We just replaced the starter on a 2004 Hyundai Santa fe 3.5. The car now starts, but won't idle. I can keep my foot on the gas and keep it running, but as soon as I let my foot off the gas it dies. We didn't have this problem before replacing the starter. Where to start looking?
View 3 RepliesA few days ago, I started my wife's Santa Fe (106k miles) to warm it up and it had a rough idle. I gave it a test drive and the engine light came on and off a few times as it sputtered down the road. I retrieved the codes with my scan tool and it showed - P0300, P0304 and P0306. After some researching, I decided to change the coils, plugs and wires (under upper manifold) this coming weekend.
I have seen the web page instructions for doing this on a 2.7L [URL] .... but it has less stuff around the manifold compared to our Santa Fe. These instructions doesn't include coils was well since the plugs in front use just wires.
My question is.. Is there a set of instructions for the 3.5L for removing the manifold?.. From a less intense standpoint, maybe some of the hoses and cables can stay intact just to move the upper manifold or lift it to the side?... Also, Cyl 2, 4, 6 are the three sparks plugs in the front? 2004 Santa Fe 3.5l ....
2004 2.4l engine has high idle speed aprrox. 1000rpm.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2004 2.7L V6 GLS Hyundai Santa Fe AWD that I purchased about a year ago. The car has about 114,000 miles on it I believe. My problem is that I have an annoying vibration at idle and at highway speeds of 60-65 mph. The vibration decreases somewhat towards 70 mph. The vibration at idle is usually present, but sometimes vanishes for no apparent reason. The car is very smooth below 55 mph, but when around 60-65 mph becomes quite violent at times. The side view mirrors shake very badly and the vibration can become tiresome.
Originally the shop believed that the front axles were the culprit and replaced them – this mitigated some vibration felt through the steering wheel, but not much of the vibration throughout the cabin. The wheels have been balanced 3 times, alignment checked, and wheels do not seem to be bent/dented. (The tires were road force balanced)
In addition I have also had the following work done:
-2 oxygen sensors replaced (both post-catalytic converter)
- 2 Catalytic converters (replaced to pass emissions)
-Timing Belt Replaced
-Serpentine Belt Replaced
-Idler Pulley and Auto-Tensioner Replaced
-Ignition Coils Replaced
-Spark Plugs Replaced
-Transmission Fluid Change
-Oil Changes
-1 Tire Replaced (Sidewall Blew Out) (Michelin LTX M/S2 Tire)
-Air Filter Changed
-Crankshaft Position Sensor Replaced (It was Corroded Away)
Why the car is vibrating so that the mechanics can check it out. One idea I have could be the engine mounts – this would explain the vibration at idle (in park). I drive about 10 hours a week on the highway at the speeds that cause this vibration.
I recently bought a 2004 Hyundai santa fe 2.4l with 94k miles. when sitting at a idle it has a slight vibration in the cabin, feels like a slightly rough idle, when you drive the vibration is gone. I also had it throw misfire codes for cyl 2 and 4. I put in new plugs and changed the wires, coils are on the way. When the car is in drive and I put the parking brake on and walk up to the motor it sounds like it has a exhaust manifold leak, but I only hear it when in drive. I guess my question is, could this exhaust leak be causing the rough idle or will this be fixed once the new coils are on?
View 18 RepliesMy mother has a '04 Santa Fe 3.5. Her automobile makes a rattling/grinding sound when around 1000rpms/idle. However, the sound disappears when accelerating and drives like a charm. The sound returns once again around 1000rmps at idle or stop. I have changed the oil pan, replaced oil and filter and even put in a new battery. I'm not an aficionado when it comes to Hyundais (Subaru driver here).Car also has 180k miles.
View 6 RepliesI will occasionally get a misfire after a rain storm, lasts about ten minutes then goes away. there is also a slight miss (no CEL) at idle, that occurs all the time. I'm thinking spark plug wires.... the plugs were done last year, but nothing else. to my knowledge the wires and coil packs are all original. i'm at about 114K on a 2004 santa fe 3.5l.
Also, does the computer store misfire codes? I know I got them in the past and i checked it at the time, but didn't write down what cylinder it was. think it'll still be in memory?
Think it's ok to change just the wires and not the coil packs? kind of on a budget...
I have a 2004 SF/2.4 I4. When the car warms up, the ignition coil sparks between the rubber boot and the coil itself, drawing the spark from the plug and resulting in a misfire. This is especially apparent when the A/C is running and the car is idle-ing, resulting in the A/C turning off and a rough jumping idle. Once the car is running this is not noticeable and the A/C turns on.
I have changed the spark plugs to new autolite plugs, and the situation disappeared for a day, but now it is back. I ordered OEM NGK Laser Iridium plugs, I hope they will fix the situation. Why would the A/C matter? Next on the list will be the ignition coil and wire change, but I hope to avoid that.
I had a strange problem tonight, my car wouldn't start in park as it normally does, but did start in neutral? I certainly don't want it NOT to start! is there some sort of sensor that tells the car its in park and therefore allows it to start, which may have slipped/become faulty telling the car its safe to start, even though its in neutral and not park?
View 4 RepliesThis all started out when I wanted to change my original plugs that had 200k miles on them. I have that part done now and new wires. Then it wouldn't start without me starting it while holding the gas pedal down. Then I would have to press the pedal down or it would die.
I may need to clean the throttle body. I bought some Valvoline Throttle Body Cleaner and cleaned the throttle body it was black inside and now it's nice and clean. After that the car starts up fine except on the first try. It starts up and idles at around 2,000 rpms. When I press the brake it drops to 1,000, then back up to 2,000. The strangest part is I have no acceleration power now. I can press the pedal to the floor and it will only go to 3,000 rpms. It will slowly get faster as I drive but there's no immediate response when I press the pedal down.
