My 2011 Santa Fe stalled while I was going 60 mph on a major freeway at 10:30 pm. It was very dangerous and scary, but I was able to pull off to the side of the road and get towed to safety. The "malfunction light" came on and the dealership said it had a code of PO638. They were aware of the problem and performed a software upgrade.
View 6 RepliesWhen driving on a freeway, the navigation system splits the screen to show a list of upcoming freeway exits. For some reason, the list does not show major interstate highway exits, e.g I95, I495. So, for example, if the exit for I95 is exit 5, the list goes from exit 4 right to exit 6 without listing exit 5.
I have read every page of the owners manual several time looking for a setting that may correct this, and have searched Toyota Nation archives looking for a solution, but I can't find anything.
This is for a 2014 Avalon Limited.
I bought a used 2007 Santa Fe limited 3.3 last year. I'm currently at 98k miles. I replaced fuel Spenser's, added remote start and a curt hitch, did the head gasket service, did a maintenance to replace spark plugs and coolant.
Everything was ok ( although noticed with our single digit temps the engine was slow to start) then yesterday happened. Starting car in driveway and I got a check engine light. Tried restarting car and it stayed on. No problems. Drove about 15 miles and parked car. It sat for for three hours and then used it to go a few miles up the road ( engine light came on). No problems.
Had lunch, restarted car, light on, and Then oil can red light came on. Drove about 5 miles and while slowing down for a light I felt the power steering go, car stalled, and I couldn't restart. Never heard any whines or shrieks. Pushed car into a gas station and tow truck came. He tried to jump it ( it clicks when I tried to start it but it never turned over) and if his power supply was on and I tried to crank engine it made no sounds. Towed to a shop where mechanic tried same thing. Same result. They put car on rack and tried to manually crank engine. Couldn't budge it and told me engine seized. 4500 estimate to replace engine.
Took my own mechanic out to car ( night and freezing) and he did a few other checks and agreed that engine seized but thought it was weird I didn't hear the whine of the ball bearing getting shredded. Thinks a sensor blew, causing oil pump to fail, causing engine seize.
I'm now reading about multiple issues with crank shaft sensors and pulley separation and it seems like that is a possibility however I can't get my car to turn over at all. Granted it is freezing out here.
Wife called me this evening saying she's stuck at work. She was parked in a parking garage on the 3rd level, she started the car up, coming down the ramps of the garage and on the first floor at a stop sign, the vehicle stalled out on her. She went to restart it, but it will not turn over. I come out and tried to start it with no luck. I did notice on the positive side of the battery terminal there was a lot of corrosive discharge. I cleaned that all up, but still no luck. Everything has power, bright interior lights and headlights okay. I originally thought it was just cold or lean... But still won't kick over.
View 11 RepliesMy 2010 Santa Fe came with the GPS, backup camera, satellite bluetooth capable head unit. It started acting up after being parked for 4 months. I noticed a delay in the display response to a setting change. Change an FM station preset and it would take the head unit 20-30 secs to show that change.
Did everything suggested, reset unit several times nothing worked until I de-paired all bluetooth devices. Now it works great.
I finally drove the Celica for the first time to work after rebuilding the front end. As I was exiting off the freeway the car suddenly stalled. I coasted into the lot and tried to restart. The car struggled to restart and when it finally restarted it ran extremely rough with a lot of metal on metal clatter. I tried to drive it to the other end of the parking lot and the clatter got worse and worse. Sounds like the contents of a tool box in a paint shaker.
It's always run great prior to this. The only thing that seems to have changed is the work I did to the front end and the replacement of some seals on the timing chain cover. The car still has oil but I can see oil splatter on the bottom of the distrubutor. I'm going to have it towed home in the morning.
I have a 2011 Santa Fe SE. Drove it the other day, vehicle sat for about 45 minutes, got back in and it would not crank. It had lights and power, but made no cranking sound when the key was turned. Tried to start it numerous times, waited 15 minutes to an hour then it started just fine. This has happened 3 times total. Each time the vehicle was driven for about 15 minutes then sat for awhile then would not start, but was able to start after waiting for awhile.
Brought it to a garage/mechanic who could not get the problem to repeat itself. He checked the battery hookups and looked it over, but did not see anything out of place. He did not hook it up for a diagnosis.
While we continue to enjoy our recently acquired Mineral Gray 2011 Santa Fe, I have noted a momentary engine noise upon startup after it has been shut down for say 2 hours or more.
The noise reminds me of having an oil filter with a malfunctioning or absent drain back valve where by the bearings will complain for 2-3 seconds until oil pressure rebuilds
The SF has but 20.7K miles on it to date. Do we know of this is usual for the V6, or should I be concerned and planning a dealer visit?
I love the power of the V6! We test drove a 4 cylinder model first thinking that was the way to go for economy reasons. I found this one with such low mileage, AWD, and the V6 at a great price so we jumped on it.
I am a little disappointed though that the AWD does not function "full time" like that on my 04 Dodge Durango. The SF runs rings around the Durango in the mpg department though.
6K mile 2011 Santa Fe Limited front wheel drive V6 and I am getting a humming/howling sound at 55+ MPH and it is very annoying, not too loud but there. It is really bad at 75+...
The tires were road forced balanced and a alignment was done by the dealer. The Rear was way out of align but they supposedly fixed it.
I do not get any kind of vibration in the body or steering wheel but the humming/howling sound is terrible. Almost like when you crack one of the rear windows and you get that pressure sound...
The vehicle has 80,000kms, and from a cold start it is having this problem more and more frequently. I must crank the engine 3+ times, and then she starts. A prolonged cranking period doesn't seem to work, and this only occurs when cold. The car starts fine when warmed up. I have scanned the car with a generic OBD2 reader and there are no codes. Once the car is running, it runs great with no misfires.
