Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Doors Will Not Lock With Power Button - AC Turns On By Itself At Random Times
Oct 21, 2011
I have a 2007 SF SE that seems to be having multiple electrical problems. In summary, the following are happening irregularly:
1) rear passenger door will not lock with the power lock button
2) front driver door will not lock with the power lock button
3) A/C turns on by itself at random times
4) Power gas latch release will not work
As I said before, these problems happen randomly and all the things listed above will work on occasions. I have not taken any steps to troubleshoot other than looked at the relays in the engine bay which seemed to be fine.
I know that some other posts mentioned the lock actuators for the lock problems. However, I think there might be an electrical problem since all the problems seem to be related. The car is not under warranty anymore.
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2010 ES350, 84,000 miles. I have seen many threads on door locking/unlocking issues but none quite like mine that I've been able to locate. The key fob stopped locking the doors a few weeks ago, neither will the lock button on the drivers door inside the car. No sounds, beeps, lights or mechanical attempts to lock the doors. There are no indicator lights or messages suggesting an issue.
I can go around and manually lock all the doors, hit the lock on the key fob, and the car will beep and light up as if the locks worked fine. I also manually locked each door separately and in all combinations, the only combination which will enable the beep as if the door locks work with the fob is if they are all locked. The fob will unlock the doors however, unlocking has not been an issue.
My first attempt to correct was to disconnect the battery for a few minutes, reconnect and they worked fine for a week or so. The next time, with all the same symptoms, disconnecting the battery did nothing, the fob, however did start working a day or two later. The third time it happened we took the car directly to the dealership who has had it for 5 days and have been unable to identify an issue (the fob started to work on day 3).
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I have a 2007 Hyundai Santa Fe and over the last 3 weeks I have been having a lot of trouble with my door locks. One thing is my automatic lock that happens when you hit 14mph, every time I hit 14mph my doors sound like they are locking 4 times, and every time I stop and take off again they sound like they are locking 4 more times. It is driving me crazy. Another issue I am having is my back passenger side door doesn't always unlock with the FOB or the button on the driver door, it has to manually be unlocked.
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I have a 2007 Santa Fe and recently both rear doors don't respond to the car remote and even to the driver-side control panel on the door. The only way now to lock and unlock the rear doors is to manually do it from the inside. Both front doors are fine. What could be the problem with the rear doors? Is it just a fuse? Or do I need to open the door panel and have a look inside? If I do need to open the door panel, looking for instructions on how to open it.
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With my 2003 PSD 6.0L, I would lock all doors with interior lock button and lock driver's door with the key. Can I do the same with my 2015 PSD 6.7 L or is there another easier/simpler way?
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I have this problem with both the key fobs provided with my 2007 UK spec. Santa Fe 2.2crdi: The fob works only intermittently to lock/unlock the doors. I have replaced the CR2032 batteries, and the red light on the fob works as well. Is there a sensor that needs cleaning/adjusting?
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I have a 2011 Santa Fe. I had to take it in for service in April because the shift lock was not acting correctly. Since I have gotten it back, it will not honk when I press the remote button twice. It did before the service was performed. The lights flash properly and the doors are locked, but I still want it to honk sometimes. Is there something that was turned off that I can turn back on?
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I have a 2001 santa fe. replaced the battery, alternator and I keep losing power while driving, radio goes on and off, a/c blows on and off, doors lock and unlock by themselves it holds a charge for about a week then breaks down again!
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My drivers door lock (unlocks) at random times and it doesn't seem to matter if the car is running or not, or if I'm even in the car or not. When it activates when I'm not in the car it sets the alarm off (which doesn't impress the neighbors at 3 in the morning). I can even hear it try to unlock the door when I'm driving with the door already unlocked. I would think it may be a short somewhere because my (fairly new) battery goes dead. Also my "traction" light is flashing (a more recent development). Is that something that might show up on Code reader?
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Wife just called with a weird one. She said the doors won't lock - using either the key fob or using the door lock/unlock button on the car interior. They will lock, and then immediately unlock. Won't stay locked.
Since the car isn't here, I'm shooting in the dark, but I'm having her check:
Make sure all doors are properly closed/latched. Push a button on the key fob to see if the LED lights up (I changed batteries a year ago).
Couple of searches showed up:
Potential issue with lights on when car is turned off (never had this issue before). Someone mentioned a switch below the dash to right of steering column.
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The driver's door button won't lock any doors from master button only, unlock from master button ok - will lock from exterior keypad, passenger side and tailgate button. (Don't know if connected but the illumination for keypad went out recently also.) Apparently went to completely inoperable over several days. 97 Explorer 5.0 AODE. Haynes manual shows 95 and later diagram with auxiliary relay box #4 with 3 relays, no keypad, but this one has a relay station in left rear Quarter (jack comp't) with two large relays (85, 86, 87, 87A, 30 contact numbers) and three small relays (1-6 numbered contacts?). Have swapped, I believe, all relays with no change in symptoms, pulled door panel checked continuity thru master switch, power available to switch, linkages appear free and reasonably clean. Looking for info on or a diagram for this electrical configuration, any troubleshooting tips or what the extra relays functions are? Also locations for anti theft module or other unknown components in this circuitry?
