After change sparks plugs, I can quickly see battery and brakes light goes on. I can feel a lost of power when the light goes on. I've check all vacum hose and cabling and all seem to be ok.
View 1 RepliesMy Santa Fe is a 2004 V6, with a replacement engine. I told I am in need of a new A/C compressor but haven't been able to get it done yet.
This evening I heard a squealing noise. It suddenly stopped, and then my brake and battery lights both went on.
I'm guessing my serpentine belt went out tonight. But I also wonder if the A/C compressor is contributing to the problem?
The battery light brake light and ac not cold all happened at the same time. The power steering & power brakes are working.
View 4 RepliesLast week while I was on vacation I had the battery light and brake light on the dash both come on at the same time. Just as these came on I was driving through some water on the road from a heavy storm that had happened earlier in the day. As I drove through, the lights came on at the same time and I lost power steering as well, after about 15 - 30 seconds both lights went off and everything was normal. It happened again later that day as well, same scenario, driving through some water, both lights came on, and no power steering. The lights once again went out after a short period, 15 seconds or so. What might be causing this? I was thinking maybe the alternator is going bad but I have not seen any other issues, lights dimming or things like that.
2004 Santa Fe 2.7L V6 with about 94000 miles.
2002 santa fe gls v6. I recently brought the car used and it appears to be in great shape with 135,000 miles, however the car has issues which I'm hoping are minor. Here are my questions:
The brake light and battery light stay illuminated, can this be a bad alternator? Speaking of alternator there is a rattling sound coming form the alternator area, do the bearings go bad? If it is the alternator, does it matter if I use a 95 or 110 amp? Is the alternator difficult to replace?
There is intermittent jerking when in drive. Is it possible that a malfunctioning alternator not delivering proper voltage can cause this type of issue possibly affecting the system computer? Could the jerking be due to something else like crank position sensor?
I just did a brake job on my 2002 2.7l and 10 minutes after driving both the e brake and battery indicator light came on not the abs. It is not throwing any dtc codes also. Did I do something wrong or is it a coincidence meaning my alternator is crapping out? I replaced all pads and front rotors and sucked out some dirty fluid and added clean fluid. It brakes properly and I do not believe I got air in the system.
View 4 RepliesSo We just got this car from a used dealer 10 days ago!!! Already has multiple issues even though it only has 115K miles on it!
1. Brake lights will not turn off! All 3 rear lights stay fully on even with no power unless I disconnect the battery or remove the fuse. Made sure all the doors are closed and the trunk is too. Only way to keep it from killing the battery has been to take the fuse out when I park, then putting it back in when I leave, but wife usually drives it so it needs to be fixed ASAP.
2. AC blew a fuse after 3 days!! They claimed to have replaced the compressor, but I cant understand how a fuse blows on the AC. Is this normal or just a fluke?
3a. There is an on off switch next to the drivers right leg along the center panel to the left of the radio. It's a simple on off switch, but I dont see it anywhere in the manual. Is this a switch to turn on the 4WD?? I can't figure out what it is for.
3b. only the 2 right side window switches also dont work. They work with the drivers main panel. I assume its the switches in the doors that are bad and I need to replace them? Hope that will not be too much drama to find and do.
4. It has a preinstalled video dvd system. It only turns on when the engine is on, or key is in on position, but when I restart the car it has to reboot and reload! Any way to rewire it or jump the fuse / relay so it's always on standby and getting power so it doesn't do this? Which fuse is for this unit??
The car is off yet the brake lights stay on.
View 6 RepliesFirst I noticed that the parking brake light and battery light came on, which would indicate an alternator problem. I took it in, they cleaned up the engine, replaced a few hoses and said the alternator was fine. Two days later I'm driving home, I make it to my driveway and the battery dies. I was able to charge it up and dive it back to the station where they told me the alternator had burned out...
A few days later I notice my brake lights weren't working, but that was just a blown fuse.
Starting today, there is a high pitched whine when I'm driving. I can barely hear it when I'm idle, but going up to 20 or 30 it gets very loud, then kind of dies off. It definitely gets louder when I'm accelerating, vs going a steady speed. As I was driving earlier, the air bag light came on for a brief second, and I didn't think anything of it, until later tonight when I was driving home and it came on again, but this time it stayed on.
Santa Fe GLS, 135,000 miles
For some reason my back brake lights on my 2006 santa fe are all goofy. The two in the rear window work fine. The turn signals work fine but the right and left brake lights don't work. I replaced the10 am fuses and the lamps. It did not work at all. I don't understand how the top lights would work but the right / left wont. I even tried the flashers and the brake lights are not on either. I don't see a fuse in the box in the engine compartment labeled for rear brakes, so I am at a loss.
View 9 RepliesSo I lent my santa fe to a buddy to do some hauling, I got it back yesterday and the turn signals and the brake lights don't work...notta. Regular running lights are working without issue, but no turn signals, no hazards, no brakes. Even the "tick, tick, tick" of the turn signal is gone, it's just dead.
View 1 Replies2004 2.4L 4cylinder manual transmission. I'm trying to resolve this issue I've been having. The main symptom I notice is when I accelerate, the power lags before I feel it going to the motor. Then the power kicks in at some point a few seconds later.
From the codes that have come up I've replaced a mass airflow sensor, 2 coil packs, knock sensor, and now a throttle position sensor. the repair manual I have shows the TPS having slotted mounting holes for adjustment but neither the original part or the new one I ordered had slotted mounting holes only circular holes.
