Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Brief Interim Of Engine Compartment Fumes
Dec 6, 2011
Ok, best way to splain this is after our Santa Fe has been warmed up and after a short shopping jaunt and restarting there is a brief interim of engine compartment fumes when the heater is turned on. Within a minute this is gone and not a problem but it's as if lingering fumes get somewhere within the ductwork although I cannot recall having this happen during warm months with the ac being on. I've never encountered this problem in other cars we've had. It's not overwhelming and only lasts a minute or so after starting.
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My wife's 2000 Hyundai Accent GL wouldn't start one morning. She tried to get a jump from someone, assuming it was a problem with the battery and apparently, they crossed the cables accidentally and melted the positive terminal of her battery. I replaced the battery about 2 weeks later and the car started up...a little rougher than normal, but it started nonetheless. After 30 seconds or so, the engine started to smoke. It seemed like it was coming from the rear of the engine.
After leaving it off for a few minutes, we restarted it and it was smoking again, this time from the front of the engine. I took a good whiff of the smoke and it's definitely gas fumes/exhaust fumes/I don't know. It seems like a pretty big coincidence for the battery to die and the exhaust manifold to become cracked all at the exact same time but I guess anything is possible. I guess my question is...is there something that could be causing this smoke and smell that could be linked to the battery being jumped incorrectly?
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2007 santa fe Had the engine replaced run very well . Every couple of days i get the PO455 code. Replaced the gas cap. Try to use my sense of smell to find the location of the leak . No odor of gas fumes. Spent an hour trying to find it. Will consider smoke test but wondering if it might be the vapor pressure sensor. Is it at the top of the gas tank, how do i get it it? Its the only code that comes up.
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I've been experiencing an intermittent screeching sound that is emitting from the engine compartment. I've attached a zipped sound bite of the screeching sound, starts at about 7 seconds into the recording.
The screeching sound is not audible if the car is moving while in neutral or when it's parked idling. The screeching was noticeable as I gave it gas when parked or was in gear as the car was moving; as though as the RPMs increased a defective belt or pulleys rotational speed is causing the sound?
The sound just started while driving home from the store which is about a 10 min drive, no freeway speeds. I had not driven the car all day and it had been garaged. I had recorded the sound bite once I got home before turning off the car. Restarted the car a few time, sound persisted. Started the car the following day to take to the dealership, no screeching sound, all sounds normal. Possibly engine compartment temperature related?
This is the second time I've experienced this screeching sound, first time was about 2 months ago and had not heard it since until the other day. The dealership was unable to reproduce the sound when I took it in the last time.
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Any way, my 2007 Sonata with 57,000 miles just developed a whining noise on the right side of the engine compartment. It sounds like it is concurrent with RPM and I thought it might be the alternator, the drive belt or some pulley. I have even seen on the general internet that some others had a bad oil filter. To me, the noise seems to be coming from the alternator area. It is a relatively high pitched noise that almost sounds like an electric motor. Would love to get it fixed. I am nearing the 60,000 max on replacement from certain items and do not know if the alternator is covered.
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So, I have 100K miles on a 2007 4Runner (V6) and after having my radiator flushed at the Toyota dealership service dept, I get my car back and now hear a low rumbling noise coming from the engine compartment. I hear this noise every time I turn on the air conditioner, and sometimes even when it's off.
I took my car to Toyota today and after getting the service advisor to acknowledge the noise, I get a call 2 hours later saying, a) that no noise was identified by the technician; b) nothing wrong with my car; and c) I can come pick it up.
It ain't my imagination. Clearly, something is wrong. What it is? Should I take it to another service department? This kind of thing makes me crazy!
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I would describe the noise as a whirling/vibration sound that can be heard as soon as the gas engine portion of the car kicks in (even in park) but gets louder and more noticeable as the car is in motion, especially at highway speeds (55 - 65mph). Opening the hood and listening to the engine block, the noise is definitely coming from around the area of the silver-covered portion by the driver's-side, which I believe is the hybrid synergy engine. The noise has gotten to the point where I really get bothered by it driving anywhere, and I have to turn up the radio to try to drown out the noise.
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I have a 2007 Azera with a 3.8 engine. It has 16000 miles without any problems. There is a clicking noise coming from the engine compartment when accelerating. The noise only occurs when the engine is cold and seems to be more pronounced when accelerating quickly. I do not hear it when the car is idling.
