The following occurs: When car is in PARK there is no strange vibration even with AC on.
When DRIVE is engaged, vibration begins, even worse with AC on. Once the car accelerates vibration is gone.
I went to the authorized dealer service shop and they told me that this symptom is typical of these cars, they even sat me in some other cars to prove that these vibrations are normal.....
While braking, the car is revving up to about 1500 rpm and causing the vehicle to shudder and buck as if it wants to take off with no throttle input. The car is an automatic and this is the information relayed to me via my sister.
The car is a 2002 Jetta 2.0 automatic wagon.
Just got my 2015 manual Golf GTI last Monday. The car has been great (except for the dealer leaving in the shipping pucks in the struts) and a lot of fun to drive. Over the past week I've noticed that when stopped and idling the engine vibrates every so often. Just like a light flutter. You can feel it in the pedal and kind of on the floor. This happens with the clutch engaged or not. Stopped at a light etc. Just wondering what would be the cause. I thought maybe bad gas that the dealer filled it up with. I just filled up with new gas a couple hrs ago. Maybe coil packs? When driving I have full power and it feels completely normal. Just that slight flutter every few seconds at idle.
View 17 RepliesI have a question about my Golf MK4 1998 - 1.6
I was out driving to work today, and when i cam to a roundabout, the engine stopped. The battery light was lighting as if the ignition only was on, and the steering wheel was extremely hard to use. The gal pedal didn't even work either. After a few(2-3-4) seconds, the car automatic started again, and i could gas and steer normally.
What could this be due to? I know i have some problems with the starter on the car(when i start it sometimes it gives me this loud elephant noise), but it should not have anything to do with it..
So Ive been having really annoying electrical issues with my Jetta. Everything works fine when driving, but sometimes when I turn it off after driving for about 20 min, the car electronics will not turn off and the engine will continue to run for about 7 seconds with the key out of the ignition and then sputter to a stop. The electronics do not turn off after the engine has stopped. I ripped apart the interior to look at relays and the ignition switch. They all look fine and they look like they are grounding fine. Do you think it might just be a bad ignition switch?
View 2 RepliesTwo control arms and a passenger side cv axle I get a bad engine vibration @3800 rpm. Feels like solid motor mounts. It goes away @4500 rpm.
The old cv axle was making noise from the inner joint and the control arm bushings were broken apart.
The engine vibration was not there with the old parts.
I have a 2002 VW Golf, with 203,000 miles on it. The check engine light is already on because the cat has worn out. I'm saving to buy a new one. However this morning about 5 minutes into my trip to work my check engine light flashed a few times. After pulling over and turning around to go back home the flashing stopped and the check engine light went back to be solid. Could the worn out cat have caused that? The car seems to run like normal. I did feel a little something when the light started blinking, but then it went away. The dealership and my regular VW mechanic have both said that the car is safe to drive regarding the catalytic converter until this winter when I get my tax return back. I have very little money right now for a repair. I should have more in a couple of months. The only thing that has caused the check engine light to blink in the past was the ignition coil pack. The car is on its third one and I know that feeling, this wasn't it. Plus I just got a new coil pack in June 2014.
View 16 RepliesWhen I'm idling and I rev the engine to exactly 1200 rpm i can feel an extra vibration coming from the engine. If i hold it at this rpm it will continue on. now this is not a violent vibration but more so of a buzz i can feel that travels to my steering wheel as well. what could it be ?
Another question is when i travel up my driveway and i hit the sloped curb at a angle i can hear a specific "clunk" sound coming from around the drivers foot well area what could this be? perhaps my axle going bad? I also heard it when I was reversing out of my parking space while turning.
I am new to this car and trying to make sure I'm doing everything i can to put it into good shape.
I lamented in the past a lot of vibrations when the engine was at 3500RPM (in any gear). I read on the forums and many people blamed the aftermarket "EMPI" axles that I mounted too. In fact, my OEM outer CV joints where seized inside the hub/spindle and one of the inner CV joints was clicking; the boots were all worn. This was the reason I went with aftermarket axles. Anyway, I rebuilt the OEM axles by keeping the shaft only, and getting good quality inner and outer CV joints. I finished today to swap back the OEM axles and, finally, no more vibrations!
View 10 RepliesI have a 2000 Jetta with the 2.0 automatic and just like the title states, I have recently developed a engine vibration that is felt at all times. It is much worse when the car is in gear. I only seem to feel it in the gas and brake pedals. It does not seem to depend on speed nor does it only occur at certain rpms. It feels like someone zip tied a vibrating back messager to my pedals. I want to find out what it is because on long commutes my foot begins to feel like its falling asleep. I can visually see the engine vibrating with the car in gear. I am leaning towards motor mounts.
View 1 RepliesI am hearing a vibrating sound only between 2000 - 2500 rpm while accelerating from inside/under engine bay. No impact on ride quality and no engine harshness is felt. Only it sounds like some metal sheet is vibrating for a while. After crossing 2500 rpm it simply disappears.
