My Front Suspension NOW SHAKES; After Having the Prius Intermediate Shaft Replacement Recall done!!
I took my PRIUS to the dealer this past week and had the Prius Intermediate Shaft Replacement Recall done.
My 2004 r32 has 160k miles, cam positioning lite wouldn't clear-outer (small) chain intermediate shaft gear just about worn completely out. Are timing specs for cams,crank, intermediate shaft available, also torque specs? Iread the 12v chain diy thread, but I doubt they are the same.
View 1 RepliesOur 2012 Prius with now 17,000 miles in 8 months has developed a clunking noise when turning the steering wheel, especially far to the right at low speeds.
The first time the dealer identified it as a failed intermediate shaft and replaced it under warranty. Shortly after we told them it was starting to make the noise again, but they claimed they couldn't replicate the sound and anything they heard was normal 'linkage' (whatever that is). Shortly thereafter the clunking progressed so we took it in for now the third time, and they confirmed the problem, spoke with Toyota who said we must have had a bad part, and replaced it again.
Replaced the Intermediate Steering Shaft at 114,000 miles. Symptoms felt like power steering going out but no pump noise or low fluid. Steering became hard to turn and it sometimes felt like a tie rod was letting go.
Temporary resolution was to spray the two steering shaft joints with penetrating oil (PB Blaster). That freed them up pretty well. Then I ordered Dorman part 425361 (425-361) from Rock Auto. Simple enough job. Lots of good vids on YouTube.
I don't recommend spraying the steering shaft joints as preventative maintenance. Penetrating oil will get into the needle bearings and break down the bearing grease. That will cause the joints to fail over time.
Two side benefits, the truck steering is much smoother and small road bumps and potholes are much less noticeable. Feels like it was when new.
It appears the knock I heard isn't from the suspension, its from the intermediate steering shaft. You can actually feel it in the steering wheel. The vehicle is out of warranty. I still don't understand why toyota wont fix this since its a known flaw in the design of the car.
View 9 RepliesTruck is 2002 2WD 4.7L Durango and around 164K
I am looking to replace the intermediate steering shaft as it making noise it seems they are common to this problem due to a weak U joint. The problem I have is I can track the correct part. Here is what I have research so far:
Have found this one 55351246AA but it says it will not fit.
Also found the Dorman 425-257 but it says is for 4WD but it reference to this OE part numbers: 55351208AA, 55351208AB, 55351246AA
Have try the Dodge parts website but that is even more confusing. I have already replace the ball joints, wheel bearings and inner and outer tie rods and this is the last part that needs to be replaced if I can track the correct one.
Looking for an aftermarket intermediate steering shaft for my 2001 f350 since the original has some play at the slip joint and u joints.
View 1 RepliesLooking for info on these replacements and is there any manuals out there to assist with the process?
View 1 RepliesI'm working on a 2007 F150 V6 with a 4 speed automatic.. which seems to be a 4R70W. It has 36,xxx miles on it and the transmission tailshaft is cracked by the mount and leaking fluid.
The tailshaft can be replaced by itself without disassembling and removing the whole transmission right? The part number/Ford Engineering number on it is "RF-F3LP-7A040-AA" and it says 42A below that. Can I look for any tailshaft or just this number? F3 is a 1993 number isn't it? I don't know the length of it but it doesn't have a hole for a speedo cable.
how hard is it to replace the U-joint at the differential side of the shaft on an 04 FX4? Any special tools needed? At low speed (5-10mph) sounds like someone tapping on the rear end with a ball peen hammer, I guess it is the u-joints.
View 2 RepliesMy left driver side parking light is out.
Can you get to that light to replace it easily, without removing bumper, etc??
And if so, what kind of bulb does it take??
I recently replaced timing belt and balance belt on my 2004 santa fe 2.4l and now the engine runs like crap and shakes badly. I went over all timing marks again and again and I am at a loss.
View 9 Replies2007 Prius here. A few months ago I had a similar problem. Basically when putting my hand on the door sensor, the doors would cycle through unlocking (noise, lights flash etc) without actually unlocking. If I keep pulling the handle after each attempt it seems to go forever.
The front passenger door also did not lock under any circumstance.