I just changed my stabilizer link front right side and it did not solve the single clunk noise that I hear when accelerating and braking.. although it did solve the "multi clunk noises and creaking I get that is now gone away.. but this other single clunk noise what else could it be from it does it when driving straight and there are no clunks when turning. I must add that is that I can hear it and its a low pitched clunk... and is also felt in the steering wheel.
View 2 RepliesSo my 2001 SF GLS (220,000 km) has developed a quiet hiss on the RHS that's only present when I go above above about 2000 rpm while accelerating. Starts and stops instantly with the gas pedal. Maybe some crap in the fuel line? It doesn't seem to affect performance, but it could be a sign of something developing.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2003 santa fe with a 2.7 and it is 4wd.
It sounds loud during the morning and at idle almost like a diesel loud. It has a horrible timing climbing hills to the point where you can mash the peddle to the floor and almost redline the transmission from 4-5k rpm when redline starts at 6.
It has the CEL on and codes as a p044 and a p0112. I have a OEM oil filter in it and am running synthetic but it still has issues.
When accelerating fast it makes the valve clattering noise and once it catches up to speed like when it reaches the top of the hill it makes the clattering valve noise.
2005 3.5L 105K. I had the timing belt replaced at 70K. Ever since then I get a winning noise in the right front when turning left and accelerating. Does not happen turning right. I took it into another dealer and he said it could be in the power steering. But why turning left and not right? He didn't think it was the CV joint.
I changed the PS reservoir in case it was a clogged screen. That did not work. Now I am getting a rattle sound on the right with the car in D or R when the car is first started, moving slow or not moving. The sound goes away in N. I don't know if these sounds are related or not. What could be causing these sounds?
My engine doesn't run smoothly (like a misfire) when accelerating at hwy speeds, especially when the outside temp is above 20 degrees... the warmer the temps are, the worse it is.
I have a code P0431 - "warm up cat efficiency below threshold (Bank 2)"
Is it an O2 sensor problem, and if so, which one is it and what is the Hyundai p/n for the sensor? Bank 2 is in the front, correct?
When I bought the car a few weeks ago, there was a p0507 code for a high idle in park, about 1300 RPM, but sometimes shooting up to 3000 when I shifted into park and then dying down. The code goes on and off intermittently. Not that big of a deal at first. Then I started noticing that if I revved it in park it would take forever to die down to 1300, and sometimes would fluctuate around 2000. I also noticed hesitation while accelerating around 1500 RPM and the transmission hunting for gears while accelerating, as well. I noticed my throttle cable was very slack so I tightened that, and bought myself a throttle position sensor, thinking that might be the problem, but didn't install it yet.
I was driving on the freeway yesterday in cruise control and then I started losing power while my foot was on the gas. With my foot on the gas, the throttle would cut out every second. I was basically one second of throttle, one second of no throttle, all the way down the highway. Almost impossible to drive. This continued even after I turned cruise control off. I limped my way to Home Depot and installed my TPS in the parking lot, and drove most of the way home with no issues, although I still noticed a slight hesitation while accelerating. Alas, I tested cruise control again and then the throttle on/off problem started again, then I could barely drive the thing, even after cruise control was off again. I'll be returning the new TPS to Autozone today, since apparently that's not the problem. What's my next move?
2003 Santa Fe, about 142,500 miles, 2.4L, 5-Speed Manual. It appears that oil consumption is 1 quart per 2500 miles.
No leaks present that I can see, no smell, no visible "smoke" from exhaust. I change my oil every 3K, so this doesn't seem too bad for the age and mileage.
Other issue: Throttle seems "sticky", especially when accelerating from lower RPM (under about 1700). I notice this especially when accelerating out of a corner in 2nd gear: If I'm attempting to climb a hill, she'll begin to hesitate as if the throttle isn't responding properly. I'm thinking it's more me, as I've recently gone from driving a 2000 VW Passat V6 to this Santa Fe with less horsepower moving a heavier vehicle. If I keep the RPMs above 2000 or just give the throttle a good press, she'll (usually) not "buck" or hesitate. Is there something I can check for? I've never really experienced this on other 4-cylinders, but those I4's have always been small cars.
2005 3.5L FWD. 5 days ago I left the house, the engine was running smooth at idle but having hiccups when accelerating. Check engine light went on when accelerating but going off at idle. Turned around at the first stop light, parked the car home and pulled code P0302 misfire on #2 . Figured it's most likely the coil, was going to order one next day but to my surprise, no more check engine light next day and engine has been running smooth since then. Probably drove 100 miles since with no issues. I have 6 spark plugs waiting to be replaced but it's too cold to do it right now unless it's an emergency. Car has 105k miles now, spark plugs were changed at 63k. Was this just a fluke and P0302 will probably not come back or should I not risk it and just go ahead and replace the coil? If I end up replacing the coil, should I do one coil or all three?
View 22 RepliesMy car has three codes P0102 - MAF or VAF Low Circuit Input, P0030 & P0050 which are signaling O2 sensor issues.
Car symptoms are a hiccup type sputter when accelerating for the first few times after starting the vehicle. The RPMs will drop down under 1000rpm and it will come back without taking my foot off the gas. The power comes back faster if I flutter the pedal. The last few times it stalled while taking off.
After the car is warm, it runs better smoother. I'm also noticing slightly poor fuel economy. The exhaust smells rich to me.
I'm wondering if there is a fuse that could cause all three codes? Seems like a power problem? Where is the fuse for these sensors?
Should I replace MAF? Can I use the MAF from a 2004 2.4L engine that's at the junk yard? How to proceed.