Prius (2004-09) :: Panel Alarm Lights Go On And Power Lost - Inverter Failure?
Sep 11, 2014
My 2008 Prius (111,000 miles) had all the panel alarm lights go on and lost power while I was driving on the freeway. After turning off the vehicle and letting it “rest” for 10 minutes, it restarted with only the red triangle alert light remaining on and was able to drive to my dealer service (about 40 miles) with no incident. The diagnostic code indicates that the inverter has failed, but the technicians are not able to confirm that this is the problem, since the system is now running. I was able to drive it home with no problems or warning lights. As this is a $4,000 part, I would like to know if this is a likely, or even possible, scenario for an inverter failing, or could it be another problem? Note: 3 months ago the auxiliary battery was replaced following the same circumstances.
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My 2007 Prius with 162k miles had an Inverter Coolant Pump Failure Monday 6.5 hours from home when my wife was driving it home from a trip. Red Triangle, (!), vsc, and check engine light. She was able to make it about 20 minutes to a dealer where it was diagnosed. Luckily no further damage was done to vehicle. Yes, she should have stopped but continued on since car was driving OK.
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What happens when a power inverter fails while driving?
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Prius 2009 inverter coolant pump failure 51,300 miles....
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I own a 2006 JDM prius with 323,000 km. The inverter coolant pump failed recently (got P0A93 code and no agitation in coolant reservoir). I ordered a replacement on eBay and am awaiting arrival. I may need to do some light driving in the in the interim and am thinking about installing a 10 inch fan in the space between the inverter/transmission and radiator to keep things cool. Is this wise or should I just let the car sit until the new pump gets here?
Also, I am burning oil...I usually have to top up 1 to 2 quarts in between changes. Is there anything I can do without tearing down the engine? A friend of mine suggested using Lucas oil stabilizer the next time I change oil...could this have any negative implications?
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My Prius is 07 with 146k in southern California, for two days every morning I took a short trip to a store then when driving back home the prius battery lost bars fast and I lost power with all sorts of warning lights. Then I drive off with no problems for the entire day. I disconnected the aux battery and that reset the Error codes, I checked the inverter pump and works properly, I checked the aux battery and shows 12v when off and 13.9v -14v when on. This happens every morning so I suspect it's the aux battery. 3months ago my dash lights went out and rebooted the car with no problems.
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199k on my prius. I'm driving 65 mph and bam! All warning lights come on, PROBLEM, comes up on the mfd, and the mfd had a funky little broken cat symbol light in the top left corner.
I lose engine power and coast to a stop. As I'm coasting the speed display stops showing my speed... even though the rest of the gouges are lit on the display. While parked I realize I have very little 12v battery juice....
With a jumper pack on the front terminals I get the cat home. I ser on the display the my hv battery is stuck at one bar.
At home I charge the 12v battery and get the hv battery fully charged by holding the gas down in drive with foot on the brake. My Toyota mechanic told me to do that. All warning lights go away. I leave a jumper pack on the battery in the rear and take for another test drive. Car is better but still sluggish... Try to get it up to 50 mph and bam! again all warning lights return.
So I get the car to toyota dealer and and my guy reads the codes and tells me every ecu is showing codes abs recommends 12v battery replacement. He clears the codes. So I buy a brand new battery and after installing it all warning lights return on test ride. Car won't do over 50 mph and is def still a mess.....
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While driving home last night the Red Triangle, CEL and the Hybrid Warning lamp, (on the MFD) all lit up. The cruise control also shut down. We stopped and checked the manual to identify what the symbols meant. We were approximately 90 miles from home, drizzling rain and it was about 60 degrees.
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The inverter failed on my 2010 Prius. Toyota had recalled this on previous models, but not the 2010 Gen III.. When it fails the car shuts itself off while you are driving. Luckily I was not on the freeway but was still nearly rear ended and was lucky to get off the road with no power.
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2010 Toyota Prius III with just under 60,000 miles. The car has been serviced at Toyota from day one (by us and by the previous owners) and runs like a champ. Well, did.
