Prius (2004-09) :: Am2 Keeps Blowing - ICP Is Disconnected - System Malfunction
Jul 19, 2015
Customer's car died about 2 hours from me. What this could be? It is at a shop now, and I walked them through how to test the main fusable link in the engine bay, and they said it was good. They also checked the 12v battery and that tested good. Here is what happened.
The customer was driving, then he said the triangle of the death and check engine light came on. Then, he kept driving for a little while and then all the sudden everything went dark and he coasted to the shoulder. The car hasn't had the inverter coolant pump recall done, so I am leaning towards that. The car's dome lights come on, the key can unlock and lock the car, but if you slide the key in and press the power button, nothing happens. What on earth would cause that?
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Problem and background: for PRIUS 2004 Gen 2 , 157000 km, not getting READY to drive.
1.Warning signals on Power ON, red triangle, yellow color engine, brake, ABS, skidding. Also the PARKING BRAKE RED signal (by the side of seat belt warning signal), does not disappear even if I release the foot brake.
2. Gear can move to N and parking P only, can't move to Drive D or Reverse R. No READY symbol,
3. I left the car in that location in open for a month, during heavy rain. But after coming back , the car had no issue and I was driving for 4 days before this issue started.
what I have tried:
1.Have removed the 12 Volt battery terminals and connected back, just to see if the errors disappear. No change. But did not check the battery voltage or suspect it . disconnected and connected the HV service plug.(orange color lever behind rear passenger seat).
2. Have been switching ON and off the car for 1 full day, First day the local Toyota service (non-prius), came to connect to OBD late evening, he switched on the interior lights and left doors open, within 10-15 minutes the lights started dimming. Before he could pull the information, all shutdown and 12V battery down. his measurement at battery without removing any terminal showed 3.6V.
3. The second day took the battery out and charged at local battery service guy for 6 hrs, he say's charged at 3A, the indicator showed green, that means fully charged, his measurement with no load 12V. After connecting to the car myself, checked the voltage at display by putting to diagnostic mode, showed 12 volts (only with display on) with headlight on and pressing brake drops to 11.6volt. IS THAT OK?
4. The third day got the new battery and replaced, showed the same voltage 12/11.6v, but I can't be 100% sure if that is a brand new battery, the box was open, and since the car didn't start, the battery sales person has taken back the new battery in the same box. I connected back the old battery, it was holding the same voltage. SHOULD I still SUSPECT BATTERY?
5. I can make the READY indication blink twice, if I press hard the brake pedal and hold the POWER button few seconds, during this time I can hear CLICKING NOISE behind at HV BATTERY SERVICE PLUG grip? does that say something?
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I have a 2004 Prius with 80k miles. Always has been a workhorse. Recently had a bad cell in the HV battery. Battery rebuilt with new cell and now works great.
Now it runs about 20 miles and then displays dash lights of red triangle and small exclamation (brake?) and VSC.
I took it to Advance Auto and their scanner reads C1310 'Malfunction in HV system'.
I actually replaced the entire HV battery again with the battery from my friend's car, and the 12V battery too, but no luck. Same error.
If i disconnect the 12v battery for a while, it will clear the code and the car runs fine for about 20 miles and then dash lights come on again.
Car runs perfectly, over 50mpg even with the dash lit up. What that code is?
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I have a 2008 Prius with 106,000+ miles on it. It was running fine till 2 days ago, I didn't start it yesterday and today when i went to start it, I get the Hybrid System Malfunction light, along with check engine, the red triangle and TPMS light. The gas engine tries to start up, then 1 second later makes a grinding noise and turns off.
I am in Toronto and its cold, but not THAT cold yet. So I am doubtful its temperature related. I checked the fluids and they all seem to be sufficient (engine oil, radiator fluid, power steering fluid). I didn't notice any leaks under the vehicle either.
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I have a 2006 prius I got used and in good condition about 3-4 years ago. I never had any problems until a cop pulled me over and it turned out my parents had decided not to notify me they hadn't renewed my registration and my insurance they've been paying had ran out. I've since learned my lesson on keeping up with the dates.
I "luckily" got to go home with just some tickets. It sat about 2-3 months until I could get the money to line everything out. I ran it at least once a week but apparently that wasn't enough? Now that everything's up to date I started driving it and the yellow circle with the (!) in it is on. The Master system light, the check malfunction light, and the hybrid system light is on.
