Prius (2004-09) :: 2007 - Gurgle Noise At Start Up After P1121 Fix
May 14, 2014
I've got my "P1121" fix (replaced coolant control valve) recently and after about a week or so of driving (about 500 miles) I started to hear a gurgling sound at start up and sometimes when I turn the car off. I also noticed that pretty good amount of coolant (front side) was lost over the that same period of time (it wasn't losing coolant before for good 2k+ miles). I instantly filled the coolant and started the car. No gurgling then. But the gurgling came back after about 3 hours when I started it again. Car is not giving me any codes though.
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I took my car in for an oil change and the mechanic said I needed to have my water valve replaced. Based on everything I've read, this is too much. I said I'd have it done later as I had no real symptoms. Well, today I'm on the road and I get the check engine light to come on, pull into an AutoZone and the reading is a P1121 code. No other codes.
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Two weeks ago my CEL came on and the code was P1121. I checked the coolant level and everything seemed fine, so I figured I'd take it in soon.
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I have a 2004 toyota Prius with 185k miles on it and recently got the CEL for P1121. I checked both coolants and turns out that the engine coolant was completely out. I immediately filled it up and the CEL went off for a couple days. It has come back and is on constantly, I checked the coolant and the coolant is at the correct level.
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2005 Prius, 105K miles when the check engine light came on.
Scanner report: P1121 accelerator pedal position sensor range/performance problem.
Fix: Coolant flow control valve. (Even though it was still working)
Part number: 16670-21010
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I took my 2009 Prius in to have the check engine light read and they came up with P1121 and recommended I have the coolant flow control valve replaced. I bought my prius used and noted that in the service history, the valve was replaced under warranty in Feb. of 2013, about 40,000 miles ago. I'm going to have the valve replaced, the prius and I are embarking on a 1500 mile journey in a week or so and I'd rather not take the risk of not replacing it.
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What is the to cause to check engine light go off. I will take my car to auto zone tomorrow morning to hopefully get a code and see if I can fix it myself... if not, then I am going to have to go to the dealership.
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The P1116 and P1121 codes have shown up on my 2009 Gen II Prius about a month ago. The CEL is intermittent - it will disappear on its own within a few drive cycles to a week, only to come back again. I'm not sure what to do next - should I go ahead and replace the three-way coolant valve or water pump or both?
Of note I also hear a "push-pull" noise from the engine compartment. Sometimes it persists through an entire drive (my trips are usually short, under 30 minutes) or sometimes it will only happen upon a cold start then stop after a few minutes of driving. What the noise indicates? It sure sounds like some sort of valve or piston opening and closing. It's faint so I've "enhanced" it to make it louder.
Apparently I can't upload .wav's here, so I placed it on dropbox. And since I only have one post, I can't directly link to it. So I will post three replies in order to paste in the link.
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The narrative: The check engine light came on and the DTC reads P1121, which indicated trouble with the coolant control valve. I cleared the code several times and it reappeared. It has been >100F every day here in OK. Investigating under the hood I noticed the engine coolant overflow tank was empty. Opening the radiator cap showed no visible coolant in the tube! OK, I have not seen any leaks and the car has had dealer service 3K ago. I filled the radiator and overflow w/ SLLC (Toyota pink). The DTC has not reappeared and it has been about a week.
My comments/questions: The car is getting old and I can accept a little maintenance. 2004 Prius @96k...
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I have a 2006 prius whose check engine light just came on 1 hour ago. I had it diagnosed and it is giving me the p1121 code, or the coolant flow control valve. I checked the coolant level and it was very low. I added fluid, but the CEL is still on. I have to make an 11 hour trip tomorrow.
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So I received the P1121 and took it to the dealer. They told me I also had a P3000. I called another dealer and they said the P3000 could be caused by the P1121 not giving it enough coolant. So I brought it back to the house, bought the valve listed in the forums, and I spent all day changing that + the coolant. I drained the coolant and between the reservoir and the radiator cap itself I refilled about 4 QT, and I saw that my inverter coolant was just below the low line, so I filled it up to the full line. Afterwards, I tried to get the coolant to flow, and it seems like I won't flow. The check engine light immediately came back on and the car said, "Problem." So I immediately shut it off and let it set for a few days. How do I get it so that the coolant starts flowing again. I haven't seen any of the levels move whatsoever on the radiator.
