Prius C :: Complete Shut Down While In Drive
Aug 29, 2012
So I've had my Prius C Two for about 2 months now. I was driving in a really crowded parking lot for so long that the battery drained and the car switched to gas mode from EV. We pulled up to the edge of the parking lot and had to wait a few minutes more. When I tried to proceed, the car had completely shut down (no power steering, A/C, etc.) The car was still in drive (had been the whole time) and we were rolling downhill. I had to stop completely, put it in park, and then turn the key again to restart it.
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My prius was reset due to HV battery being replaced, I need to pass the NY State inspection and for that I have to complete a Drive cycle.
I have followed the instructions in the service manual for Catalyst, O2 and Evap test. I put the car in inspection mode and idle for few min to warm up then drive it for 10-20 min while monitoring it with techstream the Catalyst and O2 showed Pass and Complete the Evap needed the car to cool down for 6 hours so did that but I am not sure if I am ready to go in or not.
The COMPLETE does not show any more for the catalyst or O2 even but it does say PASS for all 3 . What does this mean?
why does it say incomplete for the test that I already passed?
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The triangle, brake, vsc, CEL.
The brake and the vsc shut off after a short drive. Car seems to drive fine.
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I have a 2001 Ford F250 with 7.3L engine. It has 150,000 miles on it and ran like a top when I bought it four weeks ago. Had it inspected by a diesel mechanic, who gave me a thumbs up, said it was throwing some glow plug codes which I could address later on, and had an oil leak by the ICP sensor. The CEL was on, so I paid a diesel mechanic from a different shop put in a new ICP sensor. I drove it home 14 miles, parked it for about an hour, drove it 2.5 miles to the ranch where I keep my horses, and the truck completely shut down while idling. The batter light when on, and the truck went dead and rolled to a stop. The truck would crank over but not start. I was able to drag it and park it at the ranch, and got it start right up and drove it home in limp mode, sputtering, and trying to die.
Called my original mechanic, and drove it in to look at it. I addressed the glow plug codes with new glow plug controller install, replaced the wiring harness underneath the valve cover, to address any possible shorts. Drove it back out the ranch after bringing it home, and it died in the same exact spot. Was able to make it start and was able to limp it home. Tried to deliver it to the mechanic to look at again, stopped at the ranch on the way, and the truck died completely, couldn't get it to start. Let it cool a bit, still didn't start.
Called for a tow, and the tow truck driver couldn't get it start. Got it to the shop,and it started right up. It has roughly a quarter tank of fuel, and it sounds like it can't get fuel into the engine after it dies. The mechanic is not any codes on it, and can't get it to mess up on him. I am starting to think that it is the angle or speed of the driveway leading up to the ranch. I have to let it idle and slow before making a sharp right to cross over train tracks. I am terrified of having it die on me while I am driving it.
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Having issues with a 2014 shutting down. Was at a stop light the other day and car completely lost power and shut down. When this happened oil, engine, and battery light came on. Once I parked car and turned off, it restarted. The dealership acted like I had no idea what I was talking about and would like to have some information when I take it back to have this problem corrected the car is not even 2 years old and has 30,000 miles on it.
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So, after I lower with BC Coil-over and 20" wheels (Stagger). I feel my car vibrate at a complete stop and in Drive. But when I put in neutral it stop the vibrate. When I take off from a complete stop is fine no vibrate but when I let go of the gas and let it cruise, it vibrate....
AWD GS, after lowering and with stagger wheels but it seem like the driving vibrate after after I put these wheels on. I didn't notice when i have my stock wheels on. or was it just me and 1SLOGS? I did balance all 4 tires again, I have all the hub-centric rings on all 4 wheels too.
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I drive my solara pretty infrequently, but even so I am surprised by the way the battery drains to completely dead if I don't drive the thing for a week. 1 year old battery, presumably good per the folks at Schucks and its place in the price range, but if I don't actively drive the car - dead. It seems like there must be a bunch of electrical drain even when turned off, Also, when jumping (which is far too common an event) it doesn't work well unless I put the negative cord on the negative terminal instead of grounding it on the chassis like I typically do.
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2011, 2.0T, with 58,000 miles, and everything's perfect, nothing but synthetic oil changes and premium fuel. But, Over the last month, I get a new vibration when I come to a complete stop, and stay in Drive. Once I shift to Neutral, it naturally goes away, and it shifts normally. I've never done anything to the Tranny.
The car has always been like this but this new vibration is bad, I can feel the pulsing in the brake pedal and you can hear it in the engine. What's making me take it to the Dealer is when my wife drove it, she said she noticed it, I said it must be bad.
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1996 1500 4.3 19k - After a 3 or 4 block drive I shut truck off for 1/2 hour or so. Went to start and got this no start situation acting like it was either flooded or vapor lock. New battery, new alternator...did act like a flat spot in starter a couple of tries but otherwise normal starter action.
I let it sit for about another fifteen minutes...tried and it started right up? I have been told this is a problem with the distributor cap & rotor going bad and is a common problem. Is this correct? If so, how is this corrected. Does the whole distributor have to be replaced? Rebuilt? Does just the distributor cap and rotor need replaced?
