Prius (2004-09) :: Cruise Control Engaged And Car Accelerated When Brakes Applied
Dec 5, 2011
My 2005 Toyota Prius gave me confidence. Here's what happened:
I was driving on the Interstate with the cruise control set at 70 mph. Seeing traffic stopped ahead, I applied the brakes for a moment to slow, then released the brake to coast. Much to my surprise, the cruise control was still engaged and the car accelerated. I applied the brakes again, manually turned off the cruise control, then was able to coast. I drove for another half-hour without incident until the following afternoon when I drove again, experiencing a much more serious problem.
I had just turned left, and was straightening the wheels when I heard, and felt, a loud "snap" in the steering wheel, immediately upon which I knew the steering wheel was disconnected and I could no longer steer the car. Very, very fortunately, and only because I was already nearly stopped, I was able to stop the vehicle without incident.
However, I immediately recognized that, had this happened in almost any other scenario than being nearly parked, the outcome would have been markedly different. The steering wheel is completely loose, not controlling anything, and all the many steering wheel controls are equally disconnected, including the driver's air bag (SRS), something that I would have needed, but wouldn't have worked, had I crashed into oncoming traffic or an Interstate median.
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The 12v battery is 3 1/2 years old.
I rebuilt the HV battery in May 2015. I replaced 3 modules and took the pack through 3 charge/discharge cycles using Hybrid Automotive grid charger and simple discharger. I also cleaned the cooling fan.
All was fine for a month or so. Then I got the trouble lights but the obdlink I had wouldn't show the codes. I noticed a decrease in mileage and a slight hesitation upon acceleration from a stop.
I finally got the mini vci and a win xp laptop to find the codes:
P3000
P0A82
C1310
After maybe a week or so, the ICE wouldn't start and, being busy, I parked it for a while. About a month later, I pulled codes:
P0AA6 with detail codes 526 and 613
P3000 with detail code 123
P0A82 with no detail codes but it indicates "hybrid battery pack cooling fan 1 performance/stuck off.
I connected the grid charger and the HV fan engaged, as it should. I cleared codes and took a drive, while monitoring with Techstream. I watched the fan modes climb to 6, during driving and idling, over about a half hour period. Not sure if this means anything, but I've read that people can hear the fan from the driver's seat when it's running at 3 or 4- I forget which. Well, at 3, or maybe 4, I couldn't hear it. Even standing at the rear door, with my ear against the vent. Though, there was ICE and parking lot noise to contend with. Once it got to 6, I could hear it easily.
Battery health, at that time: With fan at 6, temp of batt tb1 through tb3 was 51.6 c, 56.5 c, 50.4 c.
Battery blocks voltage ranged from 16.05 to 16.15. Internal resistance ranged from .024 to .026 ohms.
Out of necessity, I've been driving this car again, for months now. The lights came back and the codes were still P3000 with detail code 123, P0A82 with the addition of C1310. I don't see a detail code in the same place but there is a field that says "detailed freeze DTC 156". I assume this may be a detail or sub code. Nothing has been preventing me from starting the car. But months ago there had been 2 occasions when, after having driven several miles and parked for a short time, then taking the freeway home, the car would idle high going up an overpass. On these occasions, the MFD shows a low SOC with only one purple bar. The first time this happened, it took around 10 miles before the SOC would creep up. The second time, I had it on cruise control and, while ascending a grade, the car jerked violently and acted as if I were flooring and letting off the gas in quick succession, about 4 times. I disengaged cruise control and took hills more slowly. The high idle up the hills backed off as the battery SOC increased. This time the SOC started in increase within a few minutes, as I would expect normally. I imagine that the electric motor was turning off and on, when the car was jerking, due to a low SOC.
These symptoms cleared up in a few days, apart from the hesitation on accelerating from a stop, and I've been driving it ever since. A few weeks ago, I noticed the car had major difficulty accelerating. I'll floor it and it barely moves, taking several seconds longer than it should to get up to speed. The SOC is stuck at 1 purple bar. I got the car home and turned it off. When I turned it back on, the SOC increased very quickly, only once. I now can't replicate that. The SOC simply will not go above one bar.
Another odd thing. When I'm creeping down the road, at say, 25mph, and I let off the throttle, the car just keeps moving as if cruise control is engaged.