Why would cleaning the throttle body do this? It throws a code when I first start it and it dies the P1110 code but I think that is because the rpms are at 600 when it catches it. No misfire codes or anything, so I think the plugs and wires are working. Just the faster than normal idle now and no power when I press the pedal down.
Would the throttle body cleaner hurt the throttle position sensor?
My car has the same issue, its a 2001 santa 2.4 . Its starts and then shut off after 3 seconds. camshaft was replaced twice already. still same issue, die after 3 seconds. everything seems to be fine.
What about fuel pressure at the rails? If the pump runs for a moment when the key is turned to the on position then when cranking it stops. That would let the engine start and run for about three seconds. Could it be the ignition switch?
My beloved Hyundai Santa Fe,2006 model's engine light came up. The engine starts and than about 10 seconds after cuts out straight away. What to do. I have always taken care of this car and being serviced well.
View 23 RepliesI have an issue of fuel pressure I believe on my 2003 3.5 Santa fe...It would start then stall...I'm at my wits end with this thing...I checked the relay and its good...checked all fuses and they are good...I don't hear the 2-3 second whine of the pump when I turn the ignition to the on position, so I suspected a bad pump...but before I bought a new pump I took out the back seat, removed the access cover and checked the connector to see if the pump is getting power...its not...I'm at a loss as to where to look next...
View 35 RepliesMy 3003 Santa Fe AWD has an issue with the blower fan. It stops, then starts working and clicking can be heard behind the dash when this happens. The clicking seems to increase when the climatization switch (the one that switches the air to the front vents, foot wells, windshield, etc) is turned off. When it clicks while the switch is on the off position, the blower blows for a split second every time the click is audible. It kind of turns itself on/off. Before I start replacing parts, I suspect the fan relay to be the culprit, but I'm not sure.
View 2 RepliesMy Santa Fe driving me crazy. Have a 2002 Santa Fe 4 cyl with a problem. It will start when cold and run normal about 2 minutes. Then it starts running erratically like a misfire. If you let it idle this way it will stall quickly and not restart until totally cold again the next day. If you catch it quick enough and continually pump the throttle it continues to run rough until it starts to warm up. As it warms up the engine slowly improves until it reaches operating temp. At this point the misfire is much less but still there. If you shut it off for more than 10 minutes it will not start until the next day. There are no codes at this time. I have changed the coolant temp. sensor, the cam position sensor, fuel pump and screen, spark plugs and wires. I have also verified all timing marks on the crank, cams, etc. The crank sensor was replaced about 40k ago when the timing belt was replaced. What can I look for now???
View 2 RepliesI am getting two codes, p0171 and p0401. Both point to something with the fuel are mixture I believe. My problem is that I can not figure out what the problem is. As far as I can tell there is not a vacuum leak. My MAF sensor looks clean and close to brand new. The codes come on and the car seems to want to jump. It does not stall, just starts to bounce a little until I let off the gas. And it does not do it until the car is warmed up. 2001 Santa Fe .....
View 4 RepliesThis weekend was a nice high 80's low 90's. My AC is usually ice cold. However now that the weather hit that high, when we are in stop-and-go traffic, the AC starts blowing warm humid air. I do see the temperature need creep a bit higher than the normal range.
Once we start driving, after a few minutes, the climbs back down and the cold AC returns. Turning the fan speed down, or turning the compressor off, then on again, seems to work.
What could be causing this? A friend said he has this issue with his car claiming the engine is the issue, not being powerful enough to keep the compressor running right, is that possible?
High mileage santa fe 190K+ miles. Will only start while cranking. Dies when key is in "on" position. Fuel pump runs/cycles normally when turned to "on" position. No obvious vacuum leaks. No intake obstructions. Vehicle will cont to run using starting fluid. Vehicle starts, idles and runs (somewhat poorly) with MAF unplugged. Fuses appear ok (although the fuse cover/fuse index is lost). Stranded at rural property with limited tools and average abilities.
View 3 RepliesI have a '06 santa fe 3.5L My "TCS OFF" light "ABS" light turn on and my "4WD" light starts to blink while I am driving. Also my Transmission shifts hard and the engine revs funny (hard to describe what it actually sounds and feels like) when the automatic transmission shifts from 2nd gear to 3rd gear. It shifts find from 3rd to 4th and down shifts from 3rd to 2nd just fine. Just have problems shifting from 2nd to 3rd and it only seem to happen when the lights I mentioned above turn on. What going on? Is this all being caused by a speed sensor? My ABS also seem a little touchy activating when road conditions are not that bad.
View 1 RepliesStarts fine. Runs fine till warmed up. Then dies at idle and runs rough on gear till 1000 rpm. Has only coded iac when unplugged. But would idle with it unplugged. I replaced it. Also got crank can code once while checking it ...
2001 dodge ram 1500 318 engine ....
My Jeep does not always start. All the dash lights come on, but when I turn the key to start the engine, they all go off. The lights stay off, and the engine will not start. The ignition won't even click... it's similar to a dead battery. When I turn the key back to its original position (when first inserting), all the gauges spike and the needles jump really high for a split second. When the door is open the gauges keep jumping (spiking). After waiting for 30 minutes, the engine will start fine like nothing was wrong (except the fluctuation in idle). It would rev high at idle sometimes, and sometimes it would idle low... so low in fact the jeep stalls. I have read about the symptoms of crank/camshaft sensors and relay, but I wanted to make sure from people that know more than I or have faced this particular problem.
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