Toyota :: Drivers Door Lock (unlocks) At Random Times - Traction Light Is Flashing
Dec 27, 2015
My drivers door lock (unlocks) at random times and it doesn't seem to matter if the car is running or not, or if I'm even in the car or not. When it activates when I'm not in the car it sets the alarm off (which doesn't impress the neighbors at 3 in the morning). I can even hear it try to unlock the door when I'm driving with the door already unlocked. I would think it may be a short somewhere because my (fairly new) battery goes dead. Also my "traction" light is flashing (a more recent development). Is that something that might show up on Code reader?
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2003 F150 Super Crew 5.4
When I turn off the ignition, the drivers door lock unlocks or pushes the arm through the door for up to 30-60 seconds over and over again. I would say like 10 times and it is annoying as hell.
Is the only part in the door that controls this the actuator or is there something else that can be doing this?
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My co-worker has an 06 F250 SC 4x4 and is getting a P0713 code. 2006 Ford F250 6.0L Diesel ... Tow/haul light comes on flashing at random times. Truck is reading a P0713 code which is the TFT Sensor Failure/Replacement
Ford dealership is telling me that I also have to pull the valve body and install the new upgraded wiring harness (3-3.5 hours labor) but a thread on this forum stated I just needed to replace the sensor in the tranny pan and reconnect the wire harness. Do I need to upgrade the wiring harness?
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I just purchased an '02 Camry. All doors lock with remote and interior door lock buttons. Only driver door unlocks with remote and door lock buttons. I have seen other posts with this issue, but not a clear solution.
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All of my door locks work fine with the key fob or from the master driver side controls. One door lock, the front passenger, will unlock with the rocker switch on that door but will not lock with that switch.
I replaced the rocker switch on that door and I still have the same problem. To me this seems to indicate a problem with the lock wire from the rocker switch to the door actuator since otherwise the actuator works. I believe that is a black/pink wire.
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I have a Camry 2011 LE (US) and it is giving me this problem for last few weeks. The doors lock fine with the key fob and the lock button on the doors however only driver side door unlocks when i try to unlock it.
The car does not has any starting problem and it still does not work when the car is started and moving. I have even tried a friend's battery to double check if its a battery issue but it does not seems like its that problem since my car starts just fine.
I have been searching on the internet for the problem and read somewhere it could be a Relay problem and i was able to find two relays in the fuse box. But I just don't know if its legit to try replacing the Relay and if yes which relay control doors.
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My last issue is resolved and the next day my door handle broke, so I purchased a new replacement put it in, and now my drivers door power lock wont work. I can see it twitching but not going fully either way. the passenger side works fine however. it still works if I di it manually but I have keyless so that's a annoying hassle!!!
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My 2004 V50, all the doors and boot lock except for the rear drivers side passenger door.
I have tried pushing the door knob down and this wont budge either, took the door card off and can hear a clicking when you press the key fob but thats it lock does not move?
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I have a 2007 SF SE that seems to be having multiple electrical problems. In summary, the following are happening irregularly:
1) rear passenger door will not lock with the power lock button
2) front driver door will not lock with the power lock button
3) A/C turns on by itself at random times
4) Power gas latch release will not work
As I said before, these problems happen randomly and all the things listed above will work on occasions. I have not taken any steps to troubleshoot other than looked at the relays in the engine bay which seemed to be fine.
I know that some other posts mentioned the lock actuators for the lock problems. However, I think there might be an electrical problem since all the problems seem to be related. The car is not under warranty anymore.
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I had been having battery issues with my 97 ford f150 4.6 liter for the longest time, thought i had a short under dash, i pulled entire dash out, disconnecting bat first of course, and inspected all wiring harness connections and fixing my issues and putting it all back together. now with new bat and all put back together i am now getting the airbag light flashing 5 times then 2 times (error code 52) i know it has some thing to do with power failure or backup battery, but now with the new battery in i cant seem to get it to reset. How to do this?
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So today i was pulling into traffic from a driveway. As i merged in I noticed my Traction Control light flashing for like 3 seconds then it went off.
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I have a 2002 Toyota Corolla. The issue I have been having is that the headlamps and tail lamps are flashing randomly. They flash for about 10 seconds then stop for about 30 seconds then flash again. There is also a clicking sound(similar to the one made when the hazards are on) heard from the inside. I know it is not the hazards because when I turn the hazards on their is another, separate clicking noise made and the flashing lights are brighter. I have attempted to reset the computer, pull out and put back in all fuses to no avail.
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Ever since I installed my L.e.d. lights in my doors the automatic door lock once moving keep locking like 3 times. I don't know why this would happen I didn't touch anything I shouldn't have. Why this would be happening.
