My 2005 Prius just killed on me while driving, couldn't put car in neutral, had to get towed. Where the gears supposed to be it just shows blocks. Radio works but that's it. Went test 12 v auxiliary battery and it tested fine. When I place smart key in slot radio won't come on nor flashing lights on dash but if I hold key in my hand dash lights flash and I can power radio.
View 10 RepliesPurchased my first VW. I bought a 2003 IY 20th AE with 83k mi.
Two days ago, i'm picking up a friend at their house and as i go to take off from a complete stop- 1st gear revs up as if the car were in neutral, same thing with 2nd gear. 3rd-6th work normally and so does reverse. I called the dealership and they guy says that since the car was bought 'As Is' he can do nothing for me, but try and get me his price on the repair (which i think is complete BS).
I've had a couple people try and tell me a few things that could be causing the problem, like throw out bearing, or maybe the shift fork. i would say that i know a little bit about cars, but i've mainly worked on honda's or other japanese cars so i feel a little lost under the hood of a vw still.
My 1992 chevy k1500 blazer full size is having trouble shifting from 1st and 2nd and 2nd to 3rd. I reset the linkage it did fine for a day and now it's doing the same thing but it almost goes into neutral while shifting into some gears. And seems to lack power, the 92 doesn't have cyanoids and the transmission was redone 2 years ago when I got the truck. Could this have anything to do with the fuel filter? I know the transmission isn't bad. The Rpms are shooting up way too high.
View 1 RepliesCame out this morning and after letting the car warm up, went to shift into gear and was unable to get car to go from neutral to any of the gears. If I turn the car off, shift into any gear, and then turn the car on - then I can drive in the gear that I am currently in. As soon as I shift from any gear back into neutral, it will not let me shift into another gear while the motor is running. I have looked at some troubleshooting and even called a local mechanic who was baffled by the problem. I don't' know if it is the synchonizers, clutch control cable, or the clutch itself...
View 6 RepliesToday the left middle air vent in my 2006 Prius (the vent immediately to the left of the display/radio) suddenly stopped working. Or more accurately, the air flow suddenly became almost non-existent. All of the other vents work properly. This occurs regardless of the air flow setting.
The oak trees above our driveway are shedding leaves by the hundreds now, so I'm wondering if a leaf is blocking the flow. But is it possible for just one of the vents to become clogged this way?
My real question: is fixing this problem something that I can try on my own, or is getting access to the air vent something that I should leave up to a repair shop?
Just had all the engine mounts replaced in our 2004 Hyundai Elantra with 115,000 miles. Something new has emerged: When stopped with the engine running, there is a loud vibration in Drive, Reverse and Park, but not in Neutral. What do you think is up with this?
View 2 RepliesI had been waiting to fix my explorer for a long time. The "previous owner" I will call him knowingly sold me a vehicle with a bad tranny without disclosing it... long story. To get to the important part, it had the common 2/3 shift flare. I dropped the pan, filter, and valve body, making sure to use a template and put the bolts where they go. Then i took the valve body to the work bench and replaced the gasket, which was surprisingly not blown. After more looking around, I realized the previous owner had already had the fix done. I tightened the EPC 1/4 turn and reassembled the tranny. When i started it, it was stuck in first gear. PRN21 all went forward (park just revved a bit due to the park lockout.)
I tore it back apart and found that the plunger on the side of the valve body was stuck in the 1st gear position. I pushed it back out and cleaned it up so it moved freely. Then I reassembled the tranny using new fluid again.
After that the tranny was stuck in neutral. I dropped the pan again today, and tightened the valve body bolts and made sure my solenoids are tight. Filled it back up slowly with the engine running. It shifted into gear for a second (tried to go forward while it was in reverse though). Then it was again stuck in neutral in all the gears again.
I took my car to a shop today to have some engine stuff checked out. One of the mechanics noticed the vacuum levels would drop to 28-30 hg when changing gears or going into neutral. Is this normal?
View 2 RepliesMy low miles (under 50k) 1999 Ranger has a 5-speed manual transmission. One morning, I could not move it. The shift lever shifted, but the gears were locked. No forward, no reverse, and it wouldn't roll in neutral. Eventually, I popped the clutch, and, with a loud BANG! restored itself.
Background: I had rolled the car up tot the curbing in my driveway, so the wheels touched, then shut it off (in gear) and finally set the emergency brake. I'm guessing that this caught the gears in a way that caused the problem.
Yes, it's running just fine now. What happened?