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I need to diagnose an issue I've had with my 2007 Prius with 79,000 miles on it. Several months ago I noticed a distinctive whining/humming noise coming somewhere from the engine compartment of the car while driving. The noise may be present at lower speeds, but the volume of the noise appears to increase proportionately with my acceleration and as such is most noticeable at highway speeds of 50 - 70 miles per hour. As I accelerate faster, the noise level seems to increase. If I take my foot off the gas and coast, decreasing speed, the whining noise gets lower in volume. I believe I first noticed this noise about 6 months ago, but wasn't more proactive about it like I normally would be because at first the noise didn't seem overly loud and my extended warranty unfortunately was up once I hit 77,000 miles. Now 6 months after I first noticed the noise, I believe it's definitely louder than it was when I first heard it, so much so that I can pick it out over the radio being on at a decent volume.
After checking some forums I thought the culprit might be a wheel bearing. I took it into a local Midas shop at they informed me that my passenger-side front wheel bearing was actually breaking apart in pieces. Obviously I had that wheel bearing replaced but I was also hoping this was the source of the whining noise. Unfortunately that wasn't the case as driving it home the noise was still present. They also said the tires were not balanced properly (from my Toyota Dealership no less when I had them install new tires) so I had the tires rebalanced as well. They did take the car for a test drive but probably stop looking for issues with the car as soon as they saw the wheel bearing in that condition. Also that shop does not specialize in Prius' or hybrids so they might not be able to notice the noise that shouldn't be there like I can.
Other than wheel bearings, where this noise could be coming from. Some posts on here possibly pointed to the ICE water pump or transaxle fluid (which as far as I know has never been replaced since I bought the car new).
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My luggage compartment light will not come on when the tailgate is opened. The bulb works fine and the light comes on if I move the switch to the "on" position. It will not work in the "middle" position.
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My mom has a 2000 Passat 1.8T Sedan. For the last six months the car has the distinct smell of engine fumes in the cabin. The smell becomes more prevalent whenever the fan is running (A/C or not). She has constantly been back and forth to the dealer but to no avail. The smell is there are idle or just driving around and requires a window to be opened for fear of passing out.
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For 2009 and 2010 f150's with the 5.4L engine, this may apply to you.
About a month back I got some odd vibrations at start-up and while driving and the following codes:
P0345 - Camshaft Position Sensor, Bank 2 (drivers side), circulation error
P0349 - Camshaft position Sensor, Bank 2 (drivers side), circulation Interim.
These codes are common in the previous generation truck for various reasons. In my case, I started trying to troubleshoot with the easiest solutions first.
Checked the battery - fully charged.
Checked/played with the alternator connection and related wiring - looked good.
Checked the oil - it was down at the half mark on the dipstick, so toped it off with synthetic oil.
Cleared the codes, and now have been driving for a month, no issues, no codes!
If these codes come up for other folks, try the easiest on the list first, before bringing to the dealer... these codes can be really hard to solve, but sometimes we can get lucky.
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Something really strange is happening as I opened the hood after stopping the car the other day and it seems like something is burning ( doesn't smell like oil ) and smoky is coming out from the left side of engine compartment?!? What can it be as I can't see any oil leaks or anything? can something be melting
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I got an error that shows my that my gas is leaking gas fume and the check engine light is on because of that so I was wondering if this is really oem.
[URL] ....
Same one I have on my car but was just wondering if that is really oem for my camry.
1 more thing is can someone link me to a fuel door because the current one I have right now makes a noise when you open the fuel door like it scraps the inside of the fuel door with the body so I need a new one that will have the same color as my car which is a gray phantom pearl.
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For the last two days I've had a very intermittent (tck, tck, tck) sound coming from what sounds like the glove compartment area. It has a rep rate of around three times a second and is very regular. It sounds like a relay to me. It has only lasted less than 20 seconds on each occurrence so don't have time to troubleshoot. I took that area apart and I see two 12volt 25 amp what look like relays just to the right of the glove compartment. I've left that area torn apart so if it happens again I can feel the relays and get it down to one-and or eliminate them as the cause of the noise.