View 1 RepliesI drive a 2011 Limited. Three out of the past four mornings the car has been reluctant to start. It is cold out, but not super cold. This morning it was 1C (34F).
When I turn the key, it cranks but does not fire. I Held the key for what felt like forever, but in reality it was probably only 6 seconds. I let go of the key, waited a few moments and then tried again. After the third try, it finally fired and ran normally. It didn't stutter or otherwise seem to have any problems.
At this point I went inside and found my basic scan tool. No codes were stored and the voltage was between 13.5v and 14.6v. After I drove to work, I turned it off. The voltage dropped to 12.1v. When I cranked it again at work, I saw the voltage drop to 9.5v for a second before it fired up and jumped to 13.5v, then 14.6v.
The car has the original battery. Could it be as simple as a battery? Oh, I Just remembered, when the car did start, the radio was off. Upon turning it on, it was reset to defaults. Other than this starting issue that has only recently started, pun intended, and the radio I am having no other issues with the car.
My New (weeks old) 2011 SF GL V6 speedometer reading is way to high. I've confirmed this with my GPS. My last 2 cars were Honda`s - one with a digital speedo (Civic) amd they were both bang on with the GPS.
So, my issue is why is the speedo so far out - 10%. I have to drive 110 km/h for a 100km/h on the GPS. On the positive side - I'll never get a speeding ticket.
But to all of you that claim to drive at 75mph and get 25mpg - I'm guessing your really traveling way slower. What can be done. In this day and age a calibrated speedometer isn't asking for much.
I have a 2011 Santa Fe 3.5L with about 108,000 kms (roughly 65,000 miles) that seems to have produced a bit of a whining sound from the engine. It will do it in park, or in gear, and the sound seems to increase slightly with an increase in RPMs.
View 7 RepliesJust bought a used 2011 SF GLS and the interior lights weren't coming on. I engaged the "door" button on the back seat dome light and they now come on as they should when the doors are opened or closed. BUT I can't get the front map lights to come on at all when the door opens. Engaging the "door" button for the map lights doesn't do it.
View 18 RepliesMy sister has a 2011 Santa Fe that was making some noise so she had it looked at at a local Monroe, which then said that the Alternator Pulley is loose. I haven't had the chance to look at the car myself, but in this case, would it be possible to replace just the pulley? Or will I have to replace the whole alternator?
The guys from Monroe said the alternator will have to be replaced as a whole. But from pictures I'm seeing online, it looks like the pulley is held by a 6-point nut, with a torx screw in between to counter hold the rotation. I can also see some listings on eBay for just the pulley. So I'm thinking I could start off by tightening the nut or replace the pulley if it's dented or off shape. Will I have to replace the whole alternator?
Just took in my 2011 Santa Fe Limited for its 22,500 mile service (oil change). I was informed that it had an "oil leak under the front cover," and it needs to be fixed before it ruins the alternator. I will have to drop it off again for a whole day to have it fixed under warranty. The service rep also told me that this was not uncommon.
View 10 Replies2011 SF. 52000kms.
A little while ago I noticed a brief vibration (felt through floor and steering) with normal acceleration from stand still... I attrributed this to the cold weather and perhaps oil thickening, as the problem went away after the car was warmed up. Since then I have noticed that it's continually happening on a regular basis, but only for a short period.. I was still thinking that it was the cold, but that wasn't the case because I left the car idle at start up for 20 minutes until well warm.
Now.. If I slowly accelerate (not putting much load on the car) there is no vibration at all. When the car reaches a certain speed, the vibration goes away. There is also no vibration after about 15 minutes of driving.
I had a neighbor test it with me to confirm and he felt it, and initially thought differential oil, but then suggested myriad other things from the CV boot to bearings to etc etc.
I need to take it to the dealership so they can experience the vibration but would certainly need to leave it there over night so they can check it out when "cold".
This car is turning out to be a huge disappointment. Bad battery right away, oil pressure switch, brake lamp switch, front driver seat guide rails broken and now premature shock failure.
I had taken the SF to get a tire plugged after vacation as I had picked up a nail. The car was a bit noise riding along the way home, but I just chalked it up to crap Manitoba roads. The tech who fixed my tire showed me the oil leaking from both front shocks.
Told me that the driver side was pretty much 100% pooched. 2011 with only 42,000 KMs. On top of the other things this car has needed, I am ready to trade it in for a truck. A truck will meet our needs much better.
My car has less than 500 miles on it. Yesterday when I started it, I heard a knocking sound. I only put 87 octane gas in the car as the manual said 87 or higher. I don't know if I made a mistake putting 87 in there.
View 4 RepliesI've been having trouble with the stock radio in my 2011 SF. It randomly turns off, then turns back on by itself, 5 to 10 minutes later. It comes back on in whatever mode/ station it was on when it turned off. I've pressed every button, tried to insert a cd, and tried the steering wheel buttons. The USB power goes off too.
The station memories stay, so I don't think it's a power issue, at least at the fuse level. The battery is fairly new. I've cleaned the fuse and both ends of both ground wires in the engine bay. When I cleaned the fuse, I lost station memories, is there two fuses for the radio, perhaps? Or does the memory power and radio power split after the fuse box?
have a GPS and don't use Sirius/XM anymore. I've read part of the radio/ nav system sticky, wow, is it long.
Have 63,000 miles on my 2011 Sante Fe. Took it in for maintenance at the dealer in Connecticut and the mechanic said the struts are leaking. I took a look at them and did notice that they have more of a sweat look on them. Dealer is quoting 750 to replace. Sounds high to me.
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