I was going to put on some lowering spring on my prius last night but i couldnt figure out how to get the top bearing off. Looking for pictures or a guide or something?
View 1 Repliesnoise in my front end. I know there is a lot of stuff going on there so let me try. Noise is more like a groan not a squeak, tick, not an engine noise or a brake noise. Applying the brakes or turning the wheels does not make a noise. Best way to describe it to me it is like a bad bearing type of noise. The noise is starting to get louder.
View 19 RepliesI devloped a noise in the right front wheel. I thought it was a tire going bad so I rotated the tires & still had the noise. I was told by shop it is a wheel bearing. If that is the problem is that a DIY repair ?
View 5 RepliesFor several days I could hear a scraping sound from the right front side. I thought it was snow packed in the wheel well at first, until there wasn't any snow there. Today I was driving on the Xway and the scraping became a buzz like a Cessna airplane. On the way back home I turned the steering wheel back and forth and sure enough the buzz came and went. That made it sure to me the wheel bearing was bad.
View 19 RepliesAt about 20k on my 07 I started hearing a faint whup whup whup between 35 and 50 mph's on the front driver's side area. At 60+ pretty quiet. It has gotten real loud at the present 30K. I suspected the tirers as I know the Integrities are complete junk but as a test I did a rotation and exact same noise.
I thought thats not good but found it hard to believe something else was bad as I had no vibration and no pull whatsoever in steering. Long story short I bought a new set of tires Kumho KR21's at stock size and oh crap exact same noise.
This thread is about suspension though. Ever since installing my B&G coils my car has been making all kinds of funny noises. Originally I realized that the the top nuts for my struts were not nearly tight enough... which led to one of my struts having about 6 or 7 threads completely stripped from rubbing against the mount and not being tight. Completely disassembled the front shocks, made sure everything was kosher, and filled the passenger side with some washers before tightening everything down like a mofo (by hand, no air!) a few weeks ago. All was good.
Now, flash forward to now and it rattles all the time. Driving straight is usually when it makes noise. I immediately assumed it was loose top bolts as I had the same noise previously. I went down to buy some loctite and more tools so I could do the fix myself. Upon inspection, the bolts are still tight as hell. Tightening them rotates the spring, I can feel feel it pop if I rotate my ratchet far enough as the spring finally gives from rotation.
I checked the sway bars, axels, etc.... and nothing. I even went so far as to wrap everything down there in blue masking tape, put the wheel back on, drove around a while (made the noise like 20 times) and then jacked the car up to look again... not a single scratch on the tape. Some of it was still not even 100% pressed down. So my axels, sway bar, etc... have nothing to do with this (at least rubbing wise).
After doing all kinds of research both here and in the MKV forum, I've decided that this is probably due to foobar strut bearings. I ordered some SKF ones from DBC and hope that they come soon... but until then I am still uneasy (duh, this car is my life) and can't stop obsessively thinking about it. Now I am beginning to doubt that it is the strut bearings because most people seem to only have the noise issue when turning their wheels. I have the noise issue all of the time, except when I am driving on the freeway.
I've just begun to replace my front struts (Monroe quick strut pre-assembled). The thing is, the top bearing plate bolts and the lower mounting point are out of alignment by 90 degrees. The included directions say they can be rotated but gives no procedure and they do not just "turn" easily obviously. How to rotate them to fit??
View 3 RepliesRecently I have noticed a rattling noise from the left front strut. Looking up parts online I can see the strut, as well as an upper strut mount, either of which might be the culprit.
View 2 RepliesSo I replaced the front strut and the popping is still there. When I removed the old strut it seemed like that would be the problem as there isn't any play in the ball joints and tie rod end.
View 12 RepliesI need to replace these as they are weakening. Can I get replacements at my FLAPS or are they a Toyota-only item? I'm asking because on another vehicle, I could not get the strut from a FLAPS due to the length not being a standard length with the proper connectors.
View 1 RepliesNeed to change an 02 front wheel bearing. Can the the bearing be replaced without taking hub off? It slides or presses in.
View 4 RepliesI had my friend of mine who is a mechanic change my struts out this weekend. I had clunking noises from the right strut Toyota and also a tire place said I needed new struts. So I got them replaced now both sides are clunking see the YouTube video.
View 7 RepliesI've been (for the first time) changing my struts on my 08 prius, having read a couple of threads, have manual, etc. The fronts went in fairly easily, but I noticed that when taking out the rear (left), it (the spring) was under a fair amount of compression when it "dropped" out. I was thinking, "how will it go back in once I swap out the strut?".... Also, it seems to me that the stud/spindle is in the way, making it very difficult to get the strut back in as well. I believe I have the vehicle jacked up in the same manor that Patrick Wong shows, with the 2x4 under the axle, and a 2nd jack as well. What is the trick to get this back in???
