Prius (Gen 1) :: Code P3006 Appearing After Battery Replacement
Dec 2, 2015
I have a 2002 primus and got the p3006 code.
Engine would Rev and got all the lights. I figured it was the battery and decided to get a Dorman replacement. I replaced the battery but turning it on I would get the p3006 code after a few seconds. No lights at that point. I would drive about 10 miles and would get all the lights and a second p3006 code. I would clear the code and it would get rid of lights and car would operate normally.
Sometimes the lights would come on and the brake light would also come on and the engine would rev. sometimes when that happened I would get code p3012.
could the battery be OK and it be some other problem? I thought p3006 was the bad battery code.
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Our 2002 just ticked over 200,000 miles and now has the dreaded triangle and DTC P3006 (uneven SOC in HV battery). It putters around, but the MFD is lit up with alarming icons. I cleared the code once, drove two miles, and turned the car off. On the way back home it came back on. We have owned it a few years, the previous owner was a mechanic who bought it at auction, replaced some of the cells and flipped it.
I can access the block voltages, but they don't point to any obvious culprit. I'm also using EngineLink with a PID list adapted from Gen 2.. so the formulas might not be appropriate. I checked both running and engine off, and both times Block 6 was slightly lower.. on the order of .02v. From what I understand, it takes .3v difference to throw the code. Of course the only real test would be under load.. so I don't know what to make of this. But, am I correct in believing that P3006 specifies a problem in block 6, or is that a general code?
The DeltaSOC is 51%. Again, I can't vouch for the math, but this seems pretty high.
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I replaced a couple modules in my battery pack several months ago and it was working great until a few weeks ago I drove it after it had been sitting a couple days and it threw code P3006. I logged all the block voltages with Torque while I put the battery under load and found a potential issue but I'm not sure how relevant it is. Block 16 on on line 283 drops from 1624 to 1296(the refresh rate is rather poor so it's about 7 seconds between readings) while the other blocks only drop to about 1450. Is this significant or are anomalies like this normal? If this is an issue, how would I go about fixing it? I don't have the equipment to do a full rebalance, just a single channel charger. I did make sure that the voltages on the modules I replaced were consistent with the pack.
I plotted the data here.
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I just purchased a 2002 Prius from a government auction. The car had to be jump started at the auction yard. It ran for awhile and then died before I could put it on the dolly. I jumped it again, load it and towed it home. When I got home I jumped it and drove it off. I tried to charge the 12V battery on a 2 amp current, but it wouldn't charge so I replaced it with a new battery. Now the car won't start at all. Don't worry, I did not reverse polarity at anytime. Here's what is happening now....
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I have a 2001 Prius with about 110K which I have owned since new. It displayed the hybrid warning light (as well as check engine) 2 weeks ago and I took the car in to the local dealer.. After a little muddling around they came up with codes indicating that the computer for the battery was going. I purchased that Part Number: 8989047030 Part Description: electrical, battery, computer H.V. SUPPLY. and the dealer installed that part a couple of days ago.
Now the following codes (and only these codes according to the dealer) are displaying and indicating faults in the main battery: P3006 and P3000.
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I have a 2001 toyota prius with 130k miles on it. 4 days back the triangle of death showed up on the dash board. The car would run fine for 3-4 miles, then brake light (on the dashboard) would turn on.
Sometimes the car would run fine with the brake lights, other times it would really slow down. Turning the car off and then on again gives me another 3-4 miles before the same story repeats again.
This triangle of death used to appear earlier too(6-7 month back), stay for few hours and then magically disappear, but this time I m not so lucky.
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I used an ELM327 to read codes with my BMW so when the check engine light came on my 2009 Prius I wanted to see what may be going on. It came back as a P0441. Going back to my BMW, it had a similar issue and changing the gas cap removed the code. So now I have a new cap on but the code remains.
I have a PCV on hand and plan on replacing that in the coming week.
I do not see where the PCV valve or spark plugs for that matter have been changed up to this point.
What I should be looking at with the P0441 code?
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I need to get my 2002 Toyota Prius inspected. The Warning/check engine light came on so I ran a diagnostic (OBDII) on it and came up with P3006 Fuel Air Metering Auxillary Emission controls. What does this mean? Previously codes indicating cylinder misfire came up but those cleared.
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I have a 2001 Prius with 210,000 miles. The inverter and traction battery were replaced last year. I started getting triangle and check engine lights about a month ago and the scan tool read p3191 p3006 p0300. The car would barely start in the mornings and the dash lights would be dim. I replaced the 12v aux battery today and all the symptoms went away. Driving home the triangle/check engine light popped on again and I stopped at Orielly's to use their scan tool. It now only reads P3006. I called a local mechanic who suggested to drive it a bit and clear the codes because the battery needed to equalize. Is this true?
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I have a 2002 Prius with 70,000 miles on it. The car broker replaced one cell which lasted about 15oo miles.
Code P3022 tells me I need a replacement battery.
The internet tells me Gen 2 and 3 cells are better than Gen 1.
Luscious Garage says don't buy a rebuilt battery with old cells, buy a new one.
Toyota tells me they only sell batteries with rebuilt old cells from Gen 2.
One person told me he would sell me a brand new Gen 1 battery with Gen 1 cells manufactured by Toyota. Does this sound right? or rebuild Gen 1 Batteries with NEW Gen 2 or 3 cells?
