced the original battery (which died) with an Optima yellow top battery made for the Prius.
*Several weeks ago, after a major snow/ice storm, I was driving home from work when I went over either a deep pothole or hard ice formation, and the impact was really loud and scary—I actually screamed. But the car continued driving normally all the way home, and I examined the wheel area and surrounding parts with a flashlight and nothing seemed out of place. I drove the car a bunch of times in the following weeks with no issues, so this incident is probably unrelated to the problem I’m experiencing now, but I though it worthwhile to mention.
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For the past few months I've been hearing a loud fan-like buzzing noise coming from the passenger side of the front of the car. I don't know that much about cars, but it almost sounds like the engine is racing or something is spinning too fast. It has gotten increasingly worse, and seems especially loud at high speeds on the highway.
It is not the heating/cooling fan - the noise is present when the heating/cooling system is turned off.
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I have a 4 cylinder 2009 Sonata with an automatic transmission and it does not accelerate smoothly when starting out from idle. A slight touch on the accelerator pedal causes the motor to accelerate hard as though the pedal was pushed down a lot further than "a slight touch". Is this normal or should this car accelerate smoothly? I am wondering if there is a common problem with either the accelerator pedal sensor or maybe with the throttle servo.
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Ever since I've had the car, I've noticed after the gas engine kicks on, it runs a little rough for maybe 10-15 seconds. Only when it's sat for a while, hours or overnight. Replacing the plugs didn't work. Now, its not bad, not really a problem, but I'm wondering if the injectors might need cleaning.
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