Yesterday the check engine light came on in my 2006 Prius. I took it to the dealer, and they said that the camshaft gear and valve cover need to be replaced. Specifically, the diagnostic report says "P0011. Camshaft position A timing over. Advanced or system performance bank 1. Pin point check LED to CUV gear not switching."
View 9 RepliesI know this isn't the usual ticking of the injectors and I believe it's to fast to be a lifter tapping. I believe it's the camshaft chain hitting against the valve cover. I took the valve cover off and the chain is still tensioned tightly so it makes me wonder what this could be..
View 1 RepliesI have a 98 F-150 which has a loud knocking at the passenger side valve cover. I am not a mechanic but thought it was a rocker arm knocking. I dropped some oil from the oil pan and did not see and metal shavings. I added some mystery oil but the knocking continued.Loaded the truck on a trailer and hauled to a mechanic to check for the problem. He said the oil ports are clogged and oil can not get to the cam shaft and the cam shaft bearings are probably causing the knocking. He said there is no way to fix this problem and I will have to replace the motor.
I called another mechanic and described what the other mechanic described. The 2nd mechanic said it would require a complete tear down of the motor and would be cheaper to replace the motor. I recently bought this truck just to use for hunting and around town since it already has 198k miles on it.
Is there any way to clean the gunk from the oil ports? The truck will still run but just has the loud knocking so I don't let it run for more that a couple minutes. I have been reading many opinions for sludge blocking the oil passages and am considering removing the valve cover gasket and filling with diesel and let sit for 24 hours then repeat then put in fresh oil and filter. Maybe this will clean the blocked passages.
I had the PCV valve replaced around 60K, then at the next service they wanted to do it again (not reading the records that they had already done it). Then at 80K they wanted to do it again, I declined. Today it was in for 85K service and they said "the PCV valve is dirty and needs to be replaced." The advisor told me after the initial replacement at 60K the interval is 20-25K miles.
View 10 RepliesSo I drive a 2008 and a couple months ago I started getting the Check Engine Light. Codes P1121 & P1116. Found out it was most likely related to a faulty Coolant Control Valve or Electric Water Pump. Since the pump was just recently changed I went ahead and got the valve changed.
The light is still coming and going but now when I go on the expressway that red triangle with the exclamation pops on with a little beep. Only pops on for a couple seconds and keeps coming back until I drive a bit slower.
5.4L 3v engine: The PCV is located in the drivers side valve cover. Tried to pull it out with no success and came to the conclusion that maybe it's threaded and a nut locks it in from the underside of the valve cover. Can this thing be replaced without taking off the valve cover?
View 4 RepliesI've got a 2004 Mazda 6 with the 3.0L V6 & a 5-speed, with about 128k miles.
The car runs fine, but was leaking oil onto the exhaust manifold and so I recently had the valve cover gaskets replaced. the mechanic could not get replacement gaskets from Mazda, and so changed the valve covers themselves also, and consequently needed to replace a couple of hoses that connect to the valve covers.
Since the repair, the car drives fine - acceleration seems normal, I don't notice any performance issues. The CEL is NOT lit.
1) When the car is in neutral, but rolling, the idle consistently bounces back and forth precisely between 1250 & 1500 rpm. This occurs always, and happens whether the gearshift is in neutral or the clutch is depressed. With the radio off I can hear the engine surging when this is going on. As soon as the car comes to a complete stop, the idle immediately drops to the a rock-steady position just below 1000 rpm, as it always has.
2) I assume related to the above, but since the repair my gas mileage has dropped from its usual 18-19mpg to 15.7-15.9mpg as recorded at two fill-ups, and my current tankful is looking to return equally low mileage.
I brought the car back to the shop and the mechanic took the car out for a drive with me, with his computer hooked up while we drove. He found nothing wrong, nothing out of whack, and saw no evidence of any air leaks.
1) Seems strange to me that the valve cover gasket couldn't be obtained, and new valve covers were needed. I want to believe the garage is being straight with me. Is this really plausible?
2) What could cause the idle to behave this way? I understand what a valve cover does (in my earlier years I changed the cylinder head on my old Saturn) and can't figure out how or why changing the valve covers would have an effect like this.
That leads me to conclude this is more likely caused by the new, slightly different hoses attached to the valve cover, but I don't know exactly what those hoses do or why they connect to the valve covers, so I'm stuck here.
My wife has a 2004 escape v6 (3.0L). The valve cover seal was leaking so I decided, why not change the plugs since I'm already going to have the intake manifold off.
I got down there, replaced the seal (just the front side, didn't want to disassemble something that wasn't broke) and then replaced all 6 plugs and boots (with springs). Fired it up and everything seemed fine. She went to drive to work and the CEL started to flash. I read the code and there were 4 (Don't remember exactly what they were), but it was a combination of things resulting from a misfire in cylinder 4. Since it was one of the front ones. I just pulled the plugged and replaced it hoping I had gotten a dud from the factory. Nope, still doing it.
