Prius (Gen 4) :: Loud Beep And Cruise Control Is Unavailable Message When Driving On Freeway
May 21, 2016
Yesterday while traveling on the freeway and using cruise control my 2016 Prius beeped loudly, displayed the message "Cruise Control is Unavailable" and dropped me out of cruise. I turned cruise off and back on, and got the same message. There's also an orange indicator light blinking that looks like a car hitting another car, and the "Cruise Control is Unavailable" message now displays on the info panel every ten seconds*. Collision prevention is also unavailable.
Was this something I did wrong? Is there a way to get cruise control and collision prevention back?
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I've backed out of my garage the last few mornings and attempted to use the EV mode and have had a message on the display that reads "EV mode is unavailable at this time" or something to that effect. BTW, the traction battery is at normal charge, about 62%. ????
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Yesterday while driving on the freeway in EV mode, my PIP (one of the first delivered to the states) flashed the "Check Hybrid System - Stop the vehicle in a safe place" message. I was near my house so I just went home. My SG2 showed code P0C3E, which is apparently an inverter over temperature code.
Took it to the dealer this morning and they just informed me that the car needs a new inverter, but no other details… "internal fault" is what he said.
While googling, i found this recall notice:
Green Car Congress: Toyota recalling about 701,000 Gen 3 Prius vehicles in US over software issue in inverter assembly
that doesn't talk specifically about the PIP and implies that it is a software problem, but goes on to say if the car is in a fault condition the inverter will be replaced. of course, it's possible that a software problem leads to hardware damage.
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We drive a 2012 Prius v (lowercase v for the Prius v wagon) 5 with a little under 20,000 miles. This is the situation:
Yesterday afternoon we were driving and the dynamic cruise control went out. The "PCS" indicator is now flashing, and the error code "E3" popped up where the cruise light used to be. If I turn cruise control off and then on again the E3 code will show up after a second or two.
I discovered later that if I turn the car off, turn cruise on right away, and switch to regular cruise that I can use regular cruise. The PCS indicator still flashes though. The interesting thing is that when the E3 code is up, I am unable to use either type of cruise control unless I turn the car off and switch to regular cruise right away. I am not really sure what happened or what to do next.
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My 2007 Santa developed these symptoms recently and need to know if they are related or independent.
1) ESC off message is always lit and button doesn't work.
I checked and replaced fuse 19 in engine bay. Light didn't lit up for next 500 feet and I was able to turn and off with ESC button near knee panel. after that it was back on. My guess is one of 2 Or both 40amp relays in engine bay for ESC is/are bad.
2) Cruise control on/off works but Set doesn't and Cruise is inoperable.
Don't see any fuses for cruise control in engine bay or interior fuse panel.
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I have a 1999 Toyota Camry 2.2 4cyl with 220K+ miles.
I was driving on the freeway when I heard a loud "POP" and rat-tat-tat cracking sound from my engine. I managed to pull over on the road where the car rolled to a stop. I tried to start up the car and the starter cranked, but the engine wouldn't start.
I thought it might be a broken timing belt since a similar situation happened to a family member (who was driving another Camry) a couple of years ago, and we were able to fix the car by changing the worn down timing belt. So today I spent all day taking things apart and finally got to the timing belt, but to my surprise, the belt looks completely fine.
I fear I might've actually blown the engine but don't know how to diagnose this.
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I was driving on the freeway(70mph), when a loud pop noise (sound of a blown tire.) Felt like a wheel bearing seized up then felt rough on the road. Got off the freeway and everything looked normal from the outside. No smell/smoke. While driving home on the back roads, i was hearing a rattle from the trunk area.
Lifted the car and noticed a little bit of fluid on the front of the differential. Didn't find any leaks or puddles. Took the fuse out for the haldex, and drove it around, still feels the same but still hear the rattle. Hoping its not the differential but haven't drained any fluid yet.
Ok, well never mind. brake system locked up on me.
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I have a 2007 Jeep Compass. Driving on the freeway heard loud whine - like the starter engaging. It stopped then started again. The jeep then died. Had it towed to the shop. Starter was "melted" and was replaced. Two days later the same thing happened.
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Everytime I finish driving, and turn off the car, I get "key battery low" beep and on display message....
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10 days ago I bought my '05 Prius to the dealership to get the Brake Recall fix along w/ an oil change and inspection. Since then I took a road trip and put about 1,000 miles on. Two days ago, when pulling up to my house, I got a beep and warning message, since I was home I parked and decided to worry about it later.
The next morning the car turned on but would not move (crawled a bit forward and reverse but was basically dead). I checked the meaning of the warning light and its the Hybrid Systems Warning Light. From the information screen it appears the battery is drained and therefore electric motor won't function.
Of course I'm worried its the expensive battery dying on me but would this happen all at once or slowly over time? Unfortunately I'm at 117,000 mi so the system is out of warranty. My next thought was that something they had with the brake recall may have caused the problem (though it would seem odd it'd take 10 days to happen).
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My local dealer (who seems very good) suggested they repair an oil leak at the timing chain cover before my 60K warranty expired. Kept the car 2 days waiting for parts. Then some very odd problems developed.
First I noticed the AC wasn't working: fan runs but will not blow cold. Dealer said must be something else because they didn't touch the AC. Then after a half hour of driving the AC suddenly starts blowing cold.
Maybe an hour of driving later, the dash beeps, alerts, and "low oil pressure" comes on the screen. Shut it off & have it towed to dealer.
While checking the mileage at the dealer, the service adviser and I both see the dash beep, alert, and ABS and Trak alarms go off.
