I need to replace tail light assembly on 2005 Prius. Some instructions say you should disconnect negative cable on battery before doing this, then do some initialization after reconnecting the battery. Is it necessary to disconnect the battery to change out the tail light assembly? If so, what is the initialization process that must be done?
View 2 RepliesI was just wondering... I am in the navy so i'm called to go away quite often sometimes for extended periods.
I have read that the 12V battery will discharge itself if it the car is not being used frequently because it has the memory for everything (radio channels, time, trip meters, etc)
My question is how long is it safe for me to just leave the car parked in my driveway without disconnecting anything and when should i disconnect it?
My 2005 prius will not start. We had some body work done to it after a deer ran into me. They did a small amount of welding and had disconnected both batteries. Now the car will not start. It can be put in auxiliary mode but if you try to start it with your foot on the brake, it flashes some lights for a few seconds and then goes dead. Is the hybrid battery too low to start the car? It was pretty low. before the batteries were disconnected. Or did they possibly do something wrong when they disconnected the hybrid battery? Final question would be do they have to do some reprogramming after disconnecting the hybrid battery?
View 11 RepliesI had the reverse and seat belt beeps changed by the dealer before I took delivery. Now I want to install some mods which would entail disconnecting the 12-volt battery. With pre-2010 Prii the beeps would go back to the default settings. Will this happen on the 2010+? I don't want to make another trip to the dealer.
View 10 RepliesI have a 1999 vw Passat i have to say i love it but sometimes it pisses me off ok well i have this problem i disconnected my battery because i was trying to reset my cpu and now my damn car wont start .
View 4 RepliesI just bought a '12 Camry SE I4 about 6 months ago. It stalls at first startup after disconnecting and reconnecting the battery. After the first start and stall it will start normally. A pending code will come up P1604 'Startability Malfunction.' The code doesn't have a real definition other than the engine failed to start. It has a new AGM battery, serpentine belt, and the alternator passed a bench test. Had this problem with the 2.5L I4 or the 3.5L V6? Is this normal?
View 8 RepliesI disconnected my negative terminal on my 2007 Avalon to remove the radio. I eneded up having an incorrect connector for what I was doing so I reinstalled the factory radio back into the car after having it out all of about 20 minutes. The only connectors I touched were the two attached to the vent casing around the radio and the ones plugged into the radio. After reconnecting the negative cable, I see that my driver window no longer goes down automatically with the long push of the button.
My front passenger window will also not go down with the driver side controls. (it will with the control on its own door). The rear windows work fine with the driver side controls. Also, my sunroof will not auto open or auto close with the long push. It will open, but I have to keep it pushed down until it is done. Is there something I just need to reset since I unhooked the battery? I remember something like this happening in my 4runner in the past.
I have a 2006 Pontiac Vibe. Yesterday my Check Engine light came on while driving. It's done this before and randomly gone away. My car has been in the shop twice in the past month for routine maintenance.
The light annoys me, so I disconnected the battery and reconnected it a few minutes later. The car wouldn't start. I jumped it. It started, I let it idle, turned it off, and it's dead again. I did the same once more. Still dead.
So, my family "mechanic" says I probably didn't connect the terminals well enough, and that it might just need to be adjusted (in all fairness, I'm playing the stupid girl card here). He said worst case scenario is that I randomly need a new alternator (I doubt this based on the circumstances), and it's possible I might need a new battery (I think I replaced it three years ago, but maybe I didn't).
Took my battery out to install my boost gauge today... After putting it all back together; when I start the motor, the steering wheel type light and the stabilization control light stay on. Also on the MFD, it says "Fault: Stabilization Control".
As a side note, I can no longer re-set the tire pressure light as well... My dash is lit up like a friggin christmas tree.
I recently changed my starter and disconnected the battery and tried using a memory saver connected to the cigarette lighter socket with a 9v, but after I got the car back on there's no sound coming from the radio. Comes on no problem, but no sound at all in tuner, bluetooth, or cd mode. This is also an aftermarket radio and I have disconnected the battery plenty of times before and never had this problem.
This is the first time I used a memory saver though, so not sure if that had something to do with it.
OK, I have a 1998 Dodge Neon and had to replace the radiator. To do so I had to pull out the battery and the mount and everything. Upon putting everything back together, the car runs great and all works well except my stereo will not turn on! It is totally dead, can't get it to power up or anything. So I went through all the checks, fuses are all ok (in the console and on the back of the stereo itself), I unplugged the stereo and plugged it back in, pushed the reset button on the stereo, and completely disconnected and reconnected the battery.... I'm not sure what else to do.
