While braking, the car is revving up to about 1500 rpm and causing the vehicle to shudder and buck as if it wants to take off with no throttle input. The car is an automatic and this is the information relayed to me via my sister.
The car is a 2002 Jetta 2.0 automatic wagon.
I have an '01 gti glx that I just swapped a motor into. I got the motor out of an '01 jetta glx, exact match AFP engine code.
I get cylinder 2 misfires mostly (high number) but I also get 5 and 6 intermittently as well as a P0300 code.
Sometimes I also need to hold the gas down just to get it to start even after the crank sensor.
The engine idles sometimes at 600 rpm but drops and nearly stalls after revving at all.
What I've tried so far:
working cam sensor from my old vr
brand new crank sensor
brand ned wires/plugs
new fuel filter
swapped injectors of misfiring cylinders from old motor
lined up the timing 3 times now and its still perfect
I know the coil pack works because it was on my old motor, which ran fine, just leaked oil.
Will overfilling transmission fluid cause hard shifts? I used ~4.3 quarts to refill. How much should I drain out? My check engine light came on.
Basically, I am having hard shifts from 2-3 and 3-4 in tip mode and auto. more tip mode tho.
-I did a complete solenoid change b/c of cold start problem with n92 solenoid.
Fixed the cold start shifting out of first.
-Did a trans fluid change with Mercon V ATF Fluid works fine.
-Just changed oil on 4th of July last week.
Yesterday my check engine light came on. It's been about 500 miles since the solenoid change/trans fluid change, and 100 miles since the oil change.
Now my Mk4 is having this obnoxious shifting. I am thinking I possibly added too much trans fluid into my system as I do not have the VAGcom tool.
I drained out (bone dry drain till no more dripping from check/drain plug), roughly 4 quarts. I added 4.3 give or take 0.1 quarts back into the car.
Now I'm worried because everywhere I'm reading says anywhere from as little as 2.1 quarts to 3.5 quarts.
Should I drain out 0.5 quarts (because I know theres over 4 in there now) to make it 3.5 quarts?
Or should I just redrain the whole thing and start by measure one quart at a time?
The following occurs: When car is in PARK there is no strange vibration even with AC on.
When DRIVE is engaged, vibration begins, even worse with AC on. Once the car accelerates vibration is gone.
I went to the authorized dealer service shop and they told me that this symptom is typical of these cars, they even sat me in some other cars to prove that these vibrations are normal.....
1.8T revving in idle and I can't figure out if it's injectors or fuel pump.
View 3 RepliesSo the other day I went to the mechanic for him to see what code(s) were causing my CEL. He simply told me that there was an issue with the throttle body and it didn't know what position to be in; he cleared the codes, clean the throttle body and said if the light came on again I needed a new tb. The CEL came back on, but his diagnosis doesn't make sense to me.
From what I've researched if the throttle body had this issue the car would run like crap; however, it runs fine. Smooth idle, good throttle response, accelerates smoothly through the rev range, and I'm still getting decent fuel economy. Given that, it doesn't seem like it's the TPS either, and the tb was just cleaned so I'm confused. Could it actually be the throttle body, or is there some sensor that has just gone bad? The car is a 2000 Golf with an AEG engine & 5-speed box.
And here are a couple pic for clicks of a stock-ish car.....
I recently bought a 2001 Golf 1.8t and everything was running smoothly until a few days ago.
I had to change the timing belt because I have 80,000 miles on my car, and the day I was going to my mechanic, I scanned the codes, and the p0301 and p0303 codes came up. The two codes are cylinder one misfire and the cylinder three misfire. So, I switched the two bad coils with the supposedly good coils to see if the codes changed, and when I scanned it again, the bank 2 lean 1 code came up. I had my mechanic look at the spark plugs and when we checked the plugs, there was oil ABOVE the plug, leading us to believe the misfire was from oil leaking in because of bad spark plug tube seals/valve cover gasket.
Regardless, I bought four new factory coils and four new factory spark plugs and factory valve cover gasket and spark plug tube seals. I replaced them today and I was hoping, in a perfect world, my misfire would stop and my car would stop sputtering and revving and fluttering my RPM's. I was wrong. The only other thing under the hood that I can think would have anything to do with it is that the PCV hose is just about fully ripped, but I'm not sure If that would still make my car sputter and cause my car to misfire.
I have a 2005 Jetta 1.8t and the thing will not start! The battery is fine, and has been recharged 100%. The fuel pump is pumping. It cranks all day, but just won't start. The only error code i'm getting is a P0411 which I understand is a leak in the vacuum system somewhere.
