I have been posting about P3125 fault which is inhibiting ICE from starting. During this time I have been charging and also testing the traction battery so that I could continue to investigate the P3125 problem.
View 2 RepliesI just replaced two bad modules in my 2006 (125K mile) traction battery. I replaced one other module a year ago successfully. I installed the battery last night and tried to charge it with my Hybrid Automotive charger. The charger would not go into charging mode. So I decided to check the idiot lights on the dash - plug in key and push the power button - every light on the dash lit up and stayed lit. The battery charge indicator in the display on the dash had most of the blue bars filled. I left the power on for several minutes and the engine never started (usually does regardless of state of battery charge for a minute or two when you first power up the Prius).
View 19 RepliesReceived these warning lights this morning.
Just took it to a local shop and here are the codes it has thrown:
The car is running badly now -- really not wanting to drive t at all. Where I can get this fixed myself? I have no problem single charging / grid charging / balancing these things out and or replacing hopefully only "block 8" as denoted above. And yes, this is the nightmare of having you battery go out -- 160k miles right now so no chance of warranty.
Car stalled and ran on battery only. Set code P3125, and depleted aux battery. So, I replaced the inverter and recharged aux battery.
Drove it 20-30 miles test driving it, when the MIL came on.
Drove home and found 2 codes set, 1st was set while driving, 2nd was set after parking.
P3000/123 - MPH=22 MG2.RPM=1280 SOC=65% Position=D
P3125/287 - MPH=1 SOC=60% Position=P
Any TSB on this issue?
Battery kept dying. Had the battery tested. Bench tested as OK but kept dying. Replaced the battery with a new OEM. In a week, that battery was dying too. Alternator was putting out 13V but would dip down to 11V. Also did a parasitic current draw test. Car is only drawing 20mA at rest. Replaced the alternator with brand new. New alternator putting out 14.4V. Battery keeps dying. Still no parasitic current draw.
I did two things right around the same time I started having the issue. I put in a new head unit. I already had an aftermarket head unit and I simply upgraded. I know this isn't the issue because I ripped the thing out completely, including wiring harness, and I still kept having a problem. The other change I made was going from a MFSW to a 3-spoke. I removed the MFSW relay and switched the pins in the column so that the horn and airbag work properly. I tried the cruise control and it doesn't work. When I try to turn on the cruise control, it blows the horn fuse. Replaced the horn fuse and I just don't use the cruise.
What I'm wondering is if I messed up the CCM when I did the steering wheel swap. I've read that bad CCMs can kill batteries. I'm not having the typical faulty CCM issues. The only issues, besides the battery dying, are that the unlock on the keyfob will stop working at random, and the "door ajar" light on my dash flickers at random.
This is the third time this has happend in a week I used my torque app but it says no fault codes but the warning lights are clearly lit and wont turn off unless I shut down the car. Its a 2012 with 8,000 mile?
View 6 RepliesIf my traction battery has plenty of 'juice' in it, and my 12v battery is dead....is there any way to 'jump' the 12 volt battery with the traction battery to get the car started?
View 19 RepliesMy 2012 Prius v has a traction battery gauge beside the fuel gauge. The gauge has never shown that the battery is full. It appears as if the indicator is 2 bars below full at all times. Is this by design or should the gauge look full with bars to the very top after charging on a long trip?
View 5 RepliesThis is my first year driving my prius during a hot season, and for past 3 weeks my mpg has dropped from 49 to 41-43 mpg, and the reason is my traction battery keeps getting HOT! I can hear the battery cooling fan turning on constantly at max when i reach 20 mph, my car doesn't want to start in EV mode the engine just kicks in no matter how light you press the throttle, the EV motor is not assisting with the engine, the infamous slow rpm drop keep occurring and I when to touch the traction battery case and it its HOT, Ive open up the case to check for any dust on the fan and ducts but so far its spotless. I really wished they place an AC vent for the battery because the back passenger area with full A/C doesn't t get as cold as the front dose which doesn't cool off the battery.
View 19 RepliesI have a 2005 Prius Gen II with 114,000 miles on it. I was driving last week when it suddenly displayed a Christmas tree of lights that included VSC and the triangle of death....and of course the battery fan kicked into high gear.
Hooked it into a OBD II scanner:
P0A80 "Hybrid battery pack over temperature"
P3019 "battery block 7 becomes weak"
P3000 "DSL solenoid circut low"
P0300 "random misfire detected"
P000A "engine position system performance- bank 1"
Also C1241, C1242, c1249, c1259, c1310, c1357
I went ahead and cleared the codes. The angry lights went away but came back within minutes of driving. The car went into limp mode but I was able to make it home.
A friend of mine has got a B5 1999 passat, and it has the typical abs module failure. How to get rid of the light since he failed the safety inspection. He doesnt care about working ABS, and the inspection is just visually checking the dashboard. I've tried pulling the fuse, and/or physically disconnecting the ABS module, and neither of those work. Which wires should I jump on the module connector (and if it even is possible to do this)?
View 4 RepliesI don't own a Prius, but my parents own two identical 2002 models (each with 120k miles).
My mother's car wasn't driven for nearly a month (hip replacement), and when they tried to start it last week, the ready light would blink 3 times - but no cranking.