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I have a 2004 Saturn Ion and when the cruise control is engaged it makes a short ratcheting sound if I go up an incline. It sounds like it happens in front of the stick shift and it doesn't affect the rpm's or the power of the engine, it's just a weird noise. It's done that for years and hasn't increased or changed, I'm just wondering what causes it, I've never heard a car make a sound like that before.
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The "Cruise Main" switch on my 2003 Honda Accord will not stay engaged. When I push it, the Cuise Main lights up in the dash board and I can operate cruise control, but when I release the Cruise Main switch it doesn't stay on. I've tried electrical tape to hold the switch in (holds for limited time), and am thinking about bypassing the switch altogether. I don't mind if the Cruise Main is on all the time. I know I could replace the switch, but am looking for a zero cost solution.
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My 2005 Mercury Montego has a weird issue with the cruise control. I have already taken it to a Ford dealer once. They claimed the switch on the brake pedal was the issue. It isn't.
At 70 mph, with cruise control OFF, take foot off accelerator and push on brake pedal. Works great.
At 70 mph, with cruise control On and engaged, the brake acts like the engine is off. It is very hard to push. It is like the engine is OFF and the vacuum assist is gone. Press really hard, and the car will slow down. Jab the brake once first (hard), then apply brakes, and it is fine. Push the cancel button on the steering wheel, and all is well. The few times I have looked, the tachometer has not moved. Car has CVT.
I bought this car new, and know it didn't always do this. And certainly shouldn't. A panic stop is scarier than it already would have been. Car has around 62000 miles on it.
Mechanic wrote that he observed the issue in a test dive and tested it following repair and it now works. I don't get this at all.
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I like to drive with cruise control engaged but I find I can't do that in my new (well, 182K 2005 6.0L) Excursion. It's holds speed just fine, but if I top a rise and start going downhill - basically when no effort needed to maintain speed - it starts chugging and shaking the whole truck real bad. It feels and sounds bad, can't be good for it (or so I've assumed in my head). It's a real staccato feeling as if fuel is being applied less than a second, stopped, reapplied. Is this something unique to the diesel (my first diesel), an issue with the cruise control (vacuum, electronic?), or what?
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Just had a couple questions, The first one is in regards to the brakes on my '09. I've read that the brakes themselves don't actually kick in until you are going 7 mph or less. Anyways, when I am coming to a stop it is not necessarily smooth. I try my best to apply even pressure to the brake, but I basically come to a jerky stop. Is this common in a Prius? I bought my car certified pre-owned last month and I know the brakes were one of the checklist items.
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I have a question: when physical brakes applied (at the end of the slight braking, or when speed is small, or when gasoline engine starts on parking car, or when i apply brakes on parking) i hear light "pssst" sound. It is like sound from back door stay assembly, when i open back door, or like suspension shock adsorber works. My local service bleed the brake fluid, but it doesn't work. When we bleeding rear brakes (left and right) and opens bleeding plug, that noise sounds continuously until we close bleeding plug. And there is no air in old brake fluid... Technician says, that sound is normal, but i also have Toyoyta Prius 20 and there is no noise while pressing brake pedal... I just want to ask: is that sound normal for Prius 30 or not?
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My wife told me she was hearing a squeaking sound coming from the front end of our 2006 Prius (90,000 miles) along with a noise when she applied the brakes.
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2004 Prius (123,000 miles). For the second time in a month, while driving, the brakes have suddenly gone funny (for lack of a better word). When I first apply the brakes to slow the car, it initially does not respond, then, as I continue to gradually depress the brake pedal, the car will begin to jerk as if I am slamming on the brakes repeatedly.
Just before this symptom begins, the brake system warning lights and master warning light come on.
The first time this happened, I took it to a shop (not Toyota-specific) and they found that my floor mat had slid forward and folded and was under the brake pedal touching the wires. When they removed the floor mat, the problem went away. I threw out the floor mat and have been driving without one.
Today, the same thing happened again, with nothing obstructing the brake pedal.
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I have a 2008 Prius basic model bought second hand. There are two issues since I have bought the car; first it will roll back or forward when the brake applied, this happens on any uphill or downhill. I brought the car to Toyota service centre, they did a brake test, the test passed. but this doesn't resolve this issue. It just very weird. during driving, all brake works ok, but parking the car, if not in even service, it starts to roll.