Took it into Toyota, they absolutely screwed me I now realize, $900 to replace a door actuator in that passenger door.
Worked fine for a few weeks. Then all of a sudden, problem started again. Just like last time, slowly slowly over the course of 2 months, it got worse and worse until today I could not open the driver side front or rear door at all.
I am wanting to remove my front drive shaft from my 2004 Aviator for a couple of month's while I save money to have my transfer case replaced. Are there any safety concerns with this? just need a couple of month's to get the money together....
View 5 Replies2000 F 350 super cab 4wd 7,3 auto srw long bed. Problems with emergency/parking. My cable probably needs replacing. My pedal will go to floor when setting the e brake. I use very infrequently, but when loading hay on the big bale trailer. I could ignore it but when hit the slightest bump the brake pedal goes down just enough to activate the brake light on the dash and activates the bell/chime until I raise the brake pedal up.
When searching this site one post stated that should not happen. I am trying to figure out if I need to replace the front cable, intermediate cable, and rear cables. And do I need to replace the foot pedal assembly as well. What are the part numbers for these. I generally order from who ever took over Edpartguys for original ford parts. I have new cryo rotors and Hawke brake pads.
My 2004 f 150 has only 60 k on it and I have chased these micro-shimies since the truck was new! First there was a giant recall on the 2004 design of the rotors and calipers. I have since changed all that again..... This is now the third set of brakes.....
New last winter I put on 4 KUMO tires......and have had them rebalanced twice ( bad sign of quality in my opinion ).
Now 1 strut leaks. I am shopping i think LEAWOOD brand on rockauto parts is that a good quality? How about changing 1 strut? Is that silly at 60 k or should I man up and do both? Darn thing shakes at interstate speeds all the time...
I have a 2004 F350 Crew Cab DRW 4WD 6.0L.
The front drive shaft is making a high pitched metallic squeal while the truck is in motion. I thought it might be the universal joints but after lubricating the joints, I can still hear the squeal and it sounds like it is coming from inside the drive shaft. I also hear this squeal when I spin the drive shaft by hand.
I have quite a few questions about these drive shafts:
- What would cause a squeal from within the drive shaft?
- Are there any replaceable parts or do I have to get a new drive shaft?
- How do I identify the correct drive shaft part for my truck? Seems like there are a LOT of different models on the web.
- Are any of the aftermarket drive shafts any good? Any to avoid?
- Is this a DIY job or will I need to take it in to the shop?
I have a 2004 v8 phaeton. Recently I found out the front shocks cannot work properly to absorb the shakes. I can feel stiffened and the car swayed badly on those light offroad. How come it doesn't happen to the rear shocks but just the front one?
It is so uncomfortable while driving in my car. I also drove it to vw 4s and have the tire rotation, wheel alignment done, then they checked the air suspension and said it still worked. Actually they didn't make my car being better, coz when i drove it back home i can still feel the same, shocks are tough and the car swayed, I wondered if the front shocks have been worn out. Then I ask the advisor from vw if he can order the new parts for me, then he answered they cannot replace them for me, coz it is air-shocks, i am so confused , what's that mean by air shocks?and air shocks can not be replaced?
My 2013 Passat 2.5L auto transmission needs to have the right (passenger) CV Axle Shaft replaced. It has 76k miles and has developed a clicking noise when making sharpish left hand turns. I listen to the stereo a little louder these days, but in the back of my mind, I know it's got to be fixed.
I did a search on this forum, but didn't see any direct detailed info on DYI replacement. It seems pretty simple, but the previous Passat models used bolts for the axle-transmission connection. The B7 uses a splined shaft into the tranny with no bolts. Any tricks for removing it from the tranny or fitting back into the tranny?
I have a 2001 4 cylinder Santa Fe. And atm I'm trying to replace the balance shaft oil seal but am having major problems getting it out.
View 2 RepliesFrom what I've read, the procedure for removing and replacing the drive shaft involves pulling the upper ball joints and tie rod end from the steering knuckle--is it possible to put a floor jack below the lower arm (the load runs to the spring through the lower arm) and undo the lower ball joint to get the clearance required to remove the shaft?
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