Ford Wiring/Electrical :: 2001 F250 Blinker Stuck On / Not Flashing
Jan 19, 2015
I wired up a new set of halo projector headlights. I put in load resistors for the led marker/blinker bulbs I purchased. I tested the resistors and after a few minutes I hooked up the halos for the headlights into the running lights. Noticed the resistors were pretty hot, burned my hand. I then accidentally touched the hot marker wire to the ground. That popped the fuse under the hood. But now that same side blinker. Same wires I grounded that also got hot. Blinker stays on, light on dash too. Checked blinker relay it's fine.
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Moon roof is stuck open can hear motor trying to run on open side od switch but nothing on close...
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Ok, I admit this isn't on a Ford, it's my old man's 1970 AMX, but it's an odd electrical problem we can't figure out. The front right blinker works fine when the headlights are OFF but when the headlights are on it doesn't blink. The other three work as they should. He has tried new bulbs, ohmed and voltage tested the sockets. Ohm reading was around 1-2ohms and voltage was 9v.
The voltage also fluctuated when the blinker was on but when you put a bulb in it didn't blink. He has noted the bulb on the passenger side is brighter than the other side. He's trying to get it ready to take to Pigeon Forge next weekend for a car show and I 4.5 hours away. What could be going on??? Could a bad headlight switch cause this? Bad socket?
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88 f250 5.0 when my headlights are on my driver side blinker doesn't work at all but with lights off it does also with the blinker on the dash blinks with the blinker also I'm lost. Also when I turn my key on the windshield wipers wanna turn on
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I have a 2001 F250 with 7.3. We swapped the auto for a zf6 manual. We left the auto's shift position sensor tied to the frame and left in neutral. I did install a pcm from a manual transmission pickup. Also have the clutch position switch hooked up. I have an Edge Evolution CTS2 reprogrammer, and on the display the gear indication always shows P. I suspect that is why my cruise doesn't work. For interests sake, I tried manually adjusting the shift position sensor through all gears, and the reverse lights come on when in reverse but the Edge's display always shows P. My question is with a manual transmission, how does the pcm know that it is in gear? The only sensor that I am aware of is the reverse sensor on the zf6.
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I have a 97 F250 HD. Wiring the rear tail lights. When we bought it the had cut off the wires going to both sides of the rear lighting assemblys and I was wondering what wire went to what i have the left turn signal working just can't seem to get the brake/back up light to work on that side and i can't figure out how to get the right side going either.
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I am trying to add courtesy lights to the existing reflectors in the front doors of my supercab. I can't find a wiring diagram that shows where to connect the light sockets. 1999 F250 SD...
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I just bought a hard to start 1990 F250. Per the board, just replaced all 8 glow plugs with Motorcraft. Still wouldn't start (it turns over but will only start if you use either). I attempted to install a new BWD brand (Borg Warner I believe) glow plug connector relay today...I removed the old no problem, but am unsure what wires to plug where....the only connection that I'm sure about is the blue wire that works the WTS feature...it plugs in easily but I don't know if there are other connections that need to be made or not? All the wires run from the posts and into the bottom of the unit.
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Let me start by saying electrical is something I really have no knowledge of....(never used any kind of an elec meter and don't have one) simple, Pos-grd and fuse, NP. I really don't want to fry something in these expensive new seats w/my normal trial and mostly ERROR!
The 08 (drivers) seat has 4 wires in the input clip.
GRN-RED (heavy gauge)
BLK-PURP (heavy gauge
BLU-RED
BLK-WHT
and my 01 whip out of the floor has a 3 wire setup.
GRN (heavy gauge)
BLK (heavy gauge)
BRN-BLU
I can wire PS side seat from fuse box and ground it NP. It only has a 2 wire set-up in the new seat.
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'03 E250, standard van with RKE if that's pertinent.............
Looking to replace the on-board 4-way flashing system with Whelen strobes and looking to have the column mounted button be the on/off switch for that power supply. I have a schematic from a '97 E250 (almost identical FWIW) which I can post the pin out, test procedure and EVTM version of the hazard portion of that Multi Function Switch if that's useful.
I know it would be far, far less complicated to control the Whelen via a separate switch but this above reversible mod would be somewhat cool IMHO.
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Pulled up to customers home and took key out and engine kept running. Disconnected battery, engine and aux turned off. Then Connected battery and power came on as if the key was in. Then put key in and turned with no change in power or engine trying to turn. Disc battery, put key in first then connected battery and truck started. Last stop took key out as well as disc batt and engine stayed on this time. repeated steps above several times to get back. Looking for narrowing the problem,possible ignition key cylinder, actuator or possible bad circuit.
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I've been trying to trace down a issue with the airbag warning light flashing. The seatbelt light is flashing also. The airbag code is 53. If i search it i get the front crash sensor..I replaced it with a new sensor and pigtail. Other than that the search leads me to believe it could be anything.
I've checked and clean every connection that i could find. I haven't removed the center console yet to check the module. I did buy the truck last fall as a winter/work truck. The issue started a couple of months after i started driving it. Not sure if the module would just go bad.
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2003 SCrew, 5.4, auto, 4x4.... Yesterday my left turn signal started flashing fast; checked and the front was not flashing. Picked up a new bulb, changed it, didn't fix anything.
I've tried:
-tilt wheel up/down in all settings-no change
-checked the wiring at the top of the column; still good and solid.
-swapped the bulbs left to right and vice versa-no change.
-swapped the sockets left to right and vice versa-no change.
Other info:
-the left front is the only one not flashing with hazards on.