It seems like it applies the brake when I'm driving constantly now. It stalls when I first try to speed up. And the fan? on the passenger side of the back seat is always running for some reason. I tested my battery volt and it's at 9.2.
I took it to an auto shop today in town. I live in WV in the backwoods. And they wouldn't hook it up to check for codes and referred me to a dealer about 30 min. away... I've never had any problems with this car before.
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A few weeks ago I took my 2004 Prius into the dealer to get an AC diagnostics. At that time it was hardly working just blowing warm air. It did seem to be a bit colder tho when the car was in motion. With that visit I was told that there is a leak in my AC system and they recharged it and added a dye, to determine where the leak was coming from. I was told to use the AC as much as possible from then till my follow up appointment.
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Took my '08 F450 super duty into a reputable snow plow dealership and had them install a brand new plow on my truck. They phoned me this morning to say that the truck's security system does not recognize the key, possibly caused by the fact that they had to disconnect the battery during the plow install. So now my truck is stuck at their shop ! Just hoping I don't have to get it towed to a Ford dealership.
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I took my 2016 Prius 3 through a brushless car wash this afternoon, and about halfway through, the warning light came on and the car displayed "Hybrid System Malfunction // Visit Your Dealer". The car seemed to drive normally from there back to home, so the system is evidently still working - just getting the message on the screen every few seconds.
Given that it happened while I was in the car wash, I'm wondering if it's just that some water got under the hood and tripped a sensor or something. The car was not idling at the time.
I had my 5K service appointment scheduled for tomorrow anyway, but now the dealer wants to have the car there all day. They're giving me a loaner, so that's nice. Still, a little concerning that this is happening so soon after I bought the thing.
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C1241 is low voltage warning and C1223 is an ABS control system malfunction.
Are or could these be related? Where should I start to troubleshoot the issue?
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I believe my 2004 Ford Explorer has a blend door problem in the heating system. It won't stay open and makes a clicking sound constantly, thus providing no heat! In past discussions I found one that says this is a major fix. I can't afford to take it to a dealer. My brother is an "old style" mechanic who can work on older (50's,60's,70's)cars and is not familiar with new technology or electronics. Could a person do this job easily or should I sell it and get a newer car?
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This morning, during a routine drive to work in my 2007 Toyota Prius, my instrument panel lit up with the brake light and ABS light. The car braked normally, although when I tested the anti-lock brakes in a parking lot, the car slid and the ABS did not engage. I brought it to a shop - they ran a diagnostic and came up with a Malfunction of the Hydraulic System - right rear. They said I need to take it to a dealer for repairs. This car has cost me a lot in repairs over the last year...and with 170,000 miles, I'm not willing to put in a lot more.
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My 2006 F150 was purchased by me in early 2009 with about 28,000 miles on it. It's an XLT crew cab 4X4 with the 5.4. Stock except for a leveling kit and an aftermarket head unit. It currently has about 59,000 miles and has been babied since I purchased it. About 3 years ago I started noting some issues:
A. Oil pressure dummy gauge is all over the place. Some times it will show no oil pressure. Other times it is all the way to the highest mark. Other times the needle has gone 180 degrees past where normal is and is actualy pointing straight down towards the floor.
B. Recently my alternator dummy gauge has started doing the same thing as my oil pressure gauge.
C. The backlight behind my odometer works intermittently, but mostly not at all.
D. My dome light will flicker when first turned on. It doesn't matter which door is opened or if the override switch it turned on. It takes several seconds to come on and will flicker like there is a poor connection somewhere, but stays on once its on.
E. Blower fan will occasionally stop blowing. Once the climate control switch is turned to off, then back to on it resumes working. This doesn't happen often, but does occasionally.
Fortunately, the truck has not left me stranded and I want to keep it that way. We are getting ready to sale my wife's Toyota and this will become her daily driver. I want to take care of any issues before she starts driving it. Are these all separate issues or is there one common issue which could be causing them all?
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Have an early 2004 US Phaeton with the smaller sound system. Everything works normally on the system, but when putting some commercial CD's into the player can yield some really nasty clipping (clicking on drum-beats or other high-frequency sound) on the loudest sections. The clipping only occurs on the loudest sections, irrespective of how high the volume control is, and it only occurs when listening to the CD.