Last week while driving home from running errands the Check Hybrid System light came on for my wife. The car was still running so she drove it home for me to look at. I hopped in and noticed the gasoline engine wasn't turning on. I took it for a spin and even when I floored the car the gas engine wouldn't turn on. Since the nearest dealership is 15 highway miles away I knew we weren't going to make it there on electric power so I had it towed.
The Toyota dealership called me the next day saying when they started the car the light was gone and the car ran fine. They did some troubleshooting and found nothing wrong. They said it might have been a glitch and to come get the car. Not even 3 hours later the light turns on again. Again the gasoline engine goes silent, but this time I didn't even make it a mile and the electric power shuts off as well! We coasted to a stop and had to have the car towed again. This happened out of nowhere and could have been a very serious safety situation had it not happened on the road we were on.
This time the Toyota dealership had a little more to say. They said that their diagnosis has determined that the inverter is shot and they will have to order a new one. They said this failure is extremely rare (the service guy I spoke with had never seen this issue).
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So I have a 1999.5 F350 diesel and the fuse panel under the steering wheel is acting up. I was driving my truck home the other night and I lost power and my truck shut off. I have had a problem in the past with the #30- 30 amp fuse ( controls the PCM and glow plugs from my understanding) that is under the steering wheel, I replaced the fuse and everything started working normally again. Until the other night when my truck shut off, so I replaced the fuse the truck drove again for 20 feet died again, I was able to hold the #30 fuse and allow my truck to start up again but would eventually killed the PCM and shut off again and would not start up due to what I believe the fuse location shorting it out and killing the power to the PCM preventing me from starting it up again.
I had my truck towed home and charged the battery and it started up fine the next morning. If I push on the #30 fuse my truck the shorts out and kills the power, I do not know if this is normal? The fuse is sitting loose in the fuse holder is there anyway making it fit tighter to prevent it from being so loose? I have read every other post online about the problems and tried everything they have recommended but still can not figure out what was wrong with my truck. I disconnected the fuel filter heater, and also the wastegate solenoid to see if that would prevent the truck from shorting out if I pushed the fuse it did not work.
What the problem could be causing the #30 - 30 amp fuse to be shorting out preventing everything from working? Or how to test the fuse panel and all the relays?
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I drove my 2005 Prius to work and parked, left it overnight, then the next night went to take it home and the fuel and gear lights are blinking, and the car won't start.
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Does the UK gen2 Tspirit have a dimmer control for the dash panel and steering wheel lights. I can control the MFD but the speedo is to dark with head lights on in daylight hours in poor visibility.
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2008 Prius recently lost acceleration (would only creep along) and soon stopped. Warning lights - red triangle with !, red split car on mid, check engine - came on. About 10 minutes later the car started and allowed my daughter to creep the last 1/4 mile home. DTC's - P0A3F and P2196. Was recently gassed up, so checked gas cap, thinking it may have set the oxygen sensor code. It was loose, tightened it. Pulled the EFI fuse for a couple minutes to reset the codes (not sure it did). Put the smart key back in and warning lights came on again. May have to take to dealer, but would like to have some notion as to what's causing this. Possibly related -- a couple weeks ago the 12V battery got drained overnight. Pulled it and recharged and everything seemed to be running fine.
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I have a 2001 prius jap import. On a trip it beeped and up came the triangle, check engine light and car with !. The car lost all power and the engine stalled when I pulled over. I plugged in my obd2 scanner and no codes except 3000. Took it to our local toyota dealer who confirmed that code. Had the battery swapped out and still it does the same except now no codes. The car has below normal pickup speed and I can hear the engine rev a little but it does not seem to make any difference. Seems all the power comes from the battery. It will stall when all the error lights come on.
