Saab - 9-5 :: 1999 - Key Won't Turn In Lock
Oct 6, 2012
I have a 1999 Saab 9-5. For the past 4 years I have only used the key to lock/unlock the doors. (I never liked using the fob.)
Lately, once a week I am unable to turn the key in the lock. It does not budge. Sprayed some lubricant, but no effect. It stays stuck -either locked or unlocked a few days, and then goes back to normal.
When it sticks locked, I've unlocked the hatch and crawled inside. I can unlock the doors then from the center console, but once I exit the car, I can't get the key to turn to lock it again.
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My 2001 Saab 9-5 wagon has ignition problems. The key will not turn the ignition. It fits in but will not turn. It's a manual, so I can't get out of reverse. It will not move and I'm a long way from a Saab dealer. The key will activate the locks, etc., and the radio will come on.
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Ok...starter replaced and battery..car won't turn over...sometimes...power there and a click but nothing...then nothing then nothing again and then starts...starts sometimes ok...doesn't matter what temperature it is...
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I've looked around here and in my manual but can't find the procedure to turn off the "beeps" when I lock and unlock my car via the key.
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I have a 2004 Saab 9-3. Currently the Battery Warning Light has come on. It came on while the car was being driven. The car's performance seemed to suffer and it was hard to turn the steering wheel. We were about two miles away from home and we somehow managed to get home but we simply couldn't get the car to turn on to our driveway because of loss of power for steering.
We checked the Saab manual and it reads : Warning Charging - This light comes on together with 'triangle/exclamation' light if the battery is not charging. If it comes on while you are driving, stop the car as soon as possible and switch off the engine.Check the alternator drive belt. If the belt has broken, the engine may overheat (cooling system will not function properly), the battery will not be charged, the A/C compressor will not run and power assistance for steering will be lost.
Our observation:- We experienced the a/c not working too well- We had problem with steering - It was almost as if the steering wheel was locked. It was extremely hard to turn. Is this an alternator belt or a battery issue? If so, how do we figure out?
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My son has a 2003 Super Duty with auto locks, but the front wheels won't lock even when turn to locked position. Also when it's in two wheel drive the front drive shaft and axles still spin, are the hubs locked up or is it in the transfer case?
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I have a 1999 Saab 9-5 that eats tires.I bought it in 2007 with 20,000 miles. It now has 110,000 miles. My first set of tires, Toyos, got only 35.000 miles before they were worn out. The tire guy told me to expect around 60,000 when I bought them. Replaced them with GY Eagles which showed significant wear with only 20,000 on them. Tires rotated/bal every 6000 miles or so. The alignment was checked as was suspension, joints, fittings, etc. All checked out fine. Both sets of tires show even wear over all four tires each time. The local mechanic, the tire guy and the regional Saab guru all said, "some cars eat tires, yours is one of them".?
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My 1999 Saab 93 started making a clicking sound that speeds up and slows down as the car speeds up and slows down BUT goes away when I give it gas. The sound is still there when the clutch is depressed and seems to be coming from the front right of the car. I can feel the clicking in the clutch and the stick shift.
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1999 Saab 9-3 2.0/turbo, manual, 159K miles. Barely replaced turbo (with new turbo) at 154K miles. Had sluggish power after new turbo installment. I had informed saab mechanic that the car felt sluggish upon receipt, to which he replied I could pay extra for a "performance" tune up. But, now months later the loss of power problem has worsened. Since I paid dearly for a complete new turbo installation I'd expect the same level performance as prior to the old turbo going out.
To be clear: no turbo power upon acceleration, slight whirring noise heard when stepping on gas, turbo pressure gauge stays near end of white zone, barely top of white, but needle doesn't leave white into yellow zone as it's suppose to when full gas is given or when revving up rpms to 4800 while switching gears.... absolutely no power, nothing. I'm relying on down-gearing for some engine power when going uphill - tis' that bad. Also, no black smoke or indicator lights. In researching people mention both vacuum hoses or waste gate come up as possible culprits to turbo-related power loss.
