Prius V :: 2013 - Low Voltage Battery After Sitting?
Jun 21, 2015
We have a 2013 Prius V. We found our car out of battery on Friday - the 12V battery was very undercharged - the AAA tech read the numbers but I forget now exactly.
Clearly, we don't drive the car frequently enough. Two years and we haven't hit the 10,000miles mark yet. We did get back from a 500 mile road trip though on Sunday and drove the car twice (within a 5-10 mile radius - city driving). Yesterday & today I did an average of 60 odd miles but was often stuck in traffic so the battery indicator in the display doesn't show full either.
We have also kept the same "lifestyle" the last two years and never had an issue. I did check if any lights were left on but nothing was in the "on" position.
We were recommended both by AAA & the Toyota shop to keep a battery maintainer or just drive 200 odd miles a week! The AAA mechanic said, maybe the battery is conked out but the Toyota folks didn't say anything about it.
Our issue is that our car is parked in the basement of an apartment building and find no plug points nearby or even within a range we could try to get an extension cord. And even if we did talk to management and find a hook up, how would the logistics of it work? We are in an urban area and can't really leave a car unlocked.
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As our Pri age, sooner or later the 12 v battery will fail and at exactly the wrong time. So perhaps preventive maintenance means replacing it just before failure. What has been the experience of other owners of 2010's as far as failure goes?
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I think the 12v agm battery is starting to go on our 03 prius. It wouldn't start after 4 days no use but did after 2. What is a healthy resetting voltage (with nothing turned on) for this agm battery as I'll check it with a multimeter? What is considered an unhealthy voltage?
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I have an opportunity to get a high voltage battery from a salvage Prius. I don't need a replacement now but thought having an extra battery would be a good idea. How long can the battery be stored? Maybe switch them out every few months to keep both charged?
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2005 Prius shows a C1241 code, which can mean abnormally high or low positive voltage in the auxiliary battery. In my case it appears to be abnormally high, because my voltmeter showed the battery charged to 18 volts with the car off, and when running it showed 20 volts going to the battery. There's also a POA80 code (hybrid battery pack) but I'm not convinced yet that it's a hybrid battery problem. What would cause the overcharging of the auxiliary battery?
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I had my 2005 Prius sitting idle for three days and when I last used the car it had 6 bars of battery (blue). Today I turn it on and it has only 2 bars of battery (purple) and the engine stayed on about 10 minutes to charge the battery. After about 10 minutes it went all the way to 7 bars (green) and the engine did its normal idle stop. Is it normal for the battery to drain that much in only a few days?
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i have a 2007 toyota camry LE, around 55,000 miles I wanted to install LED's under the dash on both driver and passenger sides using a tap-a-fuse adapter.. I tried tapping a fuse using the CIG lighter on the engine compartment.. it didn't work.. but i noticed after i failed the battery light came on.. then I checked all the fuses.. they were all fine. I got it checked by one mechanic he said its an alternator issue.. i now have 78,000 miles on the car and had no issues with the battery, start ups, or anything. I did however get a battery test and i was a little low on voltage but till this day i still have the battery light on but my car runs perfectly fine. Can it be a code issue?
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I was getting in my Touareg this morning after going to the doctor. As I turned onto the freeway onramp I noticed I had no turn signals at all and my battery voltage was pegged at zero and not fluctuating at all.
Had the battery replaced about 2,000 miles ago when I got the standard System Fault message, but it has started fine since. Even started fine this morning, etc.
Drove to the dealer while I was on the cell with my service manager who knows me by name.. I get there and shut the car off. Turn the alarm on and off and re-started it. Same thing....no turn signals and as I started it the battery voltage went up to 10 and back down to zero.
We're planning to leave it for service and it clears itself. Turn it on and off about 10 times with no error again.....very weird. Dealer needed to order some other warranty parts so they are going to check for any errors when I drop it off next week.
My voltage is consistently in the 12.5 to 13.5 range. Never at 14 volts. My tech at this dealer checked my vehicle the last time when they replaced the battery and said nothing needed to be replaced. Checked all the TSB's, etc. He and his wife have a T'reg so he seems to know his stuff.
I've heard the talk about the 14 volt reading, but he said that is not true, though it does have to have a 12.5 volt or above reading at all times per what he said. Service manager said they saw something similar last week and that owner was also getting some heavy radio static. I noticed some faint radio static, but was also listening to an AM station at the time. I do have NAV.