After taking it to the dealer, they were quoted $4600 to replace the traction battery and ECU. We did the mandatory research on rebuilt batteries, but with only a vague diagnosis from the dealer, we were not convinced that this was the (only) problem.
So, my brother and I decided to swap the ECU, then the battery from my father's working Prius to my mother's - thereby proving the issue. Upon removing the 'dead' battery from mother's car, I decided to open the module, and check each battery. We measured anywhere from 3.0 to 6.4V on the individual cells - and 7.0V to 11V on the paired cells. It was clear that the batteries had discharged unevenly. The total charge remaining was about 151V - still above the 40% SOC minimum I'd read about.
We then bought 5 x 10A chargers from Walmart, and connected each to a pair of modules. Set the charge to rapid (10A) and waited 30 minutes (or until the charger indicated full). After 2 hours, all 19 pair were charged fully - with each reporting 15.7V +/- 0.5V. The total power was about 295V.
We reassembled the battery, re-installed it, and the car started immediately. We let it sit running, until it cycled off on its own. About 5 min later, the ICE fired again to charge the 12V battery - but it threw a P3006 error code. It showed a PS + MAIN + battery icon on the MFD. Using an OBDII scan tool, we cleared the error, and drove the car for a few miles. The error code did not return during that drive - but did one more time after letting it cycle off/on automatically. After clearing the code a second time, it never repeated again.
My assumption is that the 300V HV charge was above the 80% SOC and it didn't like that. But after a few cranking cycles, and the tendency for the battery to discharge back to it's rated output, the error no longer repeated.
Over the last few weeks I have noted the following when I first start the car in the morning : I turn on the car, and turn on the A/C (this is Arkansas, remember, and the sun has already heated the car up pretty good). The Traction Battery is usually at 6 bar+/-
Over the next few minutes (driving uphill, maybe stopping for a minute to put trash in our trash cans, A/C on all the time), the Traction Battery goes down to 2 or 3 bars quickly. Then over the next few minutes it pretty quickly comes back up as I start driving faster (40-45) on a main road.
I am guessing this is happening now because of my A/C use. But I don't remember this happening so much in previous summers, which were at least as hot.
BTW, I start driving as quickly as possible after turning the car on (little or no warm up). So maybe some of this has to do with the car using battery energy while the engine is warming itself. But again, I never noticed this before.
Is it possible that a cell or something in the battery is going bad? Or is it just completely normal and I just never noticed it before and I'm having Traction Battery Paranoia?
Took my C to the local drive through car wash as it was pretty crusty looking from all of the rain we've had lately. I had my A/C on as its a nice and warm sunny Florida day. Pulled inside and put my C in Neutral to go through the wash and half way through my car started beeping like mad and flashing the "!" in a triangle symbol and on the small screen it said something to the effect of "Cannot charge traction battery when car is in 'N'." My HVAC system drained down the traction battery and since the car was in neutral the engine couldn't keep it above the minimum SOC level. Turned the air off and anxiously waited for the car wash to hurry up so I could put it in drive. After I put the car in drive the SOC read 1 blue bar and took FOREVER to charge back (or perhaps it just seemed that way because I was freaking out..)
View 17 RepliesPurchased a second traction battery and installed it in parallel with the existing battery? Perhaps one from a wrecked Prius.
I'm thinking that would double the Ev range, which would be very handy in my current commute due to long term construction on one of the highways I use. I am in sub-5 mph stop and go so long each day that I wear down my battery and the ice ends up running while stopped, thus killing my hypermiler goals.
How often should the traction battery cooling fan come on? It started to be warmer here in FL, and I hear this fan more often now. I bought my 2011 in December and up until now almost never heard this fan working. Now it comes on at least couple of times a day, mostly under heavy acceleration in Power mode.
View 6 RepliesMy prius is almost 5 years old and has 88K Klm (49K Miles) My battery has gone down to one bar of late. This never happened until recently, never went below two. The bars seem to fluctuate up and down much quicker than before. My mileage is slightly down but it could be because of other reasons. Does it seem that there is something wrong with the battery? No warning lights are coming on
View 14 RepliesI recently received an airbag fault light so I figured that I would scan the module for error codes. This is what I came up with:
Control Module Part Number: 3D0 909 601 C
Component and/or Version: 05 Airbag 8.4E++H01 0352
Software Coding: 0012341
Work Shop Code: WSC 31414
Additional Info: 7L0959339B BF-Gewichtsens. 005 0006
Additional Info: Geraet 00000
2 Faults Found:
01217 - Side Airbag Igniter: Driver Side (N199)
001 - Upper Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
01316 - ABS Control Module
004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent
Has scanned the car while had the airbag fault present and if so, is this the usual harness that needs to be changed?
I see this was discussed back in 06 but not resolved. Maybe more owners have had additional experiences with this.
View 18 RepliesMy hybrid battery is shot and I do plan on rebuilding it when I can afford the cells. I was talking with Mike at xvipers.com yesterday and he said he could disable the hybrid system and make it run on the engine only for $40. He also says it will get 27mpg that way which is not bad. How one could do this?
View 19 RepliesI have replaced the Traction battery AND the 12volt battery. I clear all codes by disconnecting the 12 volt battery for a short period of time. I reconnect 12v battery and no warning lights. I drive for 10 miles and RED TRIANGLE, Check Engine and the Brake lights also come on the dash. 2006 Prius 130K miles.
View 16 Replies