Prius (2004-09) :: HV Battery Going Up And Down Fairly Rapidly
Jun 9, 2014
Last 2 weeks my 2006 HV battery seems to be showing the SOC very erratically. Going up and down fairly rapidly, sometimes staying at 4 bars for a good 20 minute drive on the highway. This weekend after driving 7 hours in 110 degree heat, the battery fan came on. It was blowing on high for about 15 minutes and then it quieted down.
I believe these are signs of it's potential upcoming failure. The car has only 127k miles so I'm still in warranty. So fingers crossed that I'll be close to home when I see all the warning lights pop up.
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What would be considered normal variation in idle speed? VCDs shows my Phaeton idle speed jumping between 680 rpm and 720 rpm fairly rapidly. I feel like the car is hunting too much at idle causing excessive vibration. There are no codes from the engine or transmission. Am I looking for a problem that isn't there?
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I recently was stuck in a traffic jam in the middle of the Mojave desert. Outside temp was about 102 and we crept along for maybe 15 minutes going no more than 5-10 mph. I had the air conditioning on. I noticed the power bars were rapidly disappearing and got worried that I would lose the battery if I didn't get moving. Needless to say, I finally was able to speed up and the bars came back. (dropped to 2 bars).
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So i am trying to diagnose my vibration/noise that i am getting from the front right side of my 08 prius (176k miles). It kind of like a rattle vibration when driving on fairly smooth roads. I jacked up the right side to take a look around to see if anything is out of the ordinary. I did the push pull around the tired to see if there was any motion (there was none). Although there is some play when you manual rotate the wheel, about and inch of circumferential motion. Is this normal ?
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I was driving down a stretch of freeway that sloped down, took an exit, and rolled to a stop at a red light. The traction battery indicator was at full. While waiting for the light to turn green, the ICE would come on for a few seconds, turn off for a few seconds, turn on again, doing so for the minute or so until we started moving again. What was happening.
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i've noticed on my 2008 prius that once i lose the first bar of gas i begin to rapidly lose the rest. For example the first bar might take three days to vanish but once its gone i might lose the second bar on the same day i lost the first.
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My 2003 Camry's battery was drained this morning and there was a rapid clicking noise. Upon further investigation, the clicking noise was in two places, a large red relay under the hood and also inside the car. The open door indicator was flashing rapidly in step with the clicking noise. The clicking stopped when I inserted the key into the ignition but it would not start.
I first tried removing the door open fuse but there was no change. I then removed the relay and the ECU-B fuse and all clicking stopped.
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I disconnected the battery cable and when I reconnected it the red 'theft' light began rapidly blinking on the dash and ignition/starting was disabled. followed owners manual advice using the key to unlocking drivers door (to re-set anti-theft device) but this did not work. Called two Ford dealers and both say have to tow car in for this to be fixed. Problem is, car is on an island with no towing service available. I'm thinking there must be a way around this. I have two original keys with the key fobs and neither works to fix it by unlocking the door.
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I've been reading about gliding and warp stealth and all that buggermerall, and on my way home tonight I was stuck behind someone going 50, maybe not so bad as it is an excuse not to use too much gas considering the speed limit on the interstates here (I was on the interstate) is 75. However, I decided it was time to get past this guy and when I went to accelerate my engine just seemed to rev up fairly noisily with little to no acceleration. Backing off the accelerator and easing into it again had the same results, seemingly high RPMs (I have no way of really knowing this currently) and virtually no power. I finally just stuck with it and it eventually started doing it's thing correctly again, but I noticed once the panic subsided that my battery level had only 2 bars left. It really felt like trying to accelerate in too low a gear.
Could this have been a cause of using up my battery prior to the attempted acceleration and not having any backup for the ICE? I can't seem to make heads or tails of it, and I'm not sure if I should be concerned about it.
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I tried to turn on my car this morning, but the "Ready" sign didn't go on. The whole display is black. "Check Engine" sign blinked briefly. Battery display shows the battery is "green". Everything else works - cd/radio/bluetooth, etc. As I tried to start it, the screen showed that the engine briefly charged the Prius battery, then it was all quite. I tried to wait and restart a few times, but still the display was all black and no "ready" sign. I WAS able to still move the car, but I didn't chance to drive it out of the garage. I just had it serviced (oil/fluid change). Small battery was replaced in July.
