Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: No Crank After Battery Replacement
Feb 2, 2014
I remove the battery of my Santa Fe 2005, cleaned cable, added grease, placed a brand new battery, reconnected the cables. But, when I tried to start nothing happens. The Radio, lamps, etc.. are working, so the car is powered, but no cranking, nothing.... I tried to reset ECU by disconnecting the battery cables for a while to empty the condensator. But it does not work. I also tried to connect the batteries NEG and POS poles together to reset the ECU but no success... I need my car to work....
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I replaced a dead battery in my '05 3.5 v6 Santa Fe. Other than the dead battery the car was running fine. After replacing battery, at idle, the RPMs drop below 500 and then go back up to over 1000 and then drops back down to 500-600. It has almost stalled a few times. At the low RPMs it diesels a little. When the RPMs spike the car surges and if I wasn't heavy on the brake, I'm sure I would have rear-ended the car in front of me. No check engine, no codes. Is this normal? I replaced the battery about 4 years ago and don't recall this behavior. If not normal, what is going on and where do I look? Its my wife's car and don't feel safe letting her drive it until this gets resolved.
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I have a 2004 Santa Fe v6 3.5 L engine. sometimes when I go to crank it I get nothing but clicks. We've tested the battery, starter and alternator and all 3 are fine. We replaced the solenoid but it still isn't working. My husband was able to get it started one time by beating on something (starter) under the car. This has been going on for about 3 weeks now. Now it's not starting at all.
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2002 Santa Fe 2.4L Automatic. Driving on the freeway when it lost power. Couldn't go over 65 even with the accelerator all the way down, even slower on uphill climbs. The engine wouldn't rev higher than around 3000rpms.
I figured it sounded like a loss of power due to weak fuel pump. I replaced it as well as the fuel filter, and verified it was pumping. Put the car together, and still the same loss of power. Drove home and parked it, but next morning it won't run at all. It cranks all day long but doesn't fire.
So far, I have made the following repairs and checks:
-Verified catalytic converter was clear and not plugged
-Verified fuel pressure
-Checked spark plugs - all are good and gaped properly
-Replaced crank position sensor (With the code, I thought this would solve it)
-Verified timing belt and cam belt in time - both have also been changed recently
-Checked all relays and fuses
-Battery and alternator are good - both are new
I still have a crank no start issue, and I'm going crazy taking things apart and putting them back together only to have this car not fire.
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I am having a crank and no start issue for a while now In Cold Temps -20 Celsius Or Colder... dealership checked fuses and relays they came back fine. there was an active CEL code for Low System Voltage would that have something to do with my problem here, and what else could be the problem? this has happened in the past after short 2 min drive and go in the store and come back out from being in the store for a few mins, eventually it does turn over but not without alot of cranking and curse words, until now I just found out after a longer 20 min trip it did it again, telling me its getting worse. 2006 Hyundai Santa Fe / 205,000 kms....
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This had occurred twice thus far in the past 6 months.
2004 Santa Fe 3.8L Automatic:
I had stopped the car at a store several months back, got back in the car after about an hour and I go to turn the key and the motor will not crank at all. Battery was fine, lights all worked, etc. After about ten minutes of fiddling with the shift it finally cranked and started without issue. Tonight I had stopped, topped off the tank (mistake I am sure) and tried to leave the gas station, again, no crank (and I forgot my cell phone at home!).
After about 15 minutes of fiddling with the shifter thinking a lock switch issue it again finally cranked over and started right up! Sounds like a couple of isolated incidents, however what may be the causes?
The first time I don't recall if I had gotten fuel or not. I did travel a ways afterward if I indeed had. This time I could not get it to crank right at the pumps.
Could this indeed be the purge valve issue I have heard about on these causing it not to even crank?
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I have 2005 Santa fe. I replaced the battery about 1000 km (about 600 miles) ago. Interior lights are bright. Now the car won't start, starter doesn't crank at all. At first I thought that it's an immobilizer problem, but not so sure now.
Could you tell me how Hyundai's immobilizer works. Some other cars starts but then turns off if immobilizer is on. Is it the same thing with Santa Fe?
I read from the manual that immobilizer-light should blink if immobilizer is on. I have not watched the dashboard lights so accurately before this. When I turn key to position "on", the immobilizer-light turns on (it doesn't blink). Is it supposed to do so and turn off when the car is running? Or is that a sign that immobilizer is on?
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We bought a 2006 Hyundai Sante Fe with the 3.5L and 4 wheel drive about two months ago, it has 94,000 miles on it. It was purchased from a dealership, and they had to work on it for a month before we took it from them because of some lights that were on, resulting in some sensors being replaced. We had it about a month when we took it to the grocery store, when we came back out I started it and it made a terrible noise, but was running, I immediately turned it off. Upon further inspection, the main serpentine belt had snapped, causing some damage to the secondary belt. We towed it home and I began to fix the belts.
When I pulled off the passenger side wheel and access cover, I noticed the remains of the belt were stuck behind the harmonic balancer, I tugged on it with about 5 pounds of force, and the entire pulley fell off of the harmonic balancer. I'm not sure if the belt stacked up behind and pushed it off, or if it just went bad, but the rubber between the portion that connects to the crank and the pulley was ripped, and missing in some spots. I replaced the harmonic balancer, and both belts, good to go, everything is running fine.
