Long story short, I had run down the HV battery in my 2001 Prius. It turned out to be a faulty wire to the ignition system of the ICE. While diagnosing, I let the HV battery drain, at least I think I did (Please see image of my HV battery specs). My question is, How can I charge the HV battery? I read Öut of Juice" but do not have the charger. My question is can I make one?
View 18 RepliesI replaced the 12v battery this morning with an Optima, as some here suggest. No problem, but the strap on the Optima is touching the negative connector wire. I tried squishing the battery strap under the metal hold-down bar but that doesn't work.
View 10 RepliesMy first Prius, an 05 has 249K and performs pretty much flawlessly. My second, an 04 which I purchased in May, has 75K. While driving the 04 yesterday, all the lights came on the dash and really scared me. I immediately pulled off the road and checked belt, fluids and anything else I could. I then called the dealer and they thought since the car was running normal, to bring it in. For a hundred dollars I was told the HV battery, though working and not a problem, would have to be replaced due to a faulty "battery temp sensor" and that this part is not repairable....I need a new battery! Code POA9B ... Tomorrow I am taking the rear panel out and check the HV battery fan, etc. Can I drive the car with these lights on? Everything seems to work but the CC.
View 9 RepliesI haven’t been on these boards very often since getting my used 2008 Prius because until now it has been very kind to me in terms of not needing mechanical repairs. Unfortunately that good streak seems to have come to an end. Driving home Monday evening (after ~30min freeway driving), my master system warning light came on, accompanied by the hybrid system warning light. I didn’t know what the latter was – had to look it up – but I immediately pulled to the shoulder. The car was driving normally, however. Since shops and dealers were closed for the evening, after much debate I ended up having the car towed to a family friend’s body shop; they were still there and had a scanner to check the error codes for me. My car was on the side of the freeway for well over an hour with hazard lights on and the dome light on and off occasionally as we got in and out of the car. By the time the tow truck arrived, I discovered that the 12V battery seemed dead; car wouldn’t boot up all the way, wouldn’t shift to neutral and didn’t want to power down – I had to try turning it off upwards of 10 times. I was surprised, given just the hazard light and limited dome light usage. We jumped it, got it in neutral and on the truck.
At the body shop, they said there were no error codes related to the hybrid battery; something about transmission that wasn’t clarified, and errors for low voltage on the 12V battery. With everything off, it measured 10-something V; something higher when turned on, but they believed the problem was a dead 12V battery. I was surprised that it would suddenly give out in the middle of driving, but we went ahead and replaced it the next day. I picked up the car Tues evening, and had no problems driving it home, to work the next morning. Unfortunately, during my drive home – strangely at almost exactly the same location as the first time – the same hybrid system warning light came back on. I’d driving about 70 miles with it off at this point before the reappearance. This time I didn’t pull over to the side (had enough of that before) but rather drove a few more miles to a parking lot where the car has now stayed overnight. I note that the car seemed to drive perfectly normally during that time; no loss of power.
I have a 2003 passat 1.8 and I just started having a misfiring problem. I googled it and ran across a 2003 press release that VW had recalled them. I am going to call tomorrow, but I did a little testing myself. Probably not the best thing to do, but this is what I did. I had my wife start the car and I pulled off the coils until I hit the one that didn't make the car shake any more than it already was. It is the second one from the front. I pulled the spark plug out. It is the original, but didn't look too bad.
My question is: How do you test the ignition coil to see if it is faulty or if it could be the distributor? The coil that attaches to the plug looks a little burnt around the rim where it connects to the plug. Its not an expensive part, but I don't want to go buying another one just to find out it is the main distributor or something else...
I have a 2000 Staturn LW2 auto, 6cyl. When I try to turn on the car, sometimes the engine does not turn, doesn't make a sound, nothing. When I move the steering wheel, it turns on fine, it has to be in a certain position. Does that mean, the ignition switch is faulty or is it the pin? Is there a test I can do?
View 7 RepliesWe took our 2008 Prius in for a check engine light. The dealership said oxygen sensor was faulty. Changed that and had them change the serpentine belt while there due to cracks in the belt. My wife filled up the car the next day ( it took 13 gallons) but gas gauge was not registering a full tank. We drove 67 miles and I decided to pull into a gas station and see how much it would take since the gas gauge was not working properly. It took over 7 gallons.
View 8 RepliesMy 07 with 178K miles is getting about 35MPG and the only thing noticeably different in the constant lighting of the low pressure indicator, even tho the tires are fine.
Stopping by Costco Tire, the mgr. said there is a battery in the indicator that does wear out, knowing how linked the electronics are in these cars, could this be the cause of the poor mileage?
I have a 2004 Prius CVT-E with 160,000 miles. It gave me the check engine lights and after I drove it for a mile, it ran out of power and wouldn't accelerate, though it kept starting. After towing it to the dealer, they said there was a "loss of communication with ECMs and RCM junction connector for J18 for communication line due to water damaged from windshield leaking and shorting connector and junction block."
There was also water damage to the carpet and headliner assembly (it was raining that day). They said that the windshield must've been installed improperly at some point, but I don't remember ever having to replace the windshield.
So is it possible that they can tell that the windshield was different from the original, and any problems with original windshields?
I just bought my 2006 Toyota Prius about a year ago in 2009. It has been treating me LIKE GOLD !!! up to this point. About a month or two ago, the check engine light came on and stayed on along with a big red triangular warning light. I let it go for about a week hoping that it would just go away.
