Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Engine Goes Dead Several Times A Day But CEL Does Not Come On
Mar 19, 2016
I own a 2008 Hyundai Santa Fe with the 3.3 V6 engine and 129,000 miles, I am the second owner. When I bought the car a month ago I had it tuned up by a local shop, not the dealer, I was getting around 23 MPG hwy and around 17 City, then just this week I noticed an increase in gas consumption to 13 mpg in the city and the car losses power when coming off a stop. I took the car to the shop and the said that there was a faulty coolant sensor, they replaced it and I drove it home, the car lost fire 3 times within 5 miles from the shop.
I took the car back to the shop and they kept it there for half a day, when I stop by they said that their computer shows two reports, one a faulty oxygen sensor and the other a problem with the catalytic converter, I asked which converter and they could not tell me. I also inquired why is it that the check engine light has not come on once, they also had no answer.
I then too it to a muffler shop, explained the situation and they said that if there is no check engine on they cannot diagnose the problem, thus drove back home where the car lost fire twice, always coming off a full stop, no hesitation, no missing, the car's engine simply goes off, I turn the key and comes back to life, it doesn't shake or sputter, as if nothing happened and again, no check engine light.
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I'm having starter issues with my santa fe. After changing the battery and doing some trouble-shooting I narrowed my problem down to one of the relays in the engine compartment.
Almost every morning when I go to start my car the dash lights are dead and the engine wont turn over. I smack a bit on the relays it will start up and until today keep running for the rest of the day.
Tonight it stalled on me in traffic and I got to experience the enjoyment of smacking my relays on the highway. I am thinking either moisture or a faulty relay with intermittent signals might be the culprit.
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I have a 2007 Hyundai Santa Fe and over the last 3 weeks I have been having a lot of trouble with my door locks. One thing is my automatic lock that happens when you hit 14mph, every time I hit 14mph my doors sound like they are locking 4 times, and every time I stop and take off again they sound like they are locking 4 more times. It is driving me crazy. Another issue I am having is my back passenger side door doesn't always unlock with the FOB or the button on the driver door, it has to manually be unlocked.
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I have Santa fe 2009, I was in a 5 days trip, now I'm back home and it seems like that the car's light was on so the battery is goes dead, now I can not open the car's door neither by remote nor by the key! why I can not open the car door with key?
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2012 Santa Fe SE and the battery went completely, utterly dead. Reason unknown but that's not the issue for now. The battery was purchased new.
Also, I had a Viper 4204 remote starter installed after I got the car, April 2014. I use the keyfob that came with the Viper to open the doors and start the car as needed.
Trying to get a jump start but as soon as I connect the cables the alarm goes off and the car won't start. Called the place where I had the remote start put in and he suggested two things. Use the original Hyundai keyfob and press the unlock button to stop the alarm. Or put the key in the ignition turned to the ON position BEFORE connecting the cable to the battery. Tried both, neither worked. Also tried just holding down the kill switch under the hood. But that didn't work either.
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I have a 2007 SF SE that seems to be having multiple electrical problems. In summary, the following are happening irregularly:
1) rear passenger door will not lock with the power lock button
2) front driver door will not lock with the power lock button
3) A/C turns on by itself at random times
4) Power gas latch release will not work
As I said before, these problems happen randomly and all the things listed above will work on occasions. I have not taken any steps to troubleshoot other than looked at the relays in the engine bay which seemed to be fine.
I know that some other posts mentioned the lock actuators for the lock problems. However, I think there might be an electrical problem since all the problems seem to be related. The car is not under warranty anymore.
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About 4 months ago, I had the battery replaced since the car was not starting easily and they said voltage was not good. They also shimmed the ignition coil at the same time. I thought it was a bit early for a new battery but ok.
Last Friday I started getting a flashing battery light on the console but no other issues. Thought I would bring it in Monday.
Sunday I was driving on the highway and all warning lights came on, flashing, console died then came back on with a bunch of warning lights and then the car died. I managed to get off the highway with about 10% power and park in a lot. Car would not start once I turned it off, click, click, click, click like no power etc but rest of power in car seemed fine. Started fine Monday morning and I drove it to the dealership.
The dealership says the code was P2502 (Charging System Voltage). They are going to replace the Battery Sensor first and then if that doesn't work replace the Alternator.
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Last night, while my wife was driving, the battery light on her instrument panel started flashing. This morning the battery light came back on when she started the car. As she was driving on the highway, the ABS light, the stability light, and couple other lights came on, plus her she was losing power to her wheels. She said it then felt like the car was towing a heavy object and that there was no power going to the wheels or any other part of the car. She was able to drive it a few miles to a parking lot, where it died.
When she tried to restart it, she heard a clicking sound, but had no power and the engine was not turning over. She could not remote lock the doors because the all power was gone.
The tow truck driver tested the car and said the battery is fine, but that the alternator was dead. She had it towed to the dealer, who also says it is the alternator that is the problem.
This all occurred after we had a previous, and resolved issue, to the instrument panel (including the light around the cigarette lighter) and the taillights going out intermittently. The dealer disconnected the electrical connection to the towing package and the lights have stayed on since.
Seems odd to have an alternator go on a two-year old vehicle (we bought it new in Jan 2011). Could it actually be the alternator or something else?
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I have a 2006 Prius with 115,000 miles that I've been having some problems with recently. Over the past 2 months the car wouldn't start 3 times. Once I jump it it runs fine for 2-3 weeks. This morning it happened again. Whole looking back on it every time seems it happen when the car doesn't run very long before I shut it off again.
