Prius (Gen 3) :: Econ Mode At Higher Speeds?
Jul 2, 2010
I just bought my new 2010 Prius the day before I went on a 300 mile trip out of state. Dealer showed me the eco mode, which sounded like a good idea to me. Drove on the expressway, about 70 mph, decided lots of power was not necessary and I wanted the best mpg so I put the car in Eco mode. Drove great for about 250 miles, then all of a sudden, I began to lose power. Fortunately, I was nearing a rest park. Pulled in, was there long enough to take care a Rest Park business, started back up and car ran fine. BUT I did not use Eco mode. Question: When should I use this mode and when should I not?
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I feel that I press the gas pedal less when the battery is at high level to get to same speed than when the battery is at low level. Is it true? I am operating in Eco mode, but I am staying in ev region with ev indicator on during the comparison. High means 7 bars, low means 3 bars.
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I have a 2007 Prius (now has 220K + miles) I bought used about 2 years ago with 150K miles. I finally got used to the car sounds so this is something new, or rather it's becoming louder and enough for me to question it. The car is still quiet at low speeds but this sounds like something related to how fast the car is rolling, not the engine acceleration. It doesn't sound like it's coming from the wheels. It's a low roar like sound, not high pitched and it sounds like it's coming from under the middle to front of the car as if related to perhaps the drive train. If I am up to 40-50 mph and just rolling (foot off the gas) down a long hill, the sound is there. It gets louder the faster I go. Could it be a transmission sound? I've always had manuals so this is my first automatic transmission car.
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I have noticed recently that I seem to be getting less regen braking force than I used to. Particularly noticeable at higher speeds at over 45MPH or 70 KMPH. The regen seems to have very little effect now until I have slowed down. I seem to have to use much more brake than I remember recently. And by the way the battery in not nearly fully charged....Regen does come on but seems to have very little slowing power....
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I have both a 2010 Prius and a new v and have just noticed that if you press the 'Econ' button once, the little light goes on in the dashboard. If you press it again, the little light goes off. The same occurs with the 'pwr' button.
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Today I drove my Prius Plug-in from my home almost to the highway in EV mode. When about one minute from the highway, I pushed the PWR mode button twice, on and off, and the ice came on for warmup. All the green symbols above the speedometer were cleared. I then again pressed ECO to bring back that mode.
I believe the vehicle was in what I think of as blended HV mode. This mode blends the extra battery capacity of the Plug in with the ICE. After a 40 mile trip, the available EV miles dropped from 13.9 to 1.2, and the trip meter registered 76 MPG. I went up and down a serious hill which probably reduced the mileage.
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Just hit a fantastic Minnesota pot hole. Have a slight shimmy now at higher speeds, feels like its from the rear. Don't see any obvious dents in the rim, what else could I have bent back there? I'm wondering if this is psychosomatic and our roads just suck right now or if I really damaged something.
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I have a 2012 elantra manual transmission. I noticed the eco mode but never found out if it really does anything. when I shift from 1st to 2nd at higher RPMs its rough. At other gears its ok but I feel like the gas pedal is weak sometimes. With a manual does the eco mode make that more difficult?
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When not using the manual mode of the DSG...What are the differences between driving in D and S? It seems like the car shifts more aggressively in S mode, allowing higher rpms before it shifts. Are their any other pros/cons to the different driving modes when in automatic, And what do most drivers prefer?
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Ok so the brakes are new and for some reason at higher speeds, i feel the pedal vibrate as if its a bad rotor....gonna grease the pins and pads this weekend to see if theres a diff. But what gets me is that it Squeals as if the pads are shot as well in the front.
The title problem is that when i brake its smooth ish until 10 MPH where then it feels like the pedal goes to MUSH and i hear an ERRRRR sound as the car comes to a stop. it almost sounds like ABS/ESP while im sliding to a stop in the snow.... Expect there's no snow.
I don't have a high tech phone to record the noise. It never used to make this sound and i feel there is an actual problem.
I am gonna try flushing the brake system with new fluid, take the front brakes off and re grease everything. yesterday seemed to be the day my dash decides to light up like a Christmas tree...
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So I've had my B6 7 months now with no major problems (other than a blown head light bulb, which was repaired under warranty) - until now....
So when I'm decelerating from higher speeds (55mph +)...say for a stop light or to turn....around 30mph....my car occasionally shifts down hard. Not enough to make me stop driving and call a tow truck but definitely enough to make me to notice.
It's only when shifting down and it's just started in the past month or so. Before that the car has performed beautifully...shifting like silk. My car is a 2007, auto 2.0T with almost 20k (had 4k when I bought it). It happens when I decel slow or have to stop real fast. It seems like there's no rhyme or reason to it.
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Getting some lateral movement when on straightaways at higher speeds, it's minimal but feels like the whole car is swaying a little side to side. The suspension feels great otherwise and cornering is accurate. My current setup is:
- Bilstein Sport Shocks and Struts
- Neuspeed Rear Sway Bar
- H&R Front Sway Bar
- Stock on the rest
I think this started when I added the front sway bar but am not sure, had the rear on long before adding it. Would upgraded sway bar end links work or make this more noticeable? Thought about trying to swap the stock front sway bar back in but that one is kind of difficult to get to. How to remedy this?
