Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: With AC Running When Condenser Fan Comes On Electrical System Seems To Short Out Briefly
Mar 23, 2015
I have a strange problem with my 2001 Santa Fe GLS that I can't put a finger on.
With my AC running, whenever the condenser fan (the one on the driver side) comes on, the electrical system seems to short out briefly (1/2 sec) - all lights go dimmed, the vehicle bucks - very scary when driving. Sometimes the engine sometimes shut off if idling.
I've changed the AC compressor (twice) and changed the entire condenser fan assembly to no avail.
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02 v6 awd my power steering cooler had a leak and was spraying fluid all over radiator. I replaced it and did a coolant flush new thermostat and a new temp sensor. Was still getting hot gauge was touching bottom of red. Did some looking my ac wasn't working for some reason the fuse was loose. I pushed it in and the big fan instantly kicked on high along with the ac. The small fan on the front of the condenser isn't running. Could this be my problem? When is it supposed to be running? I swapped the relays around with no change. I might take it apart tomorrow and hardware fan to see if it shot craps.
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We are at 120K miles. The vehicle runs fine most of the time, but every once in 10-15 starts, it will rough idle or stall after a short warm up time when my wife stops at an intersection. Once she restarts it, it runs fine.
I have changed the spark plugs and wires, the fuel pump, the crankshaft position sensor (was fried) and after consulting this forum, I checked the fuel pressure regulator and the diaphragm is not leaking.
I was able to recreate the rough idle and the CEL on the dash, but my two OBDII readers said there were no codes And the bluetooth reader I am using is indicating that the following tests are not completing: Fuel System, Catalyst, Evaporative System and Oxygen Senors.
The dash CEL resets itself upon restart and does not light until the symptoms return.
After reading the Haynes Repair Manual, I am wondering about the Evaporative Emissions Control (EVAP) system? But I don't want to lead the troubleshooting.
We bought the vehicle at 60K miles and it has been mostly reliable.
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I have an issue for the last couple of years. I drive a 2006 hyundai santa fe with 168,000 km's on it. the problem I am having only happens on any cold day and never above zero celcius and when I start the vehicle on a cold day and go for a short trip to the store run in for about 5-10 minutes and I come back out and it won't start, there is lots of power but it wont roll over at all but after trying many times it will eventually start and there is no CEL showing and I have never plugged it in on a cold day and as cold as the canadian winters get here its been down to as low as -40 in the morning and no problems at all, a little roll and a groan and away she goes which is typical in our cold climates.
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I have a 2002 Honda accord (161k) This summer the entire electrical system would briefly shut down. I could keep driving and the engine never completely quit but it just blinked off and then back on. It seems to do it more in hot weather.
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I have a 1983 Dodge W150 that has a problem. It stops running with the electrical system completely shut down. If the battery is taken out of the system, and then reconnected, it starts and runs fine. Some history: a trailer brake control was installed a few years ago. Where the wire ran from the battery through the firewall, the insulation chafed and eventually shorted out. The fuseable links were burned out. I disconnected the brake control from the battery and replaced the fuseable links with a fuse block. The truck ran fine for 18 months. It has stopped twice in the last couple of days. Apparently something like a circuit breaker is tripping and then resetting when the battery is disconnected and then reconnected. My questions are
1) what is the breaker likely to be intended to protect,
2) where would the breaker be found, and
3) what is the likely cause of the breaker tripping (a short, but in what system)?
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2006 Ford Freestar. While we were on the road the electrical system failed but the engine kept running. No radio, no lights, no a/c, no ABS, no nothing – but were able to keep on driving. When I tried to turn on the fan or the a/c, the car hesitated as though the power was being interrupted. After 10-15 minutes of driving, everything seemed to return to normal. It starts and seems to run normally now, but we are hesitant to take it out on the road. What might be going on?
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This concerns a 2003 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.7L engine.
