Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: AC Turning Off / Eventually Back On Then Will Not Turn On
Jul 9, 2015
As I'm driving my 2007 Santa Fe with the A/C turned on, it will randomly turn off. I'll try to push the button to turn it back on and it won't turn back on, I wait try it again and eventually it turns back on. There are times when I'm driving without the A/C on and it kicks on by itself. After about 3months of this weird on and off, my A/C now will NOT turn on. The other day my friend gave the glove compartment a kick and it miraculously turned on. There was even an instance where I was driving over bumps in the street and my A/C finally kicked on and even when I've hit the brake hard it's turned on. I want to get this fixed but do not have the cash right now to take it to a mechanic or the dealership. Would this have something to do with the compressor? Is it electronic?
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My 2011 santa fe radio turn off by it self and come back on when ever he want. It start this 2 weeks ago, some day everything work fine, and other days is doing this. What the problem is? Its the basic radio not the infinity.
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What it means when you turn the temperature way down, it'll eventually display LOW? What does it do?
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It appears that my drivers side low beam on my 08 prius shuts off from time to time. It seems to be during the rain, or damp weather. how can i figure out where the break in the wire is, if it is not clearly visible, OR is there a common site that separates in this model.
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Starting a few days ago, three lights on my dashboard display started to turn on. Sometimes they don't turn on for a few minutes after the car is running, but they do eventually turn on. The first is a red "BRAKE" light above the gas gauge. The second is a yellow/orange "ABS" light above the speedometer. And the last is a yellow/orange symbol of a car sliding, or swerving, this one besides the RPM gauge. What do they mean and why would they suddenly start turning on together?
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One of my Aerostar pet peeves is to do with the sliding door alignment, or should I say slight misalignment.
Some of the alignment problems can be attributed to worn out nylon roller bearings. Make sure the roller guide ways are clean of any foreign debris. When you car wash your Aero, make sure to also clean the interior roller guide way (open the sliding door and thoroughly clean around the area where the bottom sliding door wheel travels).
After 20 years of usage, the sliding door will eventually drop down and back a few millimeters. Some of the symptoms associated with this will be a sporadic loss of electrical contact with those that are outfitted with electrical door locks. Also, the sliding door may also require some manual assistance at back edge to open the door. It can become somewhat frustrating, and perhaps a little embarrassing when parked beside a newer vehicle outfitted with automatic door opening/closing mechanisms.
I am not sure if the elevation of the sliding door can be adjusted at the rear or in the middle, but I do know that the horizontal position of the sliding door can be adjusted to a certain degree. The vertical position can be only adjusted by a very tiny amount.
1) Remove all of screws on the sliding door interior panel, and as well as the torx screw on the open/close barbaric door handle.
2) The bottom panel, other than the screws, has 2 plastic/nylon semi-resuble flat headed holder fittings.
3) Remove the two interior rubber grommets at the rear edge of the door. This will reveal 3 adjustment bolts.
4) Loosen the bolts, then push the door a bit forward while holding the middle hinge. Don't push too much! Just a little.
5) Re-tighten the middle handle bolts, and subsequently re-adjust the striker bolt. This is a PITA to align properly.
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I have a 2007 Santa Fe. My air conditioner keeps turning on by itself. I press it to turn off, but keeps turning on. I do this several times before it stays off. Then after 10 - 15 minutes, it turns back on. Is this a relay problem or a button problem?
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Proud new owner of a 2001 7.3....today. The previous owner installed Warn standard hubs. I assume they work same as OEM with the exception that I have to get out and lock them, right? Also, when I test drove it, and after locking them, I engaged to 4x4 button and the 4x4 engaged and worked. However, when I disengaged my AC went to defrost just like my old 7.3. The AC eventually came back. Is this normal? I think it also went to defrost when I engaged. The AC does come back after a couple minutes after disengaging.
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I have a 2008 HYUNDAI SANTA FE 2.2 CRTD CDX MANUAL. It jumps when reversing, especially when turning in reverse. Is this normal or is there a fault?
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I am having a problem with the stock radio resetting itself after turning off the car.
Just recently had to replace the battery which was not an issue. After the new battery was installed I set the clock, cabin temp, and radio stations. Came back to the car later, turned it on and noticed the radio was off. Hit the power button and it came on with the default stations, volume settings, etc. This happens every time the car is turned off and left for more than a few minutes. What's odd the clock and temperature controls DO keep their settings. It's only the radio that's the problem and resets back to it's defaults.
How to correct this?
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My 2012 V6 Santa Fe turned itself off on the freeway today, only 3500 miles,
was in stop and go traffic, stopped and the car just turned off! No shaking or anything. Turned back on (so its not the battery, and YES it had plenty of gas), went about 100 ft and turned off again! Took into the dealer, they won't have an answer until Monday.