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But i still have the sound, and it definitely sounds like its coming from the passenger side, however when i looked at everything and tried wiggling the wheel, nothing seemed out of place. Would that still indicate a bad ball joint? Is there anything else i should inspect/have inspected?
The sound only happens when i go over a big bump, or a medium bump at a higher speed. It doesn't seem to affect my steering or driving feel, but its still not a noise that should be there.
I found that the driver side tie rod was a little loose, and replaced that, but sound persists.
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I have a 2012 Hyundai Sonata with a 2.0 turbo engine and just under 60,000 miles. Recently, I began noticing that at higher speeds (60+ mph), the whole car would periodically shake rather violently.
I took it to the dealership, where they informed me that I have:
1) three bent wheels
2) both CV joints loose
3) right inner tie rod wear/damage
4) something wrong with a "coupler" that I did not fully understand
Two questions: First, other than the occasional pothole, I haven't had any collisions with this vehicle. For a 60K mileage car, is this normal?? I've never had such extensive damage with a previous car.
Does that seem right given the problems listed? It is admittedly way more damage than I could've imagined.
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We have had the 2014 Camry SE for 3 months, 2000 miles, (we also have a 2005 Camry LE) and our first interstate trip is when we noticed it. When we get close to 70 mph and above we hear it. Sounds like some maybe flapping/rubbing? No really metal sounding, maybe plastic? I have checked under the car, do not see anything loose. We first thought it was coming from the storage area in between the seat, but we took everything out and the noise continued. Dead center under the car it sounds like. It does it every time, the same sound.
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Started to hear noise from passenger side front wheel at higher speeds and will disappear when turning wheel to right.
From what I have been reading this sounds like it the wheel bearing.
Is this a easy repair or is more work than it sounds.
Autozone shows wheel bearing and hub as separate pieces.
when removing the parts from the car do they come out as assembly or in parts
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I have a '96 Dodge Ram 1500. The only way I can describe the problem is when I go around 75, it feels like it loses power for a split second, then recovers. It will do this repeatedly, until I slow down a bit, then it won't do it at all. But once I speed up it will do it again. My first thought was the distributor/cap.
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My 2000 Forester recently started shaking while driving at highway speeds or while under engine load (hills, accelerating, etc). My first thought was that it was a problem with the alignment so I took it to my local tire shop. The car has 164K on it and has been without a Subaru specific mechanic since my last guy got fired a year ago, though I am trying to get an appointment with the only other Subaru mechanic in the area, outside of the dealership.
The tire shop found an issue with cupped tires (naturally they'd want to sell me tires) and told me that my passenger side rear CV joint was bad and they'd have to replace the axle. Since this sounded credible for the symptoms it was showing and they found me an axle, I told them to go ahead and replace it.
When I got it back the first time, I didn't see any great improvement in the shaking. I also noticed that they'd forgotten to put the bolt back into the bottom of my shock absorber. o_O When I brought it back to them, they fixed the missing bolt and agreed to keep it for a week to troubleshoot where else the shaking might be coming from. In the process, they replaced spark plugs and wires (which it probably needed anyway) and did an oil change, but the shaking is still there after all their tinkering. They suggested the problem may be in the timing and that I should have that checked out.
I don't think they're right about that. The vibration feels (to me) even more like a CV joint problem now than it did before. It shakes more violently and at slower speeds the longer it runs so by the time I get to work (40+ miles) it's almost constant. It stops shaking when you pop it into neutral and let it coast suggesting it's not timing or alignment - and making me think even more that it's something to do with the drive train.
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My husband and I noticed that my Hyundai Elantra (2007) sounded rough when running over 60mph. The car has 61,000 miles on it and is due for an oil change, a radiator flush, and a fuel filter replacement. My manual says that the platinum coated (versus iridium coated) spark plugs would need to be replaced at 60K miles. I was told that the car would run rough at lower speeds if it was the spark plugs.
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My 2006 3.6 awd has developed a propensity to roughly downshift when braking at higher speeds particularly on inclines. The VW shop cannot replicate the problem, but a tech is driving the car for a few days. What might be the cause of this?
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I have a 1990 mercury cougar its having a weird issue its like it surges when driving at higher speeds you feel a small push-pull feeling, also going up hill its like i loose throttle at about 20mph then i feather the gas for a second and it comes back and this repeats at about 40mph or when I need to pass or speed up in general i took it into my ford dealership they plugged it in told me it was the egr valve the dpfe senor and the tpi sensor which all have been replaced still having the same issue took it back in he told me it was my alternator and fuel relay switch both replaced brand new as well still having the same issue most of my family is all mechanics and there completely stumped and this didn't come on slowly i noticed it last week on the way back from work. I've also replaced spark plugs properly gaped fuel filters hell replaced the suspension air filter oil change the works and well were all at a loss of what it is?
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