About a week later, the TCS etc. lights came on, but no check engine. I researched it a bit and came up with three possibilities:
1. Fuse
2. Tone wheel cracked/broken
3. Crankshaft position sensor
I checked the fuses and nothing was burnt, I never lifted the truck up to check the tone wheels.
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I've a 2.0L Santa Fe CRDI 4WD, 2003. My Crank position sensor has blown. My question is, does the timing belt have to be replaced with the sensor, or can the sensor be replaced alone? I know the belt must be replaced with petrol models but I've been told it may not be necessary with diesels.
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well I saw one other thread on this topic but no resolution. I replaced the hybrid battery like the codes told me too on my 2003 prius and it now drives great but as soon as it start it shows a problem and the red triangle stays on. No check engine light, no codes, no driving issues just a red triangle. How to diagnose a red triangle when there are no codes.
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How to remove center panel in order to replace faulty blower switch?
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2001 Celica, battery dead after seeming to crank more slowly each time it was started during the day (wife was driving). I disconnected the battery to charge/test it, after reconnecting it started immediately but after 1-2 seconds engine dies. RPMs can be coaxed up to 3,000 in that time, but even though it seems to be running fine it shuts completely off, no coughing or sputtering. Won't start at all unless key is turned off and then back on, then it will do the same as described above.
It's giving a P1300 Igniter Circuit Malfunction No. 1 error code. Possible causes listed are:
- Ignition Coil No. 1 harness is open or shorted
- Ignition Coil No. 1 circuit poor electrical connection
- Faulty Ignition Coil No. 1
- Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM)
Seems to me a lot like the last, the ECM.
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How difficult is it to replace the valve cover gasket on a 2001 Santa Fe with a 2.7? Can I just do the 'front' valve cover? Are there any tutorials with plenty of pictures while doing this?
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Replacing the crank shaft and camshaft oil seals on a 2001 - 2006 2.4L engine?
I'm in the process of installing a timing belt kit w/water pump, pulleys and all seals. My engine has 190,000 Km with no signs of oil in the timing area, but I figure the oil seal would be worn and or cracked/dried so it would make sense to change them, plus it was included in the kit.
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How hard is it to change the A/C/Heater blower motor. I know about the switch problems but this is the blower motor. I'll probably clean it out and spray something in it before I replace it but I just wondered how hard it is to get to. On another note, this 4 wheel drive Santa Fe rocks in the snow! I can't believe what good traction it has!
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After heavy rain yesterday my 2005 2.7 Santa fe wouldn't start today. Had it towed to nearby dealer. The crankshaft position sensor needs to be replaced. He claims its melted to the block and oil pan needs to be dropped to remove it.
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I have a 2001 4 cylinder Santa Fe. And atm I'm trying to replace the balance shaft oil seal but am having major problems getting it out.
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I have a '05 santa fe, auto, 2.7L, 4WD...sometimes I have to jiggle the shifter to get the engine to crank...would this be the neutral safety switch? or is there something in the shifter housing that could be causing this?
Maybe a minor adjustment... Just a slight movement of the shifter and it fires right up... If it is the neutral safety switch..where is it located? on the trans?
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Oh where do I start. 2003 Santa Fe, V6 Auto, FWD.
The engine has been making a loud ticking noise lately, starting right after an oil change it seemed. It actually sounded a lot like a stuck lifter, so I had an engine flush done, but this did not remedy the problem. Popping the hood one day it was particularly noisy, I noticed that it sounded like it was coming from the serpentine belt tensioner (or there abouts).
Anyway, tonight, *something* finally gave. All of a sudden I heard a squealing noise, then smelled burning rubber, and my battery light came on, and I lost my power steering. I figured that the tensioner finally gave out.
I turned off the vehicle to see what I could see. A bit of melted S-belt was it. I restarted it, and the belt was turning fine again, but while it was idling, I noticed that the crank pulley was shifting in and out now and then. When it moved inward, the S-belt shifted in as well, and started to rub on the timing cover, wearing a hole right through it! Have a look at the attached photo, showing the grove worn right through.
So I'm assuming that my tensioner was fine, and it was my crank pulley all a long. I'm figuring that 3 thing will need replacing:
1. Crank Pulley (the source of the problem)
2. Serpentine Belt (since it's probably half melted)
3. Timing Cover (can't see that water getting in there would be good)
Does this sound accurate?
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I replaced my hybrid battery of my NHW10 a year ago. now recently it shows the warning triangle. Once it went off after a long drive but now its permanent. is there a way to Diagnose what is the cause of this? If its a Hybrid battery issue, will it go off if i replace the bad cells?
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After 9 solid years of service, my a/c compressor finally failed. According to the shop, its leaking at the center seam of the compressor. If the system is charged, then the compressor will operate until the low pressure switch shuts it down. My question is this: Can this compressor be rebuilt? If so, where can I get the parts (I'm assuming the shaft seal is leaking).
Also, a quick search on eBay provides several compressors that fit my car; however, some of them are listed as HS-17 compressors and others are HS-18. My car (according to the A/C sticker on the hood) says I have an HS-18 compressor. Are these two interchangeable? I'm asking because if the current compressor can't be rebuilt, then I will have to buy either a reman. or new unit.
Car: 2002 Hyundai Santa Fe, GLS, 2.7L V6
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