Starts fine. Runs fine till warmed up. Then dies at idle and runs rough on gear till 1000 rpm. Has only coded iac when unplugged. But would idle with it unplugged. I replaced it. Also got crank can code once while checking it ...
2001 dodge ram 1500 318 engine ....
Having some problems with my 92 Nissan NX2000. i just finished changing the clutch on the car now its acting horrible.
When i start the car, it will run decent for like 2 or 3 seconds then the idle drops down till it almost dies, catches itself, idle goes up to about 500 were it will pulse around for a few seconds until it dies. If i rev it it will stay running, kept it running for about 2 mins. but as soon as i let off it will pulse at 500 until it dies
After i changed the clutch it started up fine, it ran great for about 20 seconds before it just died. when i started it after is when the problem arose.
I took a video of the car running, which can be seen here. [URL] .... (It has never caught itself like that before and jumped up to 1000 rpms before. It normally will die at that point)
The video is really quiet, not sure what happened there. if need be i can get a video of the engine bay so its louder, was mainly focused on the RPMs.
Here's a few things i tried: Checked fuses, Changed spark plug wires, made sure they were all seated good, MAF wires were rubbed a bit so i cut the MAF pigtail off one of my other sentras and soldered it on,Changed to a good battery, Changed fuel filter, Added more gas (in cause gauge is broken), Made sure all connectors are plugged in, Checked around for vacuum leaks, found that one of the large hoses coming off the intake going to the engine had separated so i plugged them back in and nothing.
3.0, SOHC engine...car started for coolant system leak check. Idle jumped to. 3000 RPMs. Shut car off...disconnected throttle cable from throttle body. Started car again, engine ran normally, no coolant leak found. Reconnected accelertor cable to throttle body. Tried starting car again, started rough then died after a few seconds. Changed fuel filter...disconnected fuel line to fuel rail and lots of comes out. MFI solenoid inside car clicks several times after engine dies. Engine tries to run, but wont, after it dies. ECU bad? Other issue?
View 4 RepliesA few days ago, I went to start the car, and it will start, and idle fine for a few seconds, and then begin to run crappy, idle down, and die. I tried starting it, and giving it some accelerator pedal, and it dies. I changed the timing belt, idler pulley, and tensioner this summer, so I'm ruling out a bad timing belt. There is no check engine light, and I replaced the plug wires because when I removed the cover, I noticed one of them was worn in a spot, and the wire shielding inside the rubber insulation was visible.
View 11 RepliesLet me start with I have a 2003 f250 5.4. The motor blew on my truck and I had a 100k motor dropped in it. I've put new spark plugs, ohmd out the coils. I tried both sets of injectors. cat delete and new fuel pump. It has rough idle and stalls but runs fine at higher rpms. Also has basically no brakes. I am thinking vacuum but I've check all the lines. No codes either!! also cleaned throttle body.
View 4 RepliesTruck in question has 175k, is the TBI version (fuel injected carburetor design), has had the plugs cap and rotor replaced fairly recently.
When cold, it starts and runs normally. As it warms (after around 20 miles) it starts running rough, then after getting warmer/full operating temp, it will stall at stop signs and runs very rich - so rich you can smell the unburned fuel. At this point it is also difficult to start and requires adding some gas pedal.
I am thinking a vacuum issue, or something that is not allowing it to transition from the warm up cycle to normal cycle.
I bought a 2012 GTI with 6-speed manual two weeks ago. It has ~42k miles and it has been running great for the past 2 weeks until tonight. Went with my wife and son to the store and then the problems started. We got in the car to leave, it started fine, but died suddenly a few seconds later at idle when we were trying to get my son buckled in. I thought maybe I did something odd and it was me, so I turned the key off and tried to start again. It was a rough start(took a second) then idled roughly under 1k rpm and died shortly after. I tried one more time, same thing. There were no CELs at all, just the battery light after it died like normal.
At this point I'm thinking it may be that the timing chain tensioner gave out and that's the problem, so I decide to get a ride back to the house for my laptop and Vag-Com before trying to start or run it anymore. I get a ride, grab those, and head back to the car. When I get back in the car I realized my laptop battery was dead, so I decided to try to start it one more time. This time is starts just fine and I'm able to drive home without any trouble at all. No hick-ups, no stalls, no low-idle or anything. I was able to run the Vag-Com Auto Scan on my other laptop at the house and will have the readout below.