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We are newer to hybrids. We purchased a used 2012 prius approximately 1 year ago. Within the past year, we have replaced the headlights approximately 6 times. Last month we replaced both front lights and tonight, out of nowhere 3 lights burnt out (both headlights and 1 bright light). It was dark outside and we live in a rural area so we had to drive 90 miles with 1 bright and the 2 day time lamps.
We maybe have changed bulbs in other vehicles once every couple of years and this is a monthly thing with our Prius. They aren't cheap so it's frustrating. My husband has been changing the bulbs and he does not touch the glass.
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In the last 2 weeks I get 60MPG (indicated) with ease on my 22 mile round trip all city work commute. The commute is very predictable with the same speeds and driving technique and similar light pattern.
The thing is, the most part of the summer I had to work hard to get upper 50's on the same commute.
No, I don't use AC as the temps are mild enough to drive with windows down in early morning and evening.
There are 2 variables: the ambient temp went down to low 80's rather than high 80's before.
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Just bought a 2010 Prius with 48k miles. I'm noticing what feels like a slight slipping when rapidly accelerating, or that's what I would call it in any other car. It's barely noticeable, and my only concern is if this is the beginning of a transmission issue.
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I want to say that I love my prius but I am having an odd (although minor issue).
When I accelerate a I hear a noise (it sort of sounds like a cricket rapidly chirping, only a lower pitch or maybe a phone on vibrate).
What this could be?
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I just get a hand of a brake blinkers module that when you connected parallel to the brake lights it will blinks and strobes like emergency vehicles. When brake is pressed, the brake lights blinks rapidly and strobes random pattern. It gives more visibility instead just stay on.
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Troubleshooting a headlight problem on a 2004 V8 Touareg. Driver's side xenon low beam flickered rapidly and then quit working. I replaced xenon bulb with OEM part, still not working. Swapped in known good bulb from passenger's side, still not working. Took to dealership, who said it needed new ballast, which dealer would be happy to install for a mere $900 in parts and labor. Declined dealer's offer, ordered new replacement OEM ballast (from Chrysler dealer for several hundred less than VW), installed new ballast, still not working. Cleared all fault codes using VAG-COM, still not working. Swapped in known good ballast from passenger's side headlight, still not working. Auto-leveling is still working in both lights. So...not the bulb, not the ballast. Wiring harness, perhaps?
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I have a 2004 Prius, the Red triangle came on intermittently and went off so I changed the 12V battery last night, after changing it the red warning light went off and everything seemed okay. Today while driving, the warning light came back on. I checked the battery voltage via diagnostic mode on the cars computer and the specs are what they should be. I noticed the following error codes in the computer:
01-D5, Sub-code: 190-30-8
01-DC, Sub-code: 190-B7-8
01-DC, Sub-code: 1C6-4D-F
Not sure if these are what is causing the problem.
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My 2006 Prius HV battery recently died after 144,000 miles. I got a new battery. To my surprise my mileage has dropped from 45 to 37 mpg. I contacted the dealer repair shop and they told me that the computer system needs to "re-learn" how to optimize the synchronization between gas engine and electric motor. The process can take 2 to 5 thousand miles.
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I've been having an issue with my 2008 for the last several months and was wondering if this is a common problem, or unique to my vehicle.
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Just returned from a mechanic who tested my 2004 Prius with 134,000. It indicated there is a problem with the main battery. I was trying to avoid the dealer but it looks like it is a must. He suggested I ask the dealer to remove the battery and bring it to a place in Clearwater Florida to have them refurbish it. If I try to trade in this car I won't get anything for it with the engine light on, right? What should I do? I replaced the 12V two months ago.
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If Prius has to constantly spin the ICE when over 42 mph, even when only running on battery power, it must waste a lot of energy overcoming ICE compression all the time. Or is there some kind of system to reduce compression in this situation – just curious....
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