I was driving on the highway last night when it was like somebody dropped my transmission into neutral. I was cruising at 50mph slight hill. There was no noise or any thing. Now I have nothing.
It's a 2005 f350 4x4 automatic
I can only assume I'll be needing a new transmission but I am hopeful of a small problem...
how to remove the AC vents without breaking them? When I turned my AC on today it sounded like there was something blocking this vent and restricting airflow. It's very annoying and I'm not really sure how to go about trying to get in there to unblock the vent.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2010 GMC 3500 Savanah van with 6.0 motor. No heat in van. Engine operating temp is normal. Heater hose into core is hot. Hose coming out is barely warm. I am of course hoping for another explanation other then blocked heater core. The truck only has 45k miles. I am ready to backflush , but wondering if there can be any other explanation. A/C works normal.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2001 Lincoln Towncar with 122k on it. The heater went out this winter and I took it to a guy that replace the blower motor. The blower was not the problem. He then replaced the main control unit in the dash. That made the blower work on all speeds as I can hear it running. The problem is, there is NO air movement from any of the vents on any settings. When switched to def, vent, heat I can hear it switching but nothing happens and I have a complete lack of airflow. I looked for a filter on the firewall that may be blocked and it appears to be missing, or this car doesn't require one?
View 7 RepliesHow to check this fan and its operation on my V10 ... I have put off the re-map until I get this resolved as they may not be happy putting it on the rolling road for the re-map with such a defect.
View 6 RepliesI just traded my MKIV GTI yesterday for an R32. Super happy.
But I have a question, Should I put in new tranny fluid? cause when I try to go fast and go from 1st to 2nd it gets blocked, but if I'm going slow and slowly feather the clutch it goes into the second fine.
I am working on a friends Neon and he been having an issue with constant overheating even through he has replaced the thermostat, the radiator, water pump and related hoses. However, he is missing the cap to the coolant tank and his heater core hoses are blocked, both incoming and outgoing. Could the blocked hoses be causes it to over heat?
View 1 RepliesI have found indicate blocked drains for the sunroof, cabin air filter and battery etc. - all related to rain (we have had no rain for a week but have we been using our a/cs!).
The water seems to be coming in from around the lower left corner of the glove box (the glove box itself is dry) - I assume I have a blocked drain - where it is and how to access/clean it?
So I just picked up a 08 STL. I noticed that it doesn't get a lot of airflow out of the vents or floor. I initially thought that it was door actuators. I checked the vacuum at all of them and they all cycled as required.
I also checked the blend door, and the fresh air doors as well. They all cycled as desired. When I was checking my fresh air door with the borescope, I noticed a layer of... insulation maybe? on top of the inlet for the blower. So I removed the blower, and the picture below is looking up into the housing. Is that supposed to be there? It appears extremely dense, so I am led to believe that's what is causing my flow issues.
If it does not belong, how to remove it? Where is the fresh air inlet on this thing?
Full size : [URL] .....
I have a '94 E4OD trans in my '53 F100. It uses an analog MLPS for the gear selection indicator, Neutral Safety Switch, and Backup light.
My MLPS Neutral Safety Switch shows continuity in Neutral, but not in Park, I need to be able to energize the starter solenoid in both Park & Neutral.
Shouldn't the MLPS show continuity in both Park & Neutral?
I drive a 1999 Subaru Legacy Outback.I had a cracked evap canister, so I went to the junkyard and grabbed another. I installed it, but had problems filling the gas tank. It would fill a few seconds, then shut off. So, I got home, pulled the evap canister, and blew through each of the three ports. Two of them had air flow in and out to each other, the third was blocked. Checking the ops diagram, looks like that port runs to the intake manifold. Should it be blocked (has a check valve or something), or should it have airflow?
View 2 RepliesI have an 01 Mercury Cougar Sport Coupe that we bought from a friend for not too much, just to use as a daily driver. It's got a lot of miles on it, but it still gets good mileage, which combined with the fact that we didn't pay much for it makes it an okay car for around town.
Here's the problem. I live in Wyoming where it's winter nine months out of the year, and the heater core is apparently blocked. I made it all through last winter with this problem, but now it's intolerable. The kids call the car "the Red Icicle". My mechanic diagnosed the problem as a blocked heater core and tells me the only solution is to replace it, which costs something like $500. I can't work on the car as everything is too jammed under the hood to get access to anything.
Do I really need to replace the heater core? The whole car isn't worth much. Is there something I can put in the cooling system that will unblock the core reliably?