Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: 2011 GL V6 Speedometer Reading Is Way Too High
Aug 14, 2011
My New (weeks old) 2011 SF GL V6 speedometer reading is way to high. I've confirmed this with my GPS. My last 2 cars were Honda`s - one with a digital speedo (Civic) amd they were both bang on with the GPS.
So, my issue is why is the speedo so far out - 10%. I have to drive 110 km/h for a 100km/h on the GPS. On the positive side - I'll never get a speeding ticket.
But to all of you that claim to drive at 75mph and get 25mpg - I'm guessing your really traveling way slower. What can be done. In this day and age a calibrated speedometer isn't asking for much.
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Just purchased a 2008 2.0T Passat wagon, lux version. I believe my speedometer may be reading high by about 4 mph. I seem not to be keeping up with most of the traffic (assuming they are driving close to the posted speed limit). Not sure how to really check this out, but assuming the mile markers on the interstate are accurately spaced one mile apart, at 60 mph it should take me 60 seconds to cover the distance and at 70 mph it should take me 50 seconds to cover the distance. If my thinking is correct and upon doing that I find that it takes me about 66 seconds to cover the one mile at an indicated 70 mph on my speedometer
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Is my thinking correct and/or is there another way to check? Have never been able to find a shop that has calibration equipment so I just resort to this method.
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How to fix a speedometer reading fluctuation? When I am driving about 45 mph the speedometer will drop to zero (RPM does not change) and then will bounce. Some times the speedometer will remain at zero other times it will bounce back to indicating speed.
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Both of my 2011 Santa Fe's headlamps (high and low) are not working. The fuses seem to be ok (ohm meter checked) and so do the relays (swapped with other relays). When I switch the lights on to the first position, I hear the relay for the 'parking' lights switch on and those lights work. When I move it to the headlight or auto positions, I don't hear the headlight relays click in.
Is there a schematic/parts location/troubleshooting diagram anywhere (they are not on the HMA web site)? Is there a known connector/wiring issue? I just found a diagram for the multifunction switch on steering wheel, with a pin out of the connector, but that's all I have. This will be hard to trace without some idea of where the wires are going.
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This is kind of a strange (minor) issue, but I noticed just recently that the outside temperature reading on my 2012 Sonata GLS is registering about 10 degrees hotter than the real outside temperature. This is driving down the road, not parked in the sun. It showed 91 degrees the other day as I was driving home from work, when the actual high for the area was barely 80.
My thoughts were that something was blocking or covering the sensor for the outside temp reading, but don't know where that sensor is located to check it...or if there might be some other way to "reset" the temp reading?
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I am having problems with my intake manifold tuning valve. My CEL keeps going off reading the code: P0660.
After further inspection, the plastic piece that connects the valve to the front solenoid has cracked. I was able to glue it for a temporary fix, but the dealer says Hyundai only sells the piece with the entire upper surge tank, not just the small plastic piece alone.
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I have a 2007 Sante Fe with the 3.3 engine. Having a problem with the Fuel gauge not reading correctly and a check engine light. The engine code indicated that the problem was with the sending unit in the tank on the "A" side (behind the driver). I checked with Hyundai and with a tech line service and they indicated that it was a common problem and I needed to replace both the "A" & "B" units to correct the problem. I did that and cleared the codes and it set another code indicating that the "B" unit was the source of the code. I pulled the "B" unit again and checked the wiring and the problem still was there. I switched out the units on the "B" side again with the old unit and the problem is still there.
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I'm curious why the speedometer on the Santa fe goes to 140mph when the speed limiter will only let you go to 105mph. I have done ECU upgrades with Nissan's and ECU "reflashes" with Toyotas in the past. How to eliminate the 105 PMH speed limiter?
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Several years ago, a tree limb fell on out Dodge Neon, breaking the windshield. At that time, the dash gauges worked fine, and continued to for at least a year. Then, every once in a while, the speedometer would just go dead. no mph reading, and the odometer would not register either. over the last several years, it has become more prevalent, and is not not working more than it is. the other gauges are also intermittently failing to read as well. the scariest thing, is when it does come back, the air bag light comes on for about 5 seconds! which to me means there is a possibility that if we were in an accident, they might not work at all.
