question to the smart people out here in prius land. Plug in my scan tool and it shows the mileage as 4219 mile but yet the dash in the car show 4334 miles why would they both not be the same.
View 12 RepliesNothing is happening when I plug in my scan tool that I've used a million times before. I'm assuming it's a fuse but nothing listed on the fuse panel. Checked a few vague ones with no luck.
View 5 Replies2001.5 1.8t, I have this p0343 code when I used the scan tool at murrays or oreileys whatever the h they are now (it means something like cam angle sensor high input). The t-belt was due for service a while ago , am I looking at a sensor problem or a wiring problem or a timing/engine problem? How should I check and where? I hear the timing belt can be a pain on the 1.8s, I have done a mk4 trans and a bit of other stuff but I do have a lot going on right at the moment and I'm not sure if I have time. I have a feeling if I take it in for service they will probably find blow through from the turbo and pull the engine because of "sludge".
View 2 RepliesCar in question is a 2003 Camry XLE I4. On rare occasion when I try to start up the car, it would crank but doesn't start. Sometimes two or three hours later and it would start right up with no problem. This has been going on for months now.
Well today the car all of a sudden died on the freeway. It was running like usually and next thing I know, it just died. In all cases no check engine light pops up at all. I got it towed back to the shop and the mechanic tried to hook up a scan tool but it couldn't connect to the ECU. Also when the key is turn over to the "on" position before starting, no CEL pops up at all. All fuses and relays are good.
ETA : It turns out the wiring under the fuse box was bad. The fuse box and wiring were either replace or repair. Since this is an intermittent problems, we will see if this is indeed the fix after a couple of months.
Next on my list of needed repairs is new brake lines. The ones running along the frame are rusted pretty bad. I had a 89 F-150 bust a line once and it got real interesting so I would like to change these before that happens.
I have searched and still not gotten a clear answer as to whether I need to get a scan tool and do something with the ABS pump. I would like to know if the scan tool is necessary.
I am about 50 miles from El Paso and 350-400 from home, broken down on hwy right now, all the dash lights lit up and my scan gauge says p0a93 the inverter pump thing. Nothing has been worked on or messed with so i should have no air in the lines etc
Can I drive it like this to El Paso or home? Car seems to be running fine. Car is under toyota warranty so i don't want to screw anything else up.
Can I read oil pressure on my scan gauge II ? If so, how do I do it?
View 14 RepliesMy scan gauge has begun to go blank every minute or so. Any fix?
View 5 RepliesScan gauge II keep going blank !
View 4 RepliesI could have sworn that I read somewhere on here how you can use the Scan Gauge II to change the reverse beep, but like they always say I cant find it now.
View 12 RepliesI have 2012 Prius C, I want to monitor my transmission fluid temp with my scan gauge II. I watch the MG1 and MG2 temps, which can get very high, like 215 F. I hope this isn't the trans fluid temp as well.
View 5 RepliesPurchased a used 2005 Prius with 30,000 on the clock. Have put 5,000 miles on the car with no problems. Recently the check engine light came on and my Scan Gauge indicated a trouble code of "P0000". Cleared the code and four days and 500 miles later the check engine light returned with the same code. Car runs great even with the light on. Have check the fuel cap which was and is tight.
View 2 RepliesI have 1998 Plymouth neon. It does this more in the hot month than the cold month but I drive down the road and the dash cluster will go out no tach, speed, no gauge, mileage will not work but all dash light, signal light, high beam all will work.
It seems that when it cools off some, some time a minute sometimes a few minutes when it comes on the seat belt and airbag light come on or you can turn off the key for a few seconds and it will come on, bums will not make it go out or come back on.
What can it be?
Did my own 30k oil filter change today after taking it to the dealership for 10k and 20k. What do you know, they over torqued the crap out of the filter that I had to use my 1/2" breaker bar and all my strength to remove it. After all of that somehow the oil filter tool (the typical one) ended up getting stuck to the oil filter cap. It was at a slight angle so it must have shifted as I was trying to loosen it with the breaker bar.
Well, spent the next hour trying to separate them with no luck. Didn't want to damage the filter housing, and since the tool was stuck on there good just decided to put it back on with the tool attached. Any concerns about leaving it on, other than it randomly falling off one day?