Batt and Alt less than three months old.
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My 97 f-150 starts up every time.........the first time. After I drive for awhile and shut it off it gives me a hard time starting. It just cranks over but wont start. If I give it gas it catches and tries to start but dies out right away after I let go of the key. Sometimes after up to 10 tries and 20 minutes later it starts up again, so far! Also there is a gas smell, but I am thinking that's because of putting the gas pedal to the floor. could it be plugs? i bought it with 180,000 miles on it. I pulled a plug and it does look pretty rough so I am going to change em tomorrow.
The parts store calls out iridium plugs. the guy told me any plugs will work. said the only difference is the mileage you get out of em.
50,000 on regular plugs
100,000 on platinum
150,000 on iridium
Not sure that's the case but I bought platinum. I changed the plugs and wires and it runs great now. stopped for gas yesterday and still had to put the pedal to the floor for it to start. only one try and it started tho...... what next?
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I have had this for a year now. When I first heard it, I thought someone threw something at my vehicle. I would stop then be at the light then about a few seconds to a minute it sounds like a solenoid kicks out or kicks in... its pretty loud, my passengers even question it. I have taken it to the dealership 7 times now and I am getting frustrated as they do not hear anything each time. As I drive with them it doesnt do it... it seems it does it sporatically... Sometimes it does it after I have exited the vehicle and walking off, it goes through its normal electrical noises then clunk clunk... Strange. I have recorded a sound clip but they said they still have to hear it themselves and they believe it has something to do with the elecrical breaking system but they dont want to swap it out as its an expensive part as they want to make sure of it first... I think I am going to take it to another dealer..
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Now that the weather has warmed up, I'm using AC once in a while. Whenever it is running, when I come to a complete stop, I hear a groan that lasts for about 3 seconds. It vibrates through the brakes a bit. This is only once the car has stopped, and only when AC is on. It goes away after a couple seconds, and is guaranteed to come back on the next time I stop the car. Is this just the compressor cycling on and off?
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I notice the brakes are very grabby right before you come to a complete stop. This seems to occur more when this brakes are cold. Is this typical with the gen 2's? Mine in a 2005 if that makes a difference. So far with 2k miles on the car I'm not a big fan of the brakes, but everything else I love.
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I don't understand what this message means. I drove my 2005 Prius to the Emissions Testing station (CO) and they said the OBD wasn't "READY".
The CEL goes on and off 4 times a year. It stays on for months, then goes off. The dealership said to ignore it as they couldn't locate the issue.
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Just bought a new 'C.' 35k, and now 271k. After I come to a complete stop it makes a creaking sound like bad bed springs during hard and light breaking. I've baby this car, I love it, and I just want it to last for as long as it can. It's really annoying to hear every time after I come to a stop. Not before, not during -- right after (just like when you make a complete stop at the stop sign or red light, or just stopping in general).
This is supposed to be a brand new car. There's something wrong and it's not a normal thing for Prius's after you've start using it daily. I've never heard it before until today.
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I have about 05 with 110000 miles on car and have started to notice that the motor sounds like it is revving up when I come to a complete stop or even hyper miling. I have plenty of juice in battery Not Green and Not Orange. While at a complete stop if I switch from Park/drive/Neutral some times it will then shut off.
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I think it's possessed! My sisters vehicle, a 2002 Explorer with a 4.0 V-6, automatic, 2 wheel drive will just shut off. At first it acted like it would vapor lock. But it would start right away. then the a while later, (several months), it got where it would drop rpms and the engine shudders, sometimes not dying.
When this first started, the throttle body was cleaned, a new air filter installed, fuel pressure checked. Everything checked out and for a few days it ran fine. Then it started all over again. There has never been a code thrown. All of this goes on only when the ambient temp is above 70 deg.'s. below 70 deg.'s it runs perfect.
Last week it went to the mechanic again and a new crank speed sensor, fuel pump, and diagnostic done. He could not find anything wrong any where. Took it for a test drive and it dyed on the mechanic. Still no codes. What the problem might be? Every Mechanic that has looked at it has gave up, one even saying, " it's possessed."
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On the drive home tonight, I noticed a clicking/ ticking sound coming from the car when accelerating from a complete stop. I would accelerate slowly enough to keep the vehicle in EV mode for the duration of the acceleration. Not sure if this is normal.
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Really scary, had my son in the car. Dash read "Check hybrid system". Reading some posts make me think that it may just be the 12V. Had it towed to my house.
60k GEN3 2010 Prius III
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I've been noticing that when I brake more responsively, I feel a bump/notch right before a complete stop. It feels like something that has to do with the transmission.
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(CORRECTION: AM1 fuse blew, not ECU-IG)
(Correction 2: Update 6/3/2014 AM-2 fuse blew, not ECU-IG)
What caused my shutdown and the ECU-IG fuse to blow while driving normally? I want to get educated prior to the dealer's response.
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