I believe the dash circuit board is cracked, and this is why this is happening. If the actual dash has to come out of the car, which is what i have feared all this time, it will have to stay that way until we get rid of the car. i can not lay on my head (upside down with my head under the dash) for hours on end trying to find and remove all 40 bolts or plastic clips or darts, or what ever they use these days to hold a dash assembly in. How to replace that board (gauges)? Can it be done without removing the dash? i have a Haynes service manual for it, but we all know how bad those are. I would like to repair this, but i can not afford dealers labor rates, and my luck with home grown shops has been poor at best.
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Does the Touareg have the 10% error in speedometer reading like my GTI does?
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Is there a way with VCDS to adjust the speedometer reading to match my GPS? The reason I am asking is that I have the wrong winter tire size on my car (205-55-R16) and the difference is 15km/hr more the I really drive.
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My speedometer reads accurate only till around 45 mph. The needle begins to float around gently, and the faster I go, the more discrepancy it reads. It may hang a while, floating around 60 and the speedometer app on my phone says I'm going 74.
The speed sensors were replaced for another issue a year and a half ago. The dealership initially wanted me to put a new transmission in it for $3800 after they said the trans was slipping past 45. Then they said something instead about a valve plate (could be wrong vernacular) for $1000 instead of an entire transmission.
When I finally told them that my cruise control is completely erratic, trying to track the needle movements with upshifts and downshifts, they said it's $200 in parts for the drive gears and that they were made with plastic that can wear out.
So I said I would sit on it, since the ideas about the issue seem to vary greatly, and my father set me up to go to a transmission shop to have the car checked out. They had it for two days and changed the fluid out but we can't fix your speedometer issue... take it to the speedometer shop, but btw we think your transmission is fine.
Now, do I take it back to the dealer for the drive gears, or do I take it to another specialist? I have seen people say all it needed were the drive gears replaced and a new sensor. My odometer seems to still be working. There is no issue with my gas gauge.
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I have a 2003 Ford Focus ZX5 automatic with 143k miles on it. Recently I've run into a problem with the speedometer and RPM gauges dropping down to 0, no reading. It is an intermittent problem and has no logical connection to any of the other functions of the vehicle (it can happen while the car is idling, in motion, upon startup, etc etc.) Everything else on the instrument cluster works perfectly fine, (odometer still reads correctly and works, gas gauge is fine, etc). I'm thinking maybe it is an electrical issue since the car seems to be in fine working condition other than that, even when it drops out. The gauges won't start reading again until I start the car up...and sometimes that is not a guarantee. I use this vehicle to commute locally 4 days a week and I've already put a lot of money into new components for the vehicle.
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On the way home from my first weekend trip in my '04Screw, I noticed the speedometer did not agree with my GPS, which was sitting ontop of the dash. The speedometer was reading 2-3 mph faster than the GPS.
The truck was taching about 2,000 rpm .. speedometer read 72-73 .. and the Garmin III+ GPS read 2-3 mph less than the truck, tracking 8 out of 12 satellites, and varied between 68 and 69 mph.
My Lariat does have 18 inch tires. I don't have a clue if that caused the difference.
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I have a 2003 Toyota Camry LE V6, It has 15 inch stock wheels on it
If I go to a larger wheel, is it possible to change the wheel speed so that the speedometer reads correct? If I have read correct, the stock offset is +45 and the lug pattern is 5x114.3 and a 6.5inch wheel?
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Got a weird one today. Everything was fine all day. Got the old girl smogged this afternoon and made one more quick stop. Got back on the freeway and up to speed and looked down. Speedo said I was 90? Yeah right. I was going with the flow.
So I plugged in my bluetooth ALDL dongle and fired up OBD Link. Well, OBD Link showed normal and accurate speeds. As did a second app on my phone for giving speed. So my VSS must be working correctly.
So my speedo is showing about 25 over actual. When the ignition if off the needle sits between 20 and 25. so did my speedo take a dump? Is there anything else I might try to see if it auto-calibrates?
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The 19.5" wheels are not an option on the 2013 F-450, unless you order a Chassis Cab. I'm certain many have made this change. My question is can the dealership make the necessary changes so the speedometer correctly measures the vehicle speed?
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My 2011 6-speed automatic AWD santa fe was in a front end collision (T-boned a car that pulled out into the road then stopped) but was still drivable, just bumper damage. About a week later while waiting on the front bumper to come in, the starter died mechanically (of course, no relation, according to the shop and insurance adjuster since even though the starter is about 12" behind the point of impact, there was no undercarriage damage, ie, not related to accident). So when they got the part in, they replaced the bumper and the starter.