Took it by dealer today and to ask them and setup a appointment. They think I have a battery going dead and he quoted it as $220 to replace. When I went to leave dealer the flashers blinked 2-3 times before it finally started. Done same thing when I got home. I also noticed when I locked the door that the red key light stayed on, instead of normal blinking. Went back out about 10 minutes later and it was blinking as normal.
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I have a 2009 Sante Fe, it has about 96000KM on it. It is a 3.3 engine AWD.
I find that when I accelerate the thing kind of feels rough. It is very subtle. Like you can almost miss it if I wasn't being so picky. But I can definitely feel something there. What this would be.
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With about 32K miles, I started getting a knock in the morning that would go away when warmed up. When I took the car in for service, I mentioned it and the service adviser said, it sounds like the timing chain tensioner leaking down, we have seen that.
Well it was not the tensioners, I was informed that, it was low oil pressure that did NOT trigger the oil light or any warnings, and my main bearings and a rod bearing were shot, it seems that the oil pump was not putting out as it should. Supposedly, it was only putting out 10 PSI. Oddly enough once the engine warmed up, there was no lifter/tappet noise that would indicate low oil pressure that I have experienced in the past with other engines.
The oil has been changed on time, the oil was clean, and the engine was not abused. Other than this the car ran fine. So the short block was replaced under warranty. This is a 3.5 V6.
This is quite disturbing, that some type of low oil pressure message or idiot light was not flashing on my dash. I have seen oil pumps from other manufacturers produce low oil pressure if the pressure relieve valve was stuck open.
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As appear on the attached video , sometimes the ESP off and ABS lights again at Engine start , and after the switch on checkup. Is that normal , or indicate upcoming issue?
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My car is an 08 AWD 3.3 I am noticing the engine will do a slight rev up, down, up, down when cold almost daily when I leave work in the afternoons.
I removed the airbox and intake tubing, cleaned the throttle body with TB cleaner and mass air sensor with electronics cleaner. I also used about half of a bottle of seafoam in one of the vacuum lines to the engine, and the other half in the fuel tank. Also ran some Chevron fuel system cleaner in the fuel tank. Nothing seemed to make a difference. It still persists.
It's noticeable the most in neutral, you can watch the tach rev up from 800 rpm to about 1100 and back down repeatedly. If the car is in drive and the brake is lightly applied, it will want to move when its revving up.
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How to replace the engine air filter in my 2010 Santa Fe? I can see where it is but I am having a hard time taking it out after I loosen the clips.
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Recently with sunny days, 25-30 degrees celsius, my late 06' CRDI Santa Fe starts to shut off while in the traffic jam. After engine restart car runs fine while idling but after i put in Drive (its a 5 speed AT) it shuts off again. After 2-3 restarts i may able to pull my car aside the road and let it cool. One other thing i have noticed is the temperature gauge. The needle is sitting slightly under middle mark and my torque app shows 114-115 degrees celsius ? It is pretty high dont you think ? Sometimes its over the middle bar and then my OBD torque app shows 120 degrees. I would exclude Crankshaft position sensor, because car restarts just fine, if it was CPS then it should not start for a while?
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My 2012 V6 Santa Fe turned itself off on the freeway today, only 3500 miles,
was in stop and go traffic, stopped and the car just turned off! No shaking or anything. Turned back on (so its not the battery, and YES it had plenty of gas), went about 100 ft and turned off again! Took into the dealer, they won't have an answer until Monday.
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I am currently on the highway in a remote area and have an oil leak at bottom of engine. There is a small hole where two housings come together, see photo.
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I have a 2009 with 45,000 miles. It has been idling goofy for a while. Last winter when it was cold it the engine when first started would jump around between 200 - 800rpm when idling. I went and had the fuel system cleaned. It wasn't noticeable when it was warm out and it did not jump around as dramatically on cold starts. Lately it started bouncing on every start from 400rpm-800rpm. It drives fine, just idles bouncy. The other night it lost power while driving. The engine was running but when the accelerator was pushed it would not speed up. It was limping along at 20mph and the engine light on the dash turned on. After sitting for little bit, the engine light was off and drove normally again. I have an apt. for the dealer to look at it next week, but of course I will not be able to recreate the event and there are no error codes.
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Three times in the past 2 weeks my Santa Fe wouldn't start. Never first thing in the morning but after the car is warmed up. I have stopped for gas/run into a store for 10 minutes. When I get back and turn the key I get electrical power (radio and fan etc.) but no cranking or engine turnover. It happened on a rainy day and twice when it was very hot and humid so maybe the electronic components are faulty.
After 10 or 15 minutes the car will start as if nothing is wrong and then I'll go for several days without any problem. I've tried both keys and I tried moving the second key around the steering wheel - in case the engine immobilizer is having trouble reading the key.
I have had the car since April 2, 2007 and I put only 3500 kms on it. It's a GLS 3.3L 7 passenger. I've read that it could be the crank position sensor.
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My 2007 Santa Fe 2.2 Diesel. The engine oil level is increasing, smells like diesel . Sometimes the Engine Check light comes on and goes out after a couple of days. I do a lot of short journeys and few motorway miles. Not sure if DPF problem or fuel leaking into sump.
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Like the title says, the engine turns over but it doesn't start. Sequence is something like this:
Turn key to on.
Wait until all the lights and gongs have stopped.
Turn to start for 3 to 4 seconds.
No start.
Turn everything off and repeat 1 to 3 times.
It starts.
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