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Strange problem. 2006 4 door Camry. Only the drivers door unlocks when using remote or the unlock button on the door panel. The three other door have to unlocked manually. All 4 doors lock with the remote or the button on the drivers door normally. Not sure if this is a door switch problem or a remote problems or how to further isolate this?
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Is there a way to have the 2011 RX350 lock all of the doors/trunk automatically when I press the close buton on back of trunk?
Once I press trunk close button on back of trunk, it seems have to wait until it closes before I can lock he entire car and walk away?
If I press the lock button too early, I get the alarm.
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The rear driver side door on my Passat doesn't work right, it doesn't lock or unlock from the button on the front two doors....and the window only rolls down when that door is open and the car is running, how to fix?
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I've been having trouble diagnosing a loss of throttle at seemingly random times. Sometimes while driving, especially after driving for more than 20 minutes or so, I will experience a hesitation while on the gas pedal as if I have taken my foot off the gas. It makes it impossible to drive until I pull over and unplug my TPS and then I can drive fine in manual mode. Then the next day I can plug my TPS back in, drive around fine for a bit before the hesitation happens again and then I have to unplug the TPS again and drive in manual mode. It doesn't make sense to me why it takes a bit for this hesitation to begin and why unplugging the TPS and driving in manual mode seems to fix the problem.
I've recently replaced my crankshaft position sensor, idle air control valve, purge control valve solenoid and TPS. When I recently placed the TPS, the hesitation problem and another problem I've been having recently, a high idle in park, seemed to be fixed, but then the hesitation problem popped up again. When I unplug the TPS, the hesitation disappears and I can drive fine but the high idle in park problem is back! I'm suspecting some sort of wiring problem to the TPS. I just went on a 100 mile camping trip in manual mode no problem, but I can't be driving around forever with no TPS.
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All of a sudden, my 2008 prius, basic package without the smart entry system, stopped locking or opening the doors when i pressed the button.
At first i thought it must be a dead battery, so i replaced it with a new one and got the exact same behavior. i checked the old battery and it was still giving off 3 volts as was the new one when i checked that with a volt meter. when i press any of the buttons on the key, a small led light goes on and on the dashboard a picture of a key lights up briefly. the owner's manual does not show the key as a warning light.
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Recently, my Explorer will sound like a cessna first thing in the morning, and then at random times through out the day. Then, the other day, the temp spiked on my wife. She pulled over, and let it sit for a bit, started it back up, and haven't had a problem since with temp. We only hear the sound on acceleration, and I have noticed that my F250 does it sometimes also, but not to the same extent. Is this normal, or a sign that the fan clutch is bad?
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I have 62,500 on my 08 Santa Fe... never had any engine problems, but today, started the vehicle, drove 1/2 mile in town at 25 mph, turned a corner and the vehicle shuttered and lost driving power. At the same time, the check engine light came on and flashed continuously. I drove 1/2 block (around two corners in town) with the on/off studder and loss of power. I pumped the accelerator just to keep it from killing. As I stopped at the next corner and idled the vehicle regained power. I pulled over and called the dealership service department and they recommended I drive it home (blocks away) and turn the engine off, then try to restart it and if it started drive it 30 miles to dealership.
Did that, engine light came on steady and vehicle had full power. Long and short... the code was P0300 Random CYL Miss Fire Fault (random cylinder miss fire). After scanning the vehicle, test driving it and inspecting it as they do, they could not find a source of the problem or duplicate it. They cleared the code and promised that if it happened again they would credit me the $90 diagnostic fee I paid today for them to find nothing and apply it to a problem they couldn't find. They were willing to try and warranty it even though it is 2,500 over warranty if it had needed parts. Has this cylinder misfire happened to any of you? I've never had a problem like this really go away, so I'm expecting it will show up again. Also, they want to replace the timing belt (at 60K) as a preventative measure. What do you think? Can I wait till 80K?
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My Chevy Venture 1998 power lock doors will unlock but won't lock. Checked fuse and is ok.
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I have a 2011 F350 Lariat diesel crew cab. All of a sudden my remote start will not work, sometimes i can do it 5 times and it will finally but most of the time I just hear a lot of clicking noises in the engine like relays or something. Also when I exit my vehicle, if I use either the key fob or the outside keypad on the door to lock the vehicle, the stereo system turns on and stays on. When I open the door it shuts off. The only other thing that might be related is the other day when I put my windshield wipers on, the worked in super super slow-motion, stopped and then started again but at like 1/4 of the normal speed.
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Six year old car, 115k on the clock. Starting last week, I've been unable to unlock the doors on the es. Whether it's via the key fob or the sensors on the door handles. I've noticed the behaviour in the morning when it's cold, so I'm assuming it's mechanical. When the weather warms up, everything seems to work again. I've done some research here and while nothing turned up for our es's, I think it might be the actuators for the locks based on responses I've seen from the is and gs owners.
I guess the weird part for me is that all locks but the driver door lock seem to have failed - all at the same time. I can lock, but not unlock. Trying to figure if there's singe common point of failure which would cause three failures simultaneously. Perhaps it's just coincidence? I'm fully prepared to remove the panels and tackle this project.
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