I didn't take off the fuel lines, just the air intake on the top. I did not change the coils, but everything was running fine before I changed plugs so logic would dictate it is something I did. Only seems to misfire at higher speeds. Also, her battery light randomly comes on, but the battery and alternator test good. This has been happening a while.
I have an oil leak on a 04 f250 6.0 stock. It has 292000 miles on her. It started as a few drips on the pavement about the size of a quarter and now has escalated to a steady trickle. It's on the driver's side in front of engine running down the corner of the block and dripping off the oil pan. I pulled intake plenum and everything and I thought it was coming out of the valve cover but now it looks like its just under the valve cover. It looks like its coming out of the front corner of the head. Its wet there and looks wet around the glow plugs. I cant run it now as I've drained the oil and coolant. I don't have a gauge or anything and its plain stock.
View 14 RepliesIs it dangerous to the car to drive if the wire connection is broken to the camshaft timing oil control valve? It seems to run fine.
View 2 RepliesI purchased a build Dec 05 1.3l Yaris several months ago. I recently started to get a check engine light, so I did a scan of the computer and it returned a P0012 error. Though multiple searches, I learned that this is likely due to the Camshaft Timing Control Valve Assembly or possibly the OCV filter.
Further searches haven't been able to reveal which parts I need to purchase to replace these items. I can only find details for the 1.5l engine.
The engine is: 2nz-fe, model: ncp90r-agmrkq
1. I don't even know where these parts are located on the car?
2. What part numbers do I need to purchase to replace?
I had it checked out at the dealer and they called it a "weep" so they went on to tell me that VW probably wont approve warranty work for it. I pushed for them to take pictures and send it in anyway.
Now assuming they won't do it, I have been looking for a DIY or a technical order on the job but I can't find anything.
My wife was complaining about a metallic scraping noise that was coming from the driver side front wheel. I listened to it and couldn't determine what it was or see any evidence of something loose. I took off the wheel and had a look at the components and after 160K miles, it looked like the pads could use replacing. It didn't seem like that was the root of the sound, but it looked like they needed to be done.
I got the parts for both sides and replaced the left without issue, but when I got to the right side, I found the source of the noise: a pebble between the rotor and dust shield. I continued on with the brake replacement and the caliper piston was stuck. Tried a couple of things to free it and blew out the piston.
Just found valve cover of my Tiguan is leaking out oil this morning. Will go to dealer tmr for gasket replacement. My car is just over 50k miles. What happened to VW's car quality control???
View 5 RepliesI want to have my oil cap sit close to the valve cover rather then have that long funnel.
I want to go from this:
To this:
Haven't had the engine cover off for about 25k now (cleaned it up under there last time I changed plugs.) Took it off today and noticed it's a little oily on all four sides around the valve cover.
Pretty sure I can account for the oil that's near the filler cap... I don't recall spilling enough that would completely go around the entire valve cover though...
But how did it end up so high on top of the valve cover on the corners? It's even a little wet looking on the back if you look hard enough..
I only have 4600 miles left of the 10/100 warranty so I'm glad I caught this and hope the dealer can do something about it... or are they going to tell me this a "normal" amount of seepage? I haven't owned a vehicle with plastic valve covers before so I don't quite know what to expect.
So with about 70,000 km on my 3.3 V6 I'm noticing some oil seepage from the valve cover gasket. It's not enough to budge the oil level on the dipstick, and frankly not the sort of thing I would bother having fixed (especially with a leased vehicle). The only thing bugging me is that the alternator is getting pretty grimy and dirty from it, and I'm wondering how much it can take.
View 12 RepliesI was loosening the bolt that holds down the number one spark plug wire when it just spun off leaving less than half the bolt in the valve cover. I tried using the grabbit extractor but that did not work.
View 8 Replieswhen replacing valve cover gasket, using the cork based one. Do you use any gasket sealant or any kind of silicone or just put it in by its self.
View 5 Repliesso I have a 2azfe engine
So there's an oil leak coming from the valve cover gasket (just purchased vehicle dirt cheap with 220k)
found this
Notice all the oil sitting on top of the exhaust mani gasket
In the left(lower) part of the picture it appears to be scraped.
the gasket appears to be newer, I did NOT use a screw driver to remove the valve cover, which is what this appears to have been done..
Can this be sanded down then filled with jb weld, and then regasketed?
So I'll be taking on a project to replace the valve cover gasket on my 2002 Camry V6. There's a bit of leakage through the gasket. And while I'm at it, I'll replace the spark plugs as well. I'm looking for a write up on this project. did a lot of searching but couldn't find anything.
View 14 Replies