Dodge - Neon :: 1998 - Stereo Will Not Turn On After Disconnecting The Battery
Dec 16, 2014
OK, I have a 1998 Dodge Neon and had to replace the radiator. To do so I had to pull out the battery and the mount and everything. Upon putting everything back together, the car runs great and all works well except my stereo will not turn on! It is totally dead, can't get it to power up or anything. So I went through all the checks, fuses are all ok (in the console and on the back of the stereo itself), I unplugged the stereo and plugged it back in, pushed the reset button on the stereo, and completely disconnected and reconnected the battery.... I'm not sure what else to do.
Now I would simply assume the stereo died, but it was working fine earlier in the day before I took the battery out, not even 8 hours prior. Also, about a year and a half ago I had to replace my battery and this same thing happened. The same stereo seemed dead and I went through all the checks i mentioned previously with no luck. I was about to purchase a new stereo a few weeks later and I plugged it in one last time to double check it and the stereo came on and has worked fine up to today! So I know the stereo isn't bad, there is just something I am missing here.
Car stereo won't turn on, its happened before, and randomly started working again, but now I can't get it back on yet after a battery disconnection.
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My Neon needed a water pump. At 204K miles the timing belt should be replaced also. The pump and belt were replaced. The motor started and the car drove about 1000ft. and stopped. There was no more spark. The car was checked to make sure that the timing belt is on correctly. The cam points to top dead center when the #1 cylinder is at peak and the crankshaft is at top dead center. Both marks align. When the key is turned the starter tries to turn but the engine does not spark. Electricity goes to the coil pack. 1998 Dodge Neon 2.0L SOHC 4 cylinder....
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My 1998 Dodge Neon has been stalling after it is warmed up. It runs great when the engine is cold but once the temperature gauge gets to the middle it stalls no matter how fast or slow I’m going. Once it stalls it won’t start for about 10 to 15 minutes while the engine cools a little. Then it will start and run fine for a few more minutes until the gauge reaches the middle and it will stall again. I’ve had my cam sensor, crank sensor, and ignition coil replaced and the problem hasn’t been fixed. When I bring it to the garage they tell me that no problem codes are showing up and by the time they look at it, it has cooled down enough to run and they can’t see a problem.
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Have a 1998 Dodge Neon and all of a sudden my dome light won't come on, either by opening a door or twisting my headlight knob to the left...changing the bulb didn't work....then I noticed that the chimes that come on when you forget to turn your headlights off didn't come on anymore either.
Those are the only 2 things that won't work....all other gauges, lights etc; work fine. I wanted to check fuses but where the fuse is located for this issue...my manual says it's under the hood but there is nothing there that indicates this...I pulled the closet one I could figure and was going to change it, but when I got back in my car to go to the fuse shop my radio didn't work, so I put it back in and radio was fine!
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My sons commuter car is having an intermittent engine light. If you turn left while driving it goes off, turn right it goes on, move the wheel left and right you can make it a disco light on and off. I have had two code readers on this car and there are no engine codes. Im in California so it cant pass emissions test with any engine light despite the fact there are not codes.
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My stepson's 2005 Dodge Neon sometimes won't start. Turn the key, the dash lights and radio and electric stuff respond, but other than a click there is nothing of an engine start up going on. He'll turn the key a few times, he pumps the gas pedal, does what he thinks might wake it up. Usually it will start after a few tries. He thinks it gets worse in the cold weather, but not much worse.
He also notes that if he does a lot of short trips, like running errands, this problem comes up more often. The car may run fine for weeks, and then the problem hits. Of course, it never does this when the mechanic has it. The mechanic has no idea what to do, since the car works when they test it. I was wondering if I used a voltmeter could I check some key nodes when the problem comes up. Also, if it really does get worse at cold, can I spray some suspicious locations with freeze spray to try and instigate the problem?
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Just bought a used 2003 Dodge Neon SXT for my daughter. The car didn't pass inspection because the fog lights didn't turn off unless I turned the headlight switch completely off. I ordered a new switch w/ fog light from Napa, disconnected the negative cable, removed switch assembly, removed the wiper switch and installed on new headlight switch hooked up harnesses and reinstalled. I was so happy to find the fog lights now turned off.....until I took the car for a ride and found my turn signals and hazards not working......
Repeated the disassembly process making sure harness was completely seated, it was, took assembly back out, looked over the harness, all appeared good, hooked up just the old headlight switch (left windshield wiper switch on the assembly, did not plug in) and hazards now flashed but no turn signal. Reinstalled the new one again still no turn or hazards....thoroughly aggravated I walked away at this point. Am I missing something? The turn signal fuse is the same as the power mirrors, mirrors are working.
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Went out to my car a moment ago, Dodge Neon 2000, couldn't get the engine to start. The lights all come on, battery seems fine. It sounds like the engine isn't even trying to turn over. Instead, the car makes a weird chugging noise. I've got a recording here, is someone still awake that could give me a clue as to what this is?
[URL] .... -- I turn the key twice here and let it chug. You can hear the noise at about the 2-second mark. I don't think I had any advance warning that anything was wrong, though I did have the car in the shop a few days ago to replace a water pump and timing belt.
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I have a dodge neon that has a hard time starting. if i turn the key about 6-8 times i hear a noise like a pump ( i am guessing) and then it starts. if i do not turn the key on and off it will not start.
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I have a 2003 Dodge Neon SXT and the only time my turn signals work is in the morning. by afternoon, when I leave work they won't come on at all.
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My Neon has this strange problem and I can't figure it out neither can my mechanic. Mainly when I'm making a left hand turn there is a knock sound underneath the car, like I can almost feel something jerking up underneath my pedals. And then after making the left hand turn and then accelerating... my car would almost feel like it was stuck to the left and jerk itself straight again.