Tech resets the computer but says he can't find any error codes. Systems and oil pressure all seem ok.
I drive 10 min, and.... beep, alert, "low oil pressure".
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Went to start the car up this morning - foot on brake and pressed the Power button. The car went through its checks but when it finished the 'Welcome to Prius' graphic it did a continuous beeep and displayed 'Check Hybrid System' and didn't start.
I turned it off and tried again and on the third or fourth attempt the car eventually fired up, the error message was gone and there were no warning lights on the dash. The car did smell like it was running rich though.
I turned it off and called the dealers. They said if no warning lights are now on it should be ok to drive the 6 miles to see them and they'll check it on their computer. As I drove to see them the car was running OK but the fuel economy was shocking. I was getting about 40 mpg UK (30 US mpg) as a trip average.
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I have a 2004 VW Phaeton.
Today, the sound system failed, then shortly after, the navigation system failed.
On the console, if I press any map/navigation buttons, the error message "Navigation System Unavailable" is displayed.
If I press an audio related button, the error message "DSP system is unavailable". I took it to a private vw repair shop and a vw dealer. What was causing the issue.
I am now headed to a vw dealer with certified phaeton tech. I looked towards fuse issue, but they appear to be ok..
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The prius I bought with 200+ K buzzes so loud especially on the freeway. There are no engine lights on and it drives great aside from the sound.
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I've got a 2004 F450 that I'm loving, but suddenly having an issue getting it into gear. To get it out of park and into another gear I've got to turn the key a little father towards start (somewhere in between normal after start position and actually engaging the starter) and then the column shifter will actually let me get out of park and into another gear. Once I've done this there is no problem moving between gears. Last, this has to be related since it started at the same time - when I'm in cruise control it takes a greater amount of force on the brake to get the cruise control to shut off. When it finally does, it makes a loud click, almost a bang. If I only lightly push on the brake it won't kick off the cruise control and the engine will increase power to keep the speed and fight me on the brake.
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unlike a lot of my fellow prii folks, i love the beeps. My favorite one is the confirmation of locking the doors by touch of handle and also unlocking by touch. Believe it or not i even like the backup beep which is kind of like a nice confirmation of "yo, dude! we are going backwards" but the most important one for me is the long single loud beep. happened the other day when i got out of my car to get a coke and the car emitted a continuous loud shrill beep as i started to walk away. I was still in drive.
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The cruise control cuts out after driving for 25+ minutes. The rpm's rev up to 4000 and the speedometer goes wild just before cutting off. It can be reset but does not hold for long. Short trips and a cooling-off period for the engine seem to work. The dealer could not replicate the condition.
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So I've had my 2011 Hyundai Sonata since May of 2013 and I've had few problems with it until now. For some reason, at seemingly completely random intervals, my cruise control will completely stop working while I'm driving. What exactly I mean by this is that I'll be driving with cruise control set and suddenly it kicks off and I have to continue by manually controlling the gas pedal. I am also completely unable to turn Cruise back on until I have shut off the car and turned it back on. There are also times where I'll have Cruise control "On" but not using it and suddenly the Cruise indicator light on the dash will disappear, I'll try to turn on Cruise at that point and it will not work. Again this is the case until I turn the car off and then back on again.
I have followed a couple guides on adjusting the wiring harness in the steering wheel, behind the air bag, to make sure it is not a loose connector issue, but this has not seemed to work. Another reason why I think this may be something more than just that is that I'm also having transmission issues that seem to correlate with the times that my car loses the ability to use Cruise Control. Everything is completely fine with the car, including the transmission, until the above mentioned issue occurs, at which point if I happen to be driving below about 50mph, or reach a point where I have to slow down below 50mph, my transmission begins to intermittently disengage and reengage fairly erratically. It has happened a couple times while cruising at around 65-70mph, but has acted the worst bellow 50mph.
To make things even MORE confusing, the transmission issues seem to correct themselves with a simple shut down and restart of the car, just like with the Cruise Control problem. I'm at a complete loss now. I don't want to deal with a dealership unless I absolutely have to.
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As stated in the title, I have a 2000 Isuzu rodeo s fwd v6 SUV. While driving on the road recently I lost my speedometer, odometer, and cruise control. The odometer is digital and I can still read the display when the car is on, however the number never changes. There is a little over 185 K on the odometer. I did some research on my own and figured the problem was my vehicle speed sensor (VSS). I thus bought one, changed it without problems, yet my problem persists.
Now when I drive for a bit, and come to a stop my vehicle sometimes stalls. Not all the time though. I figure even though the VSS is good (I changed the second one I put in again for a factory VSS and still I get no change) maybe the signal isn't getting to the ECM. What are my other options for the issue? Could it be the cluster behind the console? Is there a speedometer cable in this vehicle that could be causing this problem? Is there some little selenoid somewhere that is bad and is causing these problems?
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This has happened 3 or 4 times now while driving down the road. Just cruising down the road the CC will just cut out. I'll hit the "set accel" button on the wheel and all is good again until it randomly decides to do it again.
The only thing I've changed recently is the rear end speed sensor to cure the ABS light. I wouldn't/didn't think this would have any effect on the cruise control, but IDK, maybe I'll put the original one back in and test it.
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I was driving slowly with cruise control on when the check engine light came on, a few restarts and it still didn't go away. All fluid levels are OK, no other errors show up on start-up or driving and the car drives fine on both ICE and EV modes.
I'm bringing the car in first thing tomorrow. I called my usual Lexus guy and he didn't know what the problem could be either. I'm a bit freaked out, to be honest. Wish I had an OBD dongle to use with Carista.
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