Hopefully I'll still find the tool attached next time I change my oil, maybe pick up an extra oil filter cap and tool just in case. Btw I changed it myself at 5k before doing the free changes at dealership. Another reason I won't let them touch my car again...
I've had my XB 5-speed for nearly a year and 10000 miles. It as been dead on reliable and fun to drive. My gas mileage has varied from 26 to 31 in mixed driving and from 32 to 35 on the highway. I use premium fuel only because I can get it without ethanol. My fuel mileage also increased a couple of mpg due to getting the power robbing ethanol out. True it is probably not enough to offset the extra expense but I like not having the stuff in my car. My only dissatisfactions has been with the transmission gear ratios. They are way to low. This torquy engine could easily do with a ratio that would drop about 500 rpm for more relaxed highway cruising.
As it is, though, my XB will go up any hill or long grade without breathing hard! Another is the instrumentation. I don't mind the center mounted set-up but speedometer and trip meter for mpg ratings are both inaccurate. My speedo reads about 2.5 mph high and the fuel mileage read out has about the same error, also on the high side. I have the stock 16" tires. The clutch has a narrow engagement band and can be difficult to be smooth on. The car is fairly quiet, is comfortable and this years hot, humid summer has shown it has one of the best air conditioners I have ever experienced in a car. I thought it might be an electric unit rather than a belt driven compressor because there is absolutely no perceived drag when the compressor kicks on.
Tool that allows you to remove and replace the AC Schrader valves without evacuating the system?
View 19 RepliesI took my car to the mechanic last week to get inspected and it wouldn't scan for emissions. It just wouldn't scan.. I guess the computer wouldn't even register that the car was plugged in to it.
View 10 RepliesWe just purchased a 2007 Santa Fe Limited with the 3.3 V6 and AWD. It was in remarkable shape with 137k on the clock and everything appears to be in working order. Our only complaint is the TPMS light. This light seems to have a mind of its own. All tires are inflated properly and it's not really that cold here on Long Island these past few weeks, but the TPMS light comes on every now and then.
The first time it came on, my wife was driving on a bridge that had construction going on. It went off by itself a few minutes later. The light came on again the next time she passed the same spot and again it went off on its own. I've been reading about RF interference with the sensors and I think this is what is happening on the bridge.
Saturday we passed a fire house and the light came on again. We parked across the street and came back after 2 hours to find the light still on and remained on for the ride home and still on the next day. We had the Bluetooth adapter plugged into the cigarette lighter the whole time as we were using Pandora thru the factory radio. As a goof just to see what would happen, I removed the adapter from the plug and the TPMS light went off a couple of minutes later. I've used the adapter before and it was fine. Could it be it was interfering with TPMS once the system was tripped by the EMI?
How common is this and is there any way to diagnosis this with a scan tool, etc?
I went over a bump in the road today and now my car sounds like it has a tool box rattling around in the trunk. This is coming from only one side. I didnt have much time to play/look it over, but i am assuming something could be wrong with the suspension in the rear. I pushed on the side of the car some, nothing. I jumped on the truck some and it sure sounds like it is coming from the passenger side shock area.
My question is, is it ok to drive down the highway some ways? I already finished a trip on the highway going about 55 for 5 miles and then a few more on some back roads. Should I be driving this car?
Secondly, bumps really bring out the slam and rattle noise. Some of the turns sound like washers rattling around. What it is? 1995 buick regal with 160,000..
Is there a way to reset or delete all failure codes without a diagnostic tool? For example by disconnecting the batteries? Is it even a good idea?
It seems that my Phaeton has got some codes saved that prevent certain system to work properly, for example the RDKs.
My 18" Austin alloys come with black Volkswagen-branded bolts with 9-point "starburst" openings in the center. They look pretty common based on photos I'm seeing on the Web.
Thing is, I don't see anything in the tool kit that looks to match up with these bolts should I, or a mechanic or roadside service, need to remove a wheel(s).
I have the standard tool kit and it has all the tools shown in the manual EXCEPT the "Adapter for anti-theft wheel bolt (if equipped)." Should I have one, or am I missing something else obvious here?