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I have a metal sounding rattle coming from the back of the vehicle. It sounds like it is coming from the hatch area. I removed all loose things (jack) and the noise is still there.
I checked the license plate and put foam behind it, I wrapped the latch with a layer of tape. The noise seems a bit better but still there when on rough roads.
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I have a 2007 Santa Fe GLS. I took both LCA's out and replaced the bushings and the ball joints with Hyundai original parts.
I installed the bushing ends of the LCA, put the bolts thru both bushings, and then tried to insert the ball joint into the knuckle. No go! It goes in about a 1/4 inch.
How do you get the ball joint end to go all the way up, inside the knuckle? I am thinking of pounding the heck out of it till it goes in, but not sure.
I've disconnected the outer tie rods, and the links to allow for some play in the knuckle, I just don't know what I am doing wrong.
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We have a 2007 Santa Fe with 78,000 miles.
It's recently developed an issue where it has cut off on two different occasions within the past 2 weeks.
My wife said both times happened as she was slowing down and it felt like she was losing power. The vehicle cut off and then cranked right back up.
I've taken it to my personal mechanic as well as the dealership for diagnostic tests and neither were able to replicate the issue or find the problem.
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Just talked to a good friend with a 2008 limited, V6. While his wife was driving the throttle went full, then back to idle, then full while her foot was off the pedal. She put it in neutral got to the side of the road and turned it off. She just had towed to the nearest dealer. She said the dealer suspects the Throttle Position Sensor....seems to be a common problem for Hyundai, based on other issues seen on this forum with some losing power, etc. Surprised there isn't more information from Hyundai as the TPS seems to be a weak point.
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I have a 2007 Santa Fe, I have been having issues with the power. I tap the brakes and the lights go dim and come back on. Then when the truck is turned off then back on I have nothing like the truck is dead. I replaced the battery and still same issue. I then replaced the alternator and I thought it was good. Just today I decided the use the keyless remote to lock the truck and it locked but not horn sound. I tried to unlock the truck with the remote and nothing. I opened the door and no lights. Turn the key and nothing. The battery still has power to hit. What it could be?
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I have an intermittent problem with my 2008 Santa Fe GLS (Canadian model). Sometimes, when I insert the key to start the car, the in-dash key symbol won't come up (while it usually does when everything is fine). When the problem occurs, I have all electrical power and the engine will crank over; The cranking is going very fast but shows no sign of ever turning over and the car will never start. It really looks as if the immobilizer does not recognize the key and so refuses to start the engine. So I have to remove the key, wait some time and try again. Usually, it can take 3-4 times (and up to 15 minutes!) before the key-symbol light comes up again in the dash, and then the engine will start as if nothing ever happened.
This problem occurs approximately once a week, but you never know when. I went to the dealer just for that problem but they had no clue and could not reproduce it, .... so they ended-up doing nothing to fix it. The car also has a remote starter that was installed at the dealer. It usually works fine. But the problem also occurred a few times with the remote starter trying to start the car by itself. I could hear the never ending cranking noise from the spinning starter, until the remote starter stopped for few seconds and tried again. I had to stop the remote starter manually.
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When I turn on the A/C, there had a ice-breaking like sound was came out from the unit. After around 10 minutes it will become normal.
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2010 SF Limited, about 46,000 KM.
Heard a grinding noise coming from the back of the truck today. First thing I thought to look at was the rotors. They looked warped/wavy and were really hot. I'm worried that the pads are used up and its metal on metal, really looks like rotor damage. I'm confused by this...
1) I get a safety inspection done every time i'm in for service (6km), no service rep has ever warned me about my pads.
2) Aren't squealers supposed to warn the driver of low pads?
3) Pads wear out faster in the front than they do in the back. How could the back pads be used up already? The front looks fine.
So if my back calipers are seized, or the e-brake line froze, then i'm driving with the back brakes engaged full time. This should not have happened to a truck so young. Do I have a warranty case here?
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My 2012 Santa fe crdi2.2 has 150000km. At the speed of 90km/H and faster there is a vibration coming from the back (passenger side I think).
There is no play on that wheel when it’s in the air, but it doesn’t turn smoothly. It turns smoothly until a point where there is obviously friction, once past that point it turns smoothly again for 3 quarters of the way until it reaches the same point…
The back wheel on the passenger’s side is the same story. Although the vibrations seem to come mainly from the driver’s side (at the back). Is this a wheel bearings problem or can it be something else?
I put a winter wheel at the back (driver’s side) to see if the problem was caused by the wheel. There is less vibration when driving, but it also starts at 90km/H. This winter tyre is higher, so probably it absorbs the vibrations better.
It's not a 4x4.
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I was noticing that the shade for the sunroof does not slide back 100%. It seems like they could have made it go back another inch or 2.
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