Prius (2004-09) :: 2006 (125K Mile) Traction Battery Module Replacement
Oct 21, 2015
I just replaced two bad modules in my 2006 (125K mile) traction battery. I replaced one other module a year ago successfully. I installed the battery last night and tried to charge it with my Hybrid Automotive charger. The charger would not go into charging mode. So I decided to check the idiot lights on the dash - plug in key and push the power button - every light on the dash lit up and stayed lit. The battery charge indicator in the display on the dash had most of the blue bars filled. I left the power on for several minutes and the engine never started (usually does regardless of state of battery charge for a minute or two when you first power up the Prius).
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I have a 2005 Prius Gen II with 114,000 miles on it. I was driving last week when it suddenly displayed a Christmas tree of lights that included VSC and the triangle of death....and of course the battery fan kicked into high gear.
Hooked it into a OBD II scanner:
P0A80 "Hybrid battery pack over temperature"
P3019 "battery block 7 becomes weak"
P3000 "DSL solenoid circut low"
P0300 "random misfire detected"
P000A "engine position system performance- bank 1"
Also C1241, C1242, c1249, c1259, c1310, c1357
I went ahead and cleared the codes. The angry lights went away but came back within minutes of driving. The car went into limp mode but I was able to make it home.
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I have been posting about P3125 fault which is inhibiting ICE from starting. During this time I have been charging and also testing the traction battery so that I could continue to investigate the P3125 problem.
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Received these warning lights this morning.
Just took it to a local shop and here are the codes it has thrown:
The car is running badly now -- really not wanting to drive t at all. Where I can get this fixed myself? I have no problem single charging / grid charging / balancing these things out and or replacing hopefully only "block 8" as denoted above. And yes, this is the nightmare of having you battery go out -- 160k miles right now so no chance of warranty.
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2006 gen II base w/ about 90k miles. Jump in, big scare triangle with multiple other dash lights. POA80 and PO319 codes. Traction battery fail. Fortunately, I was just under the warranty limit (8yrs).
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Car just stopped, she said. Wouldn't go. Police told her to try to move it; it ran okay, she said.
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I own a 2008 Prius with 87k on it. The factory hybrid warranty was good through 11/15 and on 1/22/16 the dash lit up along with the MFD screen. After research I thought it was an inverter pump. I got the call from Toyota that it was throwing a P80 code meaning it is the hybrid battery. The dealership told me that it would run 3200.00 for a new replacement. I called the service manager and had him send in a goodwill exception since we service our 7 other toyotas with them.
Toyota corporate responded they would cover the battery under goodwill but I would have to pay the labor cost of 450.00. I spoke to the service manger and the dealership is covering half of that which I'm only liable for 225.00. I'm not out 3200.00 but after doing more research the typical battery last 60-80k. Some are luckier to get over 150k. For those Prius owners approaching those miles beware that you might need a battery replacement. This will be the last hybrid I will ever own.
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I have a 2005 Prius with about 170,000 km on it. I bought it two years ago used at 150,000 km. Everything worked fine for about 8 months, them I noticed the main battery started to drain on first start in the morning after driving a short distance. It would drop down to about 2-3 bars most days, especially on cold mornings. After reading on this forum for a bit I turned off the key locator, and it went back to normal for about 6 months, at which point it started dropping again. I haven't had any warning lights come on yet.
I replaced the 12 V battery, as recommended here with an Optima Yellow Top, even though the original one showed no voltage drop. It actually tested higher than the new Yellow Top I got. My fear is that the traction battery is losing modules. I'm planning on testing them soon.
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We just replaced the Traction battery in my 2004 prius. The car has 242,000 miles on it and was running fine when we pulled it in. The battery was purchased used from a 2005 prius with just over 80k on the clock. The replacement battery was removed from the wrecked prius less than a month ago.
The problem is that after installing the new traction battery, every thing looks great except the Ready light will not come on. There are no warning lights except the little red light that indicates there is no key in the car. The key will remotely lock and unlock the car so I'm sure the battery is not dead and the no-key light stays on even if I insert the key into the key slot on the dash. The shifter will only move from Park to Neutral.