Now I would simply assume the stereo died, but it was working fine earlier in the day before I took the battery out, not even 8 hours prior. Also, about a year and a half ago I had to replace my battery and this same thing happened. The same stereo seemed dead and I went through all the checks i mentioned previously with no luck. I was about to purchase a new stereo a few weeks later and I plugged it in one last time to double check it and the stereo came on and has worked fine up to today! So I know the stereo isn't bad, there is just something I am missing here.
Car stereo won't turn on, its happened before, and randomly started working again, but now I can't get it back on yet after a battery disconnection.
I foolishly changed out my driver side wheel hub (bearing was grinding) without disconnecting the battery and now have the ABS, AFS and VSC lights on. Disconnecting the battery overnight did not work. Going on the premise that the sensor on the new hub is good, does this need the dealer or someone with Techstream to reset?
View 8 RepliesI bought some long beams at the local lumber yard. So drove home with the rear cargo door open. The ABS light went on brakes were pulsing mildly and making an odd sound. I cant see why the rear cargo door would have any connection with the ABS system so I assume that's a coincidence.I took the van to the local car store they scanned the code. It scanned code 4 indicating the passenger front sensor. I replaced the sensor but the ABS light is still on. Is there a reset function to clear the code disconnecting the battery didn't work? Or am I looking at another component failure?
View 2 RepliesThe wife and I took her Santa Fe to our local dealer yesterday afternoon for an oil service. I take them a Mobil 1 5 quart jug of 5w20, and they supply the factory filter.
At any rate, today while she was running errands today the battery light comes on. As I suspected, the alternator is not charging. The battery is good and strong, but I do not know if it will run the car for the 25 mile drive back to the dealer.
I also see that the alternator is directly below the oil snout where the tech would have put the new oil back in yesterday. I am wondering if he drenched it in oil, and thus the reason for the light.
I have a 2008 Prius and have been thinking I should be changing the auxilliary battery soon as a preventative measure. I've changed plenty of batteries in other vehicles before but I was wondering if there's anything that's much different in these cars that I should be aware of?
View 9 RepliesI have a 2005 Prius recently replaced the hybrid battery. Not so happy with it, my mpg b4 was 49-51 mpg, now I only get 40-45 mpg. I notice the car is a little weaker and the ICE rev higher everytime I accelerate.
View 5 RepliesI have a 07 Camry XLE. My previous battery started dying on me so I changed to an Optima Yellowtop battery. Next day the check engine light came on, and sometimes while idle the car starts stalling, it never turns off though just that the RPM goes really low and the acceleration is really slow and it feels like the car is having trouble accelerating. Today it happened again but I was over 60MPH and hitting the gas pedal and it seemed to stop accelerating a few times.
View 2 RepliesI know there are battery "thingies" that plug into the lighter, which supposedly preserve the settings, but since the lighter is not "hot" when the car is not running, I don't see this working. How to do?
View 3 RepliesWanted to restore the nice silence in EV mode, just like my old 2007 Prius and my wife's current 2010 Prius. The speaker is located on the divers side. I had to get at it from below (after loosening the access panel), someone with tiny hands might be able to get at it from the top. Just one wire harness to unclip and much less noise in EV mode.
View 19 RepliesI'm a not-terribly-handy (but not totally inept!) apartment dweller with few tools, but it looks like I'm going to need to go buy a deep socket. I park on the street and came out the other day to find my driver side tail light pretty smashed up. I found one for $75 at the junk yard and believe I can swap them myself. I found a YouTube video that shows how to do it on a Gen II. On the Gen II, the nuts holding the assembly in place are 10mm. Definitely not the case on the Gen I. They're much smaller. I have a set of sockets but nothing deep enough to get me past those long bolts, but I'd rather not buy a whole set, since I'm not even sure whether I'd need metric or standard.
what size nuts hold the tail light assembly in place on a 2001 Prius?
Our 54,000 mile '07 Prius has a tail light problem that has thus far eluded me. It began with a friend telling me a tail light was out. I checked and it was, so I replaced both bulbs, checked my work and they both worked. Well, people keep telling me I have one or the other, or both lights out. If I give the offending lens a bump with my fist it will come on and will not flicker or go off like a typical loose connection. However it might not be working tomorrow. I've taken the bulbs out and checked their base and the socket - all look good. I've not noticed any other electrical problems.
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