Second, recently I hear there's a crack sound when apply the brake during low speed, especially during the stop/start traffic, and I notice mostly happens when the electrical motor in running. So when brake, the crack, like the spark comes from somewhere like battery. While brake to slow down from high speed, seems no sound. So I suspect it was from the battery or electric motor.
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I drive a 2002 Santa Fe with 121k miles. Last week the red brake light came on in the dash that usually indicates the parking brake is activated, though it was not. Checked fluids, brakes worked fine, so I took it to the dealership to have it looked at.
They claimed "the ABS control module was leaking" and needed to be replaced in it's entirety...almost $2000, and they said that is the reason my brakes felt spongy when applied. I agreed they did. I decided to decline letting them fix it since my brakes had worked fine beforehand.
Upon picking up the car I notice the red indicator light is still on, and now the brakes need to be applied all the way to the floor to have any stopping power at all. It seemed to get worse after 2 days, I checked the brake fluid and it was empty! So I replaced the fluid, yet the brakes still function VERY poorly.
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Mine just quit on me. Nearly 180K. 2008 Gen 2. I watched that youtube video, they were working on a Corolla. Seems easy enough, it's a pricey part though. It's called an airbag clock spring. I don't think it's the stalk. The button feels the same as it ever did.
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Very very odd thing happened. Driving up from Houston to Colorado yesterday. Snow tires mounted in preparation for the snow in NM and CO. Around 300 mi into the trip, the CEL (check engine light) came on. I was on cruise control, I did not notice the lack of power. Checking the battery, it was in the purple. I first opened the gas cap and screwed it back in. I figured the change in elevation or temperature may have had something to do with the CEL. Nothing. Gas tank was a quarter full.
At Lubbock, I pulled over and filled up. I played with the rubber gasket on the gas cap but decided it was going to be more trouble than I was prepared to deal with, without any tools. CEL stayed on for another 30minutes or so while I navigated through the city, covering another 20 miles or so. After a pitstop to pick up OJ, I started the car and the CEL was off.
Here are the variables:
Elevation delta - +3000 ft
Temp delta - -10F
The only thing I can think of is that the hybrid battery is getting long in the tooth (2008 MY, 103k mi), the wind in the high plains chewed through the battery power, and the long length of being in low charge got the ECU to confuse itself into thinking that the hybrid battery has bad cells, which it probably has a few weak cells.
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My Prius is a 2009 with 30,000 miles.
Have just begun to have an intermittent problem with the cruise control (has happened twice in past month -- never happened before).
Turn cruise control on, but it will not set. Turning off cruise control and turning it back on didn't solve the problem. However, stopping and turning the vehicle completely off and turning it back on did solve the problem. The second time this occurred (this morning), the engine sounded like it was revving and seemed somewhat sluggish (not what you'd expect if the engine was revving). Not revving real fast, but noticeable.
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I feel like I am going crazy but it feels like when driving up long steep 6-7% grades if I set the cruise control for 65 I can go 65 the whole way. If however I just use the gas peddle the car bogs and slows enough to get passed by semis (maybe not that bad but it feels like it). Is there a rational explanation for this behavior?
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I noticed today that my cruise control quit working. Car has about 58K miles, the "cruise" light comes on when the button on the end of the switch is pushed in, but the device itself doesn't work.
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In the last 5,000 miles or so, my 2007 Prius has been really burning oil and intermittently the cruise control stops working. No warning lights. Car sounds and feels as usual. 235,000 miles on it. Water pump, thermostat and drive belt replaced 3/2013. Check engine light has been on since about then and diagnosed then as either catalytic converter and/or oxygen sensors and I chose not to fix those as was told not necessary until.
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I bought a 2008 Prius with 1800 miles, no carfax trouble history On the way home from purchasing the car,as is, 180 mile trip, the red triangle, check engine, VSC and other symbol came on and the cruise control shut off Took it to a Toyota dealer the next day and the scan showed no codes. They could not explain it but said not to worry. Now that its warm weather, when this happens, the AC shuts off also I am at a loss for what to do, obvioulsy something is wrong. BTW, I replaced the 12 V battery and notice that the duct fromthe hybid battery was missing. Could this contribute to the problem?
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I can't seem to activate cruise control on my 05 Prius. I went to the dealership and they checked the car out and said it's all good, cruise works and everything is fine, but I can't seem to activate it.
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I think my cruise control switch is bad. Is there a simple way to remove it without taking of the steering wheel.
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