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Since day one I've had an issue with the exhaust leaking on my car, right at the flex pipe before the cat. I have replaced it at least 5 times in the last year. Every 2 moths or so it tears the flexpipe right in half, like it's literally in 2 pieces when I take it out. So, I thought that maybe the factory dogbone mount was old and weak, causing the engine to move around more, therefore tearing the flexpipe apart, so I got an new dogbone with poly bushings to combat that. It did reduce engine movement, but the exhaust kept breaking at the same spot. Then I thought that the metal was weak from it being welded so many times, so I got a new downpipe with the cat on ebay for like 150 CAN, and put a new gasket on, and now it still leaks...
Only thing though, is that this time on cold starts (as it is winter, so around -25 celcius) its really REALLY loud, like the exhaust sheared off right after the cat. However, after a few hours of driving it seems to get quieter at idle, but if you give it a little gas, it is quite audible. Also I can see exhaust fumes coming out my engine bay on said cold starts, however if I get down to ground level, I can hear it plain as day right where the pinch clamp is that connects to the catback part.
So, my theory is that, cause the bands on the clamp rusted out so my dad just put those u-bolt muffler clamps on there, which I can see an opening in the clamp, even if they're tight, until the exhaust gets hot and expands, kinda making the seal tighter but not air tight like it should. So maybe that clamp isn't doing it's job anymore and I just need a new one. OR it could be that that stupid flex pipe is broken again or that the bolts holding it to the manifold aren't tight, which that can't be cause i got them pretty snug on there. I'll have to take a look underneath again, see If I see any carbon on the exhaust, which would mean a leak, but I checked a few weeks ago and it was shiny metal, no signs of any leaks.
Car is an 04 golf with the 2.0 engine code BEV if that makes any difference. I double checked and NONE of the hangers are broken, and it's held in the right spot as it should, there looks to be no force exerted on the flexpipe at all when installed in the car, so I'm really confused.
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I start hearing rattle on my 2010 UL ES350. I think it's coming from either glove compartment or the wood on right passenger front door. It's really annoying.
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I have a 2009 Sante Fe, it has about 96000KM on it. It is a 3.3 engine AWD.
I find that when I accelerate the thing kind of feels rough. It is very subtle. Like you can almost miss it if I wasn't being so picky. But I can definitely feel something there. What this would be.
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With about 32K miles, I started getting a knock in the morning that would go away when warmed up. When I took the car in for service, I mentioned it and the service adviser said, it sounds like the timing chain tensioner leaking down, we have seen that.
Well it was not the tensioners, I was informed that, it was low oil pressure that did NOT trigger the oil light or any warnings, and my main bearings and a rod bearing were shot, it seems that the oil pump was not putting out as it should. Supposedly, it was only putting out 10 PSI. Oddly enough once the engine warmed up, there was no lifter/tappet noise that would indicate low oil pressure that I have experienced in the past with other engines.
The oil has been changed on time, the oil was clean, and the engine was not abused. Other than this the car ran fine. So the short block was replaced under warranty. This is a 3.5 V6.
This is quite disturbing, that some type of low oil pressure message or idiot light was not flashing on my dash. I have seen oil pumps from other manufacturers produce low oil pressure if the pressure relieve valve was stuck open.
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I own a 2008 Hyundai Santa Fe with the 3.3 V6 engine and 129,000 miles, I am the second owner. When I bought the car a month ago I had it tuned up by a local shop, not the dealer, I was getting around 23 MPG hwy and around 17 City, then just this week I noticed an increase in gas consumption to 13 mpg in the city and the car losses power when coming off a stop. I took the car to the shop and the said that there was a faulty coolant sensor, they replaced it and I drove it home, the car lost fire 3 times within 5 miles from the shop.
I took the car back to the shop and they kept it there for half a day, when I stop by they said that their computer shows two reports, one a faulty oxygen sensor and the other a problem with the catalytic converter, I asked which converter and they could not tell me. I also inquired why is it that the check engine light has not come on once, they also had no answer.
I then too it to a muffler shop, explained the situation and they said that if there is no check engine on they cannot diagnose the problem, thus drove back home where the car lost fire twice, always coming off a full stop, no hesitation, no missing, the car's engine simply goes off, I turn the key and comes back to life, it doesn't shake or sputter, as if nothing happened and again, no check engine light.
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As appear on the attached video , sometimes the ESP off and ABS lights again at Engine start , and after the switch on checkup. Is that normal , or indicate upcoming issue?
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