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I'm getting the 14 blink code on my Hymotion LED indicating that my 12v battery is needing replacement. My question is that the car seems to run fine with the exception of my mileage is low. I'm ordering the Optima replacement. Can I still drive around for another week without worry?
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Well, just replaced my HV battery, hooked everything up (I think) and tried to start it. ALL the caution lights came on and stayed on. This is the code that showed up on the reader. P0AE0. The battery was refurbished and I changed over my Computer module and the contact posts. Everything is tight, and I compared my pre-takedown pics to the post-repair work and it all looks correct.
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2015 with 35,200K on the OD. All stock! Hasn't been modded in any way.
I've been throwing a P04DB ,only, code off and on for awhile now. And now, it's constant. I know there is a couple of other codes that can go along with this but I'm not getting them.
I've somewhat started tracking when the code would return after clearing it. In the last 2 days, I've cycled the engine on and off with the key only and no code.
It appears, that the only time the P04DB code sets is when I use the remote start. I'm still testing this theory but so far that's what seems to be happening.
I'm wondering if there is a slight voltage change when using the remote start that is causing this issue? I've read where this issue is not only a 6.7 issue or even just limited to Ford.
The other thing that really sucks about this issue is if the sensor is bad you just can't get a new sensor, you have to buy the whole crank case vent filter housing too. Brilliant I say, just brilliant.
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Check Engine light is on but car seems to be running OK (getting 40mpg). I do notice that the car seems to rely on the Gas more than the battery than it used to.
My question is, will MPG start to drop gradually until one day the Traction Battery is just dead or will the car go from running well to not running well in minutes.
My shop says it needs a battery but it's not in the budget at the moment so I need to see if I can postpone it until the new year.
2003, 145k, just bought it 3 months ago
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Here is my situation- back in 2014 I had a local mechanic replace my HV battery and 12V battery after the Red Triangle of Death. Well yesterday that triangle reared its ugly head again! (and cruise control stopped working) Since this mechanic has 3 year, 36,000 mile warranty on all parts and labor, I figured this should be covered. I drove my wife's car to work today, then after work drove the Prius over there to find them closed until Friday!
So I had the guys at Advanced Auto read the codes for me and got P3006, C1213, and C1259. I have done extensive reading and researching, much of it on this site on these codes, but my main question is this:
I commute about 20 miles one way, and on certain days my wife commutes 10 to 22 miles the opposite direction. There are 3 days we go opposite ways this week, and at least one that is completely unmanageable without 2 cars.
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I'm just wondering if two recent events are related ..
On my 2006 Prius (w/ 198,000 miles), the oil cap worked its way off on a recent road trip. It probably ran like that for 30 minutes or so before I smelt the oil and pulled over.
When I checked it, the oil cap was on top of the engine and the engine and inside of the engine compartment was covered in oil spray.
I replaced the oil cap and wiped down the threading on the engine and snuggled it down. The engine itself was about 1/2 quart low (this engine has a preexisting problem where it consumes 1 quart every 800 miles or so I had just added 2 quarts that day for whatever reason).
I'm now seeing spotting on the floor of the garage. The engine itself looks "wet". I'd wiped it down as best I could, but am concerned for oil now appearing beneath the car.
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I would like to understand what this reports mean.
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Just this week the red warning triangle is appearing intermittently. I live over 200 miles from a dealer or Toyota certified shop- Light seems to come on only when I push the brakes moderately hard and is on for just a second then disappears- beeps when it comes on, too. I called the Toyota dealer and their answer is to "just bring it in"-- not able to "just bring it in" as it's again, 200+ miles away. One of the service reps said it might be low brake fluid- but the actual service tech said it was a failing ECU most probably - seems to be driving fine- should I be panicking about now?
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Came out one morning went to start car, daily driver, 180k, completely dead. Figured since battery was never replaced went to Toyota and got a new battery. Left on vacation came back 3 weeks later, installed battery, went to start car and still completely dead. No dome light, no brake lights, no head lights, no anything.
Checked battery, full charge under load. Tried to jump start (correct polarity) using my 4x4 Dodge Ram 2500
Never had a single issue, warning light etc. I am going to get my multimeter out on Monday and check the visible fuses.
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I just got a 2004, it did have a bad 12V battery which I did replace, still not charging.But First it is making a loud noise under the hood sounds like towards the right side.when I accelerate starts at 18 to 20 miles per hour. Tried sitting still with car in gear and pushing accelerator can not get it to make the noise that way, without the wheels rotating.
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I have a 2003 with ~230,000 miles on it. We are the 4th owners, and have owned it for 7 years / 120,000 miles.
7 months ago, in December, I experienced my first red triangle of death. It happened on a warm start, but drove fine. Took it to O'Riley, they used an Innova 3120 to check the codes, and these are the 3 that came back (P1455, P0420, P3191). After starting the car the 4th time, the warnings went away, and all seemed well. It happened again about 3 months ago while on the highway, and again went away after 4 starts. At the time I was not too terribly worried about emissions codes, we live in an area that doesn't require testing, but the 3191 was the more ominous one.
The red triangle came on again two days ago, about 5 minutes after a cold start, and again today, about 5 minutes after a warm start. I do not know what the current codes are, but I will be taking it to a store tomorrow to get them checked. I had an oil change 4 days ago. I checked the intake manifold for any sign of liquid (I saw several posts in RE to the 3191 of that being a possibility), and it is as clean as our '05s. I checked my service history, and didn't have anything done the first two times this happened.
If the same codes persist, I'm assuming the problems could be cheap to almost what the car is worth (~$2,500).
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