Bad rain, combined with a puddle splash caused a short (someplace). Vehicle ran poorly on way home and then eventually failed to start. Replaced the Cam Position Sensor and the Crankshaft Position Sensor. Checked all wiring and connections. Cleared codes and the vehicle started. Ran for about 15/20 minutes and a P0340 code popped with the engine light on. Car still runs fine. Researched code and learned that this code is a Camshaft Position Sensor A - Circuit Malfunction.
1. Bad ground in Circuit.
2. Open Circuit that fails to close.
3. PCM malfunction.
Questions:
1. Where in this vehicles is the PCM located? Is it within the main ECU in one of the other ECU fuses or an independent fuse?
2. Other than the 3 issues listed above, could I be overlooking anything else?
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Started working on the salvage W12 today and I need to remove the bent radiator and AC condenser. The AC refrigerant system is already low per the VCDS system (no surprise, the condenser has an imprint of the VW logo in it ) so I'm going to disconnect the lines from the condenser. Since I'm not going to put a new condenser in until I'm done with the rest of the work, I need to know how to plug the two refrigerant lines in a way to not contaminate the rest of the system. Are some rubber plugs over the connectors going to do it or is there a better way?
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I have an 01 diesel excursion and last night I came home and when I turned the headlights off the park lights/running lights stayed on. When I turned the switch to park lights on, they got a little brighter? After an hour or so, the lights then went off.
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I am experiencing a new problem with my 2006 Hyundai Elantra. For the 2nd time now (meaning this morning) the car will not start the first time in the morning. As I turn the key past the "on" position all the regular lights will come on, bells ding, etc. but when I move the key to the "Start" position, where the car would normally crank over and start, the entire car electrical system dies. (Interior lights off, non-responsive with the keyless entry, etc.) Yesterday, I figured my battery cables might be loose or something like that. By the time I popped the hood (no more than 30-45 sec) everything turned back on. I then tried to start the car again and the car started normally without issues, with me having done nothing other than pop the hood by this time.
When my car sits all day at work and I return to leave it will start normally without problems. This morning is now the 2nd time this has happened. My battery is practically brand new as it was replaced about three weeks ago. So, my question is: What could be causing the car to not start in the morning the first time, but then somehow "fix" itself without any user intervention on my part other than popping the hood?
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Truck quit running yesterday suddenly and unexpectedly. It sputtered briefly and the motor total quit running. I pulled over and tried to start and it briefly fired but then totally quit. Got towed home. And now testing to see what all to repair..Thinking fuel.
I don't get any codes from the tester with KOEO..just the good to go etc..no codes or the good to go 111..etc. Guess this problem can't be identified without motor running.
My wiring diagram doesn't give me all for my Calif car..I don't see where the relay is but my fuses are all good, and I'm getting voltage when I crank the motor at that inside firewall switch on both its wires(incoming/outgoing)..forget what its called..Inertia Switch?..that will shut off fuel pump during accident or impact etc. And I've read that this switch is upstream of the relay(if I read that post correctly) so guessing it's the pump itself that is bad.
Does that sound right? Should I go ahead and pull the fuel tank etc and replace the pump? Or is there more testing I should do? When I turn the ignition key on..the pump makes zero sound. That's not the way it normally operates. Usually with the key on the fuel pump comes on momentarily and I can hear it. Forget how to drain the fuel tank etc..I don't see a drain plug? I did it once many years ago..but forget how?
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2002 Santa Fe V6
Ran the AC yesterday for the first time after a long cold winter. Seemed fine for about 15 miles but then I came to a stop and all of the sudden smelled burning plastic/electrical... white smoke started blowing out of the vents. Pulled over, popped the hood. The smoke appeared to be coming from the passenger/rear side of the engine.
Drove it another 15 miles home (had to) but with no AC or even fan on... made it and noticed the smell and smoke but only very little.
This morning I started it up .. got under the hood and clearly can smell it coming from the same area. That is the alternator at the back of the engine passenger side right? Voltages read fine... seems to be charging ok as well.
The only indicator that it is going bad is of course the smell and smoke... I can feel it is getting very hot.. too hot to touch after only a few minutes running. Spun bearings in it maybe? Just thought I'd put that out there before I start tearing it apart.