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I just wanted to share my story here. Last week on a routine trip on I-5 warning lights started flashing indicating hybrid drive failure. The car automatically shifted into neutral and I was limping along down hill. Luckily I saw a downhill exit and had the foresight to turn off where to my horror I discovered that my brakes didn't work. So I had to coast to the bottom of the hill and again made a quick decision to turn into a slight uphill side street to force myself to a stop with the parking brake. At point the car completely died and I couldn't even shift into neutral to push it.
After towing it to AAA and avoiding a collision on I-5 (if I pulled into the shoulder without breaks I likely would have crashed into a retaining wall) and then not being smacked after I got it to a stop I was pretty shaken...I'm lucky to be alive.
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I have a 2005 Prius with 120,000 miles on it. Today the red triangle light and circle warning lights came on. The service department at my dealership said, "inverter converter losing function. No longer able to accurately control voltage". The car seems to be running the same as it always does.
Specific things I should have checked?
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I bought a 2004 that was hit in the front. I have it mostly put back together. However, after doing the major work I wanted to start the vehicle and move it. So I plugged in the main battery plug and re-hooked up the 12V battery. Then the dash lights lit up as well as a bunch of the idiot lights and I could hear the inverter making noise. When I push the power button, nothing.
I am at a loss because when I bought the vehicle it had a broken engine mount. When I was putting the car in neutral it tried to start and I didnt have all the dash lights lit up. Of course I turned it off immediately because of the engine mount. Now I have a bunch of lights on and no start.
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I own a 2007 Prius last Friday I was driving on the freeway when all of sudden the car died on me without any warning lights. There was a bad burning smell which later I realize it was from the inverter coolant pump. I was luckily able to mange to pull on side. Towing was another pain because the car wont turn (start) or acc so you can't shift to neutral and the front wheels were locked.
Took it to Toyota they refused to cover any work because inverter pump was replaced by the previous owner about 2 years ago. between that there is hardly 20k on it.
Now the car wont start. I checked the main fuse on auxiliary battery and its working fine. The interior lights are turning on, alarm and key fob works, power locks working. but it wont start.
I heard there is a fuse that will be tripped by the coolant pump it's 15A AM2 fuse. I don't know where is that fuse. I can have the pump replaced but need to know how to tun on the car. A local mechanic came to check and he said that main relay showing current only on battery side but not towards inlet (going to engine or car).
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So I have a 1999 F350 diesel and the fuse panel under the steering wheel is acting up. I was driving my truck home the other night and I lost power and my truck shut off. I have had a problem in the past with the #30- 30 amp fuse ( controls the PCM and glow plugs from my understanding) that is under the steering wheel, I replaced the fuse and everything started working normally again.
Until the other night when my truck shut off, so I replaced the fuse the truck drove again for 20 feet died again, I was able to hold the #30 fuse and allow my truck to start up again but would eventually killed the PCM and shut off again and would not start up due to what I believe the fuse location shorting it out and killing the power to the PCM preventing me from starting it up again. I had my truck towed home and charged the battery and it started up fine the next morning. If I push on the #30 fuse my truck the shorts out and kills the power, I do not know if this is normal?
The fuse is sitting loose in the fuse holder is there anyway making it fit tighter to prevent it from being so loose? I have read every other post online about the problems and tried everything they have recommended but still can not figure out what was wrong with my truck. I disconnected the fuel filter heater, and also the wastegate solenoid to see if that would prevent the truck from shorting out if I pushed the fuse it did not work.
What the problem could be causing the #30 - 30 amp fuse to be shorting out preventing everything from working? Or how to test the fuse panel and all the relays?
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I am new the forum but I wanted to get some information about the apparent turbo failure problem the 2012-2014 TDIs seem to be having. On other forums I have read numerous premature turbo failures. Also how long did it take to get the new parts and complete the repair. My car at this point will be in the shop for over a week. At the point when the car broke down I did not really know what was going on. The glow plug light was blinking and I immediately lost a significant amount of power. Do I need to worry about any internal engine damage from a blown turbo? I was able to get the car to the dealer at a very slow speed in a very short amount of time but this is my first diesel and first turbo so I could use some information.
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