Prius (2001-03) :: 2002 - Code P3006 And Won't Start?
Jun 3, 2016
I just purchased a 2002 Prius from a government auction. The car had to be jump started at the auction yard. It ran for awhile and then died before I could put it on the dolly. I jumped it again, load it and towed it home. When I got home I jumped it and drove it off. I tried to charge the 12V battery on a 2 amp current, but it wouldn't charge so I replaced it with a new battery. Now the car won't start at all. Don't worry, I did not reverse polarity at anytime. Here's what is happening now....
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I replaced a couple modules in my battery pack several months ago and it was working great until a few weeks ago I drove it after it had been sitting a couple days and it threw code P3006. I logged all the block voltages with Torque while I put the battery under load and found a potential issue but I'm not sure how relevant it is. Block 16 on on line 283 drops from 1624 to 1296(the refresh rate is rather poor so it's about 7 seconds between readings) while the other blocks only drop to about 1450. Is this significant or are anomalies like this normal? If this is an issue, how would I go about fixing it? I don't have the equipment to do a full rebalance, just a single channel charger. I did make sure that the voltages on the modules I replaced were consistent with the pack.
I plotted the data here.
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I have a 2001 toyota prius with 130k miles on it. 4 days back the triangle of death showed up on the dash board. The car would run fine for 3-4 miles, then brake light (on the dashboard) would turn on.
Sometimes the car would run fine with the brake lights, other times it would really slow down. Turning the car off and then on again gives me another 3-4 miles before the same story repeats again.
This triangle of death used to appear earlier too(6-7 month back), stay for few hours and then magically disappear, but this time I m not so lucky.
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I have a 2001 Prius with 210,000 miles. The inverter and traction battery were replaced last year. I started getting triangle and check engine lights about a month ago and the scan tool read p3191 p3006 p0300. The car would barely start in the mornings and the dash lights would be dim. I replaced the 12v aux battery today and all the symptoms went away. Driving home the triangle/check engine light popped on again and I stopped at Orielly's to use their scan tool. It now only reads P3006. I called a local mechanic who suggested to drive it a bit and clear the codes because the battery needed to equalize. Is this true?
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I have a 2002 primus and got the p3006 code.
Engine would Rev and got all the lights. I figured it was the battery and decided to get a Dorman replacement. I replaced the battery but turning it on I would get the p3006 code after a few seconds. No lights at that point. I would drive about 10 miles and would get all the lights and a second p3006 code. I would clear the code and it would get rid of lights and car would operate normally.
Sometimes the lights would come on and the brake light would also come on and the engine would rev. sometimes when that happened I would get code p3012.
could the battery be OK and it be some other problem? I thought p3006 was the bad battery code.
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Pulling into parking lot and the triangle and exclamation light appear on dash. Drive about an additional hundred feet with what felt like lower power and no noises.
- Check 12V after about an hour and it reads 12.4 volts.
- Read codes and get P3125 sub code 325.
- Temperatures and HV battery numbers all looked good.
- Clear codes and immediately code comes back with no start, nothing. Did this many times.
This code and sub code lead to the inverter failing. Being that there was no noise as a MG2 stator failure this also leads to an inverter failure right as the MG1 motor starts the engine? Inverter pump still running good as it was recently replaced along with ATX fluid. Within the last two weeks two HV modules have been replaced.
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I need to get my 2002 Toyota Prius inspected. The Warning/check engine light came on so I ran a diagnostic (OBDII) on it and came up with P3006 Fuel Air Metering Auxillary Emission controls. What does this mean? Previously codes indicating cylinder misfire came up but those cleared.
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Check Engine light is on but car seems to be running OK (getting 40mpg). I do notice that the car seems to rely on the Gas more than the battery than it used to.
My question is, will MPG start to drop gradually until one day the Traction Battery is just dead or will the car go from running well to not running well in minutes.
My shop says it needs a battery but it's not in the budget at the moment so I need to see if I can postpone it until the new year.
2003, 145k, just bought it 3 months ago
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Our 2002 just ticked over 200,000 miles and now has the dreaded triangle and DTC P3006 (uneven SOC in HV battery). It putters around, but the MFD is lit up with alarming icons. I cleared the code once, drove two miles, and turned the car off. On the way back home it came back on. We have owned it a few years, the previous owner was a mechanic who bought it at auction, replaced some of the cells and flipped it.
I can access the block voltages, but they don't point to any obvious culprit. I'm also using EngineLink with a PID list adapted from Gen 2.. so the formulas might not be appropriate. I checked both running and engine off, and both times Block 6 was slightly lower.. on the order of .02v. From what I understand, it takes .3v difference to throw the code. Of course the only real test would be under load.. so I don't know what to make of this. But, am I correct in believing that P3006 specifies a problem in block 6, or is that a general code?
The DeltaSOC is 51%. Again, I can't vouch for the math, but this seems pretty high.
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I would like to understand what this reports mean.
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I've got a shop in Az. One of my customers has an 02 with 489,000 miles. The problem is when you drive it about 5-10 miles the "red temp" light comes on then it starts to lose power. Pull over and shut it off for about a minute or two then it runs fine for another 5-10 miles. took it to dealer today and they said it needs a trans axle.
My question is why would it need a trans if it runs good until the "red temp" light comes on? Could it be just a sensor? What has gone bad?
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I picked up a 2002 Prius with 164k, still on original battery. It giving code P3030 which evidently relates to a high voltage line snapped on the bus bar.