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1999 saab 9 3 loss of power going up hill and when accelerating, have had the catalytic converter replaced, the turbo thingy checked and blown out, the muffler checked and found no problem, It has been put on the machine at 2 different dealers and no problem found...
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I have a 1999 F250 super duty with the V10 engine. I purchased it when it was @111k miles. When I got it the passenger side lock did not always work and after time they both stopped. I have ready the post on how to repair them for little or no money that is not my question. My question Is there a way that I can tell if the truck had a remote for the locks when it was new and if not could I put it in the truck? Yes my wife likes that I unlock her door first but a remote would be nice when it is raining.
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I have a 1999 saab convertible with only 60,000 miles on it. Great car but recently starting leaking. water coming in across the front seat, dripping straight down on to seat and my head. Also wet in back seat. Cleaned out the well that runs around top. No apparent tears.
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Drove the R32 last night for the first time in about a week with no problems, so I figured I would drive it to work today since the roads are still clear.
Got to work, car shuts off like normal. No problems. Drove over to our other facility, turn off the ignition, and the radio stays on when I take the key out. Open the door, radio still stays on and I get the door ajar chime. Close door, start car again, drive around the parking lot, turn car off, same thing. Also, the key fob now has no function at all. I can't lock or unlock the car.
Should I just call a dealer/mechanic? This wouldn't be a huge issue if the car was at home, but it's currently sitting outside, unlocked, in downtown Detroit, and I really don't want the battery to die.
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Just bought a former municipal 01 Prius. The key works the ignition, but I cannot get the key to turn back all the way to "lock." Turns to all other positions fine. I did get it to suddenly work a few times, but then same thing. Tried moving the shift lever without any difference.
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The key to the trunk lock on my 1988 Celica won't turn. I don't have the original key. Could be that I have the valet key. All other locks (ignition, door and dash door work. I will probably get a replacement from the junkyard if I can find a car with a lock and key. Other trunk locks are interchangeable with the celica???
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I just bought a used 2003 camry, it has I assume a stock alarm system (stock Toyota alarm fob), the alarm is set to auto lock after about 20 seconds after the door is shut (previous owner lived in NYC). How do I turn off the auto lock? I want the system to lock when I press the lock button on the fob (live in a very rural area and often leave the keys in the car).
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just got a 2010 Prius (Australian base model), and looking for information on how to turn off the beeps when locking/unlocking the doors. I've found info on turning off the seat-belt warning beep, and changing the reversing beep to single by using the OBDII connector, but nothing on the CAN bus codes needed for the lock/unlock beeps.
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Got a call from my wife this morning. Her car won't start. She says the when she turns the key, the doors lock and the alarm goes on. She says the "EPC" light stays on in the cluster, but that's just all the lights turning on right? I remember this happening in my 97 Golf. A recharge of the battery is all I should need right?
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So a bit of background, I'm not the original owner, it has about 190,000 miles on it, and is almost definitely due for an oil change. Anyways, I was driving home, the car was running fine, I got into the left turn lane and had to come to a complete stop in the intersection. As I was about to turn, I felt the steering lock up, and there was no throttle response, I was in a bit of a panic so I didn't see if the engine shut off but several warning lights went on including the check engine light. I turned the key into the off position then restarted the car and it worked fine for the small remainder of the drive. What caused this or how I could prevent it from happening again?
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so whenever i unlock my car with the remote on the key, i can open the door. while the door is still open it will lock back, turning the alarm on as well. would that have anything to do with the key? or some other problem?
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My 2013 R has 1770 miles and I just noticed a strange new sound when I turn at really low speed (parking speed) on steering full-lock. The sound is hard to describe, but it starts as low frequency hiss (such as someone exhaling) and then slight rattles from suspension. Power steering? I owned a 2012 Golf GTI for 8 months, and never heard before, so this is new...
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