The only code thrown was on the immobilizer at 69157km which would have been when I had a replacement key cut and coded at the dealership I bought it from(a local VW dealer). I ran this scan with the key on but engine off and after realizing it wasn't giving me any codes at all I decided to run the scan with the engine running. Well, when I tried to start the car to run the scan, it died on me at idle again. So I left the key on(after the car died) and ran the scan and got the same results as below. I was then again able to start the car and drive it around the block and then park with it idling without any problems at all.
I don't understand this at all. The car has been running perfectly until now for as long as I've had it. I just changed the oil and filter this past weekend for Mobil 1 0w50 and OEM filter. And I've only run 93 octane in it, which it currently has a 7/8 full tank. I'll be calling/going by the dealership tomorrow to try and sort this out.
- I just ran VCDS data logging on the fuel system while trying to start my car just now (after sitting for ~30 minutes)
- While running I watched 106 Fuel Rail Pressure - Actual drop from ~40bar down to 6.5bar
- I was able to tap the accelerator peddle and it jumped back up to ~40bar
- After evening back out and not stalling again, I ran Autoscan and came up with:
000135 - Fuel Rail/System Pressure
P0087 - 000 - Too Low - Intermittent
I went ahead and ordered a new fuel pump and seal and received them this afternoon. I've already replaced the pump and have driven around a good bit this afternoon to test things. One of the big things I've noticed is that even though I still have the rear seat bottom out of the car, I can barely hear the new pump, where as the old one was noticeable. I'll update again if I run into any other issues.
2003 Elantra gt 90,0000 miles manual transmission. Rough idle under 1000 rpm it smooths out completely above 1000 rpm.
Also the engine makes a ticking noise from a cold start up. It stops making the ticking noise after 1500rpm or when the engine warms up.
Occasionally the car has a sputtering backfire. This happens when I park the car after being on the highway.
Replaced the plugs, wires, and the pcv valve. Dropped the oil pan and it and the oil pump pick up screen were clean.
The only check engine light to come on was for the speed sensor. It has since gone out on it's own.
Getting these lean codes P1131, P1151, P0171, P0174. I was getting a knock sensor code before but not now. It will not idle it just dies and runs rough till I get at higher rpms gotta feather the brake and gas to go anywhere.
View 5 Replieswhat part is causing car to be unable to idle without me keeping my foot on gas till it's warmed up in morning? It does not act like that at lunchtime & 5pm no matter what the temp gauge reads when I get in it at lunchtime & 5pm: at those times, it just cranks and stays on till I shut it off.
View 1 RepliesI just replaced the water pump and put it all back together, now it won't run well enough to drive. Checked vacuum system, all sensor connections, hoses, gas cap, changed fuel filter, I can hear the fuel pump kick in, reset system with battery disconnected and have looked at everything I can think of so far.
Now - starts fine, idles about 10 seconds and then begins to idle rough and dies. If I use the throttle I can often keep the idle up, but then backfires or acts like no fuel and again dies. Used fuel cleaner and made sure there was plenty fuel in tank.
I am looking at replacing sensors at this point but which one first?? They get a bit expensive real quick.
I have an issue with my 7.3.... the truck will not start if it sits overnight without being plugged in, even in 65 degree weather. It starts and runs with a rough idle for about 10 seconds after its been plugged in for an hour, after the rough idle is gone it runs great .. it will Stat back up as long as the truck is warm (70+).... I've replaced the batteries, glow plugs, starter (it was going bad) and fuel filter. .. also replaced the gpr today. ....
View 14 RepliesReconditioned engine 5,000 miles ago. Last maintenance check at dealer found nothing wrong. 2000 Honda CRV.
View 4 RepliesThis problem has been getting worse over the last 2 years. When the car starts it idles fine at about 1000 RPM. As soon as it warms up, it starts to idle rough, between 500 and 750 RPM. It almost quits running. As soon as you give the car some gas it runs just fine. About 3 weeks ago I got a "Engine Lean" check engine light error. I reset the system and have not gotten the error again. Since then I have: changed the MAF cleaned the EGR (made sure it closes completely and ohm out the coils in the actuator) changed the O2 meter on the exhaust manifold cleaned out the throttle body Ohmed out the air idle controller. What I should check next. I was planning to check the fuel pressure in case it is a fuel system problem. It is a 1999 ....
View 5 RepliesI have an 04 w12 with 80k miles on it. It will start fine but will not run for more than 10 seconds. As it idles down from startup it settles to about 700 RPM's where it normally does then dies. If u drive it it will start and go into gear fine as u go to pull away it loses all power and dies. I have checked the minor things i know like air filters, oil, tranny juice all appears normal. New batteries less than 3 months ago also.