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CEL, Triangle Displayed for the second time, Engine goes to READY, ICE starts and shuts down when I assume adequate charging is reached. However, OBD2 code thrown is P1636. Drives very well from what I can tell. But she just reported the CEL & Triangle went on again and she feels it is driving rough, like it is struggling.
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I own a 2001 prius and work on a lot of toyota . I am looking at friend's 02 prius that he got with a bad inverter . To make a long story short I checked the codes before we started and got code 3025 which can translate to a bad inverter if I am correct. The inverter pump was bad so we changed it and flushed the used inverter after we put it in. The "new" inverter seems to be working ,but we still have a major problem with the transmission I believe. The car will move , but it shudders very bad when you put it into drive and reverse both.
It appears like the engine is turning over with the transmission ,when the engine is hot and shut down and running on battery only. Yes the check engine light came on ,but have not had time to pull them yet.I know ,I know .its hard to give me info with no codes. The big question was ,is it possible for the engine to rotate when you drive the car in battery mode? It sounds like the engine is actually rotating and the engine will also rock back and forth with the car driving real slow. I know this will end up needing a transmission.
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My 2002 Prius died the other day. Getting DTC P3125 when I ran it through my scanner, but I don't have an advanced enough one to get the sub-codes. It's got 215,000 Miles on it, so I would expect something major to be happening at this point.
Here's a detailed description of what happened --- I was driving down the freeway the other day and started noticing my car was sputtering a little bit and losing a slight amount of power. I pulled over to a restaurant to say hi to a friend; when I came back out I started the car and the check engine and battery lights came on. About 10 more miles down the freeway the car started heavily limping and barely was able to get me off the freeway, then the car completely died. When I would start it back up it would die in about 5 to 10 seconds. The 12v auxiliary battery, not the main hybrid battery, had completely died.
I figured it might have been just a dead old battery that needed replacement so I put in another new one. It ran amazingly for about five minutes around the parking lot, then the same thing happened again. It completely died just like before.
The 12v battery isn't getting re-supplied with the juice it needs. Something's wrong in there.
The either the inverter is shot, it's just overheating due to a faulty coolant pump, or the MG2 generator isn't putting juice back into the 12v system.
I checked the fluid reservoir. It looks like it's flowing, but there is a few bubbles floating to the top of the fluid. Is that normal?
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Suddenly today, I get a "Check Engine" light while driving. Scangauge II says it's a P1430 error. I found two different suggestions, but where these are located on the car.
P1430-Electric Air Pump secondary Failure
P1430 -Vacuum Sensor for Adsorber and Catalyst System Circuit Malfunction
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I bought a 2003 that I was told was running it wasn't but it was cheap and only had 128000 miles on it so I bought it anyway. When I turn the key I here what sounds like the MG1 wants to engage but then nothing. Checked the codes, got 3125, cleared it, tried again, same thing. 12v battery is strong and everything 12v, PS, PB, lights etc., work fine with the key on so I don't suspect an inverter problem, but I admit I am not an expert so I'm willing to be schooled.
I don't have a scan tool that will give me sub codes but since this is gen 1 number 3, I also have 2 2001's that my wife and I drive, maybe I should look into purchasing one. I have an extra CVT out of a 2003, that was t-boned, that I know is good and I can swap it out if that is what I need to do. But before I do that is their anything else I should test to make sure I am on the right track?
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I was at Walmart today and FINALLY remembered to get a couple keys made for my 02 prius. I have been taking somewhat of a gamble considering I only got 1 key when I bought it.
I tried the keys in the trunk. Cha Ching! Unlocked and locked the doors. Cha Ching! Put the key in the ignition and turned it. Cha Ching! Went to start the car and Nothing!!
I could turn the car into accessory and into the run position, but it would not put the car in ready mode. At first, I thought my battery died. I took a deep breath and put the "Toyota" key in and she started right up...
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I own a used 2002 Prius and have only been driving it for about two months. In the last week it has given me some trouble on start up. I turn the key, but the engine will not start. Unlike some of the other comments I've seen here, I'm not getting any warning messages when my car won't start. I turn the key and the dash lights either come on half lit or not at all, the computer screen doesn't light at all when this happens. If I hold the key in the start position for a few (up to twenty seconds) it will eventually turn over and start, but that seems to be draining the big battery and doesn't seem like the best way to start the car. This happens about 2 out of every three times I go to start the car and it doesn't seem to matter how long I've had it parked - could be an hour or overnight. Conversely, it could be sitting for a day and a half and start without issue. All in all, there seems to be no obvious condition that would cause this, and I was curious to know what I should troubleshoot and in what order. As with many people these days, money is scarce and I don't have the money or time to keep it in the shop for a week for diagnostics, especially when it might be something I can easily fix on my own.
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My Prius is in better condition than when I started, the following condition remains a mystery.
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I pulled the traction battery...remanned it with great success computer very happy with results... drove it for a week. Took it to Walmart to have oil changed... Got in car , started fine...new oil made motor even smoother....then in 200 yards at traffic light , motor died with unusual sound... pulled over and restarted...but would die. Lights all over dash on.
made it back to oil bay...engine would not restart.
pushed inside and would start and then die... then was rattling when dying
checked aux battery with testers , both indicated dead cell 10.25 volts
tried to substitute a new battery via heavy jumpers... got it to start then die..,..then no try at all
I have read forums ,,,that indicate after 3 tries on a dead aux battery , computer will immobilize it
Have tried replacing with a new lawn tractor battery .but seems the car is immobized . Read codes with Mini VCI, and was able to clear all codes but the immobilizer code.
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