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The P3cars gauge to read battery voltage is misleading since it is reading the voltage when the alternator is running. How do i get it to read the actual battery voltage without the engine running?
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Recently the car was stuttering under hard acceleration and battery voltage dropped, I have a batt gauge. Got harness replaced and symptoms are gone but this must be happening to others with or without symptoms.
Check your fuse box on top of the battery. The alternator harness wire turns silver after many years of use. Your battery volts will drop also and you can see it with a gauge. I changed this harness and symptoms went away. It's the thick gauge wire all the way to the left. This needs to be changed with a new alternator. Many people prob don't know their harness is causing high resistance affecting the quality of smoothness.
The hotter the car gets the worse it gets if you have this issue. More RPMS, is more electricity and more resistance. There is no CEL for this. The harness should be copper colored, if it turns silver it's old and needs to be swapped. If you drive low Rpms all the time you won't notice. But it's an R, who does this?
The harness is around $90 and car has to be in service mode to get to the alternator. This is my 2nd alternator and kept my original harness when replaced, bad idea.
It takes under 20 seconds to pop the hood and open the fuse box to see what color your harness cable is. I expect most to be silver not copper, but whether you have symptoms or not depends on severity.
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1999 Ford E350 Triton V8 ... I'm having an issue with battery voltage, and it only happens once in a while.
Sometimes, while on the highway, my voltage will drop suddenly, the battery light flickers then after a couple seconds... ding! The voltmeter jumps back up to it's normal operating voltage.
It may only happen once, or maybe 3 times in a row, or never. I cannot get it to reproduce.
I had the battery checked, that's fine. I'm doubting the alternator is the issue. What other factors could I consider?
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2004 V8 Touareg. Was getting all the "low voltage" error messages. "workshop fault" "headlight adjust" "brake system". Then one day I used my second key and get a "Key Battery not Found" message.
Dealer says the "low voltage" error messages have to be reprogrammed out of the computer and cannot be simply cleared. FYI I have a vagcom. They say there is no fix and I can either pay for a new battery or come back in to have them reprogram when they come up again. Is this true? New battery makes no sense to me as the battery is only two yrs old. Seems like quite the hassle as any cold weather and not starting up the car for a couple of days and I got to make a trip to the dealer. Is there a fix for this?
"Key Battery not Found"- Never saw this message until I used my second key. It obviously has a key battery since it opens the doors. Dealer is stumped and they wanted me to pick up the vehicle telling me that it was fine and the message didn't mean anything.
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So, I get back from vacay and find my baby has a new issue.... the "battery" light came on just after I started it up after my 10 days away.
I can drive it seemingly ok, it did do some cool flashing and lost display and radio on one trip but now it seems not as bad.
I did a volt meter chack on the batt terminals and have 12.3 or 12.4 with key off and 14.9 with engine running. I turned on the headlights and rear defroster and get 14.6V on the terminals. 21.6A running to the main fuse block right by the rad,
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My 2006 V8 sat for about 5 days last week. It started but apparently was flashing all kinds of low voltage alarms (according to my daughter, I was out of town)... She moved it aside and used another car... I charged the battery and cleared codes with the VCDS but within a day the battery was flat again. Battery test recommended replacing battery so I put a brand new battery in on Wednesday. We took the car on a trip of some 300 miles with no problems at all on Thursday, I drove the car Friday and Saturday with no indication of any problems (voltmeter in dash always sitting at 14+ volts, no messages or indications of any problems). Today (Sunday) battery is way flat again; my intelligent charger indicates 100% charge but just over 6 volts in the battery, and, based on the 100 % charge indications, stops charging and goes into Maintainer mode. My battery tester confirms the ~6 volts and recommends replacing the (brand new !) battery.
The battery management controller is: 3D0 915 181 D this being a 2006 should have the "updated" controller...
The car, suppose it is possible that this brand new battery is faulty but I believe it is much more likely something has gone haywire with the Phaeton...
Something is draining the battery after the car off and locked (I was alerted to look at the car because the lock lights on the door sill were no longer flashing).
If I can't charge up the battery to 12 volts yet another battery is indicated !?
In reading about battery problems I have never seen a suggestion on a particular device that fails ON and causes such a severe drain...
If the battery is in fact not being charged by the alternator how would this be checked ?