This is either a defect in the digital/analog converter in my particular unit, or it's a design defect with the whole series. For techies, the highest bit (#15) in the D/A is feeding an overload signal into the analog path of both channels. This symptom also could occur on CD's you burn yourself if you tend to record your CD's really loud (right up to the limit of CD dynamic range).
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On my way home from work tonight, the master warning light and the check engine (malfunction indicator lamp) appeared on the dashboard, and the hybrid system warning light has popped up on the multi-informational display.
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My wife's 04 GX deflates sometimes when we park it, you can clearly hear a loud "whooshing" noise occasionally when we park it in our garage. The rear then goes to the lowest possible setting, it looks odd laying that low. Because it's not my car, I don't know if it always did that, but it seems "new" to me.
The deflation sound is coming from the rear mounted compressor on the rear driver side, I went under the car to investigate. It also appears that the air bags themselves aren't leaking, I raised the car to the highest setting, and it stayed there without the compressor kicking on or any leaking noise.
My guess is maybe the sensors need to be replaced, the thing is, I don't want to "shotgun" parts at a problem and spend $500 or so dollars on new sensors to experiment. How do I know the rear is behaving correctly?
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Alternator on my 2006 GX failed, caused battery to discharge and vehicle stopped. Alternator was replaced, battery (was new) is testing fine. All electronics and indicator lights normal except Nav system. Display reads insert proper disc. I have ejected and reloaded disc multiple times, no change. Disc is OEM, one release back.
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Started this winter as a misfire on random cylinders. I replaced all apart plugs and verified the gap. Replaced all the coils. Still occurred during the cold months. Once it warmed up it went away for a short while. The only codes present at the time were random misfire codes. Took it to a shop and they told me the injector was bad on cyl 1. Today I replaced the injectors with a matched set of 4 matched flow Denzo remand. Ran it on the TIS tech tool and was given a barrage of codes. I can unplug #1 coil and it will smooth out and stall within 90 seconds. Engine runs rough. Intake was just done as well. From Toyota TIS
P3191 – engine didnt start
P3000 - Battery Control System
P3101 – engine system malfunction
P3190 – poor engine power
P1300 - ignition circuit malfunction #1
P0303
P0302
P0301
P0300
c1259 - ABS error code meaning problem with regenerative braking. Probably caused by me forcing the car to recharge the HV while misfiring. HV battery was getting dangerously low from sitting for the last 6 months.
b0116 – LH airbag circut
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Service is coming. I have road service reimbursement. Do I have to disconnect ground cable if jumping it to start and not recharging it? The service guy said they would hook up a charge box to it but didn't need to take off the ground cable. I should make sure he switched the power of the box off when connecting and disconnecting the cables, right?
Does it work to leave it idling or do I have to drive it and for how long? Manual shows a way to jump from another vehicle, but it needs another car with a 12V battery. Most cars have a 12V battery though don't they, or are they the wrong type and have to have another hybrid car to jump from. Do you use regular cables to do this?
What is reverse polarity and what did they do to the car that damaged the control system?
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2004 Pontiac Grand Am GT, 3.4L V6...It only starts if the battery has been disconnected for at least an hour and then is immediately reconnected prior to use. Once the block is hot, however, it starts flawlessly and repeatedly every time. When the block cools, it won't start again unless I disconnect the battery and wait an hour. I did a bunch of tests without first disconnecting the battery: The fuel bar is pressurizing properly, the crankshaft position sensor works, the ignition control module has power, the plugs and wires are in good condition and have the right resistance. The coils are fine.
I did an OBD-II scan as well, no codes. However, unless I go through the disconnect-wait-reconnect procedure, there appears to be only a weak spark. I don't think it's the ignition security feature. There's no security light, performing a security reset does not fix anything, and the car starts repeatedly and reliably as long as the block is hot. I was wondering if it might be a failing sensor that has a thermal dependence? Should I look at the powertrain control module? The ignition control module?
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However, selecting Mode setting to the floor on the climate control build (as I read) does not seem to turn off the AC from running to off with outside air only. Also, the OFF button does stop everything but once the fan speed is turned up its cold air blowing.
I read through the entire section in the owners manual and there is nothing mentioning it will run if AC is not selected nor any other over ride procedure. I am thinking this is a unique SF Limited issue and solutions for other models don't hold true for me. With the temperature much hotter its not difficult to feel the difference blowing out the vents.
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I have a Gen 1 that won't start after sitting. ECU considers the pack disconnected. 12v brand new.
What is the easiest way to get it going without removing the pack?
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