When I picked up the car from the shop, the check engine light came on when I got out on the road. On the road, the car had almost no acceleration. The engine RPM went up, almost to 7k but the car was moving slowly. This was on the on-ramp of the freeway and very disconcerting. It did make it up to about 40mph initially and then on the slight incline, took me about 30 seconds to make it to 60mph. I got off the freeway and pulled into an Oreilly auto and had them read the code. It came across as the phantom P200A (something about MAF sensor but usually not a true error in this make/model). I called the dealership, took it back. The guy looked at it while I waited, brought it around, said it was fixed, just had to have a code cleared and the check engine light went out. His experience was simply driving it in first, maybe second gear in the lot. He said it was the ECM, and this was typical as it had the battery disconnected for a couple days, the ECM needed to "relearn" the controls. He said give it a few weeks and it would be fine.
I got it out on the road, no more check engine light, but the acceleration/rev situation was still present. It has been a month, and it hasn't gotten better or worse. I can drive the 6-speed in auto around town, though it shifts higher, around 4k RPM if I am at all accelerating, or on even a slight incline. I can put the pedal to the floor while driving in auto, and it drops out of gear and into neutral, at least the way it feels, revs up, would red-line if i didn't come off the gas, but never accelerates, it acts like it drops into neutral. If I am driving with the car in manual shifting mode and choose where I want it to shift, it shifts fine, doesn't feel like it drops to neutral, however I can floor the pedal and it still only slowly accelerates, especially on an incline. It seems to bog down around 40mph or so, and take forever to get above that. Downshifting manually raises the RPM as expected, but no increase in acceleration.
Now I have a check engine light on again, and am taking the car back to the repair shop this week without clearing the light so maybe they can see something else that may have cleared at the auto part store last time. Basically, I have read multiple causes/symptoms which partially match this, but nothing exactly.
1. Limp home mode on ECM
2. Throttle position sensor
3. MAF sensor (or whatever the 2011 Santa Fe has equivalent)
4. TCM (Transmission Control Module)
There was absolutely nothing wrong with the car before the wreck, then the starter. No shifting/idling issues. I am wondering what a repair shop replacing a bumper and transmission could have done, that would create this problem. The transmission couldn't have died between working fine, won't start, and here, your starter and bumper are fixed but the tranny is FUBAR. I am thinking it absolutely HAS to be a sensor or computer controller of some sort, but not much on the web showing which sensors are which and where they are in a 2011 Santa Fe.
I believe the MAF/throttle body has to be removed to get to the starter (directly below it if I am not mistaken). One last thing, it is an AWD... it was towed from my house to the dealership with all 4 wheels up, as required for a AWD vehicle. If the shop pulled it from the lot to the garage, a few hundred feet at most, with 2 wheels up and 2 down, could that cause all this?
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As the weather is getting colder I noticing again my RPM's taking longer to drop down to 1200 or less. Upon startup the engine rev's to 2000 and drops in 2 sec quickly to around 1500 (all these are based on the crude gauge readings, not a digital tach).
I don't like high RPM cold starts in the first place and why its stays just around 1500 and lower for about 2 minutes before it lowers to around 1200RPM. I don't like engaging the transmission at those high RPM's. My other vehicles did nothing like this and the increased start RPM was down 1000 within a minute.
What sensor is having the computer run it like that and not let it drop faster. I doubt its the O2 sensor since its the same on a hot day just doesn't rev up to 2k but 1500 or so. Jabs at the gas pedal doesn't work it drop any sooner either.
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I had this item of concern as a response to another thread but I thought I'd open up a new thread and see if I could get any more attention.
I bought a used GLS and upon initial drives I have noticed a high speed vibration that seems to come from the rear (I don't feel any in the steering). In the colder weather recently I've noticed a pronounced vibration at a lower speed (just before shift points). between 2nd and 3rd. This seems to be worse with short drives or in morning.
Vibration seems to be worse just after a tighter right turns or even some left turns. I notice the most vibration right around 25mph. I also get it with moderate acceleration into a certain torque range. Like driving at 45 and accelerating up to 60. What is going on? It seems like it is linked to acceleration (torque) and possible pressure from turns. CV joint / axle? Wheel bearing? It seems like a tire would be worse as speed increased and more consistent.
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Like on most Chevrolet's or other cars, when you unlock your car with the remote, your headlights come on for awhile. I've tried to 'unlock' this feature with a scanner but the only option I was able to change was the auto lock door function. Is there any way to activate this feature (if possible)? If its not possible with a scanner. I have a '09 Santa Fe Limited, w/ Auto Lights w/o DRL.
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