View 6 RepliesI replaced my front struts today and afterward the ABS and "(!)" light came on as soon as I turned on the car. I checked the speed sensor lines and they all look okay so I didn't damaged them in the process. The car brakes quite soft but still works and the regenerative braking still works. The mechanic pulled the following codes: C1300 and C1319. I went ahead and reset the ABS light by crossing pin 4 and 13 on the OBD2 connector technique. That reset the lights, and the brake also works as normal as well. After driving around a bit, turned off the car, then turned it back on the lights came back on again.
View 6 RepliesWhat is causing the right front wheel bearing to keep going bad on my 06 f-150 2 wheel drive....
View 1 RepliesI have a 2007 the front wheel bearing started humming real bad, changed it out. Can't seem to get the right front brake bled good. Did it three times. No air. Today locked up the left wheel upon putting on the brake, the right one ain't working. Is there any thing I can do other than bleed the left front again, check fluid?
View 2 RepliesWhile swapping on my winter tires yesterday, I noticed the strut boot (I believe it's called) on the passenger side has a large crack, almost split in two. See picture attached.
The Prius is a 2006 with almost 370K KM (~231K miles), and I am hoping to keep the car for another 1-2 years, until the PIP2 is out.
Is this something to be concerned about? The strut is not leaking, and the suspension seems otherwise fine.
I have the dreaded front wheel bearing noise front left had a monsoon last month in orlando. Went through a puddle. Did the front right 8 months ago,everythings fine I am doing uber. Can I spray some deep creep or oil in there to tempt calm the noise?
View 1 RepliesRepeat Front Hub Failures -- 2WD Try this situation -- Purchased 2006 F-150 XL with 57,000 miles. Truck built on 05/24/2006.
Sept 2011 68,621 miles -- Left front hub failure -- Wheel bearing grinding -- Done by Bell Ford in Phoenix.
2013 -- Left front hub failure -- wheel bearing grinding -- done by independent shop.
Sept 2014 -- Left front hub failure -- wheel bearing grinding -- done by independent shop.
Sept 2016 -- Upper & lower control arms, struts, strut mounts, springs replaced -- Quality part used -- Complete front end alignment -- Brake job front and rear.
Nov 2016 -- New performance exhaust system due to exhaust leaks.
Dec 2016 -- Failed automatic transmission -- Remanufactured FORD transmission installed w/ 36 mo warranty. Sanderson Ford gets an A+
March 16, 2017 151,000 miles -- Left front hub failure -- wheel bearing grinding! Verified by jacking up truck and spinning left front wheel -- GRIND! This is coming from down in the hub. This is a 2 wheel drive truck. Yes, you counted correctly, this will be the 4th replacement on the Left side!
NO Towing! NO Overloading! Wheels are 2006 XLT style Aluminum rims with P235/70R17 Michelin XLT M/S (Defender LTX) tires all around.
It only hauls maybe 200 to 300 pounds of electronic equipment at the max, once in a while. This is driving me crazy! I always use FORD PARTS for the HUB ASSEMBLIES. Really loosing faith, the front right hub is OEM original - NEVER CHANGED!
I have read the older posts here on the super duty ford 4x4 system. At 60,000 miles I noticed what sounds like a gear or bearing noise, or even a whining noise like you would hear from mud grip tires, coming from the front end area, while driving back from Kentucky to Georgia. I have quiet running street tires on this pickup.
I have a 2004 F350 crew cab XL, automatic, 4x4, limited slip axles, 430 gearing and a V10. This truck has always been extremely quiet on the highway. This noise I described above has increased and the truck now has 70,000 miles. I have the factory 4x4 dash switch in my truck cab for the 4x4 engagement. I always thought the dash switch engaged and disengaged the transfer case, and locked or unlocked the automatic hubs.
The service guy at the dealer now tells me that the dash switch only locks and unlocks the front hubs, and the front drive shaft and front differential are engaged full time. So, after checking my tires for defects, and for any play or bearing noise in my wheel bearings, I am looking at pulling the drive shaft out keep the front differential from turning, to determine if I have a bad bearing in the front axle assembly.
Now I read some of the posts here, and they say that with the dash switch in "2 wheel drive", the transfer case should be disengaged and the front drive shaft and front axle should not be turning at all. What is turning up front with the 4x4 disengaged on the dash switch ? I'm afraid to drive my truck out of town now and I need to isolate this issue and get it repaired. This has been a great truck and it's very reliable.
So I have to replace the front unit bearings on my 2004 f250 4wd. My question is, which thread pattern I have, fine or coarse? I have read that the early models, 99-02 have coarse threads. Afterwards they are fine. I am going to order online as they are cheaper than the local parts store. I have the Timken part numbers for either thread pattern.
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