Checked inside the engine compartment by revving the engine while stationery and I don't get that sound. What could it be? Some shield of the exhaust? cat?
I just posted how happy I have been with my 2004 GTI 1.8t, then something strange happened. I was coming up to a light at night, turned on my turn signal and hit the brakes. The engine stopped abruptly and then began running fine without a restart. It was only for a split second. The lights went out, car died and began to run again very quickly. I noticed later that the clock had changed to the wrong time. I have noticed that lately at night the headlights dim slightly when I brake. That's the only clue. New battery, Alternator checks out fine.
View 5 RepliesSo last Thursday I started my car up in the blistering cold and it ran fine for about a minute and started to misfire so I shut it off. It hasn't ran since. When that happened the check engine light was blinking because of the misfire. I didn't have a code reader at the time to read it. now that I got a code reader the damn thing isn't throwing any codes. it spits and sputters sometimes. I've had no previous problems with the car. Thinking It might be a weak fuel pump or bad coils and in not sure how to test them.
View 1 RepliesSo I replaced the engine and trans engine mounts on my 2004 R32 today. After I got done and drove it there was some serious vibration and gear whine. It also seemed like I wasn't able to transfer all the power to the wheels, it was definitely slower to accelerate. Did something go out of alignment?
View 10 RepliesMy engine revs up no matter if the thing is hot or cold when I come to a stop at a red light, SOMETIMES. Other times it will idle at 100 and then wants to idle around 1000 and has idled as high as 1200. I've been told EGR, TPS, Idle Control Motor, or Intake gaskets. I did have a code 22 which occurred after a friend unplugged the TPS and reconnected it, but no other codes or check engine lights. Tuned engine 2 weeks ago, but problem still persists. Where do I start and what equipment do I need. I am a professional diesel tech, but not so much with gas.
View 3 RepliesI'll try to keep it simple. MkV r32. 79k
When sitting in a parked position, engine running, and I jog the wheel back and fourth I'm hearing an awful clunking noise from what sounds to me to be the steering rack.
-The noise can not be replicated unless the vehicle is stopped with the front suspension loaded.
-While moving, be it 5 mph or 55 mph the noise can not be replicated.
-Tyrolsport deadest kit installed upfront, no apparent play in the u joint that connects the steering shaft to the rack.
There doesn't seem to be a whole lot of information about issues with mkv steering racks making noise like I'm describing. Most information pertains to subframe shifting which can't be the case.
Service Engine light came on couple days later turned off, came back on today & vehicle stopped shifting into 3rd. Later this evening was driving it and power steering went out, ABS light came on, temp gauge jumping from hot then cold. When Service Engine light came on originally took to autozone. these are the codes given:
P0700
P1776
P0420
I have read problem could be input or output sensor which are $17 bucks each. Going to try those...
Mileage is 145,000
2002 Jetta 2.0L...
The Haynes Manual tells you to lift the car up and un-mount the engine mount on the drivers side of the transaxil to get access to the VSS underneath the vehicle, but you can do it from the top of the engine!
1. Take out your Air filter box for easier access
2. My VSS was covered by a metallic heat pouch with snaps. (not mentioned in Haynes Manual)
3. I got Needle nose pliers to wedge in the small area to unscrew the bottom half of the VSS. It is a small area to get your hand in, but with the needle pliers was actually pretty easy.
4. Then get something small enough to release the clip for the top plug. I used my screwdriver.
5. Screw in your new VSS and plug the top cable back, then put your air filter back in place.
If you look at the pictures I took, you can see the VSS and the silver pouch I mentioned. I had a lot of trouble finding the location of the VSS with no real good pictures or explanations online. Note these pictures were taken from the drivers side, which the empty space is where the air filter was and on the right you can see the battery.
Just noticed this morning that when I move slowly there is a noise consistent with the cars movement in the rear right side of the car. What could be causing this back there? Almost sound like if the car was moving while the brake was engaged.
View 1 RepliesIs it normal on the 2.0T that when you are driving and stop at a red light to get vibration that you can feel in the car and hear in the motor? As soon as you let off the break it stops and the engine stops the noise. I don't drive the car enough really (my wifes) to know if it is normal or if this just started. It is an 07 and just turned 12k on the weekend trip. Also, having a problem on Sat radio with there being a high pitch hum in the back ground? [IMG] [URL] ...
View 13 RepliesI am having with our 2010 Santa Fe GLS (2.4L). Whenever I am stopped and in gear, I have an excessive about of engine vibration IMHO, my wife thinks not, but it just doesn't feel right to me. I can feel it in the seat and people sitting in the passenger side and in the back can also feel it. If I bump into neutral or am accelerating, the vibration goes away. I have no issues with hesitation or loss of power and no other issues/check engine light, etc. This has been happening since we purchased the vehicle, and I mentioned it to the dealer and was given the response that the engine needed sufficient time to be broken in...... I now have 15,000 miles and it still is an issue.
View 3 Replies