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My air-con has packed up and I have been quoted nearly a thousand pounds to fix it. The problem is a leak in the condenser, which needs to be replaced. I've tried to source one myself, but there is some confusion over whether or not the condenser and the coolant radiators are combined, there is a vast difference in online prices.
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I have a 2002 SantaFe, V6 DOHC 4 dr, 117000 miles, that I bought in 2002 with 12000 miles on it. A couple days ago, I smelled an electrical burn smell coming in my interior air vents (no smoke).
From the top rear of the engine, closest to the firewall, was about a 6 inch wide plum of white/gray smoke, just enough to see through. I looked under the car and there wasn't smoke coming out underneath ( no wind that day). No Warning lights, engine light, etc.
I have always taken car of my SantaFe, Bud, regular oils changes, trans oil, air pressure, etc.
Since about 2007, during a couple of oil changes I have been told that there was an oil leak on the top of the engine, probably a gasket. I figured since there were not spots on my drive and it never needed topping off before the next oil chng, I would keep my money for the other bills.
What can cause smoking like this considering where it looks like its coming from? Could it be from more oil pooling over time? Can engine oil smell like "electrical" burning smell?
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It seems as though whenever I turn on the AC in the car (and sometimes even if I don't engage the AC) all the windows lock and only I can control them from the driver's control panel...
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I have an interlock installed in my 2002 Jeep Liberty Sport. I've been having electrical problems in it ever since it was installed. Prior to it being installed the jeep wasn't mine, it was my grandfathers, and he says it really wasn't driven for a while consistently but it didn't have any electrical problems before the interlock was put in. I'm not sure if this is accurate or not because I'd never driven it prior to the installation. Either way, now I believe I have a short in the electrical somewhere in the system. I'm not sure how to proceed, other then to check the fuses. The battery IS currently dead, but it wasn't.
I was able to start the car and get it down the road, hoping the alternator would charge the battery (the lights were out, none came back on) After a little bit of driving down the road I drove back into my driveway because I was scared to drive without headlights, and shut the car off. It hasn't started back up and now none of the lights or anything are working at all. We've tried jump starting the car, thinking maybe the battery was dead or the alternator went out, but the cables just started smoking and getting really hot. I really need to know how to proceed to find this short, will I have to look at all the wires in the car? Or is it possible to just use the fuse box? My knowledge of electric in a car is very limited, though I do know the basic mechanics.
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My 06 santa fe ABS system keeps kicking on every so often. I removed each sensor and cleaned it but it still keeps happening.
I noticed behind the front drivers side wheel on the gear the ABS sensor is reading. One of the teeth on the gear is missing possibly broken off, would this cause the ABS to get a faulty ready and kick on ?
How could I remedy this would out replacing the axle? Also my ABS and TCS lights do come on intermittently.
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This little engine runs very hot. To make matters worst the radiator fan comes on high on the gauge temperature reading unlike other cars I have had in the past. What else to do to run the engine cooler without affecting fuel economy? I wish there was a way to make the radiator fan come on at a lower temperature.
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Came out of my house and my 04 Sante Fe will not stay running. It worked fine on the way home form work won't stay started now. You can give it gas and everything but it just dies out after a few moments. I checked most of the basics...
-Fuel pump runs when key is on
-Added gas, over 1/4 tank
-Checked engine fuses
-removed air filters and hoses
-removed mass air intake unit
-down to throttle body and such,
-to keep running by spraying gas directly into engine?
-removed fuel pump under seat
-checked mesh filter and connections
-clean no build up no visual problems with pump or filter
-checked cut off switch, not activated
-removed gas line from injector rail getting good "squirting" from rail
I have asked everyone and most think it is some kind of sensor but I have no light on and I have put it on the OBII and no error codes are found unless I un plug one of the many sensors, which i have done to a few to check them (air mass intake).
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I have a 2002 Santa Fe V6. I'm getting the codes p1529, p0755, p0760, & p0765.
The car can start up & go, only for a short time. Engine will keep running, car won't move.
Kill the engine for 3 to 5 minutes, can start it up & go once again. Going 40mph increases the odds of the car not moving quicker.
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