NOTE: I have replaced/checked the Lateral and Radius Bushings, Control Arm Bushings, Sway Bar and I also recently got new rims and tires which at that point I got an alignment. But nothing has worked so far and I'm at a loss.
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I have a 1998 Dodge Caravan with just over 50,000 miles on it. This summer It started having this issue where when I turned the key, all I got was a click, and then nothing. The starter wouldn't turn over, but all other electronics seemed to be working properly. If I continued to try turning the key (2 or 3 times) eventually the starter would engage and the car would start right up. Assuming a bad connection somewhere I cleaned the battery posts, and a couple other connections I could get to, and the problem seemed to go away. About a month later the same issue started up again, and I was able to fix it the same way.
About a month and a half ago, I went to start my car, turned the key, and NO click. After turning the key a couple times the car would start as before. Then the next time I tried to start the car I again got nothing. On the third try the starter turned over, but only a few times before it died (and it sounded like it was really struggling to turn over too). The fourth time I turned the key the car started right up. This new behavior continued for about a week and then I took it into the shop.
At the shop they first started by cleaning all the connections, which did nothing. Next they put in a new starter which also didn't fix the problem. On the off chance the new starter was bad, they tried a second new starter, and again the problem continued. Finally they pulled out the wiring harness and found 3 "Bad wires" which they replaced. The then also concluded that the bad wires were causes the starter to short out, and that is why the two new starters they tried didn't work. They gave me a new starter, and that in conjunction with the new wires seemed to fix the problem.
Now, every few weeks, I'll go to turn the key, and all I'll get is a click again. The second time i turn the key, however, the car will start right up. This issue maybe happens more when its cold in the morning, but it hasn't happened enough for me to be sure. The clicking issue doesn't bother me that much because the car always starts, but I'm worried that the problem will just get worse again. Did my mechanic actually fix the problem I had? Or am I going to need to take it back in to the shop in a couple of months and put another new starter in? Also, I have had my battery tested three times throughout all of this, and it always comes back fine.
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I have a 1999 vw Passat i have to say i love it but sometimes it pisses me off ok well i have this problem i disconnected my battery because i was trying to reset my cpu and now my damn car wont start .
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I just bought a '12 Camry SE I4 about 6 months ago. It stalls at first startup after disconnecting and reconnecting the battery. After the first start and stall it will start normally. A pending code will come up P1604 'Startability Malfunction.' The code doesn't have a real definition other than the engine failed to start. It has a new AGM battery, serpentine belt, and the alternator passed a bench test. Had this problem with the 2.5L I4 or the 3.5L V6? Is this normal?
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I was just wondering... I am in the navy so i'm called to go away quite often sometimes for extended periods.
I have read that the 12V battery will discharge itself if it the car is not being used frequently because it has the memory for everything (radio channels, time, trip meters, etc)
My question is how long is it safe for me to just leave the car parked in my driveway without disconnecting anything and when should i disconnect it?
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I disconnected my negative terminal on my 2007 Avalon to remove the radio. I eneded up having an incorrect connector for what I was doing so I reinstalled the factory radio back into the car after having it out all of about 20 minutes. The only connectors I touched were the two attached to the vent casing around the radio and the ones plugged into the radio. After reconnecting the negative cable, I see that my driver window no longer goes down automatically with the long push of the button.
My front passenger window will also not go down with the driver side controls. (it will with the control on its own door). The rear windows work fine with the driver side controls. Also, my sunroof will not auto open or auto close with the long push. It will open, but I have to keep it pushed down until it is done. Is there something I just need to reset since I unhooked the battery? I remember something like this happening in my 4runner in the past.
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I need to replace tail light assembly on 2005 Prius. Some instructions say you should disconnect negative cable on battery before doing this, then do some initialization after reconnecting the battery. Is it necessary to disconnect the battery to change out the tail light assembly? If so, what is the initialization process that must be done?
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I have a 2006 Pontiac Vibe. Yesterday my Check Engine light came on while driving. It's done this before and randomly gone away. My car has been in the shop twice in the past month for routine maintenance.
The light annoys me, so I disconnected the battery and reconnected it a few minutes later. The car wouldn't start. I jumped it. It started, I let it idle, turned it off, and it's dead again. I did the same once more. Still dead.
So, my family "mechanic" says I probably didn't connect the terminals well enough, and that it might just need to be adjusted (in all fairness, I'm playing the stupid girl card here). He said worst case scenario is that I randomly need a new alternator (I doubt this based on the circumstances), and it's possible I might need a new battery (I think I replaced it three years ago, but maybe I didn't).
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Took my battery out to install my boost gauge today... After putting it all back together; when I start the motor, the steering wheel type light and the stabilization control light stay on. Also on the MFD, it says "Fault: Stabilization Control".
As a side note, I can no longer re-set the tire pressure light as well... My dash is lit up like a friggin christmas tree.
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I recently changed my starter and disconnected the battery and tried using a memory saver connected to the cigarette lighter socket with a 9v, but after I got the car back on there's no sound coming from the radio. Comes on no problem, but no sound at all in tuner, bluetooth, or cd mode. This is also an aftermarket radio and I have disconnected the battery plenty of times before and never had this problem.
This is the first time I used a memory saver though, so not sure if that had something to do with it.
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I foolishly changed out my driver side wheel hub (bearing was grinding) without disconnecting the battery and now have the ABS, AFS and VSC lights on. Disconnecting the battery overnight did not work. Going on the premise that the sensor on the new hub is good, does this need the dealer or someone with Techstream to reset?
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