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So my brake light was flashing and my abs light and traction light came on...i got codes for a faulty abs module and G85 steering angle sensor. I replaced the module and I cleared the codes and they cleared except the steering angle sensor and now the traction light is stuck on? Do i have to zero point calibrate with a vagcom?
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I slammed on my brakes the other day because a car pulled out in front of me. When i let off the brakes i noticed the car did not move for a good 1-2 seconds and a traction control light was flashing. I didn't think much of it until i was sitting at a light and decided to see what happens if i press my brake pedals in hard again... the traction light turns on again and the car doesn't move when brakes are disengaged for a few seconds. Is this normal? It feels like my hill assist on the BMW. Why the traction light turns on? My car is a 2010 Prius III with 5k miles.
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So I was exiting the freeway the other day. It was a long gradual sweeping left hand turn. And I was doing about 80 mph and the traction control light started flashing and the car started to hesitate a bit. What this could be. Btw I have a 2005 gli intake,exhaust,chipped. Not lowered stock bbs rc's...
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After starting my 09 Camry, the Maintenance light flashes a good 15 times before it turns off. I just started noticing this. I understand all the lights on the dash will flash upon starting the car, a few times, but this is longer than it has done it in the past.
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Sometimes my battery light will come on. It started happening about a few weeks ago. At the time i was on the parkway so i couldn't pull over and it was flashing a few times then stopped. It started doing it more often, now it did it around town so i would slow down and i could hear the belt squealing. It just happened again and this time my car sorta lost power but only for a second. Now my question is, how would i check if its
a) alternator,
b) the belt or
c) the tensioner?
Or, I won't know til i start messing with it?
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So I just bout an 03 explorer with 85k miles on it last month. the 4wd high light keeps flashing 10 times. i read the thread below and found this...
Diagnostic Flash Code Information
NOTE: The following flash codes 1 through 16 are
On-Board Diagnostic
(OBD) codes generated by the control module. If a system fault is detected, the control module will "flash out" the corresponding fault code on the electronic four-wheel drive Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) on the instrument panel. Also, notice that all the codes that can be generated pertain only to the speed sensors, the clutch coil and clutch with the exception of the first flash code.
The electronic four-wheel drive system also includes the brake switch input, Park/Neutral Position (PNP) switch input, one power and two ground lines, along with the E-4WD MIL. The following pinpoint tests include testing on every electronic four-wheel drive circuit and not just those covered by the flash codes.
DIAGNOSTIC FLASH CODE CHART
Flash CodeDescriptionAction to Take
Inoperative or Erratic System Errors.Complete Tests AA through DD.
1Microprocessor RAM (Random Access Memory) access error.Replace Control Module.
2Clutch connector or clutch coil has discontinuity.GO to Step FF1.
3Front output speed sensor connector or internal circuitry of sensor has discontinuity.Go to Step EE1.
4Rear output speed sensor connector or internal circuitry of sensor has discontinuity.Go to Step EE1.
5Both front and rear speed sensor connectors and/or internal circuitry of sensors have discontinuity.Go to Step EE1.
6Clutch and front sensor connectors and/or clutch coil and/or internal circuitry of sensor have discontinuity.First see Step FF1, then Step EE1.
7Clutch and rear sensor connectors and/or clutch coil and/or internal circuitry of sensor have discontinuity.First see Step FF1, then Step EE1.
8Clutch and both sensor connectors and/or clutch coil and/or internal circuitry of sensors have discontinuity.First see Step FF1, then Step EE1.
9Mechanical problem that allows clutch plates to slip during clutch engagement (or faulty sensor output signal).First see Step FF1, then Step EE1.
10Both Code 9 and Code 2.See action for Code 9.
11Both Code 9 and Code 3.See action for Code 9.
12Both Code 9 and Code 4.See action for Code 9.
13Both Code 9 and Code 5.See action for Code 9.
14Both Code 9 and Code 6.See action for Code 9.
15Both Code 9 and Code 7.See action for Code 9.
16Both Code 9 and Code 8.See action for Code 9.
Regeneration (Recovery) of Flash Codes
If the ignition is turned OFF and the code is lost, the ignition will have to be turned ON again to regenerate codes 1 through 8, if the condition or conditions still exist. To regenerate codes 9 through 16, the vehicle must be driven again.
How accurate is this information? also where can i find a replacement clutch connector? New to fords so I am not sure where to get parts.
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My 2004 explorer honks 3 times on lock and 4 times on unlock when you just press the remote once.
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Trying methods found elsewhere on this site not working anymore. No matter how much wd-40 and door slamming I do, I am getting the 4 short honks on lock and 2 on unlock. No door ajar light and interior lights go off as normal so it doesn't seem to be door open sensor.
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