I brought the vehicle into my local Toyota dealership so they can diagnose it.They told me that they had 3 or 4 different "codes" coming from the machine when getting the signals from the check engine light. All the codes were related to the cooling system. They said that they felt that there was "debris" clogging the pathway for the coolant flow throughout the engine. They had recommended a "coolant flush" for the hybrid side as well as the mechanical side. So I took their advice and I had them perform the coolant flushes.
After leaving the dealership that 1st time, the check engine light came back on the next day. I called the same dealership and explained it to them. They asked me to bring it in again. SO I brought it to them a 2nd time. They diagnosed it again. They told me they came up with 2 of the SAME "codes" and 1 that was different, but ALL the codes were STILL related to the cooling system. They explained to me that something was preventing the clear flow of coolant throughout the engine. And since the thermostat was the only major obstacle, they recommended that I replace it. Well, I did. And after I left the dealership that 2nd time, I was praying that this was the last of my Prius issues! The check engine light came back on the next day.
Headlight knob: rotated to OFF
Headlight lever: LOWBEAM position
Expected Results: headlights are completely off
Actual results: headlights are completely off (OK)
Headlight knob: rotated to OFF
Headlight lever: pulled into FLASH TO PASS position
Expected Results: highbeams on until lever is released
Actual results: highbeams on until lever is released (OK)
On wife's 2011 ESCAPE, we want to install another "cigarette lighter" type female power port that is live only when the key is on. (to power up the GPS without having to unplug/replug it every time.)
Any best place to tap into an easily accessible wire that is hot only while vehicle is running---maybe off the power window circuit, and what color wire am I looking for & where without too much disassembly?
Last month, I started my gti up and a "Start System Faulty" code appeared. The car started normal and drove perfectly fine.
I immediately took it in to the dealership and they could not diagnose the problem or turn off the damn warning! They released my car and said to come back in a few weeks.
So, two days later, the warning disappeared and I thought it was just an electrical glitch.
Fast-forward to last week, the warning light came back on and took it in again. I suggested that they take a look at the ignition switch and sure enough, they fixed it for me over the weekend by installing a new ignition switch and the problem is gone.
I have done some searches and think I've found the relevant threads, but I want to get confirmation from people who have actually done it.
From what I've gathered, I should be able to leverage the incoming ignition power that goes to the rear view mirror, which is supposedly the blue wire. From there I can cut the power cable in my dashcam and splice it into the blue wire connection to power the dash cam?
I've heard some people also wire it through the headliner/A-piller and to the relays, but I'd rather take the shortest route.
I noticed yesterday that my 2001 was stumbling when turning left. Later in the day, the CEL came on, and I retrieved a P0301 code. In both cases, I was driving around town, not cold but not fully warmed up, engine temp around 40-70 C.
I haven't done any further investigation, other than trying some different driving experiments. I've been able to recreate the problem several times starting out with a left turn when the car briefly runs on three cylinders. Going straight or turning right is fine.
Question: which cylinder is #1? My intent is to check the plugs and leads first, but since it's cold outside I'd like to focus my attention as much as possible on the problem area. I thought at first it might be fuel related because of the turning behavior, but on reflection, it feels more like an ignition issue.
Any easy solution to reseating this wire in the connector? It got yanked out by accident when i was removing an ignition coil under the wiring harness. 2007 camry v6
View 3 RepliesMy 89 Mazda B2600i conked out on me suddenly about 10 days ago. My local mechanic replaced the distributor, cap, and rotor and the ignition coil and now it's running again. But starting it up at the mechanic's, I noticed a new faint sound like a clock ticking rapidly. From under the hood it sounds more like an exposed spark plug firing, but fainter.
After driving around to make sure I wasn't imagining it, I had the mechanic take a quick listen and look. He couldn't say for sure what it was, but said it was probably nothing to worry about.Taking a look under the hood at night, I saw lights running along the spark plug wires (continuous) and flashes of light where the spark plugs insert (frequent).
If one terminal of a volt meter is placed on the outside of the wire running from the ignition coil to the distributor and the other held in the air, the voltage rapidly builds up to 4 volts (a few seconds) and then immediately drops back to zero. This happens in roughly the same time frame as the flashes of light where the spark plugs insert, but I can't tell if it's the exact same frequency. What's going on?
My 77 F150 Ranger with a 400 in it didn't wanna start up at all. It wouldn't even crank or click like if the battery was dead. Then I tried again this morning and it cranked once then melted a red wired with I think a black or gray tracer, on the ignition. (I put a new solenoid on a couple months back and the positive also melted a bit by the solenoid but didn't pay any attention to it.) I'm just wondering what could be wrong with it to make it do that and how to fix it. Also when I went to put gas in it (it's on a slight hill making it lean to the driver side) it was empty but no fuel would go down the filler neck, then it started to gurgle and spit it out some. I was told it was vapor lock but I thought vapor lock happens when it's hot.
View 3 RepliesI have a Lexus RX 330 2006. Two days ago my key couldn't start the car he stuck inside the ignition. I ordered a locksmith guy and he open the auto meter so he can get to the ignition. Now the ignition working but when I try to start the car the car doesn't start. The security system turn on and off , it's seem like the car doesn't recognize the key, the guy also make a new key and program the car but still the car is not charging, I also order mechanics to see if somethings wrong with the car and he didn't see any problem . I think the car shut down and I need professional guy who know how to program the car...
View 4 RepliesI need to get the part number of the wire harness connector that clicks into the right abs sensor connector. The code for the connector is A4 but I wasn't able to find any info about it online. This is for a 2009 Toyota Prius. car got into an accident and the wire harness connector was cut.
See the attached pics.....
My battery went dead in my 2004 rx330. We tried jumping it but the horn continually went off and the ignition wouldn't acknowledge the key. We have replaced it and only the dash lights up, and locks work, but wont start...
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