S-10 :: High Revving In Neutral Until Vehicle Comes To A Complete Stop


Feb 15, 2006

I've been dealing with this for over a year. 97 s-10 (4.3, 4wd, 5spd) always wants to keep revving. When I put it in neutral and coast, the rpms rise. When in gear, it powers itself down the road even when I'm off the gas. The part that really gets me, is that it will keep revving in neutral until the vehicle comes to a COMPLETE STOP. Then, it drops to a nice idle within 2-3 seconds. I don't understand what the momentum of the vehicle has to with the revving of the engine when its in neutral.? I replaced the IAC valve (and set the pintle) and tried to clean up everything I could. It seemed to be better for only a little while. Faulty new part? Is the IAC getting "gummed up" quickly because of something else?

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I just brought my gti in for the 20K oil change etc... I have noticed something weird... when I accelerate hard or have been driving for a while, and then shift into neutral or push in the clutch, the engine revs up to almost 2K, then back down to 1K once or twice, then finally settles to 700rpm's. It doesn't do it cold, or when I have the AC running.

I have no CEL's, and the dealer just said they ran a fault check, and it was clear. I do have an APR exhaust and a K&N intake (I think stage1 tune)... I asked about the PCV valve, and they said that would throw a code... They said they could do additional diagnostics out of warranty, since they think it has to be part of my aftermarket stuff.

I don't know if it's related, but if I really jump on it, in 5th gear or so, I can hear the car losing a little rpm's then around 4K just for a second, then it's goes back to normal... This only happened once or twice, so maybe it was just in my head...

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I have about 05 with 110000 miles on car and have started to notice that the motor sounds like it is revving up when I come to a complete stop or even hyper miling. I have plenty of juice in battery Not Green and Not Orange. While at a complete stop if I switch from Park/drive/Neutral some times it will then shut off.

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Today while driving, I was declining down a rather steep grade. I had my cruise control set at 65mph. As I was driving, I heard an odd noise, almost like my Prius was "revving" in a neutral gear. The battery was at a full or near full charge when this happened.

I found somewhere "What you're hearing is the engine braking - just what you'd expect when using B. The engine spins (pumps air) to slow down. At some point, if you have heavily charged your battery on the descent, the engine will be spun by the electric motor just to bleed off that excess electricity."

Only problem being, I was not in the "B" gear, I was in "D".

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finding out what is wrong with my Taurus. I have searched all over the internet not finding any posts about a similar problem. When driving after I turn past a certain point only to the left not to the right. The car slips into neutral revving, then once Ive straitened out somewhere along the wheel turning radius it re-engages in gear and lurches forward. The car drives fine and shifts smoothly except this.

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While braking, the car is revving up to about 1500 rpm and causing the vehicle to shudder and buck as if it wants to take off with no throttle input. The car is an automatic and this is the information relayed to me via my sister.

The car is a 2002 Jetta 2.0 automatic wagon.

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Does your Golf R Rev past 5K when at a standstill in Neutral? I just finished installing the New South performance Gauge. I routed the boost line hose through the firewall. I used the supplied T fitting and replaced the stock one. I hooked everything up but the power for the boost gauge, just testing and checking everything before I proceed.

I put back on the battery without replacing the battery clamp at the bottom. But I connect and tighten the terminals. I am testing it now to see if all is functioning as it should. I start up the car, and I the vac sucks down to -10 PSI as I expect it.

Then I give it a rev to see if it will build boost. Almost immediately I notice a problem. Seems that the engine wont rev past 4-5K.

So I think, okay, well I probably didn't tighten it down properly, and I have a boost leak. So I pull off the engine cover, and put back on the stock hose. clamp it down, put back on the engine cover, and start the engine again.. The same thing... wont rev past 4-5

I look on the dash and two things pop up. one, the check tire light, and two the tires slipping light is solid. (I thought that VW didn't have active TPS sensors in the these cars anymore, but instead are using wheel rotation to calculate air pressure loss, if this is the case, then why would the check tires light just turn on when it wasn't moved. Could the fact that I disconnected the battery cause an issue? with this?)

I am still thinking boost leak. So I get some soapy water and spray around the only hose that I took off on all the joints, I put back the cover and connect the MAF again. then I start the engine, I figure a few revs will build enough boost to show any leaks in that area with bubbles. But no bubbles...

So now I am wondering if VW put a safety that prevents the engine from revving past 5k when in neutral. I would rather not move the car, until I know for sure that there is nothing wrong.

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I'm sure it's been mentioned before, but if you need to put an 01-03 Prius into Neutral with dead battery (i.e. to push the car so you can reach it with jumper cables) you need to remove the rectangular panel on the bottom drivers side of the steering column. It's tiny, smaller than a postage stamp. Use a strong pen-knife or very small screwdriver to pop the panel out.

You may want to remove the panel when things are good, so if you ever have to use the gearshift release you don't have to hunt around for a knife since it's on pretty tight from the factory. (just leave it off once removed).

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History : December, car engine died. Replaced coils and spark plugs. Issues with RPM at stop started.

Two weeks ago, engine light stay on and warning light with triangle on, Diagnose a misfire. They replace Mass Air Assembly.

Today, they replaced the crank case valve Assembly to fix the issue but continues to be the same. The same valve was replace four months ago.

Is this normal and according to the dealer it is working fine. Bad coils?

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