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About once a week my check engine light comes on. The code is P1121, which is about coolant valve sticking. In about one or one and a half days it times out and i dont get the warning light for another week or so. Do you think I should have something done right away or wait and see what happens?
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I have a 2007 Prius that had a rotational noise on acceleration. I pinpointed the noise to the transmission area and suspected something was wrong with the electric motor. I took it to a local transmission shop and they disassembled the transmission to replace a bearing.
After repairs, they called me and informed me that the hybrid battery needed to be replaced. I've been driving the car for about a week with the noise and had no indication of a battery problem, or any other problem.
I had them tow the car back to my shop. The hybrid battery was discharged. The battery blocks were all between 10 and 12 volts. The vehicle would move slowly, but the ICE wouldn't start up to charge the battery. It had one DTC for hybrid battery malfunction.
I removed the battery from my own Prius and installed it in the car. The ICE fired up right away and shut off soon after, which would be completely normal in my car. But the engine never started again. I drove a short distance all on electric. The battery bars depleted quickly. Regen braking was not operating. There was a shudder every so often on acceleration. I'm not sure if it's in the transmission or the ICE is attempting to start? There are no DTCs so far.
The screen indicating where the power is going indicates that the engine is ON and delivering power even when it clearly is not. Not sure where to go with this one. It seems really odd that the ICE started once and won't start up. I tried disconnecting the battery and starting over, but the ICE still does not start up. I looked around the transmission for something disconnected, but found nothing.
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On my 05 Prius (65K miles) I recently had my local Toyota dealer replace both the inverter water pump (for free per recall) and main engine water pump (~$500 based on their recommendation because of some coolant leakage). 1 week later, I got the P1121 code coming off and on intermittently.
My dealer says that the work they did is not related to P1121.
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Just last week I bought a 2007 prius from a local dealership in Houston. The check engine light recently turned on and had it checked out by an auto parts store. The codes they read were the p1116 and p1121 (issues with the coolant valve). I know it would cost much to replace the valve, and I am not wanting to pay that much, especially since i just bought the car. I'd also be willing to fix it myself if i had some guide or step by step instructions...
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i have a 2005 Toyota Prius that the air conditioner wont work in. it has Freon in it the compressor wont kick so I did some research and my cooling fans aren't kicking on so I did a by pass test and the cooling fans motor is good they just wont kick on. I just replaced my 2 cooling fan relays and they still wont kick on. the check engine light was on in the car when I got it. it throws the code P1121 coolant valve control. I got the part just got to get it put on. Could this part stop my cooling fans from kicking on or my ac compressor from coming on.
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Code says P1121 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor Range/Performance Problem. I heard that was wrong and its really coolant control valve? The battery drains fast and the can runs like crap. Would this code be doing that to the car?
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So I drive a 2008 and a couple months ago I started getting the Check Engine Light. Codes P1121 & P1116. Found out it was most likely related to a faulty Coolant Control Valve or Electric Water Pump. Since the pump was just recently changed I went ahead and got the valve changed.
The light is still coming and going but now when I go on the expressway that red triangle with the exclamation pops on with a little beep. Only pops on for a couple seconds and keeps coming back until I drive a bit slower.
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The check engine light on my '05 Prius has gone on and off a couple of times and is giving me a P1121 code, which I found out means "Coolant Flow Control Valve Position Sensor Stuck". Does this have anything to do with the hybrid electric coolant pump that was replaced under recall a while back?
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My check engine light was throwing the code P1121 for the coolant flow valve. Toyota replaced it under a warranty enhancement (I have 134k on it), and since then my mpgs have gone from 46 to 50.
My AC is working much better now, too. My theory is that the valve can be in a semi-failure mode for a long time before throwing a code. Now that My coolant is flowing the way that it should, heat is being dissipated more efficiently.
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It's been a long week for me and my 2007 Prius. Brought it to the dealer after receiving my first ever CEL. I have 222,000 miles on the vehicle. The a/c was also blowing warm when the CEL came on. They checked that and told me that the compressor was "breaking up." Then they call me back to tell me that my 12V battery died. They asked me if I had problems with starting the vehicle. I said never. Never had any issues with the car in 222,000 miles.
Well, told them to replace the battery (no choice) and the car is 5.5 years old in Florida heat so it was ready to die. Very suspicious that it died while they had the vehicle, but what can I say. Told them to not repair the coolant flow valve or the a/c until I could investigate further on my own. CEL is now off. The a/c is blowing cool again.
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