View 5 RepliesI have a 337 with Injen cai. Well, I have since removed the cai due to the fact that rainwater/water during a car wash will run off the hood and onto the top of the inside of the drivers side fender (under hood) and eventually run down onto the filter itself, thus causing it to become water logged. This of course is not good. My question.. I've tried so many things to no avail.
View 7 RepliesI have a raspy exhaust leak sounding noise when I start my 2003 GTi 1.8t that cuts off just a few minutes after I start the car and a fellow owner told me he thought it was a vacuum pump that has rivets that fail and allow the case to separate and cause this noise. Where this pump is located? This former coworker of mine said he replaced the rivets with long slender screws and nuts after removing the rivets but I lost contact with him and don't know where this pump is located.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2002 VW MK4 1.8t. It has 172,000 miles on it. Since i bought the car i have had to add coolant from time to time due to leaks from various plastic coolant parts so I replaced the crappy plastic connectors and flanges as they failed but it has never overheated till a couple days ago. It rose up to about 210'F but I didn't let it get to 260'F (aka the red zone).
While the temperature was up, the coolant was spraying everywhere causing white smoke under the hood. I stopped and looked under the hood and came up with the conclusion it was the coolant flange that holds the temp sensor since it was leaking coolant from the flange like a faucet hince the reason it caused it to overheat due to lost of pressure and no coolant in the system. So I replaced the part and gaskets then checked for other obvious leaks.
No leaks are shown nowhere else in the vehicle. So I added coolant to the car and let the cooling system do its magic as i left the heater on high. Let car idle with cap off and heater on for about 45 minutes. No signs of overheating. So I take the car for a spin and that's when the car starts heating up. I look under the hood and feel hoses and notice all are pressurized but top hose that leads to coolant flange is hot and the bottom hose connected to thermostat is cold.
I checked the return hose that leads up to the coolant reservoir to see if it's cycling and it appears it was. At low rpms the return hose had a steady flow and at high rpms it was flowing much rapidly. Which made me think it wasn't the water pump also this car with that many miles wouldn't have lasted with the plastic impellar this long if it wasn't already swapped out by previous owners. My question is what would cause it to still overheat? I forgot to note the fans did not turn on when the temperature was rising unless i turned the a/c on. But i still did a drive test with a/c on and it still overheated. I also did multiple burp cycles. I have invested alot of money in custom work and suck to leave it parked on the drive way.
I have a 2006 Jetta with a 5 speed manual transmission and 35,000 miles. The engine randomly misfires causing it to stutter or stammer. The check engine light is on and has been for several weeks. Occasionally the check engine light flashes. I took it to a local mechanic who ran a series of diagnostic tests (no vacuum leaks) and they recommended having all the ignition coils replaced for all 4 cylinders. They also replaced the fuel filter. I did so but the problem soon returned to which they referred me to the dealer.
I decided to take it to a VW specialist in town and they replaced the spark plugs for all 4 cylinders. They noticed that some of the plugs were black with a buildup and some were clean. The problem soon returned. The VW specialist also recommended that I take it to the dealership as they too had no clear idea as to what the problem is.
The car did suffer rodent damage in 2007 but was still under warranty so all the wiring that had been chewed on was replaced. I experimented using premium gas and regular gas. Premium gas seems to make the problem worse. Also, the misfires seem to lessen as the weather gets warmer. I would like to fix the problem to avoid any catastrophic failure but am trying to avoid throwing money away on any more guess work.
Took the beast out for a good road trip to try out the new tires. She is running good now, but has picked up a weird miss which cause the truck to shudder. It does feel and sound just like a miss, I know that it is a diesel but that is only way to describe it.
When driving along with the cruise set at 75, when I hit a hill, the truck will gradually accelerate, and it will miss a beat. Just like you turned it off and right back on very fast. Usually once, twice if the hill is long. If I accelerate harder it will not do it. Most often does it while gradually moving accelerator.
Has new fuel filter ad cam sensor.. Runs great the rest of the time.
Enjoying some nice below zero weather in Chicagoland. Getting a bit of a squeel for the first couple of miles from my 2012. I think it may be a belt.