When I noticed no flashing lock lights on the car my first action was to disconnect the left (accessory) battery by taking off the negative lead. I then connected the charger which gave the indication of 100% charge but only 6 volts, and wouldn't charge beyond this. I disconnected the charger and connected the battery tester, which confirmed the 6 volt reading and recommended a new battery. I had to move the car as it was blocking other cars; I reconnected the battery and started the car by turning key to the left and back to the right, it started with "please start the engine" and a "level system fault" as expected, I could hear the switching relay in the trunk going on and off as expected, and I moved the car, left it running for a few minutes to move other cars, and parked it. I again removed the negative lead of the left hand battery and reconnected the charger. The "intelligent" charger now read 11.8 volts or so and a 16 % charge level, more reasonable but totally confusing as to why it changed. I disconnected the charger and used the battery tester which also read about 11.8 volts and, good news I guess, rated the battery OK. Right now the charger is reconnected and we'll see if it will bring the battery up to 12 volts and 100% charge...
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Today my 98 Expedition just started at 50 mph or 3000 rpm with battery light flickering and voltage fluctuation toward high end of 18 volts. Battery is 1 month old. No problems under 45 mph or 2500 rpm.
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I do run a small battery maintainer during the winter months plugged into a three way with the block heater. Alright after sitting out side for approx 9-10 hrs in 22 degree weather I did these checks. Battery voltages at 12.55V and 12.6V on batteries.
Voltage coming into for was also 12.5V. When glow plugs activated I am getting 11V on the other side of the gpr. After cycling glow plugs battery voltages drop to 9.6V during cranking and as soon as she starts back to 12.5V.
Do these numbers sounds right? In my opinion isn't the drop to 9.6V during cranking a little low or is that the normal?
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I spent a lot of time on the 7.3 forum, but I'm still new to the 6.0, so bear with me.
I've noticed that when I start my truck the battery voltage (as shown on SCT Livewire TS) often dips down to 11 or even 10.5 volts. The batteries are almost new, dated March 2016. When cruising down the highway voltage is about 12.7-13, sometimes a little higher. The alternator is also less than a year old
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1995 Cadillac DeVille 4.9 L Check engine soon light comes on, battery voltage high. When I increase speed the head lamps get brighter when I decrease speed the head lamps get dimmer. I changed the alternator because that's what a mechanic said I needed but I still have the problen battery voltage high. Will this damage the battery or other components? Should I stop driving the car.
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After not driving the car for over a week, the battery was dead and I discovered that I had not fully shut the trunk. I hooked up a charger/maintainer with the battery still installed in the car and it has been on for 48+ hours and it still shows as charging. I have several of the chargers and use them on other cars/motorcycles where they work as expected. I've never had one take this long to indicate charged.
I'm sure others are using maintainers and wondering if it is normal that the charger does not indicate full charge. Voltage with charger running is ~14.7 and ~13.7 unhooked. I believe it is a 4a charger.
What is normal voltage when fully charged and what is minimum voltage to crank starter?
Should have measured the voltage before hooking up the charger to know low it was......
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My Battery light came on on my dash and my scangauge 2 was reading 11.5/11.4 volts yesterday afternoon, I ran for codes on my obd-2 and P0528 came up. I picked up one new battery and put that in to see if that would bring my voltage up at all. Today it was reading 11.3/11.2 volts. From what I've gathered the P0528 is most likely the fan clutch or the harness connecting the fan clutch to the PCM.
I've seen the water pump replacement write up that shows how to pull the fan assembly. My questions are - can the fan clutch be replaced without draining/pull the radiator? or is it better off to just do the coolant flush and pull the radiator. And would the fan clutch/harness issue drop the voltage or would that just be two bad batteries?
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Bit of a confusing one as of late. Doesn't happen every time I drive, maybe 50% of the time. When I start the truck up, torque pro reads voltage at 13.9-14.1 consistent. After 30 minutes it usually drops to around 13.7/13.8. Sometimes, battery light comes on, voltage doesn't drop. I can drive the truck, park it, turn it off, restart, no side effects.
I notice if I stop, turn off the truck, and restart it, torq pro will begin to read a voltage of 12.8.13.0. Sometimes it won't budge for an hour, sometimes it climbs right back up to 13.8, sometimes the battery light goes off, sometimes it stays on.
Alternator was replaced a month ago, both batteries replaced a week ago, all terminals cleaned and secured at the time of replacement. Truck behaves perfectly normal, I'm almost at the point of putting a piece of tape over the light and ignoring it, but was curious before I go that route.
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