What am I doing wrong? Is there some special procedure to go through to make the car recognize the key after replacing the battery?
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A month ago I bought a 2007 Prius with 140,000 km. I notice that the state of charge drops into the 'red' bars within about 20 minutes of the car switched on, in Park with no accessories running. A mechanic connected his diagnostic computer and saw 2 cells are low. However, the mechanic informs me there is no value in replacing those cells as others are likely to go down, thereafter. Is there anything I can do to avoid having to replace the entire traction battery?
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2004 Car has 106,800 miles and for the last several weeks, when I'm stuck in traffic, like trying to get into the Lincoln or Holland Tunnel, the battery seems to go from 7 blue bars to two pink bars within five to seven minutes. Used to be that it took 3 five-minute bars of traffic, running fully electric at 100 mpg, to then go down to 2 pink, when the ICE would run and charge the battery. Today the battery indicators went down to 2 pink after sitting in traffic with the AC on and stayed there for the remainder of the time we sat in traffic - another 45 minutes or so.
The ICE would run at idle sometimes, but didn't seem to bring the battery back up unless we were really moving. A couple of times I held the brake with my left foot, revved the engine with my right, and that seemed to bring the battery up a couple bars. After we finally got going on the highway, the battery recovered. I got no warning lights, no triangles. But I'm wondering if these are symptoms of the battery failing. Time to get it tested at the dealership?
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My 2007 Prius has 120,000 miles. I live in a mountainous area. I need to climb 3 miles at 6% grade to get out of my neighborhood. Lately I've been noticing the traction battery loses charge fairly quickly and I've been thinking about replacing the battery. Much of my driving is in steep hills and I run a full charge cycle many times a day, so I guess I should expect some loss of life.
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Do you think it would shorten the life of the hybrid battery if I make a habit of really trying to EV in the last mile of arriving home?
Tonight, I accelerated quite slow after the last stop to stay on battery, but I noticed the battery bars got down to 2.
Got to wondering, if I do this a lot, might it shorten the traction battery life such that it fails at 11 yrs, for example, instead of 14 years?
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If my traction battery has plenty of 'juice' in it, and my 12v battery is dead....is there any way to 'jump' the 12 volt battery with the traction battery to get the car started?
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I have a 2004 prius that had a HV batyery problem. HV battery was rebuilt. After that car started ran but after shut down it will not start. It will only show red triangle, abs, vcs, yellow tire. Basically all yellow lights on dash board except check engine. Also on the MFD it shows the red car with exclamation symbol. I scanned it but shows no DTC codes.
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I just replaced my 12V battery and now the car won't start. It will take a jump and show "ready" on the dash but as soon as the car is turned off, it won't start again - no lights, nothing. I checked some fuses and they looked fine.
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My 2012 Prius v has a traction battery gauge beside the fuel gauge. The gauge has never shown that the battery is full. It appears as if the indicator is 2 bars below full at all times. Is this by design or should the gauge look full with bars to the very top after charging on a long trip?
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My 12v battery died, I tried recharging it etc, but it was dead so I took it to my local Toyota dealer and had the battery replaced.
Because I had the battery off, there was a VSC warning light, which I thought that the Toyota dealer could reset. They re-calibrated all the warning apart from one, they say that the Yaw sensor will not clear it's warning and needs to be replaced.
if I can reset this warning myself, or do I really need to replace this sensor?
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I have a 2012 prius c and just replaced the body control module - no problem there, but now the ac and fan will not turn on. Fuses visually look ok (I don't have a tester) and they had been working previously. I live on Molokai - no prius mechanic on the island so I do my own repair when I can - how to diagnose the problem?
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So the fuel pump module on my truck is falling apart, and I figured I might as well replace it....
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I'm getting the 14 blink code on my Hymotion LED indicating that my 12v battery is needing replacement. My question is that the car seems to run fine with the exception of my mileage is low. I'm ordering the Optima replacement. Can I still drive around for another week without worry?
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