View 3 RepliesI've been dealing with this for over a year. 97 s-10 (4.3, 4wd, 5spd) always wants to keep revving. When I put it in neutral and coast, the rpms rise. When in gear, it powers itself down the road even when I'm off the gas. The part that really gets me, is that it will keep revving in neutral until the vehicle comes to a COMPLETE STOP. Then, it drops to a nice idle within 2-3 seconds. I don't understand what the momentum of the vehicle has to with the revving of the engine when its in neutral.? I replaced the IAC valve (and set the pintle) and tried to clean up everything I could. It seemed to be better for only a little while. Faulty new part? Is the IAC getting "gummed up" quickly because of something else?
View 3 Replies2002 1.8t Jetta Wagon with the automatic transmission. They've had it for about a week now and we've been trying to iron a few problems out. Mostly cosmetic until the last couple days.
The coil pack harness is trash. I bypassed a couple of the extreme cracked wires in attempt to keep it going until the new one comes in hopefully at the end of this week. We put new plugs in but only afterward did we find out that NGK or VW is the way to go. We put autolite iridiums in.
New fuel filter, however, the line connecting the tank to the filter will not click into place completely. We are able to start/drive the car without the line popping off from the pressure, but you just have to tug on it with your hand to get it off, no need to depress the clip.
The car seems to run better cold. Once it is warmed up and you've been driving around town for 10-15 minutes is when the shuddering starts. It ONLY dies when in Drive or Reverse while at a complete stop. The idle drops down to 400 rpm or so, you can't rev the motor/drive. Sometimes it will come back up to normal and you can go, sometimes it will go back and forth but you can't get any power to the wheels. Sometimes it will drop the RPMs and shudder at 400 for a couple seconds then just die. It always starts right up without hesitation. In park/neutral the idle is still slightly erratic, occasionally bumping up to around 1300 rpms for a second or two then back to around 900 or so.
When we bought the car, we test drove it and it was fine. Of course that is how it works out. They drove the car for about a week. In that time, it shuddered and died once, and would occasionally shudder at a stop light but there was no issue driving it or loss of power when accelerating.
What I'm wondering is if we should go ahead and order the R8 coil pack and spark plug kit from HSTuning. I'm hoping that the harness fixes the issue, but if it could be cheap spark plugs or a coil pack going out, I'd like to get it all done at once. My main concern is the possibility that it could be the transmission. The symptoms feel like loss of power, not slipping, but still, I'm worried that maybe it could be the issue.
2002 Jetta 2.0L...
The Haynes Manual tells you to lift the car up and un-mount the engine mount on the drivers side of the transaxil to get access to the VSS underneath the vehicle, but you can do it from the top of the engine!
1. Take out your Air filter box for easier access
2. My VSS was covered by a metallic heat pouch with snaps. (not mentioned in Haynes Manual)
3. I got Needle nose pliers to wedge in the small area to unscrew the bottom half of the VSS. It is a small area to get your hand in, but with the needle pliers was actually pretty easy.
4. Then get something small enough to release the clip for the top plug. I used my screwdriver.
5. Screw in your new VSS and plug the top cable back, then put your air filter back in place.
If you look at the pictures I took, you can see the VSS and the silver pouch I mentioned. I had a lot of trouble finding the location of the VSS with no real good pictures or explanations online. Note these pictures were taken from the drivers side, which the empty space is where the air filter was and on the right you can see the battery.
Just noticed this morning that when I move slowly there is a noise consistent with the cars movement in the rear right side of the car. What could be causing this back there? Almost sound like if the car was moving while the brake was engaged.
View 1 RepliesNot sure who wants to ruin my night, but here's what popped up for codes:
Also, the engine sounds like a sewing machine when revving up to about 1,800 RPMs, then the engine sounds fine. Lastly, the far camshaft makes a knocking at idle after engine warms up.
If this indeed needs a timing replacement, I've done everything on the car myself, but this would be a stretch.
Might be a long shot here, but I JUST had this noise/rattle pop up in my '12 GTI 6MT w/ 13k miles.
Turns out I found someone who posted a video with basically the same noise:
Another one:
I hear the same noise while stopped and revving the engine as well as when driving if I let off the throttle and let the RPM's sweep down past the same rev range (1,800-2,000). Sounds like it's coming from the passenger side area.
I'm under warranty so I'm going to take it to the dealership...but I know how they can be with rattles.
With my car sitting, out of gear or clutch in, I rev the engine to say 4 thou. As the engine decelerates I get a perceptible vibration or shudder. It feels like an out of balance. In gear, accelerating, no problem. In gear, decelerating, no problem. And it doesn't happen all the time. It does, or doesn't do it hot or cold.
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