-all original equipment, except I removed the stock side mirrors (w/signal) and installed manual trailer towing mirrors, but that was 2 or 3 years ago.
-the dash indicator light for left turn (arrow) does not come on at all.
-last trailer tow was over a month ago and all was good.
I ran out of daylight last night and at work now so I would like know which Fuse, Flasher, Relay, etc., I should check/replace and where to find them on the truck; under the hood (1st or 2nd stack of the fuse blocks); under the dash above the pedals; steering column???
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I have a 2001 Passat and the blinker is stuck on. It doesn't flash it just stays on when the car is on or off. This has been running down the battery. Also it seems the radio is staying on. I'm not sure if there is something in the car that tells these things to turn off when the car is off and this is broken.
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I have a friend of mine that has a 1983 and he had me change the water pump in it because it started leaking and it has been sitting for 7 Months now. I changed that but I can't get this bugger to start. I used to be a mechanic in a past life so I know what I'm doing most of the time so let me explain what has transpired here.
I attached my remote starter, turned on the key and cranked over the engine after shooting a little bit of starting fluid in the carb and she cranks over but won't start. I then pulled the #1 spark plug out and then did the same thing to check for spark and nada. I put my light tester on the coil and there was power. I have run into this kind of problem years ago with other vehicles so I thought I would just go ahead and replace the Coil and also the Control Module. After replacing these parts, still no spark. Since the distributor is there only to distribute the spark (meaning no electrical connections to it) I'm assuming that the Pick Up part that is down by the Crank shaft might be bad.
How to test either the Control Module or the pick up. I'm trying to diagnose this problem without needing to remove the module and taking them to the parts house for testing. (long drive). These wires should have 12 volts when the key is off and these wires should have 12 volts when the key is on.... and so on.
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We have a broke (aren't they all?) college kid living with our family who's parents have basically signed off on him. He has this car and so far it has been reliable. He was driving on the freeway last week and he said it began to smoke, so he hot to the side and turned it off. He then had it towed to a neighboring street off the freeway and came for my advice. Unfortunately he knows little about cars in general, so he couldn't tell me if the smoke was steam or how it smelled or anything. I told him I should go back with him and check the oil before he attempted to restart it, I am guilty of blowing up my own transmission in college bc I thought my dad was checking the oil and he thought I was checking the oil...well, no one was...anyway, I got him to call his insurance and we found out he had coverage, so instead he got it towed here. I checked the oil after it got here, there was little oil in it, but, it would also not start. It would not even attempt to turn over. Putting it into accessories did nothing.
My husband then got involved and cleaned off the battery connections and then we attempted to jump it. After about an hour, we gave up, and took the battery in, and they said it was the original battery so we replaced it out of our pocket. Put that in the car and now we only get a dash light of a car with a key that is red and flashes. No lights, no radio, no anything else but an annoying red flashing light. Turns out he has an intelikey system. The dealership over the phone said they have to reprogram the key fob and car so they need both to do so. That's an initial charge of $175 and another call to the insurance for towing...which I'll have to pay. But, if I do that and that doesn't cure all that ails it and it doesn't start...then what? Is there anything else we can try first or does that intelikey hold the access to everything on the car? My husband has some mechanical skills but not a lot of time to search and troubleshoot and hasn't worked on a nissan before, his job is very demanding right now, but given direction can do a lot himself.
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I have a 2002 Toyota Corolla. The issue I have been having is that the headlamps and tail lamps are flashing randomly. They flash for about 10 seconds then stop for about 30 seconds then flash again. There is also a clicking sound(similar to the one made when the hazards are on) heard from the inside. I know it is not the hazards because when I turn the hazards on their is another, separate clicking noise made and the flashing lights are brighter. I have attempted to reset the computer, pull out and put back in all fuses to no avail.
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My 96 F-350 Crew Cab driver rear door lock is stuck in the locked position. I don't have a cause but do now notice that the pass door lock will not operate with the lock/unlock switch. The rear solenoids seem dead. Front door locks are working.
I tried to put a 10-32 coupling nut on the lock riser and pull. The down position is now 1/8-1/4" higher than normal. This thing is really stuck and is really bad.
So before I start pulling the rear seat and trying to remove the door panel from a closed door; how I might unlock this door? It would be a lot easier to get the panel off if it is open.
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I recently bought a 92 F250 and love it but the blinkers will not work. I have replaced both flashers and the multifunction switch. (the wipers had issues too that were fixed by the switch...) Now what? Im at a loss..
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My work truck is an 03 F250 5.3L. My flashers recently stopped working. I turn them on, and they will work anywhere from 5 seconds to a few minutes, then either blink rapidly and shut off, stay solid for a few seconds and shut off, or just shut off. I push the switch off and on again, and the cycle repeats. All my other lights and turn signals work fine with no issues.
This wouldn't be a huge issue, but where I work I need the flashers a lot. The truck has a bar light and siren/pa system wired into it, but not to the lights or anywhere near that. I can't say exactly how it's wired because I didn't install it, but I followed the wires and they don't go under the steering wheel where I would assume the relay and wires for flashers would be.
What sounds like is wrong? I wouldn't think it would be the relay because then I would think that I would be having problems with more than just the flashers. So I'm not sure if there would just be a ground issue or if it's the actual switch that turns on the hazards. Also, there are no lights that are burnt out.
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I have a 1979 f-250 4x4 with a 351m. The problem I am having is my starter keeps running after the truck starts and also after I shut off the key. I didn't get the battery unhooked in time today and it completely melted the lug off on the solenoid, but the other wires were barley warm. What could be causing this problem? The battery is new, the cables are new and the Sol. was new. Maybe the switch or the starter?
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