View 11 RepliesThe car will start up and drive just fine but as soon as you turn it off, it will not turn back on. If you wait three to four hours it will restart with no problem. This repeats its self daily. When you turn the key the dash lights come on but will not crank at all. I am skeptical that it might be the alarm system;however, there is no key fab and no code for the check engine. It has 170K miles. Laughing, my sweet husband dictated this...my first attempt to describe the problem was long and rambling!
View 7 RepliesMy daughters 2005 Hyundai Elantra has 77,000 miles om it. Just changed the wires and plugs, new brakes. Now, it runs very rough when stopped at a light and it is in gear. Now, when she has the AC running, and she stops at a stoplight, she has to put it in neutral or the engine will almost but not quite kill.
View 2 RepliesThis car has had trouble since the get-go and am considering never buying another Kia again, but since its my only car as of right now, I need it to be running clean and good, which is not the case at the moment.
I have had another big problem with my Kia for almost a week now. Every time I crank her up, it starts fine, but then it has a horrible time idling and staying idle. After ten seconds or so, it dies out and emits a big hiss (sounds like someone is sighing, but worse).
So had a trusted friend mechanic come over and look at it. At first, he thought it could have been a clogged Cat Converter, since I have known for a while that it's bad and just don't want to spend a grand on the car since it's not even worth that much anymore. He tried running a diagnostics to see what codes were popping up, but for some reason the car doesn't want to give a code.
So my friend did an overall inspection of the car and recommended that maybe a spark plug/wire change could do the trick. It didn't. We changed it but still had the same problem.
Then he went to the trunk of my car and tested the fuel pump, which then he had a glimmer of hope since he said there was barely any pressure going to the fuel pump. So we got a new fuel pump. Can you guess what happened next? Yep, the car still had the same problem.
Then he went back to the hood and looked it over. He didn't like what he saw on the CAM sensor, so he did a test on that, too. First he ran the car with it in, and it rough idled and then died. But, interestingly enough, he took it out and the car ran a lot smoother, albeit only a couple of seconds, before it finally decided to quit. But it did run smooth, so our hope was back.
So we went back to Advanced and got a new CAM sensor. Tried it on the engine. Our hope was crushed. Same problem, rough idle, then it chokes out. Then he looked at the wires and noticed they looked pretty bad, and the next time I started it up for him, he said they "exploded".
He got on his mechanic website to look up the wiring diagrams for the car to try and find the ECU, but he didn't want to take the car apart to get to it, and it was dark, so we called it a day.
I'm going to try and get AAA to tow it to his Honda Dealership tomorrow so he can get some second opinions on it and have more tools to work with to try and get this beast running. But hopefully it could just be that faulty wiring?
I have a V6 with 162,000 miles. A year ago in the early spring we replaced the alternator, starter, fuel pump, lines, filter, dropped and cleaned the tank, fuel coils, repaired / replaced almost all injectors, spark plugs.Since April of last year, every few months my Car would have a hiccup of that it starts fine but would immediately die out. It would take anywhere from 5 to 30 minutes of trying to get it to start again. Other than that it would run beautifully. This week, while on the road it would jolt and die out. It happened 3 times. Yesterday morning it would once again crank fine and immediately die out. It will no longer keep running. We have not been able to keep my car started since then.
View 14 RepliesI am working on my father's boss' 2004 Phaeton V8. The car usually sits on the weekends. What it is doing is, it will start and run smooth, but after 15 seconds, on the dot, it stalls and dies. It sounds like it is starving for fuel.
What I have done so far:
LH intake actuator arm found broken, replaced both with "Gruvenparts"
Checked all fuses and relays
LH fuel pump reads 14 volts until the relay kicks it off
Tested fuel pressure-good
Batteries fully charged
LH fuel pump reads 0.7 ohms w/key off
RH fuel pump reads 6.0 M-ohms when first connected and gradually climbs to 31.5 M-ohms
(I assumed this meant RH pump was bad and so I pulled it out and bench-tested. Ran perfect and tested at 0.7 ohms out of the car)
Re-assembled everything to pull the car out of the shop, and wouldn't you know it started and ran like normal.
Road-tested for 2 hours the next day without any problems.
So, I call the customer to pick it up and he says he will be there 2 days later.
Our car starts, then dies. It starts fine, then dies. This only happens in warm weather, which we have finally been experiencing in Northern Illinois. It eventually gets to the point where we can drive it, but then might die at a stop sign, or it can go the rest of the day and not have any difficulties. I know later models have timing chains, not belts. Does our car have a timing belt problem or maybe fuel pump? And why only in warm weather?
View 7 Replies