Toyota - Electrical-wiring :: 2002 - Random Flashing Headlights
Jul 31, 2015
I have a 2002 Toyota Corolla. The issue I have been having is that the headlamps and tail lamps are flashing randomly. They flash for about 10 seconds then stop for about 30 seconds then flash again. There is also a clicking sound(similar to the one made when the hazards are on) heard from the inside. I know it is not the hazards because when I turn the hazards on their is another, separate clicking noise made and the flashing lights are brighter. I have attempted to reset the computer, pull out and put back in all fuses to no avail.
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On my 2002 Ford Escape my high lights do not illuminate. I changed the light but it does not light up.
On the dashboard, the little blue light does not turn either to indicate that the switch is high.
Is this a relay, where it is placed? Otherwise what would be the problem?
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I *think* I'm having trouble with the alternator on my 2002 Navigator with the 5.4L DOHC engine.
A year ago in Feb 2014 the alternator quit charging. I thought the headlights were a little dim, but when the radio turned itself off and then the heater fan did the same, I noticed that the alt light was on. Then the engine shut down about 1.5 miles from home.
I'd heard of war stories about rebuilt alternators so I sprang for a brandy new one. I also got a voltmeter that fits in the cigarette lighter so I can monitor the system voltage. All seemed good and the new alternator put out 14.2 to 14.5 volts. Except that the battery never seems to be fully charged. If I check the battery voltage with the engine off it typically reads 11.9 to 12.2 volts. I had Interstate Batteries check the battery. They thought it was okay, but offered to put a new battery in to keep me happy.
Six months and 8,000 miles later I'm up in Ontario back country (on vacation - no tools in the truck) and I notice the engine idles at 900 RPM instead of the usual 650 +/- RPM. Oh-oh, I also notice the volt meter is reading 11.9 volts and drops a tenth about every 10 miles.
Found a shop that was open and they installed a rebuilt alternator and it was putting out 14.2 to 14.5 volts. All was good (except for my wallet!).
Now, here we are six months and 5,000 miles later and the rebuilt alternator is struggling to put out 12.5 volts this afternoon. At a steady 50 MPH with the cruise Control on, the radio, and the heater fan on low, the voltage is bouncing between 12.2 volts and 12.7 volts.
Now to my questions:
1. Shouldn't an alternator put out 14.2 to 14.5 volts all the time? Not just when the alternator is new?
And
2. Is there anything on my truck that could be killing these alternators? Or am I just unlucky in the alternator lottery?
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Sometimes the headlights won't come on unless you move the steering wheel up & down.
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Any COMPLETE headlight switch wiring diagram? Everything I find online only shows 2-3 wires in each sub connector, nothing with all wires and colors, and what they do. and of course the factory service manuals no longer work on my new computer. the switch and associated wires went up in smoke 2 hours ago, and this truck is my only means of transportation rite now. what i need is headlight wiring with colors so i can temporary hook up a toggle switch to have lights until the new switch and connectors come in next week. I went to pull the switch and connectors out of the parts truck, but of course that does not have fog lights so it uses different switch and connections.
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I've been wondering about this issue for about a year now. I haven't torn out the stereo to see if the wiring is jacked up (came with the truck). When I have the truck running and the radio is on I pull the light switch and the radio turns off, then turns back on...... The radio also buzzes when the truck is running, kind of like it has a bad ground but I've checked the grounds and powers and all is good.
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Here's the breakdown. I have a '95 Ford F150 that I bought the previous year and it has been nothing but a problem. The most recent problem is the attempt to turn on the headlights. I will pull the plunger to turn on the headlights but I will only get the parking lights and when attempting to turn on the high beams I still get nothing. The only way that I get any sort of lighting is if I pull on the turning stick (almost like doing a manual override on a tripped wall plugin). Now here's the kicker. I still have parking lights, brake, tail, cab, and dash lights. Winter in quickly approaching and the nights are already getting dark, pretty soon the days will be just as dark.
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Ok, I admit this isn't on a Ford, it's my old man's 1970 AMX, but it's an odd electrical problem we can't figure out. The front right blinker works fine when the headlights are OFF but when the headlights are on it doesn't blink. The other three work as they should. He has tried new bulbs, ohmed and voltage tested the sockets. Ohm reading was around 1-2ohms and voltage was 9v.
The voltage also fluctuated when the blinker was on but when you put a bulb in it didn't blink. He has noted the bulb on the passenger side is brighter than the other side. He's trying to get it ready to take to Pigeon Forge next weekend for a car show and I 4.5 hours away. What could be going on??? Could a bad headlight switch cause this? Bad socket?
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We have a broke (aren't they all?) college kid living with our family who's parents have basically signed off on him. He has this car and so far it has been reliable. He was driving on the freeway last week and he said it began to smoke, so he hot to the side and turned it off. He then had it towed to a neighboring street off the freeway and came for my advice. Unfortunately he knows little about cars in general, so he couldn't tell me if the smoke was steam or how it smelled or anything. I told him I should go back with him and check the oil before he attempted to restart it, I am guilty of blowing up my own transmission in college bc I thought my dad was checking the oil and he thought I was checking the oil...well, no one was...anyway, I got him to call his insurance and we found out he had coverage, so instead he got it towed here. I checked the oil after it got here, there was little oil in it, but, it would also not start. It would not even attempt to turn over. Putting it into accessories did nothing.
My husband then got involved and cleaned off the battery connections and then we attempted to jump it. After about an hour, we gave up, and took the battery in, and they said it was the original battery so we replaced it out of our pocket. Put that in the car and now we only get a dash light of a car with a key that is red and flashes. No lights, no radio, no anything else but an annoying red flashing light. Turns out he has an intelikey system. The dealership over the phone said they have to reprogram the key fob and car so they need both to do so. That's an initial charge of $175 and another call to the insurance for towing...which I'll have to pay. But, if I do that and that doesn't cure all that ails it and it doesn't start...then what? Is there anything else we can try first or does that intelikey hold the access to everything on the car? My husband has some mechanical skills but not a lot of time to search and troubleshoot and hasn't worked on a nissan before, his job is very demanding right now, but given direction can do a lot himself.
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The problem is that my headlights on my 1996 Cherokee Jeep XJ switch off unexpectedly. I can get them to come back on for extended periods by fiddling with the control knob in certain ways. This is the kind where you pull out of the knob to turn the lights on, and can rotate the knob to brighten or dim the dash.
If I pull a bit harder on the knob, the lights come on; if I twist this way just so, then off they go; that sort of thing. The fuses are fine and the contacts in the fuse box are clean. High beams work great no matter what (these are controlled from the steering column). I think the problem is at the control knob.
Now, how can I keep my headlights on when I turn them on every time without having to fight the gremlins? I think my next move is to remove the bezels and so on as best I can and get in there with some proper contact cleaner to see it's just built up gunk causing havoc. If that fails, or if that's a bad idea, what's next?
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The truck has a 300 straight 6 and runs pretty good until you turn the headlights on or anything that uses current for that matter ie. Radio , Fan ect. But is worst with lights. Just got the truck last week and can't seem to figure this one out.
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After replacing my battery cables (Pos and Ground),My Truck stalls every time I turn on the headlights. The truck stays running with the parking lights on or if no lights on at all. Could I have mixed up the 2 positive accessory wires?
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Series 7 , 82 model, light switch drama. I think they worked fine before I had removed the dash but it has a multi plug that I never interfered with but the truck had been in water and the contacts on it were rusty and I know the unit has been submerged.
Anyway, the unit clicks and sort of buzzes and the headlights and side lights flicker and the rear LED lights barely flicker, need to watch closely. I have cleaned and used contact fluid all connections under the truck as I washed it the other day too.
Brake lights work perfectly, indicators too, just associated lights from this pull switch. The unit gets hot, not burning hot but hot enough not to hold for too long. So, thoughts ?
Need new unit ?
Touched something ?
Water ingress finally making unit fail ?
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'03 E250, standard van with RKE if that's pertinent.............
Looking to replace the on-board 4-way flashing system with Whelen strobes and looking to have the column mounted button be the on/off switch for that power supply. I have a schematic from a '97 E250 (almost identical FWIW) which I can post the pin out, test procedure and EVTM version of the hazard portion of that Multi Function Switch if that's useful.
I know it would be far, far less complicated to control the Whelen via a separate switch but this above reversible mod would be somewhat cool IMHO.
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I wired up a new set of halo projector headlights. I put in load resistors for the led marker/blinker bulbs I purchased. I tested the resistors and after a few minutes I hooked up the halos for the headlights into the running lights. Noticed the resistors were pretty hot, burned my hand. I then accidentally touched the hot marker wire to the ground. That popped the fuse under the hood. But now that same side blinker. Same wires I grounded that also got hot. Blinker stays on, light on dash too. Checked blinker relay it's fine.
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88 f250 5.0 when my headlights are on my driver side blinker doesn't work at all but with lights off it does also with the blinker on the dash blinks with the blinker also I'm lost. Also when I turn my key on the windshield wipers wanna turn on
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I've been trying to trace down a issue with the airbag warning light flashing. The seatbelt light is flashing also. The airbag code is 53. If i search it i get the front crash sensor..I replaced it with a new sensor and pigtail. Other than that the search leads me to believe it could be anything.
I've checked and clean every connection that i could find. I haven't removed the center console yet to check the module. I did buy the truck last fall as a winter/work truck. The issue started a couple of months after i started driving it. Not sure if the module would just go bad.
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So I recently bought a 1997 7.3l F250. It is in fairly good condition, but it has some problems with the lights working. The turn signals and hazards all work, as do the tail lights and headlights. However, when I hit the high beam switch, the headlights cut off entirely. Also, the brake lights do not work at all. Ive checked the bulbs and since they all work Im not sure what the issue is.
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Wondering if there is a way to program the headlights and running lights so they DO NOT come on when I open the doors?? And to turn OFF when the switch is off??
2014 super duty lariat
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2003 SCrew, 5.4, auto, 4x4.... Yesterday my left turn signal started flashing fast; checked and the front was not flashing. Picked up a new bulb, changed it, didn't fix anything.
I've tried:
-tilt wheel up/down in all settings-no change
-checked the wiring at the top of the column; still good and solid.
-swapped the bulbs left to right and vice versa-no change.
-swapped the sockets left to right and vice versa-no change.
Other info:
-the left front is the only one not flashing with hazards on.
-all original equipment, except I removed the stock side mirrors (w/signal) and installed manual trailer towing mirrors, but that was 2 or 3 years ago.
-the dash indicator light for left turn (arrow) does not come on at all.
-last trailer tow was over a month ago and all was good.
I ran out of daylight last night and at work now so I would like know which Fuse, Flasher, Relay, etc., I should check/replace and where to find them on the truck; under the hood (1st or 2nd stack of the fuse blocks); under the dash above the pedals; steering column???
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While driving I turned on my headlights and my car became possessed. My warning lights started to flicker on and off, my car was dinging out of control. The speedometer, gas, and RPM gauge went to zero. My brights light would not come on. My dinging for the lights being left on, or the key being left in the ignition, after the car is parked, and the door is open, will not go on either. I turned my lights off and all was well. Turned them on again and the same thing happened.
Now, the following day, it is doing this periodically every couple of minutes while I'm driving, whether the lights are on or not. My radio and head lights work fine. I checked all my fuses and they all seem to be AOK. I disconnected my car battery and reconnected it to see if it would reset and it still did the same thing. One other strange occurrence. The last month or so while I've been driving my battery light came on for a few minutes. I had the battery checked and it is not bad. Then last week my gas-cap warning started to randomly appear